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Lifting a Suzuki

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by JRinTX, Jun 1, 2007.

  1. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    I am about to start my lift!
    Does anyone have any warnings?
    I like the allum spacer on the drive shaft.
    I also like the droping the front dif and steering pivot the same amount!
    I am planning on adding a 2' X 4' of 1/2" plate steel to the underside of the cab all the way out to under the plastic bumper!
    My wife had a bad accident last Jan and I would be afraid of hitting a Deer at 60mph and surviving!
     
  2. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Active Member

    You asked for any warnings, so I will submit this:

    Do you realize that a 2' X4' of 1/2 plate is somewhat over 600 Lbs of added wt on the front end? Being on a flat plane if under the floorboard it will become a knife edge to anything you hit with any amount of speed. My 2nd Wife was killed instantly when a horse ran out in the road back in 1987. The impact broke all 4 legs but the entire body was high enough that it came over the hood and crushed the whole top of the car down on her and crushed her skull bad enough that she was unrecognizable & I had to have her Cremated. Sorry to be a bit graphic about it but it is fact. The deer you are thinking of is not nearly as heavy but still the major weight(body) is elevated enough that a plate under the floor will not do you any good as a crush zone for a collision and it will more than likely wind up coming through the windshield anyway.

    Just something for you to consider & think about.

    Fred
     
  3. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    Sorry to hear Fred!
    But what I want is something substantial to bolt the front brush guard too!
    The one I have on it now is the very minimum!
    I went as light as possible! Assuming this was just a UTV! I was wrong, it is really a truck!
    I am still thinking of switching the steering wheel over too?
     
  4. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    OK here is my next step in my lift?
    If I just put the rear end on top of the leaf springs and add a leaf while Im at it, the rear drive shaft is now an inch too short!
    I Plan on making 2 x 4 square 1/4" stock into spacers. I was just going to get 2" longer bolts, but what if I bolt the spacer in the stock location and then add a welded in bolt BACK an inch to move everything to the rear! This would include the mount for the front suspension and the upper dif mount!
    I plan on a large 1/2" plate steel across under the cab floor, so moving the front radius arms down and back no big deal!
    I would gain an inch more clearance on the bottom of the front doors?

    What would be the worst that will happen? I have to make the shift cables longer?
    I may have to do something like that anyway if I move the steering wheel?
     
  5. Wheelie

    Wheelie Member

    Just did my 2" eBay lift. Had to reset the toe but camber and caster seem the same. Definitely can't go higher without dropping cradle and diffs due to driveline and CV angles being near maxed. Add my 24" tires and that will give me 4" total lift. I noticed that the eBay lift doesn't raise the rear as high as the front but oh well.
     
  6. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member


    91 Suzuki Carry it's the same truck I have and the same size tire I'm trying to put on, you mentioned 2.5" front spacers and a 250 # spring, how about 300# would that help ? Also, what add a leaf did you buy ? And shackles ? The wheels I have are 14x6 +38 offset with a 5 backspace, you mentioned 5+2 being no good, is that what these are ? And what issues would they cause ? Appreciate any insite you can give me !
     
  7. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    I haven't measured any of my rims, but they are all stock from a Swift and a Nissan Sentra!
    Im still up in the air about what springs?
    I think I may go 300#?
     
  8. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member

    I talked to a guy today, he mentioned 250 and 300 will give you the same amount of lift, just a stiffer ride on the 300. He also said these trucks came with 2 different length shocks ? 12" and 10" so you need to measure before you order, and he recomended a combination of shackles and blocks in the rear. But he says that will only fit 25's. I wish I knew exactly what fierce used to get the 27's under there ?
     
  9. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    Those are 25's under my truck in my avatar pic!
     
  10. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member


    Do you think you could squeeze 27's under your setup ?
     
  11. Cole

    Cole Member

    Blocks won't help you in the rear. The axle is underslung. You have to convert it to overslung by adding new spring perches ontop of the axle. It gives you about 4-1/2" in the rear. I also have 2-1/2" spacers in the front with 300# springs. Also did a full subframe/ diff drop and lowered the engine and trans 2" to keep good driveshaft angles. I also run 25" and they rub a bit. Need to do a bit of trimming. You would have to have a lot more lift to fit 27".


     
  12. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member


    Yes I planned on moving the axle under the springs, thats what I meant, then blocks to level with the front. So you used 2-1/2" blocks then dropped subframe and differential basically the same amount, 2-1/2 " to compensate for angles ? When you do that drop you also pick up another 2-1/2" of lift, correct ? If you look back to page 7 of this thread, you will see a member ( Fierce ) sounds like he did the same as you and has a pic of his truck with 27's !
     
  13. Cole

    Cole Member

    In the front you only get as much lift as the size of spacer you put above the strut. Dropping the subframe doesn't lift the truck and more. It just brings the CV angles back to stock (or close). It also corrects camber and unstuffs the CV's. I built my own spacers without any camber correction because when lowering the sub frame you want everything to go completely vertically down. No changes in angle. I could only drop the subframe and engine/trans 2". Mainly because the shift cables weren't long enough for 2-1/2". Also the front sub frame needed to stay at the same height with respect to the engine crossmember so the drive shaft would clear.

    In all I have a 1/2" increase in the front over stock which is nothing considering guy and go 2" without issues.

    As far a tires you need to make sure that the actual OD is correct. I have 25" that measure 24-3/4" and that's about max. I know some tire will say 27" but in reality be 26" or even less. They are never exact. In fact almost always measure under.
     
    mtnxtreme likes this.
  14. Cole

    Cole Member

  15. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member

    Quote from Fierce on Page 7 of this thread : "I have a total of 7.5 inches of lift with lift and tires, everything is correct, camber, toe along with both front and rear pinion angles. Goes down the road great, 55mph hands off the wheel stays going straight as an arrow. I don't think I've done anything new here by any means but I have 27s on it with no issues all parts fabbed up by me and all work done in one long day with my 14 year old son.
    Best part is it will roll 55 w no issue at all and the RPMS are in check now. Drives way way better. Had it to 65mph today no issue other than me not being 100% comfortable with it lol.

    Rear axle spring swap, 2.5 strut spacers, 250 lb American made springs, modified cross member to clear front shaft, lowered front diff cross member 3 inches and adjustable front diff mounts for pinion angle adjustability in case I decide to go higher. Fenders are massaged. Tires are 27x8.5xR14 on 14x7 beadlocks with 4+3 off set NOT 5+2, 5+2 would have caused all sorts of issues no doubt."
     
  16. Cole

    Cole Member

    I am betting those 27" measure closer to 25".
     
  17. Cole

    Cole Member

    Driveshaft angles are pretty extreme without lowering the entire drivetrain if you are going to do an axle flip. Not to mention the shafts are too short. I had to machine spacers to keep the proper spline enguagement. When I do things I like to do I properly so I will never have issues down the road. You can throw lots of lift in pretty quickly but in order to make all your joints last it takes a bit more work to do it right.
     
  18. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member


    Just looked on Maxxis site, 26.3 inches tall.
     
  19. mtnxtreme

    mtnxtreme Member


    Is all the info in your write up ?
     
  20. warrined

    warrined New Member

    I have a 1996 Suzuki carry-all and I am running a 4 inch lift with 27x9x12 zilla tires with no problems, I used 2 1/2 inch pipe and sloped it the same as a purchased 2 inch lift, yes with this size tires it is under powered but I only use it in the bush and mud roads so speed is not a problem
     

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