On a "sky-line", it's strong enough to blow itself around the room. 12V brushless, very cool. Mounted between the intake manifold and the supercharger. Set to run, at the secondary watermeth level. So, above 50% throttle position, and under boost, this dual-fan unit will engage to blow some air onto the intake manifold, where the supercharger is bolted to it. Just helps to give that little bit extra, COOLING-AIR-FLOW, that the system needs. When above 30 degree C, and under boost. Maybe, even towing some shite... Cu'z. when your butt gets hot, you're in barney...rubble...trouble...:sly:
... Just the boosting consideration. Many, still seem to not have a clue... A waste of money... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbGWgvJN1_8 Then, an understanding. Boost, then some more... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2Po7fMbO_A Like guys trying to get their NA unit to a factory turbo, or supercharged factory spec; just a waste of time mate... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA___-ukpXI You can do this with a "flash", specific to the application, and the controlling ECU, OR, mechanical connection, with a carby... This is what the "Interceptor 2.0" is all about..."The Mechanical" adjustment/alignment. 100% gains in HP, Fundamentals, Blow the air flow, check the mixture...maintain the performance. Watermeth keeps it all cool, during those hot day performance cycles... AND, 91 octane, keeps it all under wraps... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DyyhVqs2IU Yea, my speedo was out after that run. Ran it past the max limit. Had to tune it down for proper reading again. It's not like you can wrap a speedo around twice. There is a stop, and it will reduce indicated speed... ...
That was a nice boost in power for that forester. Looks like they did that set up top notch for sure nice find spaner
... Been awhile, Spring is coming though, and I've gotten the wrenches out again. As posted on other threads here, I've had an electrical problem for some time now. Chasing back and forth, experience has taught me though, not to just change out components for testing/diagnostic. Costs big bucks to change out perfectly good parts. I think that I had it down to a combination fault in the alternator, and, the tech called me back today. I was right, took two seasons to figure it out, but yea. He wants to replace the rectifier, regulator, brushes...bearings while we're in there. OK... The Denso, but he can't find anything? It's been a week... A million plus trucks on the road? So what's up with that? What's the problem? Ever priced out an alternator for a DD51t? You don't want to do that. The lowest out there, is by one of our members (parts on the side and China, I think, looks to be the case E-bay) @ $180. To me though, $75 shipping, then duty, then taxes. Fuel, for the truck, for the year. Costly, to say the least...WHY?? That's my question for you guys why is it so expensive? Just knowing nothing, and want some power... What about a GM "single wire"? How about a similar Suzuki, that can be modded at a reasonable price? My regular, Canadian parts suppliers for the Carry, are ALL above $300, to the door... This gives me a little pain, right in the pit of my stomach...NO, I don't think that's right. So, I started shopping around. It looks to me like you'll have to mod something. Cu'z as soon as I look at a "direct fit", add 200 bucks. So, do I want to mod; 1) The electrical connector; or 2) The mounting; or 3) The pulley drive... Modding one of the three, seems to save about 100 bucks? Modding two of the three, seems to save about 200 bucks?? Modding three of the three... FREE? Not a chance. If worst comes to worst. Looks like I might go with a "Swift". Keep the plug, modify the mount, and the pulley... I will definitely let you guys know what I end up doing; but, I'd love to here some feed back. 99 dollar GM single wire? Someone's gott'a know something... Not everybody has spent the bucks, to get the job done. Someone, has done something... That's who we want to hear from... That's the guy I want to talk to... ...
Maybe try the junkyards to find a cheap one and mod it to see if it works? Then you'll know exactly which one to buy and how to mod it
check out these small equipment alternators...the company is in Oakville Ont. I found a match for my Daihatsu Mira from them..was also used on Kubota tractors...my alt. was on sale for $80 last year..in stock and I picked it up at the warehouse....tons of specs and crossover applications as well http://burloakautoelectric.com/Specials.php
Thanks guys. I'll let you know what I do for sure. I was hopping for an answer that could just fix me up. And others too. $300 is just too much, for something that I know is so simple. I was going to mod the setup anyway, since I don't really have enough belt wrap with the S/C mod. Not sure yet, I'll just let it play out. Dad's got a few GM's on the shelf; that might be the way to go...
Pretty sure, I'll look when I pick it up tomorrow. They just called to say it was ready. $80 bucks sure beats $300. New, rectifier, voltage regulator, brushes, bearings. Pretty much a new alternator. I think that I fried it by running the lower coolant line right under it, squished it there. I guess I'll have to reroute that...
NO, that should be via the "Overdrive". The "belt-wrap" consideration, should also include a 4-to-1 drive ratio increase. Over-drive the ALT . "Bar-light-LED", anyone? Maybe in the cards, we'll see... Gott'a get it cooled down, first...
Hey fupa, I know that you were just curious but, turns out, they painted it for me as well. Right over the sticker. I could try some paint remover but, pretty sure it was Denso. Turns out that the real reason it took so long, was that they were really busy, and had no problem finding the parts. "For this stuff", he says, "It's not a problem for us". "Well", I says, "Not everyone can just wait around for two weeks ya' know". "Ya, ya...OK" he says, "...$60 bucks" AND that's cash, no extra, extra... So basically, I got a brand new alt for 60, and he said that he could rebuild that alt another two times... Don't know why there would be a limit of three? But hey, I learned my lesson again. Almost payed $300 bucks, plus shipping, plus duty, plus taxes, plus..... So, what did I end-up doing with my carburetor? What did I end-up doing with my alternator? What do you think I'm going to do with my starter? If and when... Still learning; "To do it the right way"... Preview, off to the machine shop; alt should be back in a few days. To change belt drives, from outer to inner; extension bushings...:sly:
$60 so jealous..great shop you found there...overdriving the alt. sweet op: Great advice .."do it the right way" .as in give it to the pros who do it everyday, and charge a "proper" price..hard to find those guys anymore.. I have no clue why 3x more is the limit,but you'll prob. never need to test him on that I say go for the light bar
Well, I seen something that I liked, on Saturday morning cartoons on Spike...A HI/LOW with low watt draw (LED)...for the shop jeep build; BUT, why don't you pick it out? You seem to know what I'm talk'en about, nobody else does... What do you think? I'll just order it...:sly: Now THAT, sounds like fun...op:
Ooo.. sounds like fun I want to be sure your light bar idea and mine are on the same page...a fog/driving light combo ? .. I also have some really cool mini LED fog lights I bought as vendor samples I could send you as well (no charge) see pic. let me know the basic type you are looking for and I will accept the challenge If you want a pair of the mini LEDs shoot me your mailing address
... Well, I ask cu'z you're the LED Guru. If not you, then who? Right? AND those look cool, if that's what you think... What I saw on Spike though, was during the new help segment of the 4x4 program. One of the guys goes to a girls house to outfit her man's Jeep, or whatever. They just end up drilling two holes to bolt it to the front bumper, and I thought, hey, that'd probly fit right onto my front toboggan; two welded mounting tangs are already there... The "light bar" was about 2" in hight, 2" in depth, and was probably 24" long, with two stud type mountings, 12" apart. The face had about 10 cups in it, maybe two or even three LED's per cup. Said " HI and LOW functions, for offroad application, with low-watt draw"... I could track it down, I'm sure, via the Spike tv web site... Just thought you might have something similar in mind? BTW, the alt project has hit another, minor, snag. This is the difference between myself, and my dad, on these things... After explaining the mod, in detail, to him. He says "we'll just cut a couple of 1"ers of hydraulic line; and dat's her". "Put em in, and bolt her down". Naw, naw, I says. "Dad, the lower bushing has to be of the complete length, AND at a press-fit tolerance, so that the original tweeks, fitted with the lazer, are maintained...1" exactly, 2.540mm. AND, "there's no wiggle...tight and right"; as I often say... Well, turns out that the lower mount was bent. So, for a $100 bucks of machining, made no difference anyway. Might be able to pull it all into place, but the same could be said for some hydraulic lines; that were cut, and had, for free... What did I say? Still learning...:frustration: BTW, after I scraped the tag clean, it was clean, nothing there... AND, that pulley, is a GM 6-Ribb, ready for the S/C drive belt; a slight overdrive... ...
no label no prob. just curious since my local guy said Denso stuff was unavailable some options...various prices from expensive (although a lot of these are over $1000 in local/online shops) to reasonable expensive but nice as hell http://www.bajadesigns.com/products/led-lights-led-light-bar/sii-led-light smaller but good price for the lumen output http://www.ebay.ca/itm/8Inch-8-40W-...=item43b76ddf19&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_5330wt_1037 fully submersible flood and spot light http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-inch-LED-...xp900-xp-900-Polaris-Yamaha-NEW-/390426833750
Thank you... Yea, I see what I like in there, flood/spot VS hi/low; my bad... Running like $500 for what I would like to have though. I think that I'm going to have to go back to work to afford my toys again...:frustration:
Project alternator, is complete... ... Project alternator, is complete. Repair and relocate. Belt wrap improvement, overdrive for draw, and heat soak consideration. Thought I'd throw a few pics up. The Interceptor is now running 10 pulleys for three belts...:sly: Total cost, 200ish...and about 15 hours build time; it had to be done though... SN, also rerouted the lower coolant line with some Home Depot parts; had for 13 bucks. Better cooling, AND keeping it away from the alt to avoid burning the components again. Tomorrow, I will order a 6-rib Gatorback a 1/2" shorter than in the pics....done deal. Spring is on the way, and mods will start to get crazy. Guys must think I'm nutz...I don't do this stuff to "get somewhere"; I do it for the FUN of doing it... ...
10 pulleys lol.. and why does your truck have 2 A/C compressors ? kidding..waiting for the question though. What's your output now at idle and driving ?
... Well, we're discussing this. Dad says that we should test this Via the Battery-Tester; while the engine is @ idle, then @ highway. For those that don't know, this is like a toaster oven element (with battery jumper cables) that makes full draw at the push of a button. Hard though, to interpret the meaning of the gauge readings, under draw. I say it's voltage. Like 14.5V @ idle. Then load everything up; radio, lights on HI-beam, 4-ways...everything that can be on, is on @ idle...14.5V...and, anything adding to the draw... 12.9V...amps are over-drawn. AKA, overloaded... So, who cares. The amps that I need are provided. He's talking about potential. Like adding stuff, but you really can't tell for sure, until you actual add that stuff. AKA, light-bar, then, via the voltage...you're there, or you are not. 14.5V---12.9V. AMPs VS Voltage. 14.5V under ALL conditions? OR, drawn down to "battery-voltage" via the added components. You can't really say until you bolt the stuff on. That's what I say, anyway... Not a problem for now, it's just a discussion....a difference of opinion, of the minutia. The actual work, well, we just completed that... 75 amps...shhh... ...
Hey stupid question but looks like the alt is now running on the s/c belt right??? And I'm glad you got the problem fixed good to hear I should be getting mazie back this week. Or I better be. Need some welding done on a steering shaft and a mount welded in place for my next mod to be finished and man it's a tight fit. As long as its not a knee buster and works ill be happy. Sucks not being about to weld good enough to trust. Did u ever figure out what the part number was on the new alt. or was it just a rebuild of the old
Just a rebuild of the old running in the new location (-1") on the S/C 6-rib. Forgot about the water pump pulley...11 pulleys... P/S should be pretty sweet. If I follow you on that one, I'm just glad that I won't have to put in another PULLEY!
... Guess what; more power. Cu'z the S/C pulley electo-clutch wasn't getting all the power it needed, to lock-up. Via the alternator...12-VS-14V... Now, it is. The alternator mod; did that. The front and rear tranny sensors mod; did that. The coolant, via the new routing of the hoses...; did that. Did a bunch of stuff; call it new video, Soon to come...
How to test for an unwanted AMP draw... Parked the truck for 24hr, started right up... Parked the truck for 48hr, no start, no crank, and the battery was completely drained. Did a lot of mods of late, but the best, and proper way to test for this, is via an AMP draw; at the battery. Engine off, the truck is parked. Pull the NEG battery terminal. Run a 12V test-light, in between the NEG battery terminal, and the NEG battery terminal connector. Is the light BRIGHT? Just red? Or, nothing? BRIGHT, is a short. Do not use a "tester". You'll just fry it. Just red, or nothing? Then put a meter in there. AMP-meter, 10A max, 15 seconds MAX. One terminal to the NEG battery post, the other to the NEG battery connector. Series connection. Radio memory and display circut...0.002 AMPs. Mine though, was reading, 0.421 AMPs. All things being considered, I pulled the "control-plug" for the alternator. Reading, 0.001 AMPs. Then, plugged the alternator "control-plug" back in. Reading, 0.422 AMPs. Fubared diode in the alternator. Ten steps forward, eight steps back... There goes my $60 bucks; not to mention that, due to the Interceptor's engine mods, it's now 4hr to pull the alternator...:frustration: MFer... HOmmm, calm...breath in, then out. HOmmm, calm...
