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Not sure where to start diagnosis 2002 U62t 2000km on truck

Discussion in 'Mitsubishi Minicab' started by Jason Thorell, Mar 27, 2020.

  1. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member


    I have a 2002 u62t, with only 1800 km on it. All original parts, everything is spotless. Engine is spotless, oil is clean, coolant is clean, spark plugs are clean....

    But, the low fuel light is on the the dash, and it is completely full.

    I was driving for ten minutes, then it sputtered.. and now it barely wants to move. Temperature never spiked.

    Once home in garage, there was a heavy fuel smell, but not externally, through the exhaust, and when opening the oil cap.

    I pulled the plugs, and they were wet with fuel.


    I am going to drain, and drop the tank tommorow to inspect for corrosion (it could have been sitting empty for years), and to inspect / replace the fuel level sending unit.

    This is literally a brand new vehicle, so it has to be something simple.
  2. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    The corrosion in the tank is a good place to start. And, if you have a helper, it may be easier to get at the tank from the top, by pulling the bed off.

    If you find corrosion in the tank, a small bit of rust may have gotten past the fuel filters and into the carb, to end up in the needle and seat. This will keep them form sealing tight, and the carb ends up flooded.
    Jason Thorell and Limestone like this.
  3. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    well there is currently the ex fire service apparatus still on the bed (my profile picture is legit), and there are three fuel injectors and a fuel rail, so I am guessing it is fuel injected.

    May as well pull out the injectors and inspect them too.
  4. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    Pretty neat rig! Yeah I do agree with Jigs. If you did have to pull that bed. Looks like the easiest way, is to remove bolts, jack it up, and roll it out from underneath. See that wasn't so bad right? I do agree with checking all the injectors. Good Luck!
  5. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    Well the fuel tank looks perfect, so clearly no problem there........

    The entire bottom of tank is flaked rust (had a photo of it, but won't let me upload, saying too large file)

    The fuel level sending unit is completely seized

    The pump is completely knackered top to bottom

    So, now try to source some parts!

  6. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    That makes sense now why the gauge was showing full. Check out the other posts on the forum, there have been many, with the same issues. Some found replacement parts, others used alternative aftermarket fuel pumps. You have options.
  7. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    well, I am not having any luck finding a oem replacement, but, it was sending fuel through.

    I am going to clean, and seal the tank, then try to refurbish the items. Reverse electrolysis can be very persuasive!
  8. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    That's what I wound up doing! Giving everything a good cleaning, especially that filter bag! Mine didn't have that. It had a small, maybe 1 1/2 dia. plastic with stainless steel mesh screen incorporated within it making up the filter! I was able to remove the tank, sending unit, but that dog gone little plastic, meshed filter was attached to the end of the suction side of the steel tube in the tank. I was able to gently bend the steel tube towards the sending unit opening, that dog gone little filter was stubborn, and did not want to come off! I have a collection of long (18") medical pliers where the surgeons use them to get inside their patients and do what they need to. These are straight, with the last inch or so open and close like an alligators mouth! I was able to grab that thing and remove it clean it up and re install it as needed! What are you going to seal the tank with? I used Eastwood's fuel tank sealer kit for about $50 bucks, then sprayed Black Encapsulator on the outside of the tank. It looks nice, plus I can paint over the top of it if I choose to! Eastwood has a pretty good sale right now with everything going on, plus their always discounting something!(No I don't have any stock in em!) LOL! Think about what Jigs said, a small piece of rust might have gotten past the filter and into the carb. jets! He brings up a good point! I replaced all my fuel lines, just because you don't know what the inside of them look like! Plus mine were old. Think about what caused the rust in the bottom of the tank! Water, condensation! Fuel is oil based, water is heavier, it goes to the bottom of the tank, always!!! As for the sending unit, I etched mine with Muratic acid, rust desolver, and bingo, like magic the rust is gone! then I sealed the bare metal with the fuel tank kit made for fuel/gas!!! Good Luck!
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2020
  9. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    I gave the tank a cook for half of yesterday, emptied it back out, will have to wait a bit, as it is back to negative 15 degrees celcius this week.

    I used one anode, but I am going to put an anode in each tank opening next run, should be able to run it for a week and it should be mint.

    I got a full new pump assembly and sending unit on the way from a Japanese wrecker. Was about $250 Canadian, which was a better deal than buying just the pump motor from the other forum post link, it would have cost me nearly $400, and I would have to re-use the pressure regulator.

    Found the exact mitsubishi pump, but it was going to be two months, or more in shipping.

    Likely could have pulled a pump from a motorbike, or small car, but still would have to use my existing sealed pressure regulator.
  10. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    Nice, keep chuckin!
  11. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    Got my new parts from Japan already, faster than shipping from the US most of the time! Got the full factory assembly, and a brand new fuel level sender for the cost of shipping $35 Cdn. My importer covered the parts for me, and he didn't have to, was above and beyond.
    Limestone likes this.
  12. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    okay. So things are still not good.

    I replaced the fuel pump, and completely reconditioned the tank.

    I pulled the injectors and blew carb cleaner through them, while pulsing them with voltage.

    I checked the injectors resistance, and all three are within range and the same.

    I put a plug tester light between the plugs and coils, and it appears to be flashing correctly.

    But, alas....rough idle, and gutless, will not accelerate past 40 kph.

    So it still drives exactly the same as when I pushed the bad fuel through.

    Any more ideas? just start replacing more parts, or attempt to find a mechanic willing to dive in?
  13. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    Is there an additional in line fuel filter? I didn't notice, if you mentioned it, in your post! Are your fuel lines, open, clear flowing? What about the return fuel line to the tank? Make sure that's free flowing! Is your fuel cap creating a vaccum, and not allowing the fuel to flow freely? When you try to accelerate, what does it do? Cough? Sputter? Choke? Spark + fuel + combustion! Correct! So you have spark, and your getting fuel, but how much fuel? But it seems like your having some sort of fuel restriction! So when your sitting still, and you try to hammer down on the throttle, without moving,(neutral). Is there hesitation, like I would expect, is it coughing, and spitting, possibly backfiring? How much is your new fuel pump putting out? It is possible, to get a bad new one! Just trying to help, my friend! Don't give up, we've all been there! Good Luck!
  14. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    Awesome questions, thanks For your time.

    I am going to pull the fuel line, and turn on the ignition to see the flow, was also going to pop in a fuel pressure tester.

    I topped up the tank, in limp mode, last night. And, I did get a whoosh of air at the fuel filler neck when I opened the cap. Which was strange to me, as the fuel level is mechanical, and the pump system is an non return in tank pressure regulated. There is a breather cap on the top, perhaps it is fuckered as well.

    I played with disconecting injectors and running / starting. And, my injector closest to the front of vehicle, and furthers along the fuel rail, made no difference to starting / running / idling, But, the other two did make it run much rougher.

    This is an annoying problem, as it's a brand new small engine, with nearly zero tech. The solution should be simple.

    oh, no extra filters, just the oem lines, which I ensured were clear.
  15. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Clogged vapor canister?
    Limestone likes this.
  16. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    like, how important is said vapor canister? this is basically a quad engine, and those just vent to atmosphere
  17. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    They capture the vapors when the vehicle sets in a charcoal medium. then when you are running they pull air through the charcoal to evapoarate the vapors and pull them into the engine.

    When they clog, you get a high vacuum at the fuel tank.
  18. Jason Thorell

    Jason Thorell New Member

    Ok, well likely there is a clogged can, as I do get vacuum at the tank. But, I still feel it may be a dead injector, or jammed up fuel rail.

    did a video. Shows the rough idle, and the zero effect on engine with unplugged foremost injector vs second injector nearly kills, as it is likely just one cylinder at that point

  19. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    It is possible, that you are experiencing more than one problem. Pay me now or pay me later! LOL! Preventative maintenance, says take care of both, with the can first, then test those injectors again! That video sure looks like those two injectors are acting up! Maybe a dirty canister contributed to helping those injectors to foul out, and fail!
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
  20. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Active Member

    The no-RPM-drop could also be caused by no spark as well as no fuel delivery to that cylinder, need to ensure which it is.

    Limestone likes this.

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