I thought you had a valid point. Maybe it's just a matter of timing for someone to get out and shoot a new video. Time will tell.
I have not tested the kits by hooking two trucks together because I don't have two trucks. I have tested on rocky hills and in the mud. To really get in the mud I used the upper end of a pond. I started in the mud just out of the water. I would drive in the same ruts. The ruts became 6 to 8 inches deep. When driving slow in 2 wheel drive, I would get stuck. When I went to 4 wheel drive it would get out. Allan
I see. .... Well maybe somebody can do that, it would be interesting to see.. Have you hooked your truck up to a tree while the trucks is in dirt, gravel,etc... ??? That would be interesting to see also...
dif locks for 91 subaru sambar Do you have any idea where I can find kits to convert my rear ends to limited slip?? Or what do you think of welding the back diff only?
LSD Kits for Subaru Sanbar Where can I buy kits to convert the front and back diffs to limited slip???
lsd for my Sambar Do you have kits for the Subaru Sambar available? mine is a 1991 My number is 780-904-3119 Gil
Allan, I see you sell limited slip for suzuki[94], is that pre or post 94, i would be interested in a 99 kit
Allan how do we contact you regarding the lsd kits for mini's. I am definitely interested in a rear kit possibly front also
92 suzuki Is there any way of knowing which front diff I have in my 92 suzuki without tearing it apart? I would love a front lsd kit for mine but I may have the type with 4 spider gears..im not sure. Do some 92 suzukis have only 2 spider gears in the front? Also is there someone out there who has lsd front and back?
How much is shipping and how do we order them? Do these make the steering wheel a little bit harder to turn if you put one in front?
Hope you don't take this wrong -- But if you read the whole thread it would save you from having to post questions that have already been answered. --Price 295.00 front or rear. shipping and ins. 15.00 (post #29) --Steering with front LSD installed, discussed by Dan (post #38) --Allen - who sells these is located in Clinton, Al. Phone #205-755-4094 (post #35/73) --Link to photos of installation process (by Dan) (post #7) --various links to videos of pre/post installation testing (by Dan) (post #'s 14, 41 and 45) Hope this helps.........later, slim
Anymore info on these LSD's. I have a 98 Hijet Jumbo and was looking for more traction. Any more info on the LSD would be great.
Welding the Diff IMO, I think if your "ONLY" using it off road welding the diff should be fine. HOWEVER only with someone that really knows what they are welding and how. (cast parts can 'shatter' then your totally hosed) anyhow, just about every single ATV/UTV (that we compair to MiniTrucks) have a solid rear diff. You will have more tire wear, and I would NEVER drive on pavement and be very carefull on any kind of road. Your a lot longer than any of the other UTV's and could easily fishtail. Other than that, I wish I had a perfect clear, one stop answer on the Axle / Diff lock. I have seen other posts suggesting Axle lock is 'Diff Lock' for the front. Seems to me the Suzuki Carry Lists 2wd 4wd Hi/Lo Axle and Diff lock this would imply to me what I have seen in other posts about Axle lock, why would they call it that, and not the normal 2wd/4wd? My 2Cents, and hopefully I don't get flamed too bad for it. I have a Toyota bush truck with a welded diff running a set of 31" tires with chains that has been fine now for... 5-6 years.
I agree on the welding the rear. I think that is where I am at now. I rarely if ever drive my truck on the road, and if so its gravel. Having 3wd instead of 2wd in my 4wd will be a world of difference back in the woods. There are dealers here who claim having Diff Lock rear ends available for swapping in, yet none of them ever reply. Worse case scenario my rear end goes bad from being welded, I am gonna have to buy another one anyways. And very good point on the UTV's having posi-track. And guys drive them all over the paved roads all the time. But yes, I wouldnt with a mini for lists of reasons. Axle Lock does Not have anything to do with "locking" the front axle or any axle, as in Diff Lock or "solid axle" or "posi track" as usually refered. Axle lock takes the place of manual locking hubs. Instead of having to get out and manual lock your hubs to the ends of the axles, it is done automatically. Many people advertise "with axle lock" like it means something special, some even go as far to imply it is something specifically special (posi track). It is Not. On a Suzuki Carry you can disconnect the Axle Lock switch located on the transfer case handle. Then you can utilize LOW range (4wd low/lo) without actually being in 4WD , until you push the AXLE LOCK button located on the dash. The purpose for the button on the dash is simply for "shift on the fly", you push it, then can shift the transfer case into 4WD HIGH/HI on the fly (letting of the gas of course). NOTE do NOT attempt to shift into 4WD LOW/LO until at a complete STOP. Transfer case can be shifted into 2wd hi , 4wd hi, 4wd lo, and Neutral. All the transfer case does is send the power from the engine/transmission to the front and rear differential. The differentials are then receiving power equally. The rear Differential can then be locked by applying the Diff Lock feature which utilizes a diaphram to engage it. The front differential can NOT be locked. Other wise there would be a spearate button labeled "FRONT DIFF LOCK" . The front axle is then locked by utilizing the AXLE LOCK feature, which locks the axles to the front hubs/tires/wheels, sending the power from the transfer case to the 2 front tires. All of the above features if equipped, work independently of each other .
Agree, trouble is, there are a zillion different ways 4wd has been implemented by dozens of manufacturers, so its never a simple answer. To help clarify yet another manufacturer's term for yet another method of implementing 4wd (as it turns out is nearly identical to my tacoma's 4wd)... Diff lock is Diff lock. Axle lock is not Diff lock. Axle lock "like" hub lock. However, Axle lock happens in the front diff, not front hubs. (hence Axle lock name, not hub lock name). EDIT: On another note, most Hub locks need to complete a full rotation (both wheels) to engague. Meaning, if you are already stuck and try to lock the front axles... it may not go well for you... Not sure if the same is true for axle lock
If i may recap this statement (please correct if wrong)... The procedure to accomplish shift on the fly must be in this order, or yull grind em good! 1. From a COMPLETE STOP, shift vehicle into 4WD High This locks the front drive shaft to the transfer case and engages the axles inside the front diff. 2. Now hit the Axle lock button that is now lit up on your dash (it lit up automatically when you shifted into 4WD High). This makes it go off again. This disengages the axles from the front diff, while leaving the front drive shaft engaged to the transfer case. 3. Now w/ out stopping, you "should" be able to hit the litle axle lock button and shift that bad boy into 4wd w/ out stopping. But dont mess w/ the 4WD handle, all it is doing now is attaching your transfer case to the front differential. This is why you cant on the fly 4 low... B/c you cant on the fly your transfer case, but you can on the fly your axle lock mechanism. EDIT: IndianaJason, if this is correct, this procedure should work in 4WD low also. Allowing on the fly shift from 2WD-LOW to 4WD-LOW.
Diff / Axle Lock Thanks IndianaJason and o8k, So Axle lock is basicly an automated way of the old manual locking hubs, or for the most part the same way just about every single NorthAmerican vehical goes into 4wd today. The perk would be that you could go into 4wd Low without having the Axle lock and have 2wd Low range (perhaps only good for backing up heavy trailers on pavement, or... smoke show in a mini Can anyone confirm that Diff Lock on a Suzuki is actual locked diff... As in one (rear) wheel in the air one on rock, both wheels will turn at exactly the same rate?
I dont believe Jeep uses this method. My liberty front diff, and drive shaft were always as one! The lever just locked the whole front into the tx case. EDIT: if your rolling along in 2WD, you could peek under and see the front drive shaft spinning away freely Cool! Ill say no more... I have a Suzuki Carry, yes the diff lock is diff lock, no tricks!
Not wanting to infringe on Intelectual Property here, but this kit appears to be a Clutch type. I would find it advantagous to know this for the sake of maintenence, how to properly use (how to exploit it's stregnths), and how not to abuse (how to avoid it's weaknesses). For example, from the WIKI (Limited Slip Differential article): Another thought, some LSD's require addative of some kind, would this be true for this kit as well?
Did you check Dan's vids? In a couple you can pretty clearly see one rear wheel spinning like crazy while the other sits still with open diff and then both spitting gravel with the lsd kit installed. I haven't driven a mini with an LSD kit in it but I've driven plenty of other cars with them. They make a world of difference in traction and handling in any type of conditions. When I get my mini the first mod before anything else will be to install front and rear LSD kits.
I almost feel like im spamming this thread, but i think this is noteworthy info: Wonder if this kit can be closely modeled to one of these stated below... More from the WIKI about LSDs http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential
If memory serves this type of LSD is a friction-based clutchless 1 way LSD. I could be mistaken though.
