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So I'm a Subaru owner....

Discussion in 'Microvans' started by Krieger-san, Aug 27, 2011.

  1. paulhills

    paulhills New Member

    hi Krieger, im afraid i am not sure what you mean by shims?.. but here is a pic of the starter
    starter motor.jpg

    and i think it just bolts in at the top and has a nut and washer holding it in place at the bottom.

    regarding the relay,. it looks like something someone has added (i cant see subaru putting a relay in that position, and there is not relay or whole for a relay in my van). does your van have added fog lights? or maybe it is to do with your push button ignition? does that still work now the wires have come off the relay?
     
  2. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Couldn't stop thinking about that damn relay and I went and checked to see where the wires go. I pulled the floor mat out and followed the wire down throgh the floor panel and it's going to the fog lamps. Yeah. Will have that checked by someone who knows what's what. I will supply the parts.
    The van had fog lamps on it, but I took them off because the lenses were cracked and the entire system was corroded. Pretty sure they didn't worked.
    I will buy a new pair of fog lamps.
    The lamps themselves looked aftermarket, but the switch looks original. I think I should call the previous owner again and ask him.
    The thing is, I did saw something that would look like that black relay that I'm talking about in the repair manual, but I could not find the purpose for it.
    Google Translate knows less German than I do.

    Now, about the shims. I must admit I didn't even knew that such a thing exist before I watched an EricTheCarGuy video on YT. Unfortunately, I saw the video AFTER I took my starter off.
    The shims are supposed to be some thin metal plates which, from my understanding, you must sandwich between the engine block and the starter before you bolt the starter down. That is supposed to tilt the whole unit enough to properly align it to the engine gear ring.
    Certain starters require shims to be aligned and the lack of those shims causes grinding noise(which I experienced since I put my starter back on). Now, this could also may be a slight misalignment that could be fixed just by being more careful when I install it, or it may very well be caused by improper cranking due to low current that in term was caused by the crappy power lines(which I eliminated).
    I tend to get freaky and start worrying too much. That's why I keep on asking...... just to make sure. I really don't want to do any damage to my van and I get scared too easy when I mess things up. I'm really anxious to put the battery box and cables back on the car and then try to crank it.
    Will brush some more layers of paint on those bits tomorrow at the ranch and I'll install them on Sunday if the weather allows me to do so.
    Hopefully, the new battery cables and the soldering on the broken wires will fix my cranking problems and I hope the oil pressure light will go on again.
    Also, I really hope that the installation of the CD player will be a success. Kind of a long story on that one too, to make it short I just have to salvage a piece of wire from my XR4Ti, make a ground wire, solder it and the + wire that was originally on the car's stereo to the power input plug on the CD player and then solder the speaker wires to their respective plug :) .
    Wish me luck!
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2012
  3. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I took the starter off again today and took a peak at the ring gear. Sadly, some of the teeth on the ring gear are damaged. I don't know, at least the ones that I could see through the hole, hopefully not all of them. This really sucks.
    I had my brother press the clutch pedal and I was able to see movement on the clutch components through the starter hole. I don't know if that's good news or bad. I will make a short video. I do have some pics of the teeth, but they are not very good since it was kinda' hard to set the focus right for such a tight space.
    I will try to be more careful when installing the starter tomorrow. Will try and guide it a bit further away from the ring gear. I'm thinking that if I keep it pulled back towards the back of the car and have someone else tighten the bolts, maybe it will align better.
    I also noticed something I didn't noticed before. The plug on the fuel flow solenoid on the carb(red arrow: http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/5479/carburateurspruitst.jpg ) is broken. The plastic on the "mother" side is there, but the one on the "father" side is missing and the contacts are exposed. Will buy a new plug tomorrow from the auto-market and install it properly. Hope that it will be an improvement. Also, thanks Paulhills for pointing that out in your thread.
    Also, I will get the parts that I painted at the ranch back home. Not sure if they are fully dried off, but I will try and install them or leave them inside to dry(outside is really really cold, that's why they are not done).
    Now, about the starter and oil light not working when I tried to test them, I've been doing some thinking and it may have been a bad ground situation. Hopefully it will work tomorrow when I'll install it for good. In my logic, it would make sense because the starter has a ground on the engine(contact and bolted down), so does the oil pressure switch. If I made a bad ground with the starter(let's say that I put the jump cample on a dirty area and there was no good contact), the circuit might be open. I don't know, it's just a guess... just something to help me sleep at night.
    Now is time for me to go. Check with you guys tomorrow evening.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Yeah, I put the battery back on, installed the starter. I kept it pulled back as I tightened the bolts down. I soldered the ignition wire back its position, but unfortunately, I was not able to cover it in heat shrink tube, but in electrical tape.
    I had a good friend of mine do all the wiring(electronics freak, studies that in college so yeah... good help). He said he put a piece of rubber insulation over the bonded area so the glue from the electrical tape doesn't mess the contact up(again).
    I must say, the starter works really good. No click, no clack, starts off fine. The thing is... some times, when I release the ignition button, it does a very short grinding noise. That kinda' bugs me.
    Also, the clutch looks like it's permanently engaged. I don't know.... will have to look into that. I don't quite saw it happen, but this friend of mine said
    Tomorrow, if all go well and the rain stops for a few hours before lunch time, I'll go take a look down in the auto-market and buy a set of plugs(ass seen in the pic from my last post) for that fuel valve solenoid thing.
    We had a really hard time soldering wires, especially those inside the engine compartment. They were nasty and corroded. We also pulled the wire loom back under the slam panel, but I have to add a piece to one wire going on the intake manifold so it will clear well.
    We also tried to fix up the music system, we did all the wiring, but a crappy wired power input ended up in a short on the CD player ground so we might've killed it. This good friend of mine took it home, took it apart and said that there are signs indicating that somewhere in the past someone did the same mistake and fixed it. We'll see. If it works, it works, if not.... I'll buy a replacement unit.
    Oil pressure bulb still doesn't work. I think it may be burnt. Will check that as well.
    Good luck, everybody! Will keep you posted.
     
  5. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Short view through starter hole video:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr0lJZki8cI .
    Short crank test video:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsqQMwbG0qo&feature=youtu.be .

    The starter runs great. First time every time. Also, no grinding noise or anything. In case you're wondering, the engine doesn't start because I took out the fuel pump/ignition coil fuse.
    Oil pressure light won't go on. I will take the dash apart and try to see if the bulb is burned out.
    We also re-soldered the broken 4WD/2WD electro-valve wires back together and sealed the joint. Weirdly enough, now I can't hear the click I used to hear coming from somewhere deep down when I push the 4WD button with the ignition on. That's scary.
    The wires are set in the right position(I filmed their correct position before they broke off). I checked with the voltmeter and I get constant 2.something V on the pins. No changes when the button is pushed.
    The stereo works. We finally made it run. I had to have 2 + wires(one from battery and one from the ignition) and one -. Because I want the stereo to work with or without the ignition key on, we only installed one battery + so it didn't worked. We jumped another wire from the battery to the ignition + pin on the connector and it worked. Unfortunately, the speakers that I installed(brand-freaking-new) can't handle the bass coming from the radio, so I think I'm gonna have to replace them with the old ones(if I can find them). We'll see how those work.
    Anyways, good luck with your little vans, guys!
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2012
  6. sigkrist

    sigkrist New Member

    HI
    Sorry have been busy installing the 97 engine, The shims on my starter were betwen starter and gearbox, guess to make it fit right as it was not a orginal starter. I put in orginall starter with the ยด97 engine and no shims. works great.. I am still having trouble with the wiring as seen on this photo. but i will get there some day.
    Hope you get yours up and running soon.
    wiring.jpg
     
  7. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Whoa..... dude, that's a lot of work you've got there. It's a lot of work, but you shouldn't give up. The transplant IS possible. I know it. I've seen it happen. I saw a 1992 Libero identical to mine, only in tip top condition for sale on a website and it had the FA engine installed.
    My Libero needs a lot of work. I managed to find the speakers that it had when I bought it, I tested them and they sound better so I'll use those two.
    I'm very curious of why the car moves when I crank it without holding the clutch pedal down even when it's not in gear. The starter runs great. Sometimes it makes a tiny little grinding noise when I disengage it, but it doesn't look serious. I think the teeth on the ring gear are chipped in one tiny spot and every time the bendix engages or disengages on that portion, it make a little grinding noise. Otherwise it runs really smooth.
    It looks like it stopped raining so I'll go out with my camera and make a little video.
    Good luck with your wires. Please post more photos and videos. The YT awaits. It desires more Subaru Libero videos.
    Have a good day!
     
  8. sigkrist

    sigkrist New Member

    Hi guys. My SmurfBus fired of yesterday and sounds great. got a problem with leaking fuel pump, tiny tiny rust holes in it, so i have to find another before i do more test runs, and checks. Thks a lot for you help guys, i would newer have got so far with out you..

    Sigkrist
     
  9. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Congratulations on your big achievement!
    I think you may be able to TEMPORARILY fix the rust holes in the fuel pump with some polyester fiber glass body filler. As far as I remember, that was immune to gas. I don't know, try it out on something else first. Hopefully, it will hold until you find a new pump.
    Also, I can't stress enough the need for videos :) . I would really like to see how your van runs.

    Now, my van. Got the right side quarter panel backing out to see the fuel separator. All seems to be in order there. No broken tubes. The broken lines are outside in the engine compartment and going to some sort of a canister thing in front of the rear wheel on the passenger side. I made a little video to show you guys.
    We also figured out the handbrake problem. It appears that the van has 2 cables(possibly 3, 1 from the lever and 1 for each rear wheel) : one from the handbrake lever(longitudinal) and one connecting both rear wheels(transversal) . The one connecting the wheels is pulled by the one from the lever. On my van, the one going to the wheels is broken. Will place an order for a new part as soon as possible.
    I'm also on the lookout for info on how to install the seat belts. Anyone who can help me with some pics, that would be really sweet.
    Thanks a lot and again, congratulations on your success!
     
  10. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

  11. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I talked over the phone with that awesome engineer man that I know and he said that he'd strip and clean my carb, but I have to take it out myself.
    This is my task for today. That and, probably/hopefully, removing the broken piece of handbrake cable that is still attached to the left rear wheel.
    Wish me luck.
    PS: We bought a pair of kick ass 3 ton jack stands and a lot of spray paint. I sprayed my brother's windshield wipers in satin black and I'll do mine today. Gave them a few coats of primer last night, today is time to make them BLAAAAAACK.
     
  12. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Alright. I'll make this one quick:
    Carburetor: off. Will send to that engineer man dude to take it apart and clean it. Vacuum lines all labeled and with a video on how to put them back made. I do have like 3 or 4 lines that I don't know where to connect.
    Windscreen wipers: painted black. MAAAAAAD.
    Troublesome speaker: fixed by an good friend of mine, mounted on the car, sounds great.

    Broken left side handbrake cable is still on the car. I can't get the drums out. Is there a trick that I should use? I tried hammering them, I tried PB blaster, I've tried unscrewing the small screw with the allen key head from the back of the assembly. Now it won't go back on.
    Anyways, I need advice. I called the last owner and he said that I have to pop open the big 30-something mm nut on the end of the drive shaft. He said that thisi is how he remembers.
    Personally, I never heard of such thing. I've worked with drum brakes before(hell, even today , on another car) and I never heard of this. To remove the drive shaft nut in order to remove the drum.
    Is it true? Have you guys ever done this before? How do you guys remove the drums on your Liberos?
    Please, help me. I have to remove that bastard tomorrow in order to get the broken piece of handbrake cable out. Thanks!
     
  13. sigkrist

    sigkrist New Member

    HI
    Great you are making good progress on the car.. and sound like you are doing a great good djob on it to.
    Wish i had your patience.
    To the brakes. I had to take the shaft nut of to change my brake shoes.. so i guess its the same with your car.
    here is pict of the system from my manual to check if we are talking about the same thing, I had to take "T2" of to losen. the brakedrum and center are one pice, this is not common things but i now few cars that use this system like some Daihatsu, Chrysler Voyager and few more,
    hope this will help
    E12-brake-drum-rear.JPG
     
  14. nightmarezr

    nightmarezr New Member

    Hello to everyone. I have the same van like Krieger-san and have one problem. I need to know, how much water fits in this van.
     
  15. sigkrist

    sigkrist New Member

    Hi. Acording to my manual its 6,5l and 7,3 with rear heater..
    that should be with all empty system.
     
  16. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I found a man who had 2 Liberos(newer, fuel injected models) and he told me that the cooling system needs 2 liters of water. This is exactly how much I put in mine and it works. I can't see anything in that plastic reservoir, but it seems to work. I will have a look in the German repair manual.
    Right, the brakes. I followed the advice of the last owner and I took that center hub nut out.
    Get this: To get the nut off I had to buy a communist made 30mm socket(made from old soviet tanks), I levered with a big crowbar(also made from old soviet tanks), I had the car into gear, the brake pedal fully stumped on and two people standing in the trunk while a third guy pulled the crowbar-socket assembly. That thing was seriously stuck in there. As soon as that came off, the drum literally went off all by itself.
    To be honest, I kinda' like the system. It's a bit weird with the big nut thing, but after you get that out of the way, it's smooth sailing. You don't have to pry the drum out with screwdrivers like I did the first time I removed the drums from my XR4Ti. It's definitely a gazillion times easier than the system used on BMW with disk brake/drum brake assembly. We worked on one of those today as well and it took us a few hours even to get the old cables out. Mine took 5 minutes tops.
    Also, we inspected the condition and functionality of the brake cylinder(10/10) and brake shoes(10/10). A bit of brake cleaner to clear the dust, a bit of wire brushing and it was ready to go. Now all I have to do is to place an order for the new cable. I think I'll do it tomorrow. The inside of the drum wasn't bad either. Some slight wear lines, but nothing serious. No big wear line.
    Now, something not so good. I don't know how, I don't know why, but the CV boot on the rear passenger side wheel committed suicide. We'll have to replace that ASAP. I have the replacement parts, brand new from the last owner. Maybe he new something. I'm sure we'll have a lot of fun replacing them as well. I'm thinking that, since we're at it, to replace both CV boots(left and right). I don't know. We'll see.
    Thanks a lot for the advice and good work on your projects, guys!
     
  17. nightmarezr

    nightmarezr New Member

    Thank u wery much guys. :)
     
  18. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Last edited: Jun 11, 2012
  19. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    So I started to work on my broken rear CV boot yesterday. Real messy job, I don't wish this to anyone.
    Take za' hammer, pound the axle shaft out of it's socket. It doesn't want to come out. Only by a few mm. So I decide to take the entire suspension control arm out. In order to do that, I have to take out the brake line. Of course, the nuts on that are frozen. After a few minutes of trying to remove those peacefully(and not succeeding), I decided to cut the brake line so I can use a 10mm socket. It's old, it's rusty, whatever... I can always make a new one from a brake line off me old Ford. Cut that out, got the strut bolt out and got enough slack to take the axle out of the socket in order to take the joint off so I can install a new rubber boot. I've cleared the old grease(mostly while trying to fish out the old axle C-clip from inside the joint), put new grease in(nasty stuff, really... I hope I never have to do this ever again in my life), I put the C-clip back in it's respective groove at the end of the shaft, aligned the splines and we started to pound that sucker back in. I THINK we got it right. The joint went up all the way. My only paranoia concern is that the C-clip would've missed getting into the joint(where we fished it out from). I do remember pushing the ends with a screwdriver, but I'm not sure if it went in all the way. I couldn't quite see really well because all the grease).
    The joint went all the way in, it went quite easy and it looked pretty solid, but I'm afraid that if I messed this up, the wheel may fall off. Am I crazy?
    Let's go past that. We put the rubber boot on, I secured with the clamps(which where really easy to mend) and now we can't get the axle back on its socket. We have to take out the lower control arm and of course a couple of bolts refuse to obey my orders. I tried beating them with a hammer, I've tried penetrating oil, sockets, wrenches, breaker bars, etc. Nothing works. Until I get that done, I can't move my van.
    So yeah, that's my mission, guys. Wish me luck. A short YT video will follow.
    Good day!
    Also, we've got another problem. I had a mate of mine pound the axle while I "steer" it from underneath the van. I specifically told him to put the nut on a couple of threads and pound on the nut, never on the axle itself and he didn't do that. The result.... he bent the threads. Now I can't get my locking nut on.
    I'll have to get a thread stripping tool from the ranch(I measured last night, it's 19mm) and try to fix that.
     
  20. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I replaced the CV boot, I've installed the drive shaft back on the car(it was really easy after I removed it from the gearbox) and I fixed the thread for the central locking nut. It was quite hard to do it because I couldn't find a 19mm threading tool. I had to use a small triangular file for the threads, a big one for the edge and a 19 mm nut. It took me a few hours and a new locking nut that I got for free from a really nice old man from the auto shop down the road, but I did it.
    I tried to install the headlamps back on the van today, they look much better with the frames painted BLAAACK.
    I do have a problem with them. Every time I put the high beam on and switch on the turn lights, all the outside bulbs on the car start blinking, along with the inside dash illumination. What the hell is that? It didn't do this before.
    I must mention that it only happens when the lights on the passenger side are connected. Also, the small white position bulb next to the passenger side turn signal doesn't work. I took the bulb out, took a really good look at it and the filament is not broken. I will replace that bulb, but the erratic blinking scares me. It sounds like a short somewhere. Have any of you guys ever faced this problem?
    Also must mention that I cleaned the plugs for the bulbs with electrical contact spray. A lot of intergalactic crud came out of them.
    I really need advice on this one, I'm not an electrics guy. Thanks!
     

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