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Lifting a Suzuki

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by JRinTX, Jun 1, 2007.

  1. upgarage

    upgarage New Member

    ok, excuse me for thinking out side the square a bit here but why cant i just increase the length of the lower control arm?

    this will effectively fix camber and "unstuff" the lower control arms
     
  2. Greg n TN

    Greg n TN New Member

    Sowsticker,

    I have 185/65R14 tires and just lifted my truck 2", but the right side is still rubbing when I cut the tires - on my concrete drive way. I'm guessing its going to much worse when bouncing across the field. So my question is, when you talk about "trimming fenders", is it as simple as marking it off and cutting with a sawsall? The fender has an inside lip for strength, do you just cut that off and not worry about it? I've looked around, and haven't found where someone said how they trimmed. Thanks for any info or suggestions, Greg
     
  3. Ellyka89

    Ellyka89 New Member

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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012
  4. Greg n TN

    Greg n TN New Member

    Xroads,

    I have a 95 carry and installed a 2" lift and experienced the same problem as many others. When backing up, the camber is so bad that the tires ride on the edge. I made a bracket to lower the lower control arms, but that changed the camber too much the other way. I've read there is a 'more workable' lift for the front that will help with the camber. Do you have them for sale? Thank you, Greg
     
  5. mwood

    mwood New Member

    3" Lift kit on 92 Carry

    P8010014.JPG P8010011.JPG P5310106.JPG P5230088.JPG P5280097.JPG P5310104.JPG DSCN0106.JPG P5280096.JPG P5280095.JPG I put a 3: lift on my 92 Carry. It worked fine with no binding. It wasn't exactly Simple I had to do little wending and cuting. I bought a 3" kit off Ebay. I used the Spacers on the front but thought the super long shackles looked hoaky and just flipped the rear axle. That required buying and redrilling new spring perches. When I dropped the axle I lost some drive line length and had to redrill the new perches to move the axle forward an inch. I also had to cut off and reweld the parking brake cable bracket and relocate the lower shock mounts. On the fronts I also added 250 rate coils which reduced the front end bounce and dip. To compesate for the added suspension angle I used spacers and longer bolts ( 12mm X 80mm fine ) to lower the front x-member 2" and a flat stock bracket to lower the nose of the front Dif. This brought the front suspension angle back almost to stock. Also I had to slightly bend the front radius rods to match up with the lowered suspension. Then spaced this back with some 1/2" washers to keep the lower arms at a more centered position. Oh yea I almost forgot, I also had to modify the engine X-member to accomodate the lowered front drive line.
    Like I said not exactly a peace of cake but it workes. I run 25" atv tires with no rub or bind.
    Mike
    Palmer
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  6. bigtex

    bigtex New Member

    I just install a 3 inch lift kit from gr imports and am having problems with the camber on the front wheels and is driving me crazy looking at the tires trom the front of the truck , they go in from the bottom of the tire , is any body have any idea how to fix the camber
     
    mustangoutcast likes this.
  7. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    The kit may cause improper camber. Make sure you installed it correctly. The flange on the strut spacer should have a angle to correct camber. Maybe you got them upside down, clocked the wrong way, or left and right mixed up?
     
  8. mwood

    mwood New Member

    You may have to lower the front cross memder a couple inches to compensate for the suspension and axle drop.
     
  9. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Wow. There are some mechanical genius's on here. Thank god!! Hahaha i have been doing my reading as well i should. My stupid question for the day is how tall a lift can i order that is good. I have the tools and ability but know that if one of the guru's on here has manufactured something correctly i would be better off. Im just a back yard mechanic with a torch and a welder compared to some of y'all. Im in need of height as well as wheel travel. I live and play in Alaska. That said my 4 wheeler has issues going hunting let alone my 94 carry. I know that im going to have to get a set of tracks eventually. But until then. Any suggestions ideas or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanx
     
  10. mwood

    mwood New Member

    Hello Mr Muddy Moose
    I hope you got all those pics I sent ok. I know it looks like quite the project but if you just jump in and do it up right. Those Carrys make really good off road vehicles. Just kind of cob it together and you wont be satisfied with the results.
    If you have a welder your good to go. Im not a super mechanic and mine came out perty nice.
    I have lots more pics and am glad to answer any questions you might have.

    Mike
    Palmer, Ak.
     
  11. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Right on. I did. Thankyou. I sent a reply or two........but i have been having issues with my AT&t phone AGAIN...........ill check and see if they went threw. I really do appreciate that though. I am wondering about how much the reared hangs up on things now that ya flipped the axle. I know that i reluctantly helped a friend flip his on a land cruiser. He can't go threw the deep snow like he did before and he hangs up on things like logs a bit more. I like the fact that the springs work like skis to help slide over things. But at the end of the day it is a far better way to go than with shackles.
     
  12. mwood

    mwood New Member

    Dude
    you dont actually flip the axle upside down you flip it under the springs and leave it right side up. you will need to buy new spring perches. and weld them to the top of the axle so the springs will bolt back on flat. Also new holes will need to be drilled in the spring perches to move the axle forward 1 inch. P5310108.JPG
     
  13. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Oh yea i know ya dont flip it over. What i was sayimg was that i like having the springs under the axle because the springs actually help you slide over all sorts of things. When the axle is under the spring the axle tube can snag up. Ill probably flip mine if i dont end up finding a set of springs to replace mine with. Im also looking into finding a diff lock or limited slip for the front diff.
     
  14. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Has anyone had issues with the front drive line pulling out of the t case when doing the lift? I have a total of about 6 1/2 inches of lift in the front now. Was quite a challenge just making a temporary lift.......yes temporary......dropped the front diff and blocked the arms down. But drive line pulled about an inch and half out of the front of the t case. I don't have monster tires on......yet.....just 23-10.5-12 all the way around. Have a 5 inch offset on the wheels. So now I'm 9 inches wider than with the stock tires on. That's why I need the height. So the wheels didn't hit the body. Way stable. Any way.....got off the question sorry.
     
  15. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Did you block the struts down the same amount as the arm mounts?
     
  16. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Yup. But now I'm wondering if the 275 pound springs I put in would make me have to drop them farther. Also I noticed today that the front wheels are about an inch and half or so forward from where they should be in the wheel wells.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2013
  17. mschlitzkus

    mschlitzkus New Member

    I have a 98 Carry and also did the axle flip from top to bottom. I had to cut and relocate the emergency brake cable brackets, brake line to housing and the differential lock solenoids to make it work. I did not buy the axle perches, just cut the old ones off and re-welded back on. Mwood is right. the driveshaft is about an inch short after this. Cannot run because it hangs out too far. Moving the spring bolt forward is a great idea as opposed to getting a new driveshaft made.
     
  18. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    even easier, and only cost a few dollars...... go to a machine shop and have them make a spacer out of a piece of aluminum. im getting one made for the rear driveline. I have figured out how to fix the front drive line issue I ran into. rather than cutting the radious arm and making it longer in order to move the entire front end back to where it belongs, im making an adapter plate that will allow me to move everything back and add small skid plated to the control and radious arms. ill add pics once finished....... I cant draw for the life of me hahaha
     
  19. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    apparently cant spell either
     
  20. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Save some bucks, and use a hockey puck. Snapage protection as well with the wee bit of torsional compression.
     

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