Hi, My 92 Hijet 4wd which I just got because I own a fabrication shop and thought it would neat to trick one of these out. My problem is: it starts, Idles nice most of the time then just shuts off. The motor sounds very strong and doesnt smoke. I have tried a different electric fuel pump with a regulator, gas tank, filter and took the carb completely apart and rebuilt it. ( the parts were supposedly very recent.) I tried two different carbs by making manifolds for them but still the same thing. It doesn't sound like its runing out of gas it just dies. The times on this vary but only by a minute or two. The plugs and wires are new too. Could it need new vaccume hoses? I dont really want to use most of these because my next trick is to make a manifold and run a small Webber. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
find out if the ignition is still firing. could be a coil heating up and shorting out or the control electronics getting hot.
Electrical I allmost feel stupid for not considering this possibility. I swamped for time right now so it has to wait a little while but I will let everyone know what the problem was regardless of what it is. Thanks for the help.
Jedd..... This may or may not help your reasoning. My 91 Ford Bronco had the exact same symptoms a couple of years ago. I rebuilt her twice so I thought I knew everything there was to know about it. Started with the basics, as always. Spark, fuel, etc. Everything checked out. I had plenty of spare parts (all spare sensors, etc) so started swapping. Nothing helped. Even bought a new distibutor (one of the few things I hadn't changed b4). Took about 2 weeks but I finally ruled out all the sensors, fuel, ignition system, etc. The ONLY thing I had left in the truck untouched was the computer. I opened up the archaic box and noticed right away a burnt filter capacitor on the incoming power line circuitry. Found another 'rebuilt' computer online but had to pay their core charge. I sent back my old unit and got an email from them saying "We're sorry you were dissatisfied with your parts and we're gladly refunding your money"......what???? They credited my credit card for everything I sent them....including the core charge. I ended up getting the rebuilt computer for free. I even called them to explain and was willing to pay the price, but the sales guy told me it was too much paperwork to change it... Ok.....silly story aside. If it runs for any amount of time and seems to be ok, it does seem to be electronic. Start with the basics (you have). Spark good, gas good, air good. Runs good for awhile then poof......sounds like something overheating. Without looking entirely for an electronic fault (more likely), you might want to look for leaks. Thermal expansion after reaching operating temp can cause certain gaskets to 'unseat'. You should be able to hear some of these. Start the engine, and listen. Note any different sounds just prior to cut-off. If you don't hear anything......go the electronic route. ok.....one more story. I had just the opposite occur with my 'multi-cab' here about 10 months after it was built. I parked at the bowling alley and turned the key to "off" but the engine didn't stop. Tried 3 or 4 times but it wouldn't stop. Even completely removed the key. No luck. My mind said it was a fried ignition switch, but turned out to be a partial short on one of the alternator wires. I couldn't initially comprehend this but these vehicles have been through alot and most of which we'll never know about. Good luck.....
Check your fusable links. When they get old and crack they kill the engine when they warm up. Ive changed a bunch here in Japan. This is common with all makes of Kei.
It turned out to be a combo of carb and electrical. The piece that screws into the float bowl was infested with crud and after cleaning it ( about an hour) it began to test properly. Also it was missing the rubber o-ring. The second peice was the seliniod that screws into the other side was shorted. Also the choke was assembled by Stevie Wonder it was completly jury rigged for no reason. Thanks again for all the help.
Can you tell me where the fusable links are, what they look like, what they connect? I have a 1993 Hijet with no power to the fuel gauge, temperature gauge, and three warning lights. Everything else electrical works fine. Thanks, Sam
Well I came across a problem with my Daihatsu acting funny.. twice.. Mine is a 2001, 20,000 kms when bought, 24,000 kms now. mostly street driven, few times a week.. 30-45 miles round trip on the long drives, and 5-10 miles on the sort trips. Twice I had the truck act like it lost power while driving.. running normal.. then all of the sudden it felt like it was running on 2 cyls.. no power.. still ideled at stop.. but ran like a hamster. Parked when I arrived at my destanation (work) and after my shift.. drove fine. ??? Well I have noticed the stock airfilter collects alot of duct.. even on the street. I knock the dust off, and blow it out with air about every 3 weeks. I went and converted a stock Yamaha Rhino cleanable/ oilable air filter to work in my airbox. And while talking to my Mach neighbor yesterday explaning my power loss, and regaining.. he said try changing the Fuel filter.. Hmmmmmmm. sound about right.. the truck has aprox 14,000 miles, orig fuel filter, and who knows how long gas has sat in it for extended times... (in Japan) The stock fuel filter has a in and out on the top.. and another on the bottom.. vent? 3" line just going into the frame in a hole. I picked up a standered inline filter today on the way home from work.. (2 lines) installed, and drove aprox 5 miles.. seemed to work a little better.. ??? Anyways.. just my 2 cents.. we all could use info on our experances.. Chris..
Thanks. What do they connect? What do they look like? I have the wiring diagrams from the service manual for the prior model (S80P?). Sam
On my 1992 Hijet they are the same exact two prong fuses you would find in any car built after they stoped using the glass tube type fuses. The plastic plug in type with the amp capacity written right on it. Something odd to consider was a friend of mine had an old satilite sebring that kept shorting out. When I took a look at it I discovered the fuse panel bolt was very loose and a simple tightening solved all problems. My point is sometimes look for the simple.
Zach, you replied to a thread from June of 2008. The poster hasn’t been heard for ten years. Bottom left of the posts is the day it was posted. and if you click on the highlighted user name, it will give you some information on them, how many posts, when they joined the forum, and when they last logged in. Please go into your profile and put the information on your truck in your signature line. It makes it lots easier to give you a hand when you need one, if we know what your rig is.
Zach, as mentioned above, we need car details. Here are some manuals for download, not sure if that fits your model https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/need-a-s110p-service-manual.20914/#post-123344
