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So I'm a Subaru owner....

Discussion in 'Microvans' started by Krieger-san, Aug 27, 2011.

  1. anthill

    anthill Member

    I guess my point was, powering from another car is a way to tell why the starter's not getting enough voltage/current.

    If "powered from another car" means connecting to your Libero's body ground, then it might work because it's bypassing a bad battery ground on your van.

    If "powered from another car" means connecting to both your Libero's battery posts, then I'd suspect your van's battery is bad.
     
  2. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Got a new battery in it so I don't think the battery is bad. The battery had waited on the shelve more than it should, but the guy from the store checked it with a device before I bought it. The sticker says 360 AEN( http://www.modilebattery.gr/products_img/1307368531_0.jpg) and when he put it on a tester it showed 370-something. Each time I tried to start the car, I had the battery charged over night. When I turn the key/bush the button, the lights on the dash dim(as expected), the starter clicks and then something bubbles. I can only assume that it's gasoline being pumped through the system.

    The starter did this when I first tried to crank it(used a 2 year-something battery). If I remember correctly(and it's very likely that I don't), it kinda' struggled to work with jumper cables power as well before actually pop into action.
    The last owner did say something about tapping it with a hammer, cleaning it's contacts, taking it off and revising it. After all, the van had been sitting on the side of the road for like 5 years.
    I cleaned some of the starter's contacts(really corroded), I just found at least one more hiding below.

    When I told my dad what the symptoms are and he told me that the bendix shaft is not popping out for some reason. He told me I should take the whole thing off the car and rebuild it(cleaning, greasing, etc).

    Will do just that, but now temperatures dropped under 0(Centigrade) and I am not keen on working in the cold. Especially not with parts that are rusted shut.

    Will keep in touch if I'll make any progress.
    Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone! Best wishes from Bucharest!
     
  3. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Big shout out to all mods:
    For some reason, I can't see new replies on my thread. It happened before. I received the notification e-mail, I read the reply in the e-mail message on the Yahoo platform, but I can't read it here. Also, it's noted on the message board that I was the last one to reply to this thread[well, now I am last, but before this message, a new user from Finland was(and I salute the said user)]. Please try and explain to me why is this happening, maybe try and fix it.

    To the user who posted before me(guy from Finland). I'm sorry, man, but I didn't get your name. Thousand pardons, but that bit of info is not present on the notification e-mail.
    Now, to answer your questions: my project has come to a halt due to the harsh blizzard and extreme cold that set upon my city. I do not own a garage, I keep and work on my van in the parking lot in front of my apartment building. I know, it sucks oh so much, but that's the situation at the moment. I am planing on towing the van to my parent's ranch where I can store it safely in the yard, but I'll do that when the snow melts and the weather clears.
    At the moment I got the starter motor off the car. I plan on taking it apart and rebuild it with my dad this Saturday(very likely for him to postpone and me to take it apart with a friend of mine).
    I also took the front and rear underside shields off the car to blast the rust off and paint them(2-3 coats of primer + thick rubbery insulating paint, also got some zinc spray on the front shield). Will paint them when the weather allows it. Painting them in the cold would most likely result in a half-assed job.
    I installed the used alternator that I bought(never tested it) and changed some light bulbs. I discovered a big rust hole close to the gas cap.
    I received some(a lot of) pictures from my good friend sashusambar(he's also registered here, please guys help him out 'cuz he's a really nice fellow and his van is really cool).
    I thank him very much for the pictures, I really appreciate it, but it never hurts to get some more pics. There are never enough. Please send some pics of the vacuum lines, hand brake cable attachment(under the car, at the point where the cable separates into left and right for the rear wheels) and the seat belts attachments. I kinda' sorted it out from the pics he sent me, but I can use another look.
    Quick question: you said you've got an '88 model. Does it have manual choke or automatic?
    Feel free to check out my Flickr channel. I've got pics of my van there that explain what I need:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/12052190@N04/sets/72157627347666359/ .
    Also, I've got 2 videos posted on YT.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCLES5FACCU&feature=channel_video_title
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHgAo2y-TTQ&feature=relmfu .
    The monologue was addressed to sashusambar, he helped me a lot and I owe him big time!
    Cheers and thanks a lot for your offer to help me! Will be looking for your own thread.
     
  4. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    The weather finally cleared(actually it got AWESOME) here so I can go on with the work on my car(s).
    Got some fresh motor oil and filter for the van, will change them today.
    I think I may have found the problem with my starter motor. The wires that go to the starter go to a tiny little plastic box with 3 fuses: 1 main fuse(60A) and 2 for the headlamps(20A).
    The wire that comes out of it and goes to the starter is really really corroded. Lots of green copper oxide. Got it out, will clean off and solder new copper connectors on it. I would also like to take the little fuse box apart and clean that as well since it has some corrosion on it as well.
    The bracket that holds it attached to the body is really really rusty so I took that out as well. Will power clean and rustproof. That bracket also holds a ground wire that has a lot of corrosion as well.
    Hopefully, after fixing this corrosion issue, I'll be able to start the damn thing without having to "borrow" current from another car.
    Big HELLO to all the people who helped me so far and to all the people who are reading my thread.
    Also, huge thanks to sashusambar for all the info that he sent me. It will help me a lot in the process of fixing my 4WD wagon.
    Good bye for now, guys! Will keep in touch!
     
  5. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Yeah... After lots and lots of tinkering, cleaning contacts, making new wires, putting in new bits and bobs, the big day has arrived. The engine starts and runs!
    Still lots of problems, but at least I know it works.
    This is for you guys:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF8O6ez-XhE
    Thank you!
     
  6. anthill

    anthill Member

    Bravo! How much more needs doing?
     
  7. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    There's soooo much more to do, it's unbelievable. As a matter of fact, I couldn't even get it to move. I think it has something to do with the clutch, the previous owner did said something about adjusting something(I forgot exactly what, but I think he meant the clutch cable).
    It still needs some new wires and contacts, I must take the carburetor apart and clean it, vacuum lines need to be sorted out(hopefully it will fix the 4WD as well), the hand brake cable as well and it needs A LOT of rustproofing. New tires, new horn, new brake fluid, lots of cleaning, etc.
    She's a project.
     
  8. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Can anyone help me with some instructions on how to adjust my clutch cable? Damn thing won't work. If I mess with the adjusting nut at the end of the cable, I am able to find a spot where it will barely BARELY engage and just rock the car a bit(no real movement). Also, it will never stall if I put it in gear and release the clutch.
    My only concern is that the whole clutch would be shut. I really hope not 'cuz it will be a pain to replace. I'm hoping to be an adjustment problem.
    I have some instructions from a Repair Manual, but I can't understand anything. It's in German. Google Translate didn't help much so I turn to you guys.
    Can you tell me what's the proper procedure to adjust the clutch cable?
     
  9. sigkrist

    sigkrist New Member

    HI
    Sorry all i got from my "Specifications and service data" booklet is that Clutch petal play on petal is 10 to 25mm and on cable center of clutch realease fork is 3 to 5 mm. The cluch in my ´91 E12 broke last winter and had to put in new one, Just a month laiter the engine broke down and engine room cauct fire. now i got a another engine from ´97 E12 but its a EFI engine not carb like ´91 I like to keep the EFI got the computer and engine compartment wiring but have to figure out how to connect to my ´91 wiring, so if any one got electric schematics from E12 ´94 to ´99 i really need them.
     
  10. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I got that 10 to 25mm play on the pedal from the German repair book. I'm still trying to put it in context. I mean... what play? The distance that the pedal travels when pressed? Is that it?
    Also, it says that the distance from the edge of the floor pan to the fully pressed pedal should be 160mm. No matter what I do with the adjusting nut on the end of the cable(at the fork), I am not able to get more than 135-140 mm. I don't know what to do. Any adjustments on the front? Right at the pedal?
    Anywho.. this stuff is from a 1989 or 1990 E10. It doesn't even help me much with my carburetor vacuum line problem since I've got an automatic choke and the one in the book is manual. I'm sorry I can't help you there, man.
    I'm attaching the pics from the book with the clutch adjustment info. See what you understand from it.
    IMG_4341.JPG IMG_4345.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 10, 2012
  11. sigkrist

    sigkrist New Member

    The petal play as i understand it is free play at pedal. the 3 to 5 is free play at gearbox clutch fork. adjusted on the cable. My 92 had a water controlled choke. had a problem with idling at a time and found out faulty vacume valve located left to the "hood" bumper lock + the lines to it. The symptoms were that i had to give it gas to keep running all the time cold or hot. if i losen the lid on air filter just a bit so it get small air in there it runned ok. as i remember one line from the valve was connected to airfilter house. Cant se it now becouse it burned. You can see the valve i am talking about in this photo. 87_n.jpg

    Love the vid on youtube, but it sounds like its a bit of time one ore tvo nods or so or somthing stuck in ignition.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2012
  12. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I know that valve. Mine looks fine. I actually did some work around it. I took off the 2 brackets that hold it on the van, power-brushed them, sprayed them with Zn/Al spray and then brushed a few thick coats of paint on them. Rustproofed the bejesus out of them. Since those brackets were ground contacts, I left the electric contact areas covered only in ZN/Al spray, no primer paint. They were very VERY rusty, now they are looking great and I'm sure the ground works better as well.
    My carburetor(single barrel Hitachi, water controlled choke) must be taken apart and cleaned. It runs rich at the moment and it's unresponsive to adjustment.
    I have no idle when cold. I must hold the gas pedal pressed, otherwise it dies off. The engineer who took a look at my engine said that there should be a spring connected to the choke plate thing holding it open. A spring that is missing, of course, and I have no idea how big or hard it should be. I will make a video about this.
    Also, I have to press the gas pedal when I push the ignition button(yes, my van has an ignition button). I think gas should flow automatically, without me pressing the pedal.
    I also have to adjust the throttle plate cable(lots of slack in the cable, only opens up like half way), but I think I'll do that after I get my carb in order.

    Now, about the clutch. I think it would be easier to set it right if you give me a measurement. How long is the end of the threaded rod behind the adjusting nut on the fork? I think it would be easier that way. I tried a whole lot of setups today, I got the muffler and cat hot in like seconds and it got really hard to work there.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2012
  13. paulhills

    paulhills New Member

    Hi great thread,.. keep the posts coming :)

    i have a 1991 1.0ltr subaru sumo (uk model) which has developed a carb problem,.. have you managed to find somewhere to get a carb kit from? i have cleaned mine out but it is still causing issues, so i think it might be worth changing the valves / float / etc
     
  14. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Hello there! Glad to hear that you like my thread. I will try to keep it up to date.
    As a matter of fact, I just shot a small video showing you guys what have I've done the last few days and the problems that I'm facing at the moment.
    Not much progress, the weather is really nasty(it rained A LOT and it's ON and OFF... really annoying).
    Will upload the video on YT tomorrow and post the link.
    Now, how 'bout your carburetor? I don't know what do say. Mine's an automatic choke. To be honest, I'm not really into carburetors, I prefer EFI. Needless to say, I'm not really good at fixing them carbs. That's exactly why I want to call an expert to help me work on mine. Never worked on a Hitachi, so I don't want to do any damage.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2012
  15. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

  16. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Does anyone know if the starter on the Subaru Libero comes with shim(s)? I don't remember having one, but I found this piece of metal thingy inside the van that kinda' looks like one(except it has no holes big enough for the bolts to go through).
    The repair book schematics don't seem to show any shims, but I'm a really paranoid guy. Could it just be improper cranking due to low current which in turn is due to the corroded power lines and the cheap twist-on fix on the ignition wire?
    Will try and finish rustproofing the battery box next time I go to the ranch, put the whole damn thing together and try it out. That if the paranoia doesn't gets me first. Seriously, it's starting to mess with my head.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2012
  17. paulhills

    paulhills New Member

    hi krieger, i have a 1.0 sumo, so its not quite the same,. but i believe the pipe you are holding at 3:50 is a breather / overflow pipe for the transmission fluid. my van has a thick yellow coloured pipe coming from there to towards the bumper, where it is attached by a kind of cable tie to another pipe by the starter motor & distributor. i do not think you need to worry about finding somewhere for this pipe to attach to.

    DSC01445.jpg
     
  18. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Truth be told, I did thought of that possibility. I kinda' decided to deny it because I don't really think that gear oil can expand that much when hot.
    THEN AGAIN, my XR4Ti has a little similar something something on the differential. It's a little black rubber hose that stands up and it's attached to the chassis. When the oil expands, it goes up, when it cools down, it flows back down into the diff housing.
    Thanks a lot :) !
     
  19. paulhills

    paulhills New Member

    regarding the pipes on the carb, you have several for the fuel and several vacume pipes. you have the 1.2 so it looks like you have more pipes than me. but i think the pipe you are holding at 8:31 is actually part of the fuel system. if you remove the rear panel inside the van, you will see the fuel seperator:

    DSC01517.jpg

    (to be honest i dont know what this does) but if you look at the pic of my fuel lines:

    carb pipes.jpg

    you can see that the top 2 pipes are your fuel in and fuel return for your carb. the other pipes go into the fuel seperator. here is a diagram of the piping:

    fuel line diagram.jpg
     
  20. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I got the fuel lines figured out(at least the important bits), it's the vacuum lines that bug me.
    I fiddled with the fuel inlet and fuel return lines myself, replaced the rubber section with brand new hoses(especially for gas, not regular) and I installed a new paper filter.
    I have no idea what does that fuel separator/epurator/whatever thing does or how it works, but I try and stay clear of it. I do have that listed in the Repair Manual, there are some schematics there. It's in German, so I didn't read it, therefore I'm not sure what is supposed to do.
    Will make sure to clean and rustproof all the components that are exposed to road debris, but I won't take it all apart. The fuel system runs fine. It's the carb is the only faulty part. It's dirty and it has wacky vacuum lines. No choke and no cold idle.
    Tell me if you want me to send you those pics from the German repair manual regarding the manual choke carb.
     
  21. paulhills

    paulhills New Member

    i think the pipe you refer to at 8:31 as a vacume pipe, is not actually a vacume pipe, but part of the fuel seperator system. i really do not understand how the seperator works, because as far as i can see no fuel actually goes through it (not on my van anyway) im guessing it is to do with fuel fumes? but i think the pipe you are holding is the fuel pipe i have highlighted in red:
    fuel line diagram.jpg

    vacume lines.jpg
    my van only has 2 vacume hoses. 1 from the carb to the distributor and 1 from the carb to the manifold. they are probably the same on your van, so maybe once you have those in place you can work out the extra ones you have?
     
  22. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    I'll be... your carb looks neat. And it's so cool not having all those vacuum lines all over the place. On my van, I've got vacuum lines going to the intake manifold, to the air cleaner, to the distributor, I've got some of them going deep down towards the front of the car(I think those are for the 4WD system), etc
    I'll check the Repair manual for some fuel separator schematics, maybe I'll find something.
    I also think that the fuel separator has something to do with gas fumes, but I find it really weird. I never seen such a thing on a car. Then again, I'm no genius mechanic, I'm still learning.
    Thanks!
     
  23. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Checking the schematics right now and checking the translation with Google Translate, this fuel separator thing is really starting to look like a viable answer.
    I remember crawling under the car and finding out that the said rubber hose goes down under that thing behind the black metal cover(same as the battery cover, but on the right side). There are several lines there and that one was the first one on the right.
    That's it, tomorrow morning I'm crawling under again and taking the camera with me :) .
     
  24. paulhills

    paulhills New Member

    im afraid i have never dealt with the 4wd.. so i am not much used to you for that. i think the justy used the same 4wd drive system (gear lever button) so it might be worth looking up justy forums / diagrams to see if they are any help. if there is anything else you have problems with, let me know and i will see if i can help. one thing i would say is check your exhaust manifold. it is cast iron and i have had 3 (from ebay) all cracked in the same place,.. had it welded for its last mot, but the weld has cracked off, subaru want £350 and it will take up to 6 weeks to ship from japan,.so i think its time to get a stainless steel custom one made!
     
  25. paulhills

    paulhills New Member

    good luck with the seperator tomorrow! let us know how you get on
     
  26. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    The 4WD system is an entire new chapter. A new adventure if you will. Will sort that too.
    I have faith in this engineer guy that I just called to help me take the carb apart, maybe he'll manage to do the vacuum lines properly when we're gonna put it back together. Hopefully, that will allow the 4WD system to work. The electric part of it seems to work(I can here a click somewhere deep down when I push the button), but the bulb on the dash doesn't come on. I never actually driven it, so I don't know if the front axle engages or not.
    Also thanks for the advice on the exhaust manifold. I will be more careful with it. I didn't notice any leaks, noises or visible cracks on it. I know cast iron manifolds can be a pain, my dad had some problems with the one on his '96 Mondeo. He welded it, put some exhaust manifold crack repair putty on top, no problem ever since.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2012
  27. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Hello again! First off, let me thank you for the friendship invitation. Appreciate that, I really do :) .
    I whipped out the cellphone camera this morning, took 2 short videos of that troublesome rubber hose. Will most likely scrap them(bad sunshine light) and make a new one tomorrow.
    That hose really looks like it's a part of the fuel separator system. There's a bunch of rubber lines going down and they go onto thin metal pipes(similar to the schematics that I found in the repair manual). The broken hose goes in the first one on the right side of the car.
    I took a sniff at the end, it didn't smell like gas. Will try and figure out where is supposed to be attached. I do have a loose nipple on the carburetor, it's a L shape nipple right behind the throttle body. Since that's the only one I could find without a hose in it, that one is my primary suspect(for the moment).

    In another order of business, I got home from the ranch where I did manage to paint the battery box and the air box. I used some marine/industrial tar like rustproof paint for the battery box and some silver heat resistant paint for the air cleaner box. The silver color was not my idea, but it was the only color available in heat resistant paint. I will however achieve some sort of a sweet color scheme. Since the cover of the air box will not be that affected by heat, I used some normal red-ish industrial primer paint on it. I painted the nut silver and I will do all lettering/logos with the complementary color. It's gonna be sweet.
    Also, I'll be able to spray it BLACK any time I want.

    In yet another order of business, I want to ask you something about a relay box inside the car. It's a tiny little black relay box bolted on the car right behind the driver's door. Someone kicked it in the passed, broke the attachment part and used some electrical wire to tie it up and out of the way. I wanted to try and glue it back together on the bolt and I pulled one of the wires out. Now I'm not sure if I put it back on the right pin(I'm clueless when it comes to relays and electronics). Will definitely make a video on that tomorrow. The relay has some notifications on it next to the pins, but I don't understand them.
    Thanks a lot for your support.
    Good night!
     
  28. sigkrist

    sigkrist New Member

    HI guys. i just started cleaning out the engine room in my Sub E12 Columbus 1991 after the fire, and starting to put in 1997 engine with injection, just checked the lines and stuf that is still ok in there and took að pic. there is one big and one thine vacume line from the fuel vapor seperator, and one big that goes in to the fuel tank. It basicly work in that way that at hi vacume the seperator take the fuel vapour from the tank in to the intake manifold it is controlled by the thin vacume line. The tupe from the gearbox is ventilation and just goes do down the site of gearbox. took a pic of it.
    I also took a pict of 4wd system may be it can help. I remeber 2 cars that the wiring to the solenoids (there að 2 solenoids) did break and there fore no 4wd in both the wire broke rigt at the connector. The starter in my E12 has 2 shims.
    xperia 001.jpg xperia 002.jpg

    Ill be watching the thread and asking for help while i be
    mixing to gether the electrical/vacume system from 1997 to my 1991.

    Se yoou
    Sigkrist
     
  29. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

    Shims? How/where are they attached? I never got the hold of this.
    If you can, please make a photo of those too so I know what to look for. Thank you.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2012
  30. Krieger-san

    Krieger-san Member

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