Discussion in 'Mitsubishi Minicab' started by Jason Thorell, Mar 27, 2020.
That's great info Fred!
With the amount of rust you found I would expect the injectors, and everything else in the fuel system to have issues. And, if it sat for a while and fuel evaporated, the vapor canister would be included.
So, new injectors, and replaced the vapor canister.
the idle is smooth, but still no power.
also, the exhaust gets pretty damn hot. I can hear rpm changing / dropping with electrical load. So going to get a new battery.
also, I found the pvc valve connector was just barely sitting, not clipped down at all. Now if it’s getting undervolted, as well as the rest of the system, that would cause a bunch if issues as well. Yes/no?
After a new battery, I will be giving up, and handing to a real mechanic.
annnnnnndddd, nope, no difference.
I have a check engine light for a second when starting as well.
I don't remember, if you did a compression test?
No, as it drove perfect for 10 min, then all the power loss began.
the engine has 1800 km on it, so a brand new vehicle.
So after you install a new battery, make sure your alternator is charging, by testing it, and take a compression test. If you don't have the testing equipment needed, you can rent them for free from your local auto parts stores! You can still have a problem with a newer motor! Don't assume because it's newer, that your power loss can't be coming from the motor itself, and it's from the components! Don't give up, now is the time to dig in, and test, and eliminate things! Seriously, I know it's frustrating, but this is a great time to learn! You will get it! Trust me! Listen, in the end, it's your money. Were just trying to help!
so, it was a faulty plug. likely the fuel injectors, rails, charcoal canister were all fine. Going to try and offload this thing ASAP, too many vehicles sitting around.
Just what Fred was suggesting!
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