L, im down in Gallia County (45631) we have the golf cart style stickers down here & i hear they are gonna include mini's with an inspection in 2020. currently my "road" trips are to the gas station at the bottom of the hill from our place. getting fuel for tractors & such with it & the rest of the time its on our little hobby farm. we keep orange triangle on her... but looking at switching over to farm use tags. s
SDK, Great news, I didn't know that! Same here, I'll run it into an enclosed trailer, and run it out to our farm/hunting camp in northern PA. Limestone
limestone I am following this and the thread that covers engine starts and the dies after warm up.. have verified that the fuel cut selenoid works with external power check.... is this hot when key is on or after engine warms....????? i am going to spend some time in the fuse box..... thankyou lou
Lou, Yes, it was hot during start and run. When you turn the key off, it is not hot, therefore shutting fuel off at solenoid! Limestone
Limestone Thankyou,,,, in the several threads that are covering this problem the info is on both side of the function.... today pulled back wire loom and fabed jumers. Will apply 12v and observe results. all fuses are good so will end up chasing the wires to source of lack of power to fuel x out selenoid. lou 1997- s110p- EFGS- twin cam -elec Ignition -AC -Auto trans....and no brakes......
Limestone Shorthand ' fabricated ' Yeah no luck,,,, failed test.... still dies after warm up.... carbs coming out... lou
Lou, I'm real happy with the aftermarket carb., that I put in. I have a left hand drive, so I put the manual choke, out of the way, but behind my left knee, so it would be easier to feather the choke, in if needed, while my right hand is starting the ignition! Limestone
update,,, progress nah..... carburetor out.... Sonic screwdriver used three times.... * fuel inlet float bowl filter total plugged with gunk, needle valve rubber rotten...... * accelerator pump fuel passage plugged..... * Low speed idle backed out completley. * Visual evidence of leaking around intake side of biscut spacer, instead of fiber gasket a cut in o-ring type of seal flat from age,, seating surface has nuberous dimples from tool impact ?????? I had previously removed fuel tank containing 5 gal of 'lemonade visually' gas. Did not try to start until fuel was a clean source... Would preferr replacement carburetor, as opposed to ressurecting this train wreck..... ef-gs carburetor is different in many aspects from older units.... lou 1997-s110p -R_Hand drive -EFGS -twin cam -elec Ignition -elec fuel pump -AC -Auto trans....and no brakes......
Lou, Hang in there buddy, don't give up on her yet! Remember, these things don't like today's fuel. I like to use fuel conditioner. Stabilize that ethanol! Mine had no brakes when I got her also. Fixed that last year, and working on the rest of her! Limestone
he is a more dedicated man than me. crappy carb aggravated me until it was thrown away. now the sponge brakes thing? im still playing with that part. new booster, new master cylinder, new brakes all teh way around & no leaks.. bled them a dozen times... STILL sponges.
SDK, What about the wheel cylinders, those dog gone things being aluminum, are corrosive to the point that fluid will leak around those seals slightly, enough to give it that spongy feel! My father in law taught me a trick yrs. ago about putting a light film of petroleum jelly around the rubber seals. Not only does it rejuvenate the rubber, but it also helps to seal it of, and being petroleum based it won't hurt anything. Been using it for yrs. Limestone
cant "see" anything leaking & not losing fluid... but the cylinder seals could be bad, cause they will pump up. they just dont stay up. any US side cylinders available for these?
SDK, I got mine from Todd @ Proline parts. The front wheel cylinders are hard to find and pricey, like every other part that we find on these things. The rear's are a little more common. I just got them both from him and moved on! Limestone
If you’re a machinist, you can ream out the stock ones, and insert stainless liners. There are places that specialize in doing it for classic and collector cars. When I was in college, I did a set for the Lab Tech’s 59 Chevy one ton. After that he gave me the keys to the machine shop, and let me do whatever I wanted. These guys would probably sleeve the stock slave cylinders https://www.applehydraulicsonline.com/collections/sleeving And, they might change the bore slightly so you could use a common kit for a Toyota, for the seals.
Jigs, That's good info. Mine were corroded too bad too do that. So I bit the the bullet and bought new ones. It is something to consider though, as the front wheel cylinders are a little hard to find, and ten times the cost of what I call normal wheel Cylinders! Limestone
wow time flies when you are trying to clean a dirty carburetor . Ultrasound failed, a week of solvent dip failed. New carburetor arrived, wrong wax choke assembly and no linkage for AT down shift linkage. Easy pull from old carburetor. choke assy blocks throttle movement. Back to old carburetor for choke assy. Hours lost on swap. All hooked up now , prepping fuel tank for reinstall. Two studs broken, drill and tap... I have a spare line from from fuel tank up to engine? It was plugged with a bolt...... no apparent place to plumb into..... lou
The extra line is probably a fuel return line which ran from the fuel pump back to the tank. The mechanical fuel pump contains a pressure blow off valve so excess pressure/fuel is returned to the tank. When I switched over to an electric fuel pump, I installed a bolt in the line back at the tank to block it. Because, the tank would pressurize when it hated up during the day, and vent fuel onto the top of the engine. I cut it back at the tank, and installed a 5X50-mm bolt in the cut off line, and put two hose clamps on it. The fuel no longer leaks out, and the vapor is going to the charcoal canister.
Lou, Pretty frustrating dealing with the carbs. on these things! Been there, and hoping to not return! Limestone
sorry didn't include tag line. Elec fuel pump is original to vehicle, replaced with after market part. Interesting the wire harness is three wires, 1-hot, and 2-ground wires. New carb is installed, started and died after mere seconds, not even warmed up. Back to the beginning. No power to fuel cutout solenoid . When key is on I hear the vacuum switch on top click, will check to see if it is feeding out 12V. Is there any other interlocks that have to trip. Feeding power to solenoid does not bypass problem. It ran longer with bad carb. lou 1997-s110p -R_Hand drive -EFGS -twin cam -elec Ignition -elec fuel pump -AC -Auto trans....and no brakes......
Two grounds and shot, could indicate that it is ground switched like the headlights are. On the Headlights, they feed the hot to what would normally be the ground terminal, and then run the hots to the switch, so which beam is on, depends on what ground leg is completed. The Japanese seem to do a lot of ground controlled circuits. The two grounds might be one to the start position of your ignition, and the other to the run. And, they could go through all kinds of sensors and switches on the way there.
Lou, Jigs is spot on! I wound up testing and recording everything that I was doing, because it wasn't making sense to me, how the electrical was done on this thing! To me it's pretty unconventional, how these things are wired. By not being able to find the right schematic for my 89, Diihatsu, hijet. I just redid the electrical and checked and re checked everything, recording it along the way, and making up my own schematic! It took a while but like I have said in the past. It is a hobby vehicle, and I don't have to have it. My situation, might vary from others. It's a lot harder when it's an every day driver, that you depend on. Limestone
Jigs and LImestone....... Chased the fuel pump wire, On one hot and ground - Turned on key no fuel pump action.... On one hot and second ground Key on and pump runs. So both grounds are now Connected to fuel pump ground lead. Started and died , residual gas in line. Added gas and started and died on warm up. Progress, Vacuum switch has a 3-wire harness, and is not the source of clicking sound when key is turned on. The connection is a Computer data configuration terminal connector. started and ran till warm up while not connected. Next was back to the Fuel cutout solenoid, no power to connector, weeks ago I had a .7 VDC reading. Frustration, I started the engine it ran till warm up and died. Now I have 12 VDC, it persists untill I turn off the key. Repeat to duplicate the results..... Check...... So it started and ran not connected....... untill warm up and died. lou 1997-s110p -R_Hand drive -EFGS -twin cam -elec Ignition -elec fuel pump -AC -Auto trans....and no brakes......
a further clarification on the fuel pump wires, Both of the ground wires read continuity to ground. Does the second wire set a relay to energize the fuel cutout solenoidl?????????? lou 1997-s110p -R_Hand drive -EFGS -twin cam -elec Ignition -elec fuel pump -AC -Auto trans....and no brakes......
Lou, On mine it did! I had three relays, that were all tied together! That really boggled my mind, and an electrical check valve if you will, diode, that would only allow juice to flow one way. Mine doesn't have the original Ignition switch, and I kept loosing ground, after the truck would fire up, she wouldn't keep running, because I kept loosing ground, I ran an additional ground wire, from the switch, run or on terminal(ignition), not the acc., or start, terminals, to the three relay system, where it was needed. Still doesn't make sense how a truck was running, then all of a sudden, loses ground, and wouldn't stay running because of it! But, I know, I could make it work, by doing it! By reverse testing, with several test lights, jumper reel wires, and using the test lights as grounds, and many, many, many, hours!!! Additionally, I added extra grounding cables, like others have in the past. From frame to, battery, then starter to the frame, common sense stuff. During all this, the original carb. decided to act up, just to complicate things! I was able to finally figure things out, that, I still don't understand why!CRAZY! Limestone
A vehicle I have never seen before, A factory manual written for a Savant, portions that are ef-gs specific are on the low side of next to none. What is the fuel pressure output for an electric pump????????? I have stewart warner pressure regulator inline that was set to 3.5 , when I bought the creature. I have been bumping it up as I play. at 5 psi there was a hint of improvement. Last stop on adjustment was end of travel , Guess What, it now runs......... BWAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAaaa. lou 1997-s110p -R_Hand drive -EFGS -twin cam -elec Ignition -elec fuel pump -AC -Auto trans....and no brakes......
you got luck..I got squat. Running up to warm for oil change, Water pump blew.... I think..... lou 1997-s110p -R_Hand drive -EFGS -twin cam -elec Ignition -elec fuel pump -AC -Auto trans....and no brakes......
C'mon Lou, Push forward, and get her done! The water pump won't be that bad. Just make sure you double check, the other parts to go along with the pump. Timing belt, belt tensioner, and Thermostat.Good time to flush that radiator, before you refill it. Hey, Buddy , I'm up north of you in Ohio, And Rootin hard for you! Limestone
Limestone I had my suspicions , when I squeezed the water hose water was coming out at bottom from plastic cover.. Twin cam water pump will not interfere with cam timing belt. But will not come out without pulling crankshaft pulley and plastic shroud cover. Pump was dry, not the problem , a tiny glimpse , led to removing alternator. Bingo.... Poor choice for material ( a plastic nylon elbow on this hose) don't yet know what this feeds to..... lou 1997-s110p -R_Hand drive -EFGS -twin cam -elec Ignition -elec fuel pump -AC -Auto trans....and no brakes......
