Hi Guys, One of my customers has a 91 Honda Acty that is exhibiting a very strange problem.. It seems the truck will not run properly unless the filter box top is removed.. With the filterbox top on, when you step on the gas lightly it will accelerate, but once you press it down further it will bog down completely.. Once you take off the filter box top and give the element access to more air, there is no problem. We have changed the filter and same deal. Its seems the stock port opening where the air goes into the air filter does not allow enough air to go in?? Has anyone encountered this?
Unless the intake is clogged or something, i would start looking at vac lines and valves being reversed or timing too far advanced
Dan: Unplugged all the extra lines.. ie. Line going from muffler, line going to resonator and line going into frame rail.. Same results. Stuff99: Timing wasn't changed, was running fine for about 8 months apparantly, customer put about 35,000km on it too, then suddenly one day this problem. Couldn't see any vaccuum line problems may check again though.. I noticed in the air intake there is a sensor with a single wire going back to the engine bay.. Is this a MAF sensor?
Yeah. odd one. I have seen it before too. Drill some holes in the lid and cover with mesh. It works. Lol
Or? Y not take off the front bumper. Then take an air line. Or a pressure washer and blow out the frame rail? Take the rats nest or mud out of it. Or you can blow it out from the carb side into the frame rail. But most likely you will not get it all out this way. (Remember to take your air intake cover and filter out when you do this.) When I cleaned out mine there was a lot of **** in it lol .
Misterturbo did you ever find out what caused this problem for sure. I'm sure other Honda owners like myself would like to know what you found so we can maybe catch it before it causes problems.
It ended up being that something in the carb needed to be rebuilt. It was some gasket of some sort that was torn. I had given the customer a spare carb. and their mechanic took the peice out of that one. Not exactly sure what part it was though.. Incidentally, I ran into another problem previously with an Acty. Basically it would run great, but sometimes when idling it would just shutoff. You could restart it, but you would have to either hold your foot down on the gas, or crank up the idle screw. Then mysteriously after a while, the problem would fix itself, but then you would have to crank down the idle screw or else it would rev a lot higher. I found out that this problem is caused by a sensor on the carb. On the carb there are a couple sensor. One of the sensors is supposed to recieve 12V when the car isn't moving/idle, but it wasn't sometimes. So I just put 12V to that wire and it fixed that problem.
Thank You for letting us know that it was a carb problem and not a air intake clog. I wonder if anyone can get a carb rebuild kit for these things.
I think I have the same issue; '93-94 Honda acty truck starts and idles but give it gas and it quickly boggs down and will only move in a higher gear slowly! I had the crab rebuilt in Canada ($250 US) to no avail and had a new air filter too. So any resolution except to pull the air filter off? Which I have not tried yet. One suggestion was to take the choke vacuum lines and by pass the choke "black box" (on top of the engine) but this didn't help my problem. jk
Pull the lid off and test. If you get back your performance, then you have blockage/restriction somewhere in the air intake. See StarPuss's post above.
Taking the air filter cover off does increase the air supply and help with this problem but I found the true cause of the problem was the air cut off solenoid. When it goes bad it doesn't open up the passage way in the carb that feeds pilot air to mix with the fuel at the jets. Here is a picture of where it's located. What this solenoid does is with power applied it closes off the passage way to the vapor canister hose connection and allows air to be mixed with the fuel at the jets. When you turn off the key it closes off the passage way to the jets and opens one to the vapor canister hose connection so that fuel vaoprs are not relesed to the atomoshere. The coil was fried on mine and I wasn't able to find another solenoid without buying the whole carb so I removed the solenoid from the small casting that it mounts to and made a metal cover plate to put in its place. You also have to block the hose connection to the canister or it will suck too much air and not run right. I made a plug to fit in the mounting casting but you could just put a plug in the rubber hose to the canister and re-attach it to the connection. Mine has run fine this way for several months now.
That was the solenoid that I was having problem on one of my trucks before. It wasn't getting 12V.. Could be a common item to go bad on Acty's, I've had it one more time before.
Hey guys i would like to revisit this. I am having the same problem misterturbo is having. So the two sensors on the carb. The high up one oldmachinist showed a picture of, will that sensor cause the truck to just randomly shut off? That sensor has a green wire can I just unplug it and hit it 12v to check?
I had the problem some years ago, that when I pushed the throttle pedal slightly it worked, when I pushed it more, smoke = unburnt fuel came out of the exhaust and speed went down. Also tried without air filter and it was a bit better, but it did not solve the problems. Changed both solenoids and problem was solved. Then I tested both of them, actually only one was broken. But I changed them both at same time, a friend who is running a K-car repair shop here in Japan told me they usually last max. 100000 km or 60 kmiles. Not too expensive parts, I paid less than $50 here at the dealer for both of them. The other one still switched, easy to test with a battery, I posted that you tube many times already , see for example this link https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/1996-honda-acty-running-rich.17320/ Part number for the solenoids are here: 6031-PZ3-000, 6024-PZ3-000. "That sensor has a green wire can I just unplug it and hit it 12v to check?">>>see my link above
Ok so I can test both the solenoids by unplugging the connectors and hitting them with 12v right? Little update did a full tune up including air and fuel filter. Today it ran great didn’t stall at all. Also today I took the ignition switch apart and cleaned it, I did that on my other one and it made a big difference. I just want to know if one of these solenoids will cause the truck to randomly die? When it idles it’s so perfect. No miss fire no smoke not down on power Thanks
I removed the solenoids from the car and tested then with 12V battery and ground as shown in the youtube. I did not have any problems with idle respect. engine did not die when the solenoid was dead.
I’m having similar issues, bogged down for 20-40 minutes with interment white smoke, once warm and slow driving up and down the block problem seems to remove and run like a top, I will try and replace the solenoids, can I get some clarity or a link to test?
white smoke? White smoke could mean coolant. Is the coolant level going down? If that coolant goes thru the exhaust, that could in worst case be a headgasket problem. In my case when the solenoids were defective I had black smoke = black smoke typically indicates that your car is burning too much fuel. Ever changed the airfilter? Maybe that is dirty. For a test you easily can remove the filter cartridge, easy to remove, it is at the rear of the car, just 2 or 3 clips hold the airfilter housing cover. When blue smoke starts coming out of your exhaust pipe, this is a strong indication that oil is burning in your engine. If the valve seals or piston rings are worn out, oil can leak through into the combustion chamber, causing this reaction. But white smoke from the exhaust when engine is cold and you do not have coolant loss could also mean just moisture from the cold exhaust till it get's dry. Testing the solenoids I posted here, see the youtube https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/1996-honda-acty-running-rich.17320/ How do the spark plugs look? black? How to Read Your Spark Plugs https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-read-your-spark-plugs-by-olivia-marsh
So I noticed if I take the air filter cover off, the problem totally resolves, instant power restored to the gas pedal. Mechanic told me maybe the PCV valve.
Is there anyway to do this without removing the front bumper? Mine has a brush guard welded to the frame, plus removing the front bumper seems like a major pain.
Here you have the part numbers of both valves and a pic https://minkara.carview.co.jp/image...00/001/808/517/1808517/p7.jpg?ct=e67d9860e4e9 6031-PZ3-000 SOLENOID, AIR VENT CUT 6024-PZ3-000 SOLENOID, SLOW CUT location see here http://jp-carparts.com/honda/part_d...TY TRUCK&cartype=30822&fig=E&fig1=100&fig2=13
Can you test both Solenoids without removing? It seems the two connectors are exposed to left of the carb on top I believe.
yes, pull the cable, connect it to a battery 12V + ground as he explains in the video + if you hear it click, the valve should be o.k., if not, scrap it and buy a new one, also explained in the video and he shows how to connect it to a battery, important is that you hear it click.. Very common failure on the Acty carb after about 70kmiles
Uh yea I’ve read everything so far but thanks for the recap. I know everything said so far I just want to be lazy and not remove the solenoids OFF the carb to test them.
Revisiting this: I have this same problem. Truck wants to die when you give it gas. Can only drive around extremely slowly. Removing the air box cover helped 85%. Didn't want to run it without the cover so I pulled that flap out of the airbox that that's connected to the muffler, helped probably 90%. Truck runs great all the way up until over 90% throttle and then truck bogs and wants to die. So I replaced both solenoids discussed in this thread. Should have tested my old ones on the truck. Both old ones tested fine off the truck. Replaced them anyway with brand new Honda parts (tested before install) and still have the same problem. Nothing changed. What else could I look for as these solenoids were not the problem. Pic of replaced solenoids.
Were you ever able to get this problem figured out? I think I have a very smaller issue with mine, after about a mile of running under power low RPMs. The vehicle wakes up and runs like a top but it takes about a mile to get there and you have to feather the gas lightly or it will bug down quickly. Sounds similar enough to an issue I am chasing so I thought I would ask. I have put in a replacement carburetor and it's doing the same exact thing
