... Didn't want to, had to... Still amazed with this stuff. Pushing as hard as I can at the center of the grill, I get about 3/8" deflection. Should be OK, just felt really bad doing it...
Grill seems to work OK, I decided to make a cover for it for water crossings and for fall/winter operations. Everything worked OK below 15deg C, but over that, everything got hot fast. Very very sensitive system. Engine heat and "ping" heat. Reworked the watermeth system. Repurposed the A/C idle-up controler, just like I said I would. It works perfect. I just plugged the "air" port. So, instead of OFF- A to "plugged" and B to "air"...ON- A to B. It's now OFF A to "plugged" and B to "plugged"...ON- A to B. Just in case you want to mess with that system...there are 3 vacuum connectors per control unit. Made a new wire harness with dual solenoid controller off the honeywell sensor. First, NC, powers the S/C clutch magnetic coil, the watermeth inline fluid switch (A/C controller), and the watermeth boostpump (just windshield washer pump, run through 2.5 Ohm resistor). Relay #2, set-up to run NC ground feed to O2 pick-up line. Decided to use the engine light to indicate boost condition. No engine light, no boost. Easier than setting up some LEDs. Works good. Maybe I'll take some picks of the fluid control lines, or get some interior video of the "boosting bar-bo-q light", ha..ha...
Did you know? The Suzuki already has a micro-switch on the throttle petal, set for the 95% position. After about two hours of tracing and messing with it, figured it out. A/C system cut-out, factory. I did not know this. With the A/C system On, flooring the truck will cause the A/C system to cut-out, and delay re-energizing for 7-seconds; if and when below the 95% setting. I was in there to set-up my own micro-switch for the secondary level water-meth injection. So, changed the whole system. I set the switch for 60% and ran an 8 pole relay to cut-out the A/C and turn on the injector pump. I also set-up the water-meth can and controller with a return line. For when the throttle position is above 60%, but the boost/vacuum condition is low. It just returns to the can. Avoiding overheating the injector motor by just having the line plugged. It's still keeping me interested...
... I was very surprised to see that sitting in there Fupa. Once I discovered that it was for a "cut-out", power conservation system... Suzuki Carry +1... I just keep plugging away at it. Just a few project pics to keep you guys up-to-date... The unit as removed, stock... Here is the stock mico-switch and pigtail... Custom pigtail with 8-pole relay; Matsushita, he, he... married to the stock micro-switch and mounting ...:sly: Dry mounted, and tested... Final mounting and final installation... Master injector-control-unit. The A/C idle-up controller, re-purposed... AND, here is the two gallon watermeth reservoir, the feed and return lines with inline-injector filter, and the main 12v drive resistor; reducing to 5ml/min... So now, factory throttle position mico-switch, re-set for the 60% throttle-open position. Above that: A/C system always cuts-out (clutch-opens), if turned on, and remains off, for a minimum of 7seconds. Stays off if throttle position stays above 60%. Once below; 7second delay. AND, injector pump always turns on above 60% throttle position. If under a "no-boost-condition"; fluid just returns to can. Below 60% throttle position, injector pump is off. As far as the boosting system, watermeth injection requirement goes. The main fluid controller is closed when the S/C clutch is open. No boost condition. Under boost. The S/C clutch is closed AND, the main fluid controller opens. If the throttle position is below 60%, then the fluid-feed-rate is under vacuum-feed only. About 1ml/min. If above 60% throttle position, then the injector motor is also on, and delivery rate is about 5ml/min. Seems more complicated to explain it, than to do it...:sly: Took it down the highway, works perfect. Nothing but BOOST...NO PING...@14deg BTDC...and 30degC... AND I'm spent, Don't be afraid to post-up here guys. I assure you that this thread is not "THE ART". The truck is "THE ART", and no one touches that but me... Do you think that I am crazy? Just focused? Or all-out retarded... If no one is going to comment, then I'll just discontinue the indepth progress information. Fupa and jonny are not considered, as they request information...often. The area fires are now "under control", and the local access roads are starting to open. I'll still comment on the general section thread requests but, maybe I'll just post-up "HERE", in the fall... Maybe we're done here... Greg, what happened to your spring build?...You know that I'm subscribed...no video yet??? ...
spaner no pix went throu just so u know and i vote u keep the info coming but i know i dont count but here is some popcorn for all your work so far op:
+1 on keeping it coming....it's prob. just a bit intimidating to many who read it (considering the # of views lots have read it). I will be the first to admit I sometimes have to read your technical posts a few times to understand them (not the way you write them, which is perfect ,but just to get the gist of how it all works) I surely would miss "the art" and watching it morph from banal to bestial. pics didn't load for me either
Friken stupid, time-out-bots, K-man, what's up with that???? Try it now with a cleared, driver history, Seems to load OK, Now... Thanks just the same guys... I really do try to load the info with a "NON" intimidating type of "this-is-what-it-is", type of direct and to the point information. I'm starting to think that some are just too intimidated to respond. Really, that's not what I want to have happen... Just comment, maybe I can help you out??? ....
maybe you can help them psh i know most you can. i think out of most the people on here u have prolly done the most work (with stock ish engine + sc and drive train) as anyone else if spaner cant answer most others can. what parts on the truck have u not taken apart and messed with yet spaner?? lol and i second fupa i also read and reread the post to make sure i know what you are saying that way if i try something like you did i will have it in my head (or way closer than if i didnt read) when i go to do it. you dont just fix the problem you figure out what made the problem in the first place and fix that to. TRUST ME anyone who is reading this and think their question is stupid i am sure i have asked spaner one that is way worse. thats the only way to learn is to ask when you dont know>
I had to skip the spring build. I missed out on the purchase of a couple trucks. That fell through. Still looking... (Think street truck, 2WD, Independent rear susp.) Summer build is in the works now. Lather large upgrade, nothing technical, mostly bolt-on. Depending on how it turns out determines on how much I move forward. I need some ideas for a throttle pedal, the stock one doesn't have enough throw. only 1.5" of travel to full throttle. too touchy. Build is looking great. I actually like the holes for the air flow. I enjoy the read, I don't really know anything about SC's or water meth injection so I can't comment on that. How are the cutting/locker brakes working for you? Cheers, Greg
I guess that what I was getting at is, posting very indepth information, post after post, with no comments or replies, has been getting me a little weirded out. If guys are finding it informative, entertaining or at all interesting, then I'll keep the thread going. I do what I do, I'm just not trying to turn the thread into a blog; all tell and no talk. AKA, it's getting boring. jonny, thanks for the popcorn. Hope you're going to get to that turbo build in the future. I'd like to read about that build. Fupa, thanks for the insight. I appreciate your clear thinking and the way your posts are persuasive. Greg, that's too bad, about missing out on that buy. I don't have a lot of experience when it comes to the suspension mods, and so look forward to reading about that stuff. The kind of components that go on with 3/4" bolts..ha, ha.. What's the summer's large mod? As far as the throttle pedal goes, the only way to do that, that I know of is to shorten the pull side and lengthen the push side and adjust the main mounting...higher. By cutting off the pedal mounting bushing, and welding it back on further back...drilling new hole...stock arm. You will be surprised at how much more throw a 1/4" fulcrum move will provide. If you look at mine above, dual arm, you would just move the connecting plate pin toward the pedal mounting. Not sure what you have. I'll check your thread. Cutting brakes, jamar unit, was the best mod I ever did. I never think about it, just use it. It's so versatile and does so many things well. I've done more than a few pavement donut burn-outs. No video though, I tend to vacate the scene as soon as possible...
OK, I see what you mean now Fupa. I've been monitoring the thread today and, about 60-hits. But. no comments... What's up with that.......disappointment.... So, is this a blog now? Confusing... Anyway, lots of stuff to do; always. Today, I finished off the performance correction mods...(temp-consideration...stuff), with the watermeth return line and routed the secondary level delivery line; above 60% throttle position. Just finalized with corrugated line coverings and heat-shrink connector covers. I really like how that all turned out; but it's done now, and finished... Then I decided to SMASH that stupid "glow-shift-boost" gauge. I have the "tinted" one, and can never read it during the day...smash or fix. So; Changed out the "tinted" face for a simple retail type box polycarbonate. Just the really thin stuff, but worked out OK (took about 15 minutes, really easy); just prised the briesel off and cut the replacement with scissors. Now, during the day, I can read it no problem. At night, now it's too bright for my camera though. In the "night-mode"; it dosen't like it. Also, I finished off the audio system; but you guys can't see, or hear that. I have a set of mini-speakers in the head rests...works not too bad. AND, you know that "tapes" never "skip", in the bush, ha, ha... Unfortunately, the now too bright custom gauges makes the camera fade so that I can't see the factory gauges. So much for the "night-drive" performances... I did go out tonight, during "shift-change", he, he and had a little run just to check out the camera in "night-mode". Very disappointing but, I ran it through a few compeating filters and can just barley make out what's going on. Let's take this thread hit rate into account: I had a running start @ 15kph, and started in second gear. Rotated that through 8TRPM, and did the same through the remaining gears. 3rd, 4rth, 5th...@ 8TRPM... What was the final speed, before spaner decided to "pull-the-plug"? Don't want to go to jail but, I'm sure that I could argue that in court... It's just all CG...Judge... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DyyhVqs2IU&list=UUR8qEIgZZFtk61IvD9ovwhg&index=1&feature=plcp BTW; the forum is getting worse. I now have to keep a "tab" up-to-date, and loaded with signature, every 60sec, in order to run a posting log with links that actually LOAD... WTFIUWT...
Me thinks he was doing around a buck thirty, officer...."we have a Hoon problem" ) Did you do a left and right in each headrest ? I have the same set-up in my Miata ... I think there is a Trojan in the Java scripting somewhere...my Avast antivirus flags every page on the forum since yesterday
The headrest speakers that I used came from a kind of laptop expansion kit. USB and booster battery pack. I got those because of the size. About 2" x 4" and 10w..I think, so I was looking for a good fit inside of the headrests and these are the kind with the full face plate as the speaker, no paper. Just one speaker per side, just crossed the channels at the speakers for both R and L. Had experience with that before. You can do it at the speaker, but not at the output, it will just short the driver due to resistance. BTW, upholstery work for the speaker fit...chainsaw ha, ha...
Hmm, haven't updated this in a while, I think that the offroad performance of the interceptor is just about where I want it now. Last week I was at an entrance road to one of my fishing spots and came across a Polaris Ranger 800XP, 2010 I think with 489 25s, stuck in the entrance beaver swamp hole. I pulled him back out, then went through it myself. After he got stuck again, I pulled him across to follow me into the lake. He looked like this......twice... I thought it would be a little inconsiderate to pull out the camera at that time as he was none too happy with his unit and cursed it a few times....Later in the afternoon, he stopped me on the lake to ask when I would be driving out... Yea, boyeee...take that; over-priced side-by-sides with no ac or radio...he..he.. Got a little bored with the video stuff, but I should be getting some next week. Maybe just do a "video-day", or something...That front slider is "mud-hole-magic", it is truly a front end toboggan...
look what i found but im not sure if i should get it its used and who knows if it realy does still spin http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMR500-SUPE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc8902905&vxp=mtr
ok so im going for it whats the worst that can happen i have to have it rebuilt hey its a 900 dollar super charger when new. they say its in working order and 100% good feedback so ill take that gamble with my ebay bucks it took off over 20 bucks so its ordered and should be on the way soon sometime the week after next i think if my math is right. now thats a good start to the project just a huge list of other stuff to get to make it work. thanks spaner ill let u all know if it is in good working order in a few weeks
if u mean the adapter piece yes i hope so any extra piping prolly not. ill be mad if the adapter is not there i might be able to use it but i wont know till the time comes
Yea, you could go either way, I mean hard-drive, with the piping, and BOV or, Like mine, custom clutch drive, with direct mount, and no BOV. I think that you'd end up with the same performance curve... Just look at Don's stuff...he's all direct drive with BOV...
yea stupid question time direct drive would be spinning all the time where urs kicks in just over idle right?
i got good news ups just stopped almost a week before i figured it would. yeap that means the s/c is in ill get some pictures on later and it does turn easy and smooth. i can feel a very little air movement turning it by hand slowly. so should be good ill test with a means of turning it faster this weekend
I got lots'o video, but not the final swamp hole performance that I wanted to get...MNR had me on the ropes at the time and I didn't think that it was appropriate to pull out the tri-pod whilst trying to get my butt outta there...but I digress... Lay the 500 on a clean flat bench and use a shop-vac and rag to spin her up to speed...watch those fingers...
ive turned it with a shop vac and a rag spins good i want to clean the outside off a little anything i need to watch out for if i take it all apart to make sure its all clean?
I don't recommend it, Pour the oil out into a small glass jar, inspect that with a strong light source, then put the oil back in... If the oil is a little grey, you may consider an oil wash-and-swap... If there are any particals in suspension...yes, tear-down. Clean tip, Seal the ports with duct tape, the silver stuff...remove pulley, with a puller, seal the shaft and end with the tape, then.. Sandblasting...he,he..
thanks thats a big help i have a pm im gona send ya later spaner to much to type and i dont want it in the open yet
Not a problem, We'll get you boosted-up, and then have the members buy-out the global supply of the AMR 500...he, he... op:
