Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by greg0187, Aug 13, 2008.
Ok thanks Greg
Hey everyone I’ve got a daihatsu Hijet Jumbo cab my tach signal is a red with yellow stripe coming from the ecu hope this helps others I finally got my tach installed
thank you Greg for all your help
Thanks for the update, Brayden. After spending a fair amount of time this winter plowing our drive at high RPM's, I really ought to get a tach installed!
I have a 2008 Hijet (S211p). I found a red wire with yellow stripe but it goes to my emergency flasher button. Hmmm, I wonder if they changed the wire color at some point? Anyone find the tach signal wire on an S211p?
Is this the cam position sensor? It does have a red/yellow stripe wire coming from it. I found the wire at the ECU as well. I would really like to find the loose wire behind the gage cluster. I removed the trim around the speedometer. Any tricks to getting it out? I can't see exactly how its held in place.
I doubt there will be a loose wire behind the dash. Check the plug that goes to the cluster. The plug on my S110P, has a couple of extra wires in the harness side of the plug, which don’t line up with any pins on the speedo cluster. I would guess they were for something my cluster doesn’t have, but the van version does, like a tach.
Thanks Jigs. Is there a trick to removing the speedo cluster? I'm hoping I don't have to pull the entire dash to get to get it out. It looks like it may just snap into place but I don't want to pry too hard on it if there's a screw on the back side that I can't see.
Jeff, I’ve never seen an S210 series, so I’m not sure what your dash looks like. On the S110, the cluster is held in by two screws at the top of the dash overlay. And, you remove them, then run a panel puller around the outside of the dash overlay and pop it loose, then you can move the cluster enough to get the speedo loose.
In my misspent youth I worked in a body shop which specialized in putting s couple of wrecked Toyotas, Or Datsun's together into one rebuilt total, and selling them. I was the guy who stripped the interiors out, and then put the one in the best shape back into the body, after teh put the good parts together into one car. So, I’m pretty good at figuring out how to take them apart without damage.
Send me a couple of pictures of your dash, and I’ll give you my best guess.
Here's a few pictures of the speedo cluster. I took the trim off. No visible screws that I can see. If I have to I can pull the dash but it's kind of a pain. Hoping I can just pop the speedometer out. I haven't had time the past couple of days to mess with it at all so I haven't tried too hard to get it out yet.
The white things to the left appear to be clips, and the metal bracket at the top, could also hold it somehow. I take a trim puller, and gently pry to see if they come loose. Also, do you have sapped cable which needs to disconnect, or is it a fly by wire set up, with an electric signal from a sender on the transmission.
I installed a tach in mine (01’ S210P) a couple of winters ago. I had to tap into the tach signal at the PCM. I pulled my cluster and the each of the 3 big connectors going to it had several empty terminals (missing the pins). Mine didn’t have any extra wires. But, where the missing pins were, there was still a circuit on the board behind the cluster. I saw marking for an automatic transmission on there also. Makes me think that the circuit board is the same, but the clusters and wiring harnesses may be different between the trucks and vans.
Like jigs mentioned, the van models, a S210V in my case, have a tach. I bought a used van cluster and it came with all three of the big connectors still plugged in but all the wires had been cut. Each of the three connectors had 10-15 wires in it. I took a wire, tapped it into the tach signal wire, run it along with the factory harness up to the cluster. I then took one of the short cut wires that still had a terminal pin to it and connected it to this new wire I ran. I traced the circuit board and found the pin position for the wire that fed the tach needle. Plugged the new jumper wire into the empty terminal on my factory connector and plugged that up to the new cluster. Tach works great. I’m pretty sure the wire was yellow with a red stripe. I’ve been meaning to make a thread on how I did it but never got around to it. I’ll try to get some pics up.
I found a really good thread later on a Japanese forum or blog and it was a guy putting a stand alone tach in his Hijet. Same deal, he mounted a tach on the pillar, tapped the signal wire and tapped a wire for the backlighting. The pics were very good and I ran the it through google translate. I may have bookmarked that link, if so, I’ll post it.
I had to physically remove my odometer wheel from my cluster and reinstall it into the tach cluster to keep my km’s accurate.. It was a real PITA to remove with all of the little tamper security devices built in. If I had to do it over, I’d just install a stand alone tach. The later 210’s (I think starting in 03’) and beyond have a digital odometer like yours so I’m not sure what it would take to match up the mileages if you did a cluster swap.
Found the thread that got me started:
Looks like red wire, with yellow stripe (for a 210) I believe this may be the translated link, Google was acting funny:
Jeffsimon, check out this tach! Looks like it’s built into the speedometer for your 211.
Jeff, I went on eBay, and found the speedo for your rig.
It has a picture of the rear. Your cluster is held by the two spring prongs on the lower back. Also, this unit has the integral tach. Whether you would want to install it on your truck, would depend only on whether you want to spend the money, and whether you car if the odometer is correct.
Thanks guys! Before I checked the thread, I was able to pull my speedo. Popped right out. Those factory tach/speedo clusters would be nice. But, I just got my Glowshift tach in the mail today so I'll use that. Unfortunately, I'm not seeing any missing pins on my speedometer harness. I'll have to check out Inane2's links and see if I can figure out which color wires are the ignition hot and the lights-on. Any thoughts? What kind of logic probe do you guys use to check wires? I don't have a ton of experience with this sort of thing but I have a technical background so I'm not totally lost.
I have a multimeter that I can probe the pins on the harness. I suppose I can check each pin for voltage with the ignition off, to see if any are always hot. Then check pins with ignition on to find any that are ignition hot. Then if turn the lights on and probe for voltage again, I should be able to determine which wire is tied to the light-on. That sound like a good plan? Brown tends to be ground correct? At least that's what I found on my radio install. I'm assuming from everything I've read on here that the Red w/Yellow stripe wire is the tach signal. That seems to be pretty consistent across the board.
Here's where I'm going to mount it. There's a cover for the dash bolt right behind the tach that I drilled a small hole in to feed the wires into the dash.
Well, I ordered a proper logic tester. I didn't realize those things will indicate, ground, power, and even tach signal. Useful tool to have around! Should be a piece of cake to wire it up with that.
Quick question, when i probe the tach wire with the logic probe, while the engine is running, should the probe lights flash or something? I probed all of the terminals on the harness and didn't get any flashing lights or both lights on. The red with yellow stripe wire just showed ground. I did find ignition hot wires and wires that turned hot with the lights on.
Bummer, the red with yellow stripe wire did not work. I feel like that has to be the tach signal wire. All of the other wire colors mentioned in previous posts for ignition power, lights, etc. were the same on my truck at the gage cluster harness. Everything on the tach works except for actually reading RPM. I wonder if something else might be wrong? I probed the red/yellow stripe wire at the cam sensor and it doesn't register a pulse signal there either. I probed a fuel injection wire and that showed a pulse so I know my logic probe is working correctly.
Hey Jeff sorry I haven been on here for a while but I’m here now and if you need help you can just ask me I love these hijets and love to help anyone that needs anything
Hey Brayden, yeah I was hoping to just do all the wiring behind the gage cluster. I gave up and switched the tach to 1 cylinder and just wired the signal wire to one of the coils. It seems to be working good now.
ok good if you wanted to wire it to the 3 cylinders I think I still have the picture from ecu with the wire you need to tap into.
Also Jeff in the picture I saw on here from you the wires did not look like they where coming from the ecu. did you find these behind the cluster or at the ecu because that could be why you where having issues.
Hey Brayden! I have an efi 95 hijet and would love any tach wiring pictures you can find!
05 daihatsu EF-SE engine save your self the pain and hook the Tach wire (ground sensing) to a negative side of one of the negative feeds for one of the 3 coils.
For a 2021 Daihatsu Hi-Jet Jumbo S510P, the Blitz FLD tacho 15202 worked perfectly and it runs on power from the OBD port, where it also gets engine rotation (RPM), speed (MPH) and coolant (water) temperature (Degrees Fahrenheit). I will add a better picture of it soon, but this one shows it in operation right after the first run.
It was expensive and I got it from Japan through Zenmarket (super fast, quality shipping) but it was 100% worth it. I would be surprised if it does not work for other Japanese trucks from the past few years.
LINK: BLITZ FLD Meter TACHO Tachometer / Engine Tachometer (15202) - Japan Shopping & Proxy Service (zenmarket.jp)
I would love to know more about this installation. What is the OBD port?
Edit: With just a little bit of research I figured it out, duh. I see them on eBay for about $450.
That sounds like exactly what I am looking for.
Thanks for the heads up.
Good to hear. I got mine directly from Japan from Zenmarket for about 33,000 Yen (about $250) and it shipped pretty fast once it got to their warehouse.
It is still working great and I may post a photo of the dip switch settings to show the items I mentioned if there is interest.
I just received my 2021 Jumbo and I'm in the process of installing a "cheap" tach (Glow shift). Can you tell me the color codes for ignition on and engine rotation? Greatly appreciated.
I also have a 2021 Hijet. I want to tap into the OBD port for the tach signal. Do you remember what the color code was on the wire you used? I'd hate to go rummaging around in that connector and accidentally shorting my ECU!
Below is a photo with the dip switch settings to show Speed in MPH and Coolant Temp in Deg F.
I also added a photo like the previous one but including labels by the red numbers.
FYI, I did have an instance where the battery was drained after not running it for a couple of weeks and I now disconnect the tach from the OBD2 port periodically as it seems to have been the source of the drain. This said, I think there was something specific to the instance where the battery was drained that I have not yet isolated (such as door lock activation from the key waking up the tach or similar).
No idea which wires are used since the BLITZ tach that I got connected directly to the OBD2 port without any wiring changes. The BLITZ tach needed to be set up with dip switches only; even power comes from the OBD2 port.
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