Is there a current to the coil, when in start position? Some ignition systems, step down the voltage in run position, and full voltage during start. It used to be done with two resisters in a ceramic holder, and the resistors will sometimes go bad, preventing any current to the coil. The Toyota igniters had it internal in the ignitors, I would expect the same in a Daihatsu.
Don't really know how to answer, mine doesn't have a coil it has a coil pak for each cylinder. I would guess that it is not getting power to the coil paks since there is no fire through them. What I can't understand is why it will start by being pulled but not by the starter. No doubt by pulling it the engine is forced to turn much faster by pulling it and that is what is letting it start, That has to mean that something is sending fire through the coil paks but only after the engine is forced to a higher rpm than the starter can make it turn. I have to say again, after it starts it runs fine, and will idle.
Have you put a voltmeter across the battery and watched the voltage while cranking? Turn on the headlights and then try to crank it - if the headlights dim quite a bit or go out, this indicates that you may have a problem with the grounding of the starter, corrosion at the terminals, excessive draw at the starter or low battery level. Fred
Checked it this morning: 12.4 to start with, dropped to 11.25 while cranking.{ no start of course}. Hooked cables to it from a tractor with the tractor running, 14.5 to start with, pulled down to 11.5 with continuous cranking, no start. the rpms being higher when it is being pulled doesn't make any difference, because that engine was really spinning with that 14 volts. What about the switch, there is power to the coils when the switch is on because it will pull start and run, but there is no power to the coils when the starter is engaged
That does sound like a bad switch. Could you splice into the ignition wire close to the switch and feed it through a toggle or push button switch? Fred
It sounds like you have no power to the coils with the ignition in the start position. So, if you have the ignition switch in the run position there is no spark, and the engine can’t start no matter how fast the starter turns the engine. Put the ignition in the start position, where there is power o the coils, and turn the engine starts. I found a schematic, and looked it over. My first guess is the ignition switch itself.
My thinking is switch also, but,,,, after it has been pull started and it has run for an hour, kill it, it will start right up, wait 10 minutes and it will turn over a few times but it will start, wait 20 minutes and you have to crank the heck out of it but it might start, wait 30 minutes and forget it, it's back to pull start time. I have changed just about every thing else so I looked at the switch, and it appears to be riveted to the steering column or is there some trick to r&ring the switch without changing out the steering column also.
Have you tried putting key in the run position and crossing the starter solenoid so the engine cranks?
