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1996 Honda Acty Running Rich

Discussion in 'Honda Acty' started by dmcrx7, Jul 27, 2016.

  1. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    I'm at my wit's end.
    Plugs are black. Engine sputters. Idle adjust has little effect except to keep it from dying. If I pull a vacuum line, engine revs up and responds to idle screw, so I believe timing is good. Spark looks good.

    I checked the coolant lines going to the choke and both sides were hot. Still need to pull them and check for obstruction. Both solenoids 'click' but the vent solenoid does not pull vacuum in either position if I pull the line off and connect/disconnect the solenoid. May pull the plunger and block the line just to see if it helps, but removing the air filter cover, filter, or even the whole intake up to the carb does not change anything.

    Fast idle cam never seems to move. Hot or cold. Choke butterfly is free. Still need to get a mirror to check position of it. If I rev it up, black actuator on choke moves up, as it should.
     
  2. shogun

    shogun Member

    In my case the problem were the 2 solenoids for air on the carb. Clicking does not 100% tell you they are working. You have to remove them and test them if they really function. Use the battery, just plus and minus.
    In my case the solenoids were blocked and not moving = too rich and unburnt fuel came out of the exhaust and no power when I pushed the gas pedal down.
    According to a friend who has a shop for K-car repairs these solenoids usually last max. 100000 km.
    here how to disassemble and clean the carb http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/kurumanosentakuya/archive/2012/3/25
    air valve http://s245.photobucket.com/user/calfranch/library/HondaATCY/Carb/AirCutOffSolenoid?sort=3&page=1
    how to test the valve Part number for the solenoids are here: 6031-PZ3-000, 6024-PZ3-000.
    pics of both valves http://minkara.carview.co.jp/image....00/001/808/517/1808517/p7.jpg?ct=e67d9860e4e9
    from this site, Japanese DIY Honda Acty http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1107954/car/1018655/1808517/note.aspx
     
    Ronin likes this.
  3. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    Thanks, I believe I read where you pulled yours without pulling the carb. Which way do you recommend?
     
  4. shogun

    shogun Member

    Easier is just to pull the solenoids, easy access from top. If that still does not help anf the solenoids work, next step would probably be cleaning the carb
     
  5. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    I pulled the solenoid and it was working. At least until I got it halfway out. I twisted it a quarter turn and it start working again. But it never was consistent so I pulled the plunger and capped the tube. Then I started pulling vacuum lines. There was no vacuum on the power valve, so I tee'd into the black choke actuator line. It started running well and I set the idle adjustment. But why? Isn't there supposed to be vacuum on the power valve at idle?
     
  6. shogun

    shogun Member

  7. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    Guess I need to check the throttle control solenoid and valve. That appears to control the vacuum on what I think is the power valve, the large silver actuator on top of the carb next to the black choke pull off
     
  8. shogun

    shogun Member

  9. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    Shogun,
    Can you pull the vacuum line going to the big silver actuator and see if you have vacuum at idle, and under throttle?
     
  10. shogun

    shogun Member

    Not at the moment, gave my truck to a friend for 2 weeks who needs to transort some stuff. Maybe someone else can test it for you on his Acty. Otherwise you have to wait.
    Just be to sure where to pull the vacuum line, post a pic where to pull.
    Basically I assume vacuum at idle should be small or minimum, while with full throttle the vacuum should be high.

    Edit, found here 73 - 307 mbar, but not clear which engine and built year ge refers to
    https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/89-acty-specs.2853/

    Anyone witha James Danko repair manual for the Honda Acty which could check for details?
    https://books.google.co.jp/books/ab...ervice_Manua.html?id=WhhKAgAAQBAJ&redir_esc=y
    On page 61 it shows vacuum test for distributor:
    warm engine to operating temperature
    disconnect vacuum advance hose and attach to vacuum pump/gage
    NO VACUUM should be present at idle , vacuum detected : replace thermo valve and re-test
    run engine to 1200 - 5000 RPM . Vacuum should be present entire range. No vacuum: replace thermo valve.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2016
  11. shogun

    shogun Member

    Just for your info, I edited the above post as I found some data, hope you can fix it and let us know how.
     
  12. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    Back at it. Truck ran great with power valve connected to choke vacuum line and that solenoid blocked til last weekend. Running rich again. Need to verify choke butterfly position and check the other solenoid. How do you remove it?
     
  13. shogun

    shogun Member

  14. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    Finally pulled the lower solenoid. Still could not get it all the way out(wire was stuck on white plastic cover). But it seems to be moving. I will check again when I replace the upper one (unless I decide to just go ahead and replace both). Still running rich. Not sure if choke is opening all the way.
     
  15. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    Choke pull off not working, but choke itself works perfectly. Fast idle works too. It was not touching the follower because I had the normal idle turned up where it's running rich. If I open a vacuum line it idles great. Otherwise still too rich. Will order both solenoids. Exhaust overtemp keeps going off. Clogged cat/exhaust maybe?
     
  16. dmcrx7

    dmcrx7 New Member

    Replaced plugs and truck runs great off idle, still way rich at idle or low throttle.
     

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