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Oil type & How Much

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by agswin97, Jun 27, 2008.

  1. Little Dumper

    Little Dumper Member

    I haven't got my truck yet to see if there is room and I can't find any pics of that area. Will a long body version of the stock filtre fit in the space provided, not fatter, just longer?

    Picking up some filtres today.


    Jon.
     
  2. F6A

    F6A New Member

    does anyone tried 20w40?
     
  3. Little Foot

    Little Foot Member

    My 1992 Carry 660cc takes almost 3 liters(just over 3 US quarts) I use Valvoline full synthetic 10W30 in summer and Valvoline full synthetic 5W30 in winter. Oil filters AC Delco PF1233 or FRAM PH4967 which ever is closest or cheaper to my hand that day.
     
  4. Jessf

    Jessf Member

    Thought I'd bring this thread back online.

    I got my truck in the winter, it came with all new fluids, but I'd like to change them out and start fresh for the summer and to set a baseline.

    I've got 1990 Sambar, 94,000 km, no smoking and the engine runs like a champ. Should I switch to synthetic?

    I'm also looking to switch tranny fluid with something less viscous. I'm in southern Ontario so it gets cold enough here in the winter to justify switching to lighter thank stock tranny fluid, but I'm not sure where to start.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  5. Little Foot

    Little Foot Member

    When I switched to synthetic I thought I had made a mistake because it started burning oil but after adding 1 liter after 2000kms it kinda settled down and after the second oil change it's not burning oil anymore and the engine sounds a lot better now. Also when you look inside the valve cover the sludge is all gone now. I'm glad I switched now since I use synthetic in all vehicles. I have over 350,000Kms on my 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander and it still runs nice.
     
  6. Jessf

    Jessf Member

    what oil did you use?
     
  7. Little Foot

    Little Foot Member

    I use Valvoline Full synthetic 10W30. I will not try 5W30 again because I think it is too light for these engines. The reason for Valvoline is because this comes on sale often at Walmart, but it is a very good oil.
     
    KKVEGAS likes this.
  8. Pumper

    Pumper New Member

    Hey guys, I just bought a '94 carry and was planning on changing the oil and filter this weekend. What years go together? The link you gave the guy was talking about his '99, anyone know if they'll take the same? And I'll drive about 100 miles a day in mine, do you recommend the diesel oil (I live in Oklahoma and it'll hit 105-110F here). Thanks!
     
  9. spaner

    spaner Active Member

    Thanks for the Email Pumper.

    A case of too much information and too many opinions on the subject. The best part of the forum is that if you read everything that you can find about it, then you end up with a lot of good information and knowledge; the junk gets tossed out.

    One example would be that in crossing so many numbers, guys forgot to check SAE VS metric. A 3/4 16, will spin on just fine, but may blow off the mount. Has to be metric.

    Drain back valves, micron size, and larger filter media surface area.
    WIX seems to be one of the better ones.

    Oil. Three years I've been using "Quaker State[SUP]®[/SUP] Ultimate Durability™ Full Synthetic motor oil 5w 20 not cheap but very good and frees up HP, It's like water.

    I'll be doing mine again next week and I'll send you what I use on my 93 if you turn your PM's ON...
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2012
    vix@tion likes this.
  10. spaner

    spaner Active Member

    Just fun'in with guys, but nobody took the bait. It really is a metric. It's an M19x1.5...:p
    But, the 3/4x16 will do...
    I didn't get to do the whole "math-thing"...disappointment...:(

    Anyway, do'in an oil change. Thought I'd kill this subject dead, proper dead.

    Goals here: Better filter type, larger capacity for better cooling and filtration.
    Limits: Application-seal surface, component intrusion-front drive shaft and sits above cross member for obstruction clearance.

    Going with the WIX line. FYI, the site is very restrictive for modification search. The WIX product cross reference catalog is best. Had fun pulling units and switching stuff around at carquest. Had the whole discussion about volume vs micron vs by-pass vs hydraulic. My brain hurts now.

    This is what most guys are using, and you can enter the number into the search engine to return almost all of the threads here:


    [​IMG]


    But, off on my own again...this is what I used:


    [​IMG]


    Twice the capacity, and that's what I wanted. Not a guess, It's on the truck now.
    As far as the oil...they had a sale going on at carquest for the synthetic 5w20 @ $5/liter...made for, by Valvoline So, I'll use that to "flush out" for the start of the season. Although, I've never seen a cleaner engine, having run on the 100% synthetic Q for the last three years.

    I highly recommend this set-up for any turbo OEM or aftermarket...


    "The power of parts, compels you...the power of parts, compels you..."


    WIX-OilFilterTypical.jpg WIX-OilFilterSpaner.jpg
     
  11. Pumper

    Pumper New Member

    Thanks Spaner I appreciate it!
     
  12. LowLight

    LowLight New Member

  13. zeroduty

    zeroduty New Member

    Hi
    I have a 92 Hi jet that I use 0/30 synthetic oil in year round. If you are going to use this truck any amount in the winter, this is the only way to go. I also changed out the oil in the transmission, transfer case and differentials to a full synthetic transmission/ hydraulic fluid. You can actually start this thing at -30 without holding the clutch in. With the regular gear oil you would be lucky if the motor would even turn over let alone start at these temps.
     
  14. hatch

    hatch Member

    Question for you guys, I just rebuilt my engine and curious if I should start off with conventional oil like castrol 10w 30 with a zinc based break in oil or a full synthetic? Not real sure what to do here. Thanks
     
  15. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    I think the general consensus is start off with conventional for break in like you said then switch to synthetic.
     
  16. hatch

    hatch Member

    I purchased/ordered some lucas break in oil 20w 50, it has a high zinc content and it wasn't until i turned it over did i read not street legal. Im guessing its for really high performance engines. Will it hurt to use it or should i send it back?
     
  17. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    It wont hurt it but that's a heavy weight oil (and expensive). Personally I'd use cheap (as in penzoil, Valvoline, mobil) conventional 10w30 w/ break in additive and run it for 500 miles and then switch to 10w30 full synthetic.
     
  18. hatch

    hatch Member

    $7 qt but I can't seem to find a break in additive.
     
  19. R.B.

    R.B. New Member

    The 0W 30 sounds like a good idea. I use my '95 Carry as a daily driver. Bought on the Canadian May long weekend and put 3,000 km on in since then. I used Amsoil in my 6 li. GMC and never had problems with winter starts (never plugged in). Although I have a block heater in the Carry I don't plan to use it. I _do_ want to ensure that I have no winter start problems. One question, though: I have a four speed and drive it at speeds up to 90 kmh (sometimes 100 for a short while) while traveling back and forth to work. Would the 0 weight be sufficient for summer use?
     
  20. Big Ern

    Big Ern New Member

    I have to chime in here. First off I don't think a lot of people understand oil. The difference between 15w40 and 15w40 diesel is that the diesel has all the natural minerals in it for lubrication. Hence in marine application or breaking in the cam on a new rebuilt you use diesel grade oil or a break in additive for the first oil change. In marine application we stick with the oil due to the engine always under load and high revs. Also once you switch to synthetic oil you never, ever go back to non synthetic. In aircraft application and a good rule of thumb is if you have to add more than 20 percent of your oil capacity to top up your engine oil you actually should change the whole thing. Very strict rules for aviation. Take my opinion as you may.
     

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