Took a chance & bought non-running 1996 Carry for $1000. Sight unseen except for a pic. Engine rebuilt 2013. Only few thousand miles on rebuild. Hasn’t ran in 2 yrs. Ended up at 3rd mechanic shop where they failed to get it to run. Mechanic said it will not idle and when they do get it started it runs wide open. ♂️ First observation- 2 carburetors laying in floor board. No vacuum lines. No breather. Inspecting newest of the 2 carbs, I noticed the wires on electric enrichment solenoid were melted and fused together. Also noted connector was different than end that it goes to on truck, indicating they probably didn’t even connect it. Ordered and replaced solenoid. Also ordered some vacuum line. Upon replacing a few vacuum lines discovered vacuum lines going to EGR & Distributor broken off at the barb. Took a little research on this sight, but finally got vacuum lines figured out. Installed a new battery & fresh gas and it started up immediately. Drove it around and it ran good but a very rough ride. Lots of bouncing and clunking in front end. So to make it dependable and have confidence in it, I’m in process of completely rebuilding front end. This is where the story gets $$. Got all parts in and fun starts tonight.
I did something similar, but was in it for less money. Mine came with the dash in the seat, and the wiring in the bed. Steering column was out, but it did have the key. All the glass was in it, and it came with a title. A bit of unasked for advice:. That thing has been sitting for awhile. Take the fuel tank out, pull the fuel sender, and wash out the tank. Change the fuel filter(s), and dose new fuel with some sort of fuel stabilizer (Stabil) and some sort of fuel system cleaner (Berryman B12). Run hi-test fuel. 91 octane or higher (if you can get it). If you are running ethanol blend, you may have to richen the mixture a bit. Good luck!
For various reasons this has been a prolonged affair, but I’m almost there. -Rebuilt CV’s -New tie rod ends and supports -New brake lines and brakes -New tires and lift -New struts and springs -New fluids -New thermostat -New condenser fan relay -New radiator fan switch. It had been bypassed & hot wired to come on when key is on. -New fuel pump & filter -New vacuum lines -Correct sized fuses Troubleshooting- -Plastic hose barb on suction of pump collapsed due to nearly completely plugged fuel filter. -Rubber fuel line to carb had been forced into hose barb so that it had actually cut into the ID of hose and pushed it into hose barb severely blocking line. Previous owner & mechanics had tried to delete “un-needed” vacuum lines and left the “electric-choke “ unplugged. I routed them correctly, and replaced electric choke and it started right up. The carb is near impossible to adjust once installed. I had to remove carb a couple of times to adjust the choke plate. If choke plate not adjusted correctly, engine will bog when you first punch it by not opening choke plate fast enough. It will eventually open when the air velocity lifts the choke plate. There’s a sweet spot, but adjusting screw is a royal PITA! Some call electric device on carb an electric choke or solenoid, but technically it is neither. It doesn’t choke anything and there is no magnetic coil in it. It is an electric enrichment valve that is normally open and provides enrichment at start up. After startup an electric heating element heats up a wax plug and in about 2-3 mins (engine warmup period) it expands and pushes a needle down stopping enrichment. If valve malfunctions, valve stays open & you will have continuous excess enrichment. You will have to counter tune carb for excess. It can be jury-rigged to stay closed. Like anything else you can work around it. But it is so easy to just replace. You can delete nearly all vacuum lines, but at the expense of losing attributes of the carb design and engine. Next on list is positive traction.
Also noted engine didn’t have much top end speed. Troubleshooting carb I noted that when throttle was rotated, an end of a spring hit on choke plate adjusting screw preventing throttle from opening fully. I had to bend a piece to get it to clear and rotate fully. See pic
Definitely some limitations with a Tire/Spring Lift. 3” lift collapses joints on both ends of CV’s when you correct the camber. IMO, rough riding will take its toll.
Another FYI, the strut has 4” - 4.5” travel. That’s it. When you do a spring lift you’re taking away upward travel of strut. As spring pushes and fully extends strut up. Normally, travel should be centered to dampen 2” up & 2” down. Mine are fully extended, which allows only a downward dampening of the 4”. Opposite of bottoming out, it tops-out. Too soft springs allow bottoming & topping out both ways. My replacement springs are 450 I think. It’s stiff but I have to live with the limitations. I top out some, but it is better than a clunk both ways every time.
