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So I'm a Subaru owner....

Discussion in 'Microvans' started by Krieger-san, Aug 27, 2011.

  1. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Alright, so it's been about 200 years since my last post, so I shall make one right now :) .


    First of all, I've got the window from sashusambar installed. Really completes the car, it looks much much better without that duct tape there. Still haven't cleaned all the duct tape on the car, anyone who's ever tried to peel some of metal would know what I mean.

    I had all the filters replaced. Two fuel filters, one air filter. Also replaced some of the fuel rubber lines, secured the junctions with new braces. Bought new battery( http://www.zap.pl/UserFiles/Image/45Ah-wwwzappl.jpg ) and made booster cables from old booster cable clamps and old heavy duty welding unit copper cable.

    Put some gas in(also bought a really kick ass communist made gas canister), fired up the engine.
    Engine runs rather well as long as current is provided by another car. Battery warning light is on, multimeter alternator test indicates no charge. As a result, I spent the day yesterday taking the alternator off the car.
    Will be rebuilt. Will try to rebuild it with my dad, since it will be cheaper. Trying to find replacement rectifier bridge(most likely to be the culprit m'here, will be tested) as we speak. Will also inspect and clean the other parts of the alternator, maybe spray the housing with some zinc spray paint. If not possible, I'll send it to a specialized company.

    Another problem my van has is the carburetor. It won't idle correctly and it won't close choke. Vacuum lines are messed up, loose lines and, according to the engineer who inspected it, missing choke plate spring and really dirty. Must be taken apart and cleaned with Decarburol.
    Apart from this, the engine runs fine. A bit smoky(and stinky IMHO), but I think it's normal after all that time sitting and with badly adjusted carburetor.

    Didn't had the time to check all the electrics. Made a mistake yesterday, I tried to take the negative terminal wire off the van to clean and re-solder and I broke the bolt that attached it to the body. Used penetrating oil, had it spinning for two or three socket turns, but on the forth one, it broke. Will bring a drilling machine from the countryside next weekend and drill the thing right out of there. Just to be sure, there is nothing else I can damage there, the bolt is just screwed into the van body, right?
    Just had an idea, I should pop the whole battery holder off the van, clean it and paint it with thick insulating paint :D . Must makeshift a new plastic battery tray as well. Will probably build one from an old TV casing.

    Will change the oil and oil filter soon. The oil that's in the engine at the time is light brown in color, but it's been in there for 5 or so years so I don't think it's all that good.

    Still haven't fixed my handbrake problem, still looking for pics or reference on how it should be. I'll bring my dad into this, maybe he'll have a solution. He always has.
    Also in the lookout for some steel rims for a winter set. Anyone got some ideas? I mean, would it be a problem if the cb hole on the wheel is bigger than 59mm? Hmmmmmm?
    Another problem I have, the radiator flush screw is locked in tight. It's a hex type head, somewhat striped. Last owner warned me about this. I tried giving it a few hammer blows, I tried penetrating oil, I'll try heating it up with a candle or something. Mind you, it's rather cold outside(5-6-10degrees Centigrade, even less at night). Must put antifreeze in. Got a liter of glico-something antifreeze that's supposed to hold up to -35 degrees Centigrade when mixed with distilled water in 50/50 ratio.

    Anyways, I'm off now, must re-solder that terminal cable and must go buy the things I need for the carb cleaning and for the alternator rebuild. Waiting for replies.
    Cheers!
     
  2. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    sounds like you're getting a lot done...the ground bolt should just be into the body..drilling it out should hurt nothing unless something is close enough behind to get drilled.....keep up the good work:pop:
     
  3. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Thanks!
    I bought a bottle of carb cleaner(Decarburol) today and one can of penetrating oil(kind of running out).

    In about 3 hours, I'm buying a set of steel rims( http://piese-auto.anunturi-auto.4tu...et-4-jante-table-iarna-4x100r13-10626256.html) to be used for summer. Will use the ones I have for winter since the ones I'm buying tonight seem to be better looking :p .

    Only thing I'm not 100% certain, the wheels that I'm about to buy have ET 39. I read on this forum that the Libero wheels have ET45. I don't think it would matter. The guy is gonna test fit one before I'm buying them, so, I should be good :) .

    Will keep you guys posted.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2011
  4. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I bought that set of used 13" VW steel rims. Imported from Germany, nice and straight, little to no rust, in almost mint condition.
    As I expected, they're not fitting 100%, the cb hole must have about 2mm machined off. Apart from that, they are awesome. ET(38mm) seems to clear the calipers and the shock flange just fine(measured by eye).
    A little mark here and there, but they look really fine for the price I payed for them(around 100$ in equivalent, including the price of the machining). I actually intended to buy rims to make a winter set, but, since these are much nicer than the originals, I will use them for summer and use the originals for winter. Probably some wider tires, that should work out fine, just fine. Give the van some cool looks and a wee bit more stability :D .
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2011
  5. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Hello again!

    It's been a while since my last post(again), lots have happened(again) and I feel like posting(again).

    Since the last time I wrote here, I've encountered a guy who is breaking down a 1992 Subaru Libero and I bought some parts from him. Guy is from Romania, found him on the web. Only problem is that he's from a remote part of the country, somewhere near the Danube. That's a problem because I would've liked to buy his van and it needs to be shipped over, adding extra costs.
    So I call this guy, I arrange to buy the alternator and carburetor off his van. He sold them to me with the equivalent of 100$, waaaaay cheaper than the cost of a alternator rebuild. He claims that they are complete and working, but that is to be checked.
    Carb and alternator all dirty and grimy, but look complete(to my square eye). I posted pics on my flickr( http://www.flickr.com/photos/12052190@N04/sets/72157627347666359/ ). Cleaned the alternator, dab of paint on it, it's going on the car today.
    Wish me luck! Be back with updates tonight.
    Cheers!
     
  6. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Also, installed the newly soldered negative lead in the battery compartment, put the battery on and checked the lights.
    Apart from the horn and one rear brake light, everything seems to work. Even the 4WD button seems to work. If I push it, I can hear a click sound somewhere deep down in the front of the car(perhaps that's the electro-valve), but since I did that with the engine off(starter only works with power from another car), the 4WD indicator in the dash won't light.
    Electrics need to be mended.
     
  7. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Active Member Staff Member

    that click would be the vacuum switch. good to hear that works!
     
  8. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Hear me out, people.

    I had some free time and nice weather today so I decided to install the replacement alternator on the van.
    Popped it in, took some pics, tried to make sense of the loose vacuum lines in the engine bay, the usual. I fitted one of them in the only free intake nipple that would reach(see pics no. 1 and 2).
    I installed the battery(nice and charged), put the ignition on and.... nothing. Well, almost nothing. When I turn the key(or press the button that the last owner said he modded into a ignition switch), the lights on the dash dim, there's a clicking sound coming from the engine starter followed by a bubbling noise from somewhere in the back. Starter won't turn. It had this problem ever since I first attempted to crank it over.
    The engine WILL start with power from another car, but I don't know why it won't even crank on it's own. I haven't tried to jump start it today, I was bummed. I couldn't even see if the replacement alternator is working or not.
    Made pics and added related questions on them. You can see them right here:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/12052190@N04/sets/72157627347666359/

    Awaiting replies(with advices). Thanks!
     
  9. anthill

    anthill Member

    When you say 'powered from another car', do you mean jumper cables applied to both your battery terminals, or one to positive, the other to body ground?

    The "button the last owner modded as ignition switch" sounds ugly!
     
  10. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Last edited: Dec 22, 2011
  11. anthill

    anthill Member

    I guess my point was, powering from another car is a way to tell why the starter's not getting enough voltage/current.

    If "powered from another car" means connecting to your Libero's body ground, then it might work because it's bypassing a bad battery ground on your van.

    If "powered from another car" means connecting to both your Libero's battery posts, then I'd suspect your van's battery is bad.
     
  12. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Got a new battery in it so I don't think the battery is bad. The battery had waited on the shelve more than it should, but the guy from the store checked it with a device before I bought it. The sticker says 360 AEN( http://www.modilebattery.gr/products_img/1307368531_0.jpg) and when he put it on a tester it showed 370-something. Each time I tried to start the car, I had the battery charged over night. When I turn the key/bush the button, the lights on the dash dim(as expected), the starter clicks and then something bubbles. I can only assume that it's gasoline being pumped through the system.

    The starter did this when I first tried to crank it(used a 2 year-something battery). If I remember correctly(and it's very likely that I don't), it kinda' struggled to work with jumper cables power as well before actually pop into action.
    The last owner did say something about tapping it with a hammer, cleaning it's contacts, taking it off and revising it. After all, the van had been sitting on the side of the road for like 5 years.
    I cleaned some of the starter's contacts(really corroded), I just found at least one more hiding below.

    When I told my dad what the symptoms are and he told me that the bendix shaft is not popping out for some reason. He told me I should take the whole thing off the car and rebuild it(cleaning, greasing, etc).

    Will do just that, but now temperatures dropped under 0(Centigrade) and I am not keen on working in the cold. Especially not with parts that are rusted shut.

    Will keep in touch if I'll make any progress.
    Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone! Best wishes from Bucharest!
     
  13. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Big shout out to all mods:
    For some reason, I can't see new replies on my thread. It happened before. I received the notification e-mail, I read the reply in the e-mail message on the Yahoo platform, but I can't read it here. Also, it's noted on the message board that I was the last one to reply to this thread[well, now I am last, but before this message, a new user from Finland was(and I salute the said user)]. Please try and explain to me why is this happening, maybe try and fix it.

    To the user who posted before me(guy from Finland). I'm sorry, man, but I didn't get your name. Thousand pardons, but that bit of info is not present on the notification e-mail.
    Now, to answer your questions: my project has come to a halt due to the harsh blizzard and extreme cold that set upon my city. I do not own a garage, I keep and work on my van in the parking lot in front of my apartment building. I know, it sucks oh so much, but that's the situation at the moment. I am planing on towing the van to my parent's ranch where I can store it safely in the yard, but I'll do that when the snow melts and the weather clears.
    At the moment I got the starter motor off the car. I plan on taking it apart and rebuild it with my dad this Saturday(very likely for him to postpone and me to take it apart with a friend of mine).
    I also took the front and rear underside shields off the car to blast the rust off and paint them(2-3 coats of primer + thick rubbery insulating paint, also got some zinc spray on the front shield). Will paint them when the weather allows it. Painting them in the cold would most likely result in a half-assed job.
    I installed the used alternator that I bought(never tested it) and changed some light bulbs. I discovered a big rust hole close to the gas cap.
    I received some(a lot of) pictures from my good friend sashusambar(he's also registered here, please guys help him out 'cuz he's a really nice fellow and his van is really cool).
    I thank him very much for the pictures, I really appreciate it, but it never hurts to get some more pics. There are never enough. Please send some pics of the vacuum lines, hand brake cable attachment(under the car, at the point where the cable separates into left and right for the rear wheels) and the seat belts attachments. I kinda' sorted it out from the pics he sent me, but I can use another look.
    Quick question: you said you've got an '88 model. Does it have manual choke or automatic?
    Feel free to check out my Flickr channel. I've got pics of my van there that explain what I need:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/12052190@N04/sets/72157627347666359/ .
    Also, I've got 2 videos posted on YT.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCLES5FACCU&feature=channel_video_title
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHgAo2y-TTQ&feature=relmfu .
    The monologue was addressed to sashusambar, he helped me a lot and I owe him big time!
    Cheers and thanks a lot for your offer to help me! Will be looking for your own thread.
     
  14. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    The weather finally cleared(actually it got AWESOME) here so I can go on with the work on my car(s).
    Got some fresh motor oil and filter for the van, will change them today.
    I think I may have found the problem with my starter motor. The wires that go to the starter go to a tiny little plastic box with 3 fuses: 1 main fuse(60A) and 2 for the headlamps(20A).
    The wire that comes out of it and goes to the starter is really really corroded. Lots of green copper oxide. Got it out, will clean off and solder new copper connectors on it. I would also like to take the little fuse box apart and clean that as well since it has some corrosion on it as well.
    The bracket that holds it attached to the body is really really rusty so I took that out as well. Will power clean and rustproof. That bracket also holds a ground wire that has a lot of corrosion as well.
    Hopefully, after fixing this corrosion issue, I'll be able to start the damn thing without having to "borrow" current from another car.
    Big HELLO to all the people who helped me so far and to all the people who are reading my thread.
    Also, huge thanks to sashusambar for all the info that he sent me. It will help me a lot in the process of fixing my 4WD wagon.
    Good bye for now, guys! Will keep in touch!
     
  15. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Yeah... After lots and lots of tinkering, cleaning contacts, making new wires, putting in new bits and bobs, the big day has arrived. The engine starts and runs!
    Still lots of problems, but at least I know it works.
    This is for you guys:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF8O6ez-XhE
    Thank you!
     
  16. anthill

    anthill Member

    Bravo! How much more needs doing?
     
  17. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    There's soooo much more to do, it's unbelievable. As a matter of fact, I couldn't even get it to move. I think it has something to do with the clutch, the previous owner did said something about adjusting something(I forgot exactly what, but I think he meant the clutch cable).
    It still needs some new wires and contacts, I must take the carburetor apart and clean it, vacuum lines need to be sorted out(hopefully it will fix the 4WD as well), the hand brake cable as well and it needs A LOT of rustproofing. New tires, new horn, new brake fluid, lots of cleaning, etc.
    She's a project.
     
  18. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Can anyone help me with some instructions on how to adjust my clutch cable? Damn thing won't work. If I mess with the adjusting nut at the end of the cable, I am able to find a spot where it will barely BARELY engage and just rock the car a bit(no real movement). Also, it will never stall if I put it in gear and release the clutch.
    My only concern is that the whole clutch would be shut. I really hope not 'cuz it will be a pain to replace. I'm hoping to be an adjustment problem.
    I have some instructions from a Repair Manual, but I can't understand anything. It's in German. Google Translate didn't help much so I turn to you guys.
    Can you tell me what's the proper procedure to adjust the clutch cable?
     
  19. sigkrist

    sigkrist New Member

    HI
    Sorry all i got from my "Specifications and service data" booklet is that Clutch petal play on petal is 10 to 25mm and on cable center of clutch realease fork is 3 to 5 mm. The cluch in my ´91 E12 broke last winter and had to put in new one, Just a month laiter the engine broke down and engine room cauct fire. now i got a another engine from ´97 E12 but its a EFI engine not carb like ´91 I like to keep the EFI got the computer and engine compartment wiring but have to figure out how to connect to my ´91 wiring, so if any one got electric schematics from E12 ´94 to ´99 i really need them.
     
  20. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I got that 10 to 25mm play on the pedal from the German repair book. I'm still trying to put it in context. I mean... what play? The distance that the pedal travels when pressed? Is that it?
    Also, it says that the distance from the edge of the floor pan to the fully pressed pedal should be 160mm. No matter what I do with the adjusting nut on the end of the cable(at the fork), I am not able to get more than 135-140 mm. I don't know what to do. Any adjustments on the front? Right at the pedal?
    Anywho.. this stuff is from a 1989 or 1990 E10. It doesn't even help me much with my carburetor vacuum line problem since I've got an automatic choke and the one in the book is manual. I'm sorry I can't help you there, man.
    I'm attaching the pics from the book with the clutch adjustment info. See what you understand from it.
    IMG_4341.JPG IMG_4345.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 10, 2012

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