First, a shoutout to FIRST GLOBAL IMPORT & EXPORT INC for allowing me to keep the wrong tierods I ordered last year and refunding me the money. The tierods for a Suzuki Every are different from the ones for the truck. As you will see from the photos, the van tierods are much longer. Van tierod on top, new truck tierod on the bottom. This thread is about sourcing tierods that you can use for the 9th gen Every vans which come from RockAuto for very reasonable costs compared to buying OEM replacements from overseas to the tune of $200.00+ for a set of inner and outer tierod ends. The tierod ends at RockAuto usually costs around $5 and the shipping would be more than the parts if you are not careful. Knowing the basic dimensions of the existing tierod you can search sources like the Moog website to find something that will fit. For the van it needed to be a M14x1.5 male rod end and the other important dimension was a length of 4in or even a bit longer. Also the conical dimensions where the tierod stud mates to the connection on the axle or yoke which is approximately 0.496in on the top to 0.566in on the bottom. I used this link on the Moog site: https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_outer_tie_rod_ends.asp. They have a nice filter setup to indicate these dimensions. I just put in M14 and Male and saw a page of tierods. I scrolled down to the longer ones and settled on this one: Thats MOOG part number moog-es3145l. I then plugged that part number into RockAuto as a MOOG steering part with the number es3145L like so: I see its for a number of Mercedes, so I picked the 87-93 300D and ordered 2 of the longer front inner tierods. I could have ordered the outer ones but had the new truck ones First Global so generously allowed me to keep. One thing to note is the stud on the Merc part is an M10 and not an M12 like on the Suzuki OEMs. Not a big deal and a washer was used to fill the gap. Heres a pic comparing the old and new tierods. The plan was to use the longer Merc tierod with the shorter new OEM ones to get the same length tierod. You can see the small washer I added to the Merc tierod. I estimated that the longer Merc tierod would thread in for enough to be a viable connection with the rod and allow the shorter truck tierod end to work. So I put them together and heres the drivers right tierod with new ends next to the left tierod as removed from the van. The parts I ordered from RockAuto were the 2 Merecedes 300D front inner tierods ULTRA-POWER ES3145L They cost as much to ship as the cost of the parts, so ~$24.00 to my door. I also added a small washer to the Merc tierods to the smaller stud would evenly tighten down on the tierod mount. So there you have it. Tierods new for the vans for well under $50.00 and at your door in 3 days compared to $200.00+ on ebay and waiting 3 weeks for it to come in.
The mini truck version of Teach A Man To Fish: Give a man a fish - Post locally sourced part numbers for JDM vehicles. Teach a man to fish - Show the process to domestically source compatible parts for JDM vehicles. Over a month later, I'm STILL waiting for clutch parts for my Hijet mini truck. I bought the clutch kit on Amazon for $240. Pricey, but easy to order and I had it in two days. The kit consisted of the clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I wanted to do the job right and replace the rear main oil seal on the engine and the pilot bearing. Both are very cheap parts but aren't available locally without finding compatible parts, so I decided to get them from Japan, from Impex Japan. I decided to order the original equipment clutch parts as well rather than use the good aftermarket parts that I bought from Amazon. I placed the order for genuine Daihatsu parts and paid for the parts. A week later, I got a message saying some of the Daihatsu parts are no longer in production. I created a second order with aftermarket replacement parts so the orders can be combined into a single shipment (probably $70 in shipping). I'm still waiting for the Aisin clutch disk to arrive at Impex. Meanwhile, my original order was placed so long ago that they're now charging me a few dollars in storage fees, and my Hijet has been parked for a month and a half waiting for parts. I wish I'd tried harder to source the rear main seal and pilot bearing locally. They're probably available if I knew what to order. So far, my experience ordering parts from Japan has been expensive, time consuming and a lot of hassle.
This is why I'm posting this up. It's tedious and can swallow hours of your time but the money saved is worth it for me.
Invest in a digital caliper that can convert between millimeters and inches. I have a cheapie plastic one from Harbor Freight that works just fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-composite-digital-caliper-63586.html
When I'm doing engineering, I use the Mitutoyo digital calipers in my desk drawer. At the ammo reloading bench, I use Chinese digital calipers from Amazon. In the basement machine shop, I use Mitutoyo dial calipers. I have $14 dial calipers in my toolbox. I was working on a guy's CNC milling machine and noticed a caliper shaped hole in the drywall in his shop. I wasn't going to ask but he saw me looking at the hole and he volunteered that he had digital calipers that gave him a wrong reading that caused him to scrap an expensive part he was making.
@KCCats No not at all the outer is too short and the inner is not even remotely compatible. The vans require longer tierod ends than the carry trucks. You could use the inner and outer tierod ends for the Merc 300D but I happened to have a set of carry truck ends so used one of those instead for each rod and used the Merc 300D tierod end for the outers.
I have a 91 DB51 and just put a 95 DD51 drive train under it Both tie rod ends inter change, long and short left hand thread and right They look the same as my EZGO
What does "two sets" mean? 4 tierod ends or 8. To me a set would be 4 (2 inner and 2 outer). Using the 300D tierods from RockAuto it would be about $29.00 with shipping I think.
Ok, it's your truck, I just thought folks would want to know theres alternatives out there that are much cheaper and will work fine.
Details please. What brand is that part number for? Not familiar with Orion Auto Parts, is it a retail place or what?
Ok I see an Orion branded part in the phillipines for $399.00. So share with us how you got them for $25.00 and where? Thats a good price. Orion is not in the rockauto catalog as a parts supplier so makes sense I can't find it there.
Same Guy I got my lower control arms from Probably a few other things gussyclassicautojdm is the Ebay seller
The one on the right, that big bushing gets loose and causes most of the death wobble. Its a pain to press out and back in without a real press.
ok cook that's what i ordered. thanks.. fixed that issue with the distributor on my van from a few months back turned out to be the computer took a crap.
Do us and yourself a favor and add the make/model/year of your vehicle in your signature. Glad you got it sorted.
I had Camber issues as well! My lift fixed it The strut was too straight up and down Needed to lean back at the top a few degrees Oh and I also have a damper ( shock) I have not had to use But now that all is good I will put it back on I
