Just drove about 12km at 69-70km/h. When I got home I smelled something like burning break pads... It was coming from the passenger side. I reached behind the wheel and it was crazy hot, even the rubber of the tire. I hit it with the hose and it was sizzling and steaming... I'll pull the wheel tomorrow and take a peak, but just wondering if anyone has seen this before. Are the breaks rubbing?? I usually don't drive that far or fast, so could that (the speed) be part of it, I assume not since it was only the passenger side.
the speed and distance is nothing unusual, either wheel bearing or stuck brake caliper There are brake caliper repair kits. Honda Acty Caliper Repair Kit HA3, HA4, HH3, HH4 SKU: AY600-KE-001 https://yokohamamotors.net/product77.html Monotaro has them also, AY600-KE-001 some info here on caliper release bolt https://robrobinette.com/Honda_ACTY.htm seized calipers https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/1999-honda-acty-front-brakes.20137/ youtube brake caliper rebuild on a Civic as info
I agree, caliper is hanging up. Pretty common, when they heat up like that! Spot on shogun, nice job!
I’d recommend putting new wheel studs in while you have it apart. The studs are hardened, and when you over heat them they can get soft and them fail. You don’t want the front wheel deciding to come off while you are driving.
To me, Brakes are a very important component of any thing that moves! I'm still old school and would completely go through every item on that wheel, repairing, and or replacing everything needed! Then, I would check the other side! I just like knowing what I'm driving!
Caliper rebuild is a good bet, but check the hose that goes from the hard line to the caliper. If the fittings or anchor point gets rusty they can act as a check valve by constricting the rubber hose.
yes, last time I went to the Japanese Shaken = roadworthy test, the tester told me for the next test in 2 years I should replace those hoses that go from the hard line to the caliper. Did that immy after I got his info, there I take no risk, they are also not that expensive.Bad brake hoses can bury you.
Thanks for all the info and tips. I pulled the tire, does seem to be the calipers. I'll do a rebuild and, change out the hoses this winter, or little by little in the evenings; time is slightly on my side. Luckily this thing is my backup for harvest and planting, other than that it only gets about 5, maybe 10 Km/week.
To make sure it’s the caliper and not just the hose is if it’s dragging bad , just crack the bleeder and if it loosens up and turns freely it could be just a Rubber line , made this mistake on my full sized ford van , pryed the caliper off ,screwed up the piston In the process and when I loosened the line banjo bolt it squirted out and loosened up so instead of just a rubber line and set of brake pads I was in for a caliper too . The van had only had 60k on it and I bought it new . Just a poor hose from Ford when Quigley did the 4wd conversion .
Thanks again for all the tips. I went ahead an just picked up a new seal kit and, two new hoses (might as well) from monotaro for 11500 Yen ( about 110 USD). Thinking about doing either a video or writing up a tutorial based on my experiences (first time rebuild for me. I know there is a bunch of videos surrounding this topic on youtube, but I didn't see one specifically for Acty trucks. I'll keep you guys posted.
would be nice if you can make a video or writing up a tutorial based on your experiences. Probably similar to the youtube I linked above for the Honda Civic, also mention the part numbers of the seal kit and the 2 new hoses you bought, always good to have them. And also good to have Monotaro online here in Japan, good deals.
I'll try and do just that. Monotaro does have decent deals, and its great you can search for parts specific to your vehicle (using data from the vehicle registration). The down side, is some parts will only be sold to users registered as a business, or they simply don't carry it; a problem with older vehicles. Fortunately I am luck enough to have a buddy who owns a body shop and can order straight from Honda. It can be primacy but, sometimes there just no other choice.
Last question.... Anyone know the setup of these break lines? If I'm only messing with the fronts, will I need to bleed the rear as well? Looking at the epc data, it appears the fronts are two separate lines, while the rear is one line from the cylinder then splits at the back of the vehicle. .
here is a pic of a brake master, there I see 2 lines https://autoparts.beforward.jp/detail/Brake/Brake-Master-Cylinders/PA33389785/ Not sure which one is for rear, but if the reservoir is empty, also the rear line could get some air in theoretically. For safety reasons I would bleed front and rear, then you also have new brake fluid in the complete system.
Thanks! This will finally give me a chance to actually use all four of my jack stands... I knew buying more than two would come in handy at some point
If you have the system open , all the tools out , a helper to help bleed it only takes a couple more minutes And as stated before you have flushed the whole system of the old fluid . Plus you know for sure no air is left in the system
Did the rebuild today. Went super easy only took a couple of hours. As mentioned above, I was thinking about doing a complete wright up on how to do it, but with what's available on youtube there really is no need. The acty is exactly the same as a civic, one really helpful video was the one shogun linked to above. note that you really should use a flare wrench on the break line, mine was not super tight, but if it was, I would not want to be risking rounding it off with a box wrench.. Additionally, there is no bleed nipple on the passenger rear I assume you bleed the rear from the drivers rear; however, I could not get the driver rear open without striping the bleeder, so I said to hell with it. Bled the fronts real good then went for a long test drive.. The pedal is pretty solid and there does not seem to be any air in there. I'll probably order a new rear bleeder and change that out. I'm thinking I might also do the wheel bearings in the next few weeks, I'll keep you posted on that. I'll post some parts data in a minute. Thanks again for everyone's adivice!
for the wheel bearings I found some info on the forum rear https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/honda-acty-rear-axle-replacement-tips.7744/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/1992-acty-rear-wheel-bearings.7556/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/honda-acty-rear-wheel-bearing-sizes.18458/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/acty-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement.7549/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/how-to-remove-rear-axles.2961/ front https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/ha2-front-wheel-bearing.17872/
Slide pins for an HA4 (possibly others) are two different part numbers --> 45236-SC2-003 (Top), and 45235-SC2-003 (bottom). Anyone know how to tell the difference between these two?
no marks on it, parts list says pin A and B ? https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-ca...USPENSION/FRONT-BRAKE/17SA701/B__2200/4/21423
I'll have to take a closer look, might have missed something. BTW after the caliper rebuild and changing the drivers side bearing, still getting hot wheels running out of ideas here,
Something's not making sense here! What's hot? Temp. can radiate and travel, even heat transfer, but, what's exactly hot? Is your trans axle fluid up to snuff?
You said it, things are not making sense. I haven't had time to take it for a longer distance drive then find the heat source, mainly I was referring to the wheels and lugs. I'll take a look at the fluid this coming weekend.
Now I'm really intrigued by this.... Just went to the local parts supplier, the listed top pin (45236-SC2-003, Pin B) has been discontinued, but they are still making the listed bottom (45236-SC2-003, Pin A). Plan on taking a very close look at the ones in my truck the see if there is any significant difference...more to come.