My truck would not start. I popped the distributor cap and found a burned up rotor cap and this goop. does anyone have an idea what this could be. I plan to pull the distributor and clean it up but WTF.
Posting a pic was much harder than i thought but let me know if anyone has come across this situation before.
is that old oil? Then probably the shaft sealing could be bad. In case the shaft is worn, check if you can get a fitting speedi sleeve http://rima-cuscinetti.com/download/17_CR/02_CR_Speedi_Sleeve.pdf
okay distributor is finally out and it has an O-ring to seal it to the engine that seems okay. I cant find another seal but I remember another member (jigs) mentioned in an old post that it might have an internal seal that cant be replaced. Does anyone know if just the pickup coil can be replaced? or, if i have to purchase a new distributor to replace the leaky seal anyway, will the new one have a pickup coil, rotor cap and all parts but plug wires? Could the pertronix electric ignition module just bolt onto this plate and can the magnet slide over these pointy cam lobes? I will go and start looking for the replacement distributor now. thanks for the help guys.
I don’t think the Pertronix can be easily adapted. don’t think the magnet wheel would go over the reluctors, (aka spikes) on the stock shaft. I would expect an internal seal so the oil doesn’t go up into the breaker area which needs to stay relatively sealed. It would require pulling the shaft to get to it. But, it might be possible to machine the shaft to accept the Pertronix. Unless you have the ability to do the machine work you would probably be better off finding a new or used stock unit. The O-ring which seals to the block can let oil weep, and look good. You might try measuring the one you have and see halo close you can come at NAPA. There are some kits out there to rebuild the Aisan 4-cylinder distributors. I would guess that they have the same body. There are some videos on YouTube about taking one of them apart, and putting it back together. There is the o-ring at the bottom on the outside. You remove the shaft, by drilling off the peening on the end of the cross pin which secures, the drive gear and then driving it out with a punch. Then typically you will need a small gear puller to pull the drive gear off the shaft. After that the shaft should just pull up through the body. You can then get at one or two small seals on the inside of the shaft housing on the body, which seal the shaft, and a bearing that sits at the top of the shaft housing in the distributor body to keep it centered up. The bottom of the shaft is held in place by a bush next to the cam.
Thanks Jigs, I ended up getting a rebuilt Distributor from Yokohama (https://yokohamamotors.net/daihatsu-distributor-s110p-efns-engine-late-model-details.html) and I'm putting it in now but the distributor cap vent only has one vent like this one (https://yokohamamotors.net/product809.html), unlike the two vents on mine like this (https://yokohamamotors.net/product674.html). When i first got the truck the distributor had two vents, one line vented to the frame, which was also connected to the warm air intake and the other 12" vent line was just secured to the first one. I replaced the cap/rotor/wires when i first got the truck and decided to run the single vent line to the frame and just ignore the missing one. Now I'm wondering if the negative pressure from the intake had anything to do with the failure of the internal distributor seal? How do other trucks use this vent and anyone know what should I connect it to if just using the one?
Typically the frame is a fresh air source. So, I would guess that the hose on the frame is fresh air, and the other one went to manifold vacuum. The constant fresh air, helps prevent ionization in the distributor and related misfires when the humidity is up. By sizing the orifices, you could have fairly good control over the vacuum level in the distributor. The frame rails are open on the front, and the engine air comes out of the right hand rail, to the air filter and then to the carb. When the engine is cold, it draws from the left frame rail, and through the heater box around the catalytic converter, and then over to the air cleaner, then back to the carb.
