So here's post #2. I want an alarm, regardless of it being a stick shift, or unique, whatever. I'm going to be putting in a nice android auto 8" head unit after this. And I live in a not so nice area of Phoenix. It's not done yet, so this is only part story, part asking for help. We'll get there, though. The truck only comes with one door sensor, so I had to order another and wire it up. It's an Airtex 1S4557. https://www.ebay.com/itm/363785026456 Copy the dims from the driver side, and hack away at the passenger side. I actually did this job before wiring the brake light, so I had not straightened out the wire hanger for pushing wire through yet. The idea here was to have more magnetic material and be able to pull it over and out the slot. What actually worked was just grabbing the washer with tweezers. Getting it around the seatbelt mechanism was a bear too. Once it was down, there was enough material in the frame to just tap it. It works. Solder it to the same wire as the other sensor, and they both act as one input for the alarm. And the dome light comes on when either door is opened. I'm actually taking the input from the wire that runs down the window, across the dash to the buzzer on the right side of the dash. That buzzer is nifty. Never realized how they get controlled by the ignition first. In the diagram provided by the very helpful Bert, Honda doesn't even have the buzzer. It may be on another page, but it's annoying, because I want to figure out the other wires going into it. May be able to grab the ignition as well. Anyway, here's that one. And here's the turn signals / hazards. I'll detail the plan below. Plan is pretty simple: Hook it all up and make it work. Tada! But really. It's not a fancy alarm, I'm not doing power locks, there's no trunk or anything else, so it shouldn't be too bad. I'm going to use the supplied siren, and mount it under the truck. The siren itself pulls between 0.9 and 1.1A. Going to put the alarm on the door sensor/dome light fuse. It's a 15A fuse, and the only draw as far as I can tell is the dome light itself and the buzzer. Here's my very professional wiring diagram, and even professionaler bench test set-up: It all (mostly) works on the bench as planned, and I've found most of the wires I need to splice into. The same buzzer for the doors also has a convenient +12 to grab. It's the white/blue. For light flash, searching on FB revealed only ONE guy who had posted about an alarm, and he said he removed it because using the parking lights screwed a bunch of stuff up, all on the same + lead. So, hazards/signals are definitely their own thing. I'll need to use diodes to keep one signal from lighting another when driving though. Standard 1N4001's will do. I was thinking about using the ignition cut feature, but no matter the alarm state, I seem to still have continuity on the leads. I wasn't convinced to use it anyway, as, if the alarm fails, it may leave me stranded. So, the only thing left is the IGN position from the key. I've got the whole dash apart, including the ignition connector, so I could splice into the big ole fatty of a wire, but I'm looking for something smaller. Also, I'm a bit murky on the implication of ignition. At first, I thought it was for the 4th position, actually starting the vehicle. But now, I'm thinking it could be for the 3rd position, just on. In reality, I don't think it matters, as the brain only uses it as a signal to stop the "zone identification flashes" after the alarm has been triggered. Wires in the truck: Door negative input: green w/ blue stripe and single gray dashes. +12: white w/ blue stripe and single gray dashes. Buzzer. Hazards and signals all lumped up, left: green w/ blue, right: green w/ yellow. ON from the key is the black w/ yellow. That's where we're at so far.
So I checked out the buzzer. It has 5 wires, and is controlled so that when the key has not been inserted, it is off, regardless of door position. Key to position 3, while door is open, buzzer is on. Key turned from 3 to position 1/off, but hasn't been removed yet, buzzer is on while door is open. Nifty mechanism in those ignitions. Here are the wires to the buzzer. (ignoring gray dashes) Black = ground. Yellow = ignition trigger, +12 when key is in position 3 (on), and 4 (start) Blue w/ white = ground trigger, when key is in position 2 (acc), until key is removed. Green = door ground trigger. Grounded when door is open. White w/ blue = +12 constant. The plan is finalized! Nearly finalized. I still gotta mount that box, the siren, and run its wires too. I'm pretty sure I can squeeze the box into the steering column plastic. Ok, I'm gonna get to work.
I have not heared a buzzer, now I have know why. looks like you have it all well done. I've been installing alarms sense Highschool, 1974. they are getting smarter all the time. last one I did had remote start too. with a programable schedule. which is why I did it, because the car was so hot after work, getting in and didn't cool until I was almost home. thanks for posting all the pictures, this will make it easier for the next guy.
Yes, I hope it will help others. That's assuming it all works! I'd say I've spent the most time just finding wires! Then double and triple checking and figuring out other ways to prove to myself that I'm understanding it right!
my 90 does not have a buzzer, looked for wiring diagram for it, haven't found it yet. My book is for 94-96
Update time! I got it all wired up and working in the garage. I still have to put the plastics back together, and do the radio stuff, but it works! Let's pick up where we left off: The plan is ready, but needs implemented. First, I chose where to mount the box. Logical to me was on the right side of the steering column, snug to it, and the top mount to the frame. Zip tied loose until it was all done. Wire routing is also highlighted in this one. The buzzer wires go up over the frame mount, around the brake booster and down. Flasher, LED and siren go up but turn left. Buzzer wires. To splice, I used my fancy new strippers that can cut and pull insulation in the middle of a wire. Get the rubber cut, and split the strands into two "ropes" to insert the splicing wire between. Wrap it around, solder it up. I used a little tape to hold it in place for soldering. For the flasher wire, two diodes are necessary, so the turn signal pulses can't travel through the alarm wire to the other signal. Arrow points in the direction of current flow. Arrow points to the bar. I have 97 diodes left. (Practiced on one on the bench.) Lineman's splice is very reliable. From the wiring diagram above, there are two of each green/yellow and green/blue. Either of each will work. Note, put heat shrink on. I forgot it a LOT. So electrical tape will do. Next was the warning LED. I think I used a 5/16" bit. Not sure. They made the connector small enough to fit through the hole. Otherwise, at first I was expecting to have to cut and reconnect the wires. Plugged it in before tightening the zip ties on the alarm box. Finally, mounting the siren! I went through a couple ideas on that. Ended up putting it on a freon line mount underneath the E-brake spring. Stuffed the wire in a loom, and zip-tied it where appropriate to get up to the big grommet under the driver's seat. It has a few different holes, and I carefully cut another. Then followed the loom / wire that goes under the air duct, and up to the dash. I pulled the brown siren output wire down, and put spade connectors on either end, so I could unplug it for testing. For ground, one of the extras that I cut off the alarm box was just enough to pull up to the ground lug I've been using. Btw, that's also where I grounded the alarm itself. And... That's just about it. Lots of zip ties, electrical tape, stabbing wires, cussing, second-guessing, consulting people smarter than I, and even a little translating, and I got'er done. Hope it's helpful to some, amusing to others. It's not the cleanest job, but it'll work. The solder joints are strong, and the exposed wires are in looms, routed as safely as I can think.
