My 93 hijet jumbo S83P is dying after it is warm. Runs great when cold but has been dying when it gets warm. Let it cool down and it fires right up. Problem is just getting worse. Run lots of seafoam through it but problem still exists. Seems like it is starved for fuel. Can't smell gas so I'm sure it is not flooding out, it just quits like there is a fuel blockage. Any ideas?? Jody
Seems like it is running with the choke but after the choke opens up dies. Is the idle set high enough? Another option could be its running with the choke but you're not getting fuel to idle. Check that the idle stop solenoid is functioning. When the key is ON there should be an audible click signaling that the idle stop solenoid is open. There is a connector that could have corroded or the fuse is blown. You could also hot wire it on to check if the truck will idle. I eventually ran a seperate wire that was hot with the key in the ON position straight to the idle stop solenoid and problem solved. Ralph in Winnipeg
Thanks Ralph. I'll have a look at that. The truck quits when I am driving it. Not just at idle. Does that make sense?? Jody in Saskatchewan
Hey Jody, Wanted to get involved in this discussion since I am having the same problem. You sound like you have narrowed it down to a fuel issue. So do I, but if you haven't ruled out electrical, this is how I did it. Bought a timing light and attached it to any and all hi tension plug wires. In my case I have spark all the way to the point where the engine quits turning. That ruled out (I assume) anything electrical except the plugs. Plugs seemed ok so I am moving on to the fuel. Any idea what the fuel pressure should be going to the carb? After reading this I will follow up on Ralph's suggestion. Wondering if I can measure the pressure immediately before hitting the carb. Rule outfuel pump and filter maybe. Steve
Hi Steve Here is where I am at. Once the truck died again I checked the fuel coming out of the tank, Pulled the line off at the fuel filter. No fuel coming out from the tank. When I blow into it to clear the line fuel runs out then stops. My next step is to take off the tank and clean it. My thoughts are this. I think the fuel pump will pull fuel through the line until it gets hot then the pump fails. I also took a fuel tank and put it in the back of the truck, put a line into it to see if the warm fuel pump would pump fuel. No luck. So I will remove and clean tank, put another fuel pump and new fuel filter on and hopefully this will solve my problem. Major storm here so truck will have to wait few days. I'll keep you posted. Anybody else out there have any ideas, I'm all ears. Jody
Time is running good till it gets warm then the idle goes up. When i hit the gas it tries to.die. Just bogs out. If Im in gear and put.my foot to the floor it falls on its face and tries to die. Got good fuel. Filter everything. I can't figure it out. Ill try the timing light trick but Im sure its just some simple thing somewhere.......
I spent the better part of three months trying to bug out a 4WD issue. In the end I went against the grain from what the manual was telling me and found the problem. Forest for the trees kind of thing. From my experience with that I just learned to not overlook the little signs. I'm kind of with you on your thoughts about it being fuel. Timing light did help me out, but I had different symptoms. It would run fine at idle for 10 minutes then die. But unlike yours mine would never die as long as I was moving at a slightly elevated pace. That's why I thought it was electrical. If it were just a hiccup, then with the higher rpm's it could sort of bounce back. Say an overheated coil or something. I'm kind of eying up the solenoids mounted on the carb. This coming weekend will be my first good weekend to spend time on it. If I find out anything I will let you know for sure. Did find out another thing. they have some smart cats on this forum. Best thing I ever joined.
Hahaha yea they do. I discovered at about 3am that my fan is melted. Has been for quite some time by the looks of it. So Im hoping it is just something it does when hot. Trying to cool itself off. Good thing we are hovering around 26 deg f up here in Alaska. Could have been real bad. Good luck to ya. I am interested to know what yours is doing
Sounds warm for Alaska, but cold for Louisiana. At least you caught it before it is too late. I'll let you know what I find, just hopefully not 3 months from now.
In the USA our trucks may suffer from ethanol blend fuel eating up components in the fuel system. In Japan most fuel doesn't have any ethanol and it's limited by law to 3%. For sure 1990's vehicles were not designed for E10/E15. You might want to check rubber lines or something may have swollen in the fuel pump. Rubber on needle might be sticking to the seat in carb. Good luck! .
In my case, because of this crazy corn blend, I plan on replacing all of the fuel lines like I did with the vacuum hoses. But never considered the fuel pump. Good point! Wondering if I should forego the mechanical fuel pump in favor of an electric? I have easy access to ethanol free and use it in everything I own. But maybe the previous owner (I've only had it a few months) wasn't as concerned as I am. Would probably be cheaper than a new mechanical.
I just found out my problem today!! On my choke there is a little tiny spring that hooks onto the choke arm. There is a plastic gear that rides on a metal geared arm. As the engine warms up it.melts the way i. The carb. That causes the geared arm to move in turn moving the choke open but the tiny spring keeps a small amount of tension on the choke. It the choke opens too much or not enough it causes serious problems.all that said my plastic gear was stuck to the pin it is on as well as the spring not being on the choke arm. I got it all free and back together. Just havnt got the correct tension on the choke yet. Maybe check that out. I had to remove the cover in the bed of my mini as well as the side of the bed to get my head in the right spot to see it. And had a bright flash light. Hope that helps....as for our weather.....yes we have been enjoying a very odd winter up here. Usually 40 below right now not 40 above. But i don't mind hahaha. I went to Louisiana a year Nd half ago. Just before madi gra and ended up with heat stroke at 3 in the a.m. Hahaha on a better note i did get to catch a 14 foot gater on a little line with a big hook!!! Gater is awesome!!! Love the stuff hahaha
Good find, congratulations. In my case when I got the truck I did a lot of (attempted) tuning on the carb. Fupabox has a good video on You-Tube that explains that procedure pretty well. In that video he talks about that same mechanism you found. Atthe time at least it seemed to be working okay. The fellow I bought the truck from had the problem too and told me about it before I paid him. But it certainly warrants another look at now. I messed with it when I got back from work yesterday evening. You know all this talk about low speed cutoffs and 25 MPH limiters? I am concentrating on that right now cause it acts just like I turned the key off. The book illustration shows the low speed cutoff solenoid as a one wire element going into the carb at an angle and the 25 mph thing as a 3 wire element that goes in straight up and down. Mine is different I think, but I need to look the book over again today to be sure. 40 below??? Oh my goodness. I been watching all of your reality shows (Yukon Men etc). Beautiful country up there. Sure that gator wasn't on Bourbon street right? Lol.. Where did you take a swamp tour at?
Mine was doing the same thing. Hit the gas and it was like ya shut it off. I reached around the carb and fiddled with the choke with one hand while messing with the gas pedal with the other. That's how i figured it out. Believe me just the smallest tiny little movement made huge differences. Its worth a try. We went to hammond and visited the kleberts gater farm. I know i spelled it wrong. Sorry. Any way they had a couple gaters that escaped and asked if we wanted to help wrangle them back. It was a kick in the pants. T mike is pretty cool. Still talk to him from te to time. That's how i get my gater sausage and gater tail hahaha. He was trippin on me though. I was out there in flip flops shorts and a tank top thrashin threw all sorts of pokie visciousness hahaha. Don't believe everything ya see on those shows. Im surprised they havnt killed anyone yet. I have commercial fished all over Alaska. Done it all. Trust me those shows are going to be the end of someone
Hey, get on you-Tube and find setting a carb on a diahatsu by Fupabox. Pretty informative and of curse includes visuals.
I already watched this one hahaha. I know for a fact its my choke adjuster. I have to reset it every time i run it
Looked at my carb arrangement pretty close last night. I really have a lot to learn. I know I do not have the speed sensor mounted between the transmission and the cable. But the electrical plug on the carb is the 3 conductor type they show in the book and I've seen mentioned in this forum that is used when you have both the low speed cutoff and the speed limiter solenoids. It also has 3 wires going to the engine, 2 to one solenoid and the 3rd goes somewhere else that I can't see. That one has 60 Ohms so I don't think it is a ground. Before I start digging and pulling that one out, I am gonna take a closer look at the system you had issues with, and before that even I think I will replace all the fuel hoses, filters and verify the fuel pump is fuel pumping.
Ok......here is what I've done. I got mine up to running temp using my finger on the choke to keep it running right. Then once warm i removed the choke adjuster mech and re set it to run right while completely was and drivable. Awesome throttle responce even got my timing set right. Now Im going to make a choke override out of a break cable off one of the kids bikes. We have lots. What that will do is move the choke open far enough to run during warm up. I've already done this a few times with my finger or screw driver so i know it will work. Also i found out my 4 hose thermal vacuum switch does not work. So i disconnected my egr and plugged off the vacuum line at the egr end because there are other things connected to it. Then took the lines off My thermal switch and hooked them together. This took a bit of fiddleing to figure out what would work with what. But i got it. Now it runs perfect. Just have to make my override for the choke and ill be done. Maybe this will work for yours.
Hello Moose! Gonna have to re-read that one a few times to absorb all the work you did. Giving me hope though. I'm gonna have quetions I am sure because a lot of the components you mentioned I hve no idea where they are at. I do know the choke actuator mechanism. I might send you pics of mine and see if it is shte same arrangement. Meanwhile this weekend I replaced all the fuel lines and fuel filter. Tried checking the fuel pressure but the gauge I had was 0 - 200 and it looks like it runs in the neighborhood or 5 - 10. I initially did a lot of fiddling with the carb when I bought it, so chances are I have something there to correct. Gonna break out my pics and manual and cross it against what you said. What and where is the 4 hose thermal vac switch?
splauchs....your temperature controlled vacuum switch is behind the fuel pump toward the front of the truck just below the oil filler extension rubber hose
Hey there Fupa! Thanks for joning in this conversation. I replaced every vacuum hose on my truck, so either I had my hands on it at one time, or Gasp, I missed something. Which wouldn't be the first time! I will try to attach a pdf and you can tell me if you see it in the pic. I have a bunch of pics I took over a period of time and this is one of them, not really taken for a particular reason. When I get home I will jump on it and see if I have that. There are 2 vac switches easily seen from the top of the motor through the hatch. One attached to what looks to be the manifold near the distrubutor cap, and one between the carb and the cab, sort of. Doesn;t sound like where you described, but maybe?? Also, those wheel adapters worked great. Had to cut off a length of the old stud like you said, but not a biggie. Oh, and the truck is a lot cleaner now than when this pic was taken. Guessing since I don;t see the pic it didn;t attach.
Well I've thrown my hands in the air on mine. My override worked good for a couple days. Then we got warmer. Had to readjust choke again. Now Im just hoping for a manic wand or a ferry to sprinkle pixi dust........
Moose, Let me know where I can get one of those magic wands. Maybe e-bay. Actually I am cautiously optimistic about the results I'll get by replacing the fuel filter and all of my fuel line hoses. Wish I would have looked closer at the tank while I had it on the shop floor. Read somewhere that there is a pre-filter inside the tank. Not hard to pull off if I need to, but some of these lines really needed replacing. Ordering an air filter today as well so maybe that might help. When I had the tank down, I saw what appears to be a filter on top of the tank. It is not in the liquid line going to the engine so I am guessing it has something to do with emissions. Either of you ever mess with that? Fupabox, I am back at work today and hopefully will have a few minutes to critique that drawing you put up. I looked again yesterday for that vac switch but just don't see it. I already know the systems on my truck are a little different for some reason so maybe mine is located somewhere else. Might be that vac switch mounted on the cab side of the carb. I think the other one mounted near the distributor cap is the egr valve, maybe...
Hello All!, I thought I would have that pdf on emissions in my book, but I don't see it. Since they don't show it I am guessing I won't see in reference to it in the book either. But,, if it's function is to open up and allow watre to pass through the carb as the engine heats up, then I would venture to say it is working since I can feel that part of the carb where the water passes and it gets quite warm. So something is allowing it to pass through. Unless of course it is stuck open and always allowing water to flow. I will follow the vac hoses from that vac actuator sen in the attached pic next to the green electrical connector a top. I am guessing that it is the actual element that does the work to allow water to pass through. Somehow I accidentally posted this to a different string earlier. Sorry for that.
