Your welcome. I need to post a few other things as I've let this thread slide a bit. Looks for updates in the near future.
@5Speed Do us a favor and fill in your signature with the details on your van. Helps us help you better.
I have updated my profile and signature. i got an update on my vans ETA to the port of Tacoma. It is now mid May.
Following! just picked up a 95 DE51V and I'm starting the process of getting it back on the road! It'll be another one in our Northeast Ohio Kei Club. so far we are up to 11 of us!
so when I got this van the belts were shot. I can source the serpentine belt easy enough just based on length and profile and use the alternator adjustability to make up a few mm of difference. I saw some references to the timing belts in earlier in this thread and I'm on this quest now. My question is, is the DE51V timing belt the same as the D[C,D]51T truck. I am finding posts that are selling parts on eBay that show that their offerings are compatible with all N/A 9th gen carry/every, but I'm just looking to see if anyone can support that claim. THANKS!
Its the same motor as a DD51t so you should be good. Only thing is you may want a couple cause I've heard of folks using the ebay ones having them snap. If I were you I would get a timing belt cheap and fast and then get a really quality one from one of the japanese parts houses. I got the timing belt, water pump and cam seal for the shaft from the dealer I bought it through. Wasn't too bad cost wise but more than ebay I'm sure.
OK... This van has been a project. I got it cheap and knew it would be work but now im starting to get stuck. I've already shipped a new transmission and clutch kit over and have it installed and working. Now I cant seem to find a Left Rear CV shaft assembly ANYWHERE! The rear left outer CV has grenaded and if anyone has a lead, OR CAN CONFIRM I CAN USE THE SHAFT FROM THE 4WD in my 2WD.... I would apricate it!!
Following, I have a 94 joy pop 4WD DF51V and I need a front left CV shaft. I have tried be forward parts, mega zip, and Amayama. I believe the part number is 4410151F40. Anyone know where I can get a new or used one. BeForward shows they have had used one before but none currently. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
Take one out and measure everything in mm and spec out the nut/bolt thread sizes and sizes. Then go to rockauto and start looking at Suzuki parts from the 90s. You might get lucky.
Hi - I'm new to the forum. Thanks for all of this amazing info - super impressed with your chronicling of your build. I purchased a 1991 Suzuki Every 660 Turbo last June 2022 and like a couple of others following the thread, have little experience with car repair. With summer starting, I need to get the air conditioner working properly. Currently, it blows fine, just not cold air. Suspecting a recharge of the freon is required. I couldn't find what kind is required and how to recharge. Any help would be greatly appreciated. PS - keep up the good work.
If you have little experience with car repair, AC work is probably not something you want to start with. First of all you will need a gauge set and vacuum pump. Then you have to decide on what you will fill it with R12, R134a or R152. Then you need to dispense it into the system at the right level with the right oil. You will also want to at least replace the dryer as the old one if probably used up. I recommend finding a good independent AC repair place, they should be able to deal with this but it will be new to them as well.
My Every finally came in and I picked it up yesterday. I spent the last two days cleaning out 25 years of dirt. I'm going to have to buy tires but since it already has nice rims I'm in a quandary weather to replace the 12-in tires on it or upgrade to something larger.
I am having trouble loading my pics as they exceed the megabytes allowed. I am looking for the front motor mount for the 2wd Every and the back up light switch on the trans. Looks like I will be doing the timing belt replacement and buying new tires. The good news is that my Every is running great.
Recently was getting intermittent no crank issues randomly. Pulled that small blade connector off the starter solenoid and the blade was coated with green copper corrosion. I cleaned it up with some electric cleaner and hit it with a wire brush and did the same on the female spade as well. Plugged it back in and seems fixed. Time will tell.
Good deal! Maybe put a thick coat of grease on the blade and connector so the grease is displaced during assembly to make a waterproof connection? Or maybe use the anticorrosive paste used by electricians when assembling aluminum cable? I've had good luck with Surface Shield anti corrosion spray. It's the spray version of the non-hardening lanolin based Fluid Film that's used to protect automobile frames from corrosion when driven on salted roads. I've used it for the intended purpose but also used it to spray battery terminals and battery cable connectors before assembly. It's great at keeping water out of the connection and preventing corrosion.
Yeah, the connection is really exposed to getting wet as its near the bottom of t he engine and no shields to protect the connections.
Finally wrote up the hitch installation, enjoy: https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/adding-a-hitch-to-suzuki-every.24420/
Have you replaced your air filter? Mine is 5" length and is an expensive little bugger. Best price I could find was from RightDrive Parts in Canada. With shipping it was cheaper than anywhere else with the exchange rate. Has anyone found an interchange for this one?
Got one new from the dealer when I brought it home in 2021. Needs a new one now as well. I was just going to measure and hit up a filter site somewhere that allows me to find my measurements.
So just took a quick peek at the fuel pump to see whats in there now and it looks like this type: And theres no room to use this common shaped one that we see being sold for all the trucks:
I have some spare Facet cubes of the right pressure and flow which I may swap one in for now. The Facet model number FAC-40104 are what they are. Used them successfully with my RX-7 on both the stock and an aftermarket carb. Shouldn't need a regulator but we shall see. Pegasus carries them new for $69.00. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=82
So I just confirmed that the Carry pump is number 15100-53F03 and the Every number is 15100-55F00. Not sure what the difference is other than the physical shapes.
Also picking up the WIX 33470 fuel filter which is a crossover for the OEM fuel filter mentioned in this post https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/carry-specific-parts-reference-tech-info.2775/page-2#post-104435 from Amazon for ~ $4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9XZG...UF7PDP7R&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Latest on the van. It finally broke down but didn't strand me. Went out to run an errand and it started fine and ran fine but then halfway there it started losing power. It would bog on higher rpms and it wouldn't go over 30 mph. I got to the destination and when I hopped back in it started up but was not well. Headed home and the power just kept decreasing until I was crawling at 15-20 mph and pissing off everyone following me. I made it home but I had to take a few runs to get up my driveway which is only like a 1% grade if that. I thought maybe it was a cat blockage so I pulled the exhaust off and pulled out the cat. Cleaned it out and fired it back up. No dice. I then checked the timing, reseated the belt because it appeared off by one tooth but I think it had been that way since I put the new belt on. Anyway, fired it up and the timing was spot on. No change. Next I pulled the valve cover and adjusted the valves and checked compression. Compression before valve adjustment 1 - 90 2 - 40 3 - 185 After valve adjustment 1 - 95 2 - 95 3 - 185 Added some oil in chambers 1 - 185 2 - 175 3 - 185 So definitely needed the valves adjusted. The intakes needed the most adjusting especially on #2 and #3 needed no adjustment. Anyway, no change and with the valves exposed I could very my timing was spot on. Also put in new plugs. No change. Next I verified the fuel pump was putting out fuel. Pressure at the pump was ~3 psi which would be about 2.5 at the carb and thats perfectly fine. Flow is good too. The problem is, I think, a a large vacuum leak. I pinched off key vacuum lines one by one and didn't see any changes. Pretty sure it is a carb problem. So I've ordered a bunch of parts from 500yenshop.com because the spark plug wires were coming apart and the valve cover gasket was leaking oil. The #1 plug was shorting out it had so much oil around the plug. The cap and rotor need to be changed as well. So have air filter, cap, rotor, wires, valve cover gasket, timing belt, and carb rebuild kit plus some other goodies coming in soon.
I could not match up any available domestic air filter. Using the WIX site nothing is the right dimension to work. So getting one from Japan.
It sounds like you're doing some stuff that needed doing on the path to discover what's wrong. Hopefully you find a major vacuum leak and it's an easy repair. A large vacuum leak would be consistent with the sudden loss of power. The top of my 1996 Hijet engine looks like a plate of spaghetti because of all of the vacuum lines on there. Apparently, Dihatsu was trying to do a lot of fuel economy and emissions improvements without the benefit of an engine computer, electronic ignition and electronic fuel injection, so they just kept glomming on vacuum operated gadgets to tweak performance at various operating conditions. I've heard that only one of those vacuum lines is needed and the rest can be plugged. That's tempting. I bought blue silicone vacuum line to replace what I believe are the original rubber vacuum lines. I like the look of black, but I bought blue so it would be easier to see which lines were new and which still needed to be replaced. I'm planning on replacing all of the vacuum lines before I develop an inevitable vacuum leak, and I plan on spending an afternoon meticulously replacing one line at a time with engine tests in between to avoid replacing the entire 19 miles of vacuum lines and then learning that the engine no longer runs and I have no idea which line is the problem. Good luck!
