Just bought a 92 Hijet. Have no info, manual, etc. Where can I get a manual, so i know how to do basic things? I'm already wanting to improve its "startability", as it is getting colder (it barely started the other morning when it was just above freezing). I'd like to drive it all winter if possible (in Missoula, MT). I have lots to learn, and lots of questions.
Welcome aboard.. First things first..on the Volvo forums we call it stage 1 (other places call it that as well but thats where I find it used most often)which means a Full check/and return to stock, of all normal tune up parts (plugs wires filters belts,hoses,linkages,) check this thread for basic parts info http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=4527 change all your fluids (use synthetic in transfer case tranny and differentials you wont be replacing those often so it's worth it to spend more on them) Check all your vacuum hoses (there are tons of em) and replace any that are cracked. SEAFOAM it!!! do it properly..there are many videos on youtube that show doinks doing it improperly,,watch those,laugh,then watch the proper way http://video.google.ca/videoplay?do...73&ei=lw_ASqTyLJDnlQfbuqDWBg&q=seafoam&hl=en# Lube all your cables and linkages,and bleed the brakes replacing the old fluid. You can try an Italian tune up...start it and rev the crap out of it until it begs for mercy and behaves NOT RECOMMENDED!!! last part is a joke don't do it
Can you believe some of the seafoaming vids on you tube??:frustration: No wonder some people say it doesn't work. honestly how hard is it to read the can ?..seems many just want a smoke show.If you want a smoke show dribble some diesel fuel down your carb when it's running (actually that will clean too) I guess some people assume the smoke is junk being burned from their engine..
I'd be worried about dumping liquid directly into the intake. If you do it too fast it could cause alot of damage to the engine.
ya..nub's with seafoam. lol all i do is put some in the gas tank and thats it! what are the km's on your new truck?
Hi, I hope that some of this may be helpful to others. I have had my '92 S83P Hijet for about 3 months now and have had trouble with warm/hot starting from the beginning. A few weeks ago it became hard to start when cold as well. It was also running hot at over 80kph, although it was fine below that. Fuel consumption was at best 40mpg (Imperial gallon) and often as low as 32mpg. This is with easy driving on pavement only. Turns out that it had major flooding problems. All plugs were wet when parked for a few days and gas was running back into the air intake. I checked the valve clearances, which were all within spec, put in a new set of plugs, checked that the choke was opening fully - it was - and finally today I put in a carb kit. I also set the ignition timing which was at 12 degrees btdc instead of the 7 degrees specified on the plate under the driver's seat. When I had the carb apart I found that it is an Arram 87B54, a make I've never heard of but it shows up on Google in connection with Toyota, but with no useful details. I'm not sure whether the 87B54 is a model # for the carb or a serial #. The mixture needle was quite badly grooved but the needle and seat looked ok. The new needle/seat in the kit has a small spring to help hold the needle up into the seat, which the old needle did not have. Maybe the flooding was a common issue and the spring is a retrofit intended to prevent the problem. The only other obvious problem in the carb was that the accelerator pump diaphragm was a lot stiffer than the new one in the kit and could have been letting fuel through when the engine was shut off. The first test run this afternoon showed the motor running cooler at 80+kph and starting easily both hot, warm and cold. I'll keep using the truck for a few days to see if the improvements remain before pulling a spark plug to see if there is any sign of flooding. The plugs I am using at the moment are NGK BPR6EY which are easily available and cheap. The correct NGK plug for this motor is the BPR5EKB but here in Canada they have to be ordered from Japan and cost about $18.00 each. Once I am sure that the plugs arn't getting regularly soaked any more I may install the correct plugs if the 6EYs don't seem to be working well. Sorry this is so long, but I think I made some progress today that may help others. Rob from the GWN
I just did a carb. kit on a Suz. WOW, what a difference. It barks the tires in 2nd gear. I think the springs in the carb. kit have a lot to do with things as well. Over 15 yrs of fuel going past a needle valve it has to wear some. As for the plugs on daihatsu's and suz. I cross them to a champion and havnt had a problem with them in 4 yrs. Ive changed plugs in a bunch of trucks. The champs only have one stinger on the electro, seems that it doesnt really make a difference. Those high dollar plugs are over rated in my book. Now if we were pushing a couple hundred HP then I might spend the extra $ for juiced up plugs.
Rob, First, Thanks for your post and never apologize for the size of your posts. Good info is good info the more the better. You stated in your post that you are using NGKBPR6EY plugs and your truck calls for NGKBPR5EKB. So you are using plugs that are one heat range colder than what is called for. I don't know how "picky" your truck is to the plug heat range but that could be contributing to the flooding/gas fouling of your plugs. You might try and get a NGKBPR(5)EY at least that puts you in the proper heat range. Just a thought........later, slim
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I suspect you are both right about the plugs. I got the expensive EKBs to eliminate improper plugs as a cause of problems but when the motor started soaking them I switched to the cheap EYs because I have heard tell that once wetted, plugs will never work as well again. As for heat range, I got 6 because that was available and I needed them. If it turns out that the carb kit and timing adjustment really have sorted out the motor issues I will put in a set of BPR5EYs and compare performance with the fancy BPR5EKBs. One other issue I forgot to mention in my last post was that the motor would sometimes diesel on after being shut off. I figure that could have been a combination of too much fuel and timing too far advanced so hopefully that is cured now. The little truck really wants to work, you can tell, its just a matter of getting it set up right. But you say I'm not getting 200hp? Bummer - I was planning on trying a pull-off with my 350/4barll/4/11 '77 GMC plow truck. Oh weeelll! Rob.
A few thoughts after watching that video (Im sorry im so critical of this stuff, so many people in here swear by it). 1. Ive never used this stuff so what do i know. 2. Dumping enough "seafoam" in the carb to make the engine stall seems asinine (somthing about vapor lock jumps out at me). 3. Putting in the crank case sounds flat out worng (thats where my oil goes!). 4. Putting it in the gas tank seems to make the most sense. 5. By virtue of the fact that they show videos of someone dumping it in about every orifice a car has to offer then whirling houndreds of miricle cures at you in the back ground just screams ripoff scam to me. If i happened across that video with out any 3rd party endorsement or anecdotal evidence of it working, would quickly cast it aside as snake oil.
Here's an interesting writeup about Seafoam: http://yotatech.com/f105/sea-foam-do-you-want-truth-160613/ I'll do a test this spring with my motorcycle...
We used Marvel Mystic oil for yrs. on V-12 and V-16 EMD's (locomotive engines) hooked up to mud pumps and generators on off shore drilling rigs. The inside of the engines stayed clean. We'd change the oil and oil filters(250 gals.) and pour in 5 gals. of Marvel. I think in the mid to late 80's we started using Amsoil Foam to help clean out motorcycle carbs. Around the mid 90's we started using sea foam. I'll bet my eye teeth that all 3 of these products work. I am walking living proof. If you have a slight idle problem with a gas engine these things will work bottom line. You have to give it a little time sometimes. It wont hurt anything. Follow the direction and you wont have any problems. On some carbs. that are gummed up enough you have only one option, a rebuild kit. Doesnt matter how much of the snake oil you use it wont help. But again if its just a little gummed up chances are good it will help. I use it in all my equipment and my retail mini trucks.
I am now trying Seafoam for the first time after that little fuel problem I had. I put in ½ can into the fuel tank and filled with premium. I've only run of about a quarter tank, but, it seems to feel a bit peppier, perhaps it's just my imagination. I'll wait until I run this tank out and fill up again with the other ½ can of Seafoam and give it a chance to really degum the works. Maybe my gas milage will go up too! How, often do you have to do this?
That'a the 100.00 question. Own my 5.9 diesel I run a can about every 4 or 5 fill ups. These mini trucks I treat every new/used truck that comes into inventory. I tell my buyers a can every 6 months there about. Most of my guys are ranchers so they are in the pasture most of the time. But yea a can every 6 month. Split it up over 3 or 4 fill ups wait 6 months and do it again.
Well all that info is definitely a boost of confidence. I think ill give it a try (not that im really having any problems) but i bought a 93 and 17 years of who knows what... I think a clean out is in order. Has anyone actually put it in the crank case w/ the oil? I would think an oil change would be in order afterward. I have the guts to try it in the carb and in the gas tank, but the crank case! I think im too chicken for that one. Thanks for the detail TRAX AND HORNS and others.
I think I'd rather run some good, lightweight diesel oil to clean out the internals of the engine rather than run the Seafoam. I can see where the fuel system needs it, but ....
