I have an automatic transmission 1995 Daihatsu Hijet S110P EF-ES with 4wd that has a button labeled PWR on the dash (photos attached). It doesn't currently do anything when I flip it on. There's no engine RPM change or sounds or anything (unlike the diff lock which makes the RPM speed up). There is a spot for a light that says PWR on the dash underneath the difflock indicator, but it doesn't light up. According to the Japanese manual that came with the car, it is called 'bull mode' (translated to English) and you turn it on when you need extra power for going up hill. I live in a town with a ton of hills and it'd be really convenient if this thing actually worked, but I can't find any information on this feature or what people typically call it. Is it just overdrive with a different name? How do I even begin to diagnose problems with this switch?
On my 2021 I have a overdrive button for my automatic trans on the shift handle. When I select overdrive, the O/D light is on in the cluster. No light on your car pwr button or in the dash? I assume it is the same, as Daihatsu is owned by Toyota, here an explanation from T: ECT PWR button : ECT is an acronym for Electronically Controlled Transmission and the ECT PWR button is a function of the redesigned transmission. When pressed, the ECT PWR button will adjust shift points so you can reach higher RPM levels before shifting into the next gear. This innovative feature employs a system of hydraulics that operate clutches and bands within the transmission and are controlled by an electronic solenoid. When in operation, the ECT PWR feature will provide a greater degree of control over your speed and enhance control. https://www.whiterivertoyota.com/blog/benefits-of-the-toyota-tacoma-ect-pwr-button/ The PWR and MANU buttons are a part of the ECT Mode. These are not required in your day to day driving, but knowing their usage will help to get the most out of your auto. The PWR and MANU Buttons The PWR is a type of power mode. However, it does not make the car accelerate faster or increase the power. It changes the gearshift points in an automatic transmission and makes it more sensitive to the throttle position. The button is commonly used at the time of towing a heavy load. It enables the vehicle to adjust the gear ratio according to the towed cargo. https://carfromjapan.com/article/driving-tips/pwr-manu-buttons-work-in-automatic-car/ also here you can see that a light goes on in the cluster when you switch the pwr button on, Daihatsu Move PWR Button explained in URDU even if we do not understand Urdu, we hear him talking about max RPM, overtaking use etc
So what exactly does this do at the transmission? Is there a solenoid or something that moves when the switch is enabled? There is a spot for the dashboard indicator light but it never turns on. There could be a short somewhere but I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what the switch actually enables, even after googling this system for several hours.
Thats's what I copied: This innovative feature employs a system of hydraulics that operate clutches and bands within the transmission and are controlled by an electronic solenoid. When pressed, the PWR button will adjust shift points so you can reach higher RPM levels before shifting into the next gear. On my old 1988 BMW E32 750 I have a similar system for the 4-speed ZF 4HP24 auto trans, E for economy, S for sports = same as described above, shifts later into next gear at higher RPM, and M for manual, with that it stays always in the selected gear and does not shift at all. All controlled by the transmission control module. Check the light in the dashboard first, either the bulb dead or some wire problem. For some electr. systems a working bulb is necessary, for example a alternator needs the dash battery light bulb as exciter, so that the alternator starts producing volts. Not sure if that is also for this pwr button, but it is worth a test.
All light bulbs in the instrument cluster are working fine, just checked. The PWR switch gets 12v when the key is turned on. The switch itself works fine and I took it out of the dash and tested it with a continuity meter. There is no bulb inside the switch itself. It must be something further down the line. I was reading a document about Toyota automatic transmissions (attached) that mentions a lockup solenoid inside the transmission that controls the ECT PWR / shift pattern response. My truck has some weird rough idling after driving and poor acceleration issues and now I'm wondering if this might be malfunctioning. I'm kind of hesitant to remove the transmission pan without a replacement gasket though. And I don't even see replacement solenoids for sale on any website. Might be kind of stuck like this for now.
Interesting document. Based on that Toyota info, the 3rd valve is located outside, provided it is the same system on the Hijet, quote: Solenoid Valves: Solenoid valves are electro-mechanical devices which control hydraulic circuits by opening a drain for pressurized hydraulic fluid. Of the solenoid valves, No. 1 and No. 2 control gear shifting while No. 3 controls torque converter lock-up. No. 1 and No. 2 Solenoid Valves These solenoid valves are mounted on the valve body and are turned on and off by electrical signals from the ECU, causing various hydraulic circuits to be switched as necessary. By controlling the two solenoids' on and off sequences, we are able to provide four forward gears as well as prevent upshifts into third or fourth gear. The No. 1 and No. 2 solenoids are normally closed. The plunger is spring loaded to the closed position, and when energized, the plunger is pulled up, allowing line pressure fluid to drain. The operation of these solenoids by the ECT ECU is described on pages 16- 19. No. 3 Solenoid Valve This solenoid valve is mounted on the transmission exterior or valve body. It controls line pressure which affects the operation of the torque converter lock-up system. This solenoid is either a normally open or normally closed solenoid. The A340E, A340H, A540E and A540H transmissions use the normally open solenoid. ---------------------- I have never touched a Daihatsu trans, have done a lot of valve body repair works on ZF transmissions type 4HP22/24, 5HP18/19,30, 5HP24. For that there is a lot of info, just to show you how it works http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Data/ZF Tech Guide.pdf Here a valve body repair on a 4HP22 from my BMW repair DIY website http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/jason/4HP22EH_ValveBody/4HP22EH-Valvebody.html Usually such a valve body overhaul on the ZF takes several hours, provided one has a lift and the tools and the parts needed. From experience I can say that the solenoid valves often stick from dirt and have to be disassembled and cleaned.
I couldn't find a solenoid mounted on the outside of the transmission anywhere, and the Toyota manual mentioned it can also be inside, so I went ahead and removed the transmission pan. I only found two solenoids inside (presumably the no. 1 and 2 solenoids). Unplugged those and took them out for some tests. Also took photos of what the inside of the transmission looks like and the solenoids. I plugged the no. 1 solenoid into a spare 12v battery using alligator clips and activated it several times, hearing it click. But then it stopped clicking, and won't move at all anymore. I tried the second one and it clicked but I was worried that I fried the first one somehow, so I didn't try that one as many times. Solenoid 1 (I think) is on the left and 2 is on the right in the photo of them separated from the transmission on a tissue. The resistance on the second solenoid is waaaay less than the first solenoid and there's not really good continuity between the housing and the wire harness pin on the first solenoid. I might have fried it. Or it was already fried and this is why I've had issues. Who knows. Going to get an expensive replacement now I guess. Or try to clean it out with electric parts cleaner and see if I can make it work again.
The Toyota transmission manual says that if solenoid 1 is not functioning, your car is stuck in third gear in every drive mode except for L, in which case it can shift between 1 and 2. This almost exactly describes my driving experience. The truck is bad at accelerating up to speed from a total stop, never goes up hill fast enough unless I shift into L, acts like it's going to stall when I come to a stop, and doesn't seem to shift at all when I switch the transmission into '2'. Pretty suspicious. No idea if this is even related to the PWR button not activating the dash light though lol.
is there any p/n, brand on the solenoid, then we can try to find one, maybe we are lucky. Daihatsu should have them. try to find a trans rebuilder near you and ask, here is ATRA where you can find a shop near you https://www.atra.com/ what's the trans model? Any sticker on the trans? Aliexpress - as example - is selling solenoids for Toyoya and Daihatsu trans U540E and U540 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000058582306.html or ask Yokohama motors with chassis no., pics and details of the valve https://yokohamamotors.net/daihatsu-hijet-transfer-case-4wd-solenoid-pack-details.html
Looks like AISIN 5C29. I'll check the transmission for a sticker, I've looked a few times but haven't seen any markings on it despite people saying that there should be one on the side in service manuals. Will try to contact Yoko today, or maybe even call a transmission shop in the next town over to see if they know how to go about ordering these things. Thanks for all of your help, by the way. Appreciate all of the replies from you.
https://www.aisin.com/en/product/ contact addreses NA https://www.aisin.com/en/profile/global/ Aisin Drivetrain, Inc.,1001 Industrial Way,Crothersville, IN 47229 or this AW TRANSMISSION ENGINEERING U.S.A., INC. Management and sales, Address: 14920 Keel Street, Plymouth, Michigan 48170, USA, Business Automatic transmission repair, quality and technological information research There must be a sticker somewhere on the transmission, when I order parts for ZF transmissions, I always have to give those data, that includes maker, type, serial number, and parts list number, with those data they know exactly all the details of the transmission. here a ZF name tag as example https://www.thectsc.com/products/valve-body-harness-5hp30-89-14.html On the ZF and GM transmissions the resistance of the solenoids is different based on their function, examples for info only here from my website some data http://twrite.org/shogunnew/data/gearbox.html
There is no sticker on my transmission anywhere. If there ever was, it's long gone unfortunately. I can't seem to find a list of transmissions that were used in Hijets of this model. I can't find any information on anything at all regarding s110p hijets. Glad this car is so easy to work on. (To anyone reading this, for the love of god just import literally anything else. There's no information or parts available for the s100 series hijets and they're miserable to work on and I've even heard from parts suppliers today that they can't even get parts lists from Daihatsu for these things.) The only name plates that I have to work off of are these: And here are photos of the whole transmission in the S110P automatic 4wd hijet EF-ES, if anyone can identify a transmission model number based off of this at some point: Fortunately, after spraying out the solenoids with electric parts cleaner, both operate perfectly and do not stick at all. I guess I didn't fry it after all, it was just stuck in the open position. Now all I need is a transmission pan gasket and I can put it all back together. I don't think that'll be easy to find though. Photo of transmission pan here: Is it a bad idea to use some kind of liquid gasket material for this? Do people do that with transmissions? The mating surface isn't flat and the pan has ridges on the edge so I don't know if liquid gasket would work.
you could try liquid seal, and also try at same time to get a new trans pan gasket from Yokohama motors, if not listed, send then a pic of the chassis number plate and they will know what is needed https://yokohamamotors.net/page60.html For Suzuki they have them https://yokohamamotors.net/suzuki-carry-transmission-oil-pan-gasket-db52t-4at-details.html so they also should have them for your Hijet I have used liquid gasket for intake resealing on my BMW. How to use gasket-maker for oil pan or transmission pan. Or if you find a Cork sheet/Gasket material Nitrile Bonded and make the gasket DIY?, example https://www.ebay.com/itm/222964234339 as for the solenoids, if they are still not moving smoothly, I use on ZF solenoids some special MoS2 coating, also known as Moly Coatings
You can make gaskets. On the trans pan lay a sheet of cork gasket material on a flat surface. Put the form-a -gasket on the pan, and set it on the sheet and press it down slightly to get very thing level up, and leave it over night to dry. Next day you turn it over and trim the cork to the pan with sharp Hobby knife. I have some round punches that I use for the bowl holes. I have a set that is about sixty years old, (I bought them used in 1972). I choose teh one which just fits in the hole in the pan, and tap it into the gasket material, with the whole thing setting on some UHMW Poly.
ALRIGHT, new custom cork-nitrile-whatever gasket is on the pan, and after spilling transmission fluid all over the engine and trial-and-error filling until I hit the fill line on the dipstick while the engine was running, the truck is driveable again. Still getting crappy acceleration, even on flat roads, and I still have to shift into L to go up hills (which I can live with I guess). And the PWR button still doesn't do anything. Back to where we started, lol. Getting new spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and plug wires in the mail soon. Maybe it'll get a little more power from that I guess. Still doesn't address this button doing nothing though.
Can anyone confirm if following this path of cleaning the solenoids, filter and fluids fixes the issue of no second gear mine requires you to start in low, when you shift into second there is a tremendous power loss. Once you get going you can go 80+ kph in the second gear setting. The motor seems to never top out again. I think mine is shifting straight into third since when you shift up into D, you get no shift. I'm going to do this same clean, test and replace in a attempt to repair what I believe is a missing 2nd gear do to solenoid issues. My power button has a spot for a green light that doesn't respond to anything. So I'm unsure if it is due to my other shifting issue or if it just doesn't work. I just purchased my S110V and the seller advised no one knows what that button is for. It seems it has been answered in this thread, now we just got to fix it. Also, I am awaiting my manual to arrive does the Automatic transmission require just regular ATF?
What happens if you try to start it in drive? By shift into second, do you mean '2' on the automatic shifter? (I was looking into how Toyota automatic transmissions work and apparently 2 is just D but it has a longer period of time where it sits on the gear before it will switch to the next one in order) L gear is supposed to be restricted to 1 and 2, and it's really really really loud. When in D, my truck is never that loud, which leads me to believe that it's doing something similar (it feels like it's starting in 3 instead of 1 or 2). The acceleration is super slow unless I'm in L, but it's still driveable and will get up to normal speeds eventually. My PWR button also looked like it has a little hole for a light bulb to be mounted to it behind the PWR text on the switch, but if you shine a light at it it's completely black from the other side. I don't think they intended for the switch to light up. Must just be a factory thing. There is definitely a light bulb on the dash that I have never been able to get to light up, and I've tested the bulbs. There are two wires on the PWR switch in my car: "white with black stripe" and "light green with dark green stripe". Photo: The white/black cable goes to a wire harness on the instrument/gauge cluster and is supposed to complete the circuit for the light bulb. The green/green cable goes into a big cable bundle behind the dash and I have not been able to trace it yet. It does not lead to the transmission computer or the computer in the center console (under the cigarette lighter), or any wire harness behind the gauge cluster. I put regular ATF in my automatic transmission. Was not able to find any information disputing it. Everyone else seems to have a manual transmission hijet so there is zero information anywhere about this. I can check the Japanese manual later for more information on it, but I think they only mention engine oil.
Thanks for your reply. In D I have hardly any torque if I'm already rolling I can keep moving but if I'm dead stopped on grass I can't get moving, it's not running up like clutches slipping it just boggs the motor down. L works fine I can spin wheels. Yes I mean 2, it acts the same as D. I have not pulled my switch or anything I just know nothing happens when I flip it.
Maybe they just gave us dummy switches to make up for the poor acceleration in automatic transmission Hijets, lol. I'll keep trying to trace the wires and see if I can even get voltage from the switch.
Dropped the transmission pan today, cleaned the same 2 solenoids, cleaned the filter. Put the pan back on with a little RTV silicone. Refilled with about 3 quarts of Castrol ATF high mileage. I have enough torque to drive in D on regular ground and gain speeds and really get moving on the road now. Huge improvement where I was at... Thanks for the tips. BUT Im not so sure I cured everything that is going on with this transmission it does NOT shift. Whatever I'm starting off in (assuming 3rd) is the same gear I'm in cruising at 80 kph it just don't shift period up or down it acts the same as my Polaris ranger ( but not as fast) but start to finish no shifts. In L I've got plenty of torque, 2 is the same as if it was in D. So D and 2 is the same gear. I cannot locate the torque converter lockup solenoid I pulled out what I assume to be a speed sensor out of the top tail housing but it's just a normal magnetized sensor. No other wires found. Any ideas?
Yep, sounds like all of the exact same stuff I did. Thought the speed sensor was a solenoid too lol. Nice work. I'm going to cut into my transmission computer today or tomorrow and test the capacitors in there (this thread). Your issue might also be the transmission control computer too.
Probably a problem of the defective transmission control unit (computer) in the link/thread of MrJPolito. In general when there is something wrong on a trans system like unplausible/ no signals, the transmission will go into limpmode. If your car is in limp mode, your acceleration will be very slow.. Limp mode is a security function for your engine and transmission. When the engine or transmission control unit receives a very faulty parameter from the engine or transmission, the car will go into limp mode.The limp mode often reduces the power and limits the engine’s RPM to drive your car to a workshop without damaging the engine. Hope you can fix the trans control module and then we will see
Y'all are stressing me out! Kidding...once I take delivery of mine, I'll provide info if mine drives differently. I appreciate all of your posting.
As directed above, if you (1) have a 3 speed automatic, (2) it feels sluggish, and (3) you do not see a "PWR" light on your dashboard when you turn your PWR switch on, you will likely benefit from capacitor replacement in your transmission computer (located behind and to the right of the speedometer). This is what your dash should look like: https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/a...ion-control-computer.21545/page-3#post-125747
