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Lift Kit Question

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by DRW, Feb 25, 2008.

  1. DRW

    DRW Member

    My 1991 Carry with 3" lift had all the symptoms that everyone has mentioned concerning CV shaft binding and I am in the process of doing a relatively simple fix, I haved lowered the front diff. crossmember 1.5" and modified the engine crossmember for driveline clearance.Nothing in the front drivetrain is in a bind now with the suspension unloaded.I may need to lower both engine and transmission crossmembers as my front driveline angle is about 8.5 degrees and 7 is the max for reliabilty.Instead of lowering the strut rod brackets I am playing with fabricating new offset strut rods, has anyone tried this? This little project has been a lot of trial and error, but should work out well once done.I am taking pictures along the way and making notes.Thanks to everyone on the forum who has caused me to spend way to much time on this little truck!!
     
  2. gbrad

    gbrad Member

    Can you describe "offset strut rods".

    Thanks,

    gbrad
     
  3. draggbody

    draggbody Member

    the strut rod is the small diameter rod that runs from the fram down to the lower control arm... offset means that it would take on a "Z" shape as to not bind the bushings on the frame side...


    but, i dont see a need to offset these strut rods as it will still give the undesired, yet unnoticable caster... i dont see a problem w/ the strut rods putting the bushings in a bind... and as far as the diff goes you can simply rotate the front diff mount down to prevent binding the left side cv axle... just build a new mounting hole a little further down on the existing mount...
     
  4. gbrad

    gbrad Member

    Yea, which is why I wanted a definition from DRW so I could better understand what he meant.

    I think with help from everyone here we are going to get the definitive answer to lifting these trucks without collateral damage to drivelines or CV joints.

    I know several have posted great ideas. We just need someone to start selling plans or kits that are accurate and repeatable.

    gbrad
     
  5. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    We need James (Moderator goes by JRinTX) to chime in here. He has put this "dog leg" in the radius rods that you speak of. It does however cause bump steer. It may be more beneficial to lower the front mount to retain correct suspension geometry.

    -Greg
     
  6. Gawdzuki

    Gawdzuki New Member

    ditto.. what he said
     
  7. gbrad

    gbrad Member

    JR definitely has the right idea.

    We just need to twist his arm and get him to give us or sell us some cad drawings spec'd to scale.

    gbrad
     
  8. DRW

    DRW Member

    Dropping just the front diff mount as draggbody spoke of may work,but it is affecting driveline phasing and may cause some clearance issues,I did look at that and decided not to go that route.I have put the offset strut rod idea aside for right now.I was playing around last night and spaced the strut up at the control arm 3/4" and with the ball type bushing setup it just might work.There is no clearance problem between the strut and the CV shaft.I plan on making spacers today out of 3/4 x 1-1/2 strap and giving it a try.I thank everyone for their ideas and comments,can't have too many gearheads!
     
  9. DRW

    DRW Member

    gbrad, from what I have learned these little trucks are like women, no two respond the same way!
     
  10. draggbody

    draggbody Member

    driveline phasing :confused::confused: WTF is that???
    as far as clearance goes the distance between the x-member and driveshaft INCREASES... it does not bind the ujoints, so i dont see where there is a problem...
     
  11. DRW

    DRW Member

    In driveline geometry the vertical angle of the pinion flange on the front diff and the output flange/shaft of the transfer case are suppose to be the same,this is proper phasing,ask someone in a driveline shop.I was not referring to the x-member and driveline as far as clearance, I am talking about the front diff hitting it's crossmember and or the front diff support on the underbody.
     
  12. draggbody

    draggbody Member

    but the angle difference is so miniscual that i can hardly see that being an issue, and besides the front diff doesnt move, so i cant follow how there is any adverse effect...
     
  13. DRW

    DRW Member

    draggbody, if your methods have worked for you then I certainly would stick with them.
     
  14. JRinTX

    JRinTX Moderator

    Wow...I appreciate the confidence in my lift designs....but I have just learned the same things that several others have also. Greg, blackbelt, gbrad and others have done similar things. Greg has put together a great lift...we need pictures!

    DRW, you did exactly the right thing when you lowered the front differential. And as long as you dont change the angle or rotate the front diff you should not have a problem with the front driveline phasing.

    Also, the offset or "z" shaped radius rods will work with mild lifts (up to approx 3") but for higher lifts the front radius rod mounts need to be dropped. If the front suspension is lowered, but the radius rods are left in the original mounts, they are swinging thru an arc that is more vertical than originally designed. Because of this the lower swing arm is pulled forward when the suspension is extended. This causes the hub to be pushed outward on that side by the tie rod which is swinging thru a different arc. This causes a phenomenom called "bump steer". The perfect front suspenson should have the swing arms, radius rods and tie rods all swinging thru a similar arc.

    Google "bump steer" and research front suspenion design for independent front suspensions.

    Hope this helps...and sorry for the slow and sporadic replies. I am on the road on business this week...not much time to goof off!! :p
     
  15. missminis

    missminis New Member

    does anyone know if it is possible to do a body lift instead of a suspension lift on my 92 sambar since i cant find a suspension lift? I am also thinking about airbagging it, any thoughts?
     
  16. jtpc

    jtpc Member

    Yes, I have a 4" body lift, so that all the mechanical parts are not altered. The body lift seems to work well with subarus.
     
  17. missminis

    missminis New Member

    Thats good i dont want to alter the suspension all i want is room for a taller 13" tire.
     
  18. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    OK this what I think I am planning for my 91 Carry!
    I like the term Body Lift!
    I plan on lowering the radius arm mount an inch or so and then the rest of the cross members about an inch and a half?
    Then maybe a 2" lift kit with the adjustable camber and rear shackles?
    Any ideas?
     
  19. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    OK I found a 4" x 2" square tubing with a 1/4" wall thickness I believe I will just make up some blocks, drill the holes and get longer bolts and put them between each of the cross members and the radius rod mounts.
    What about the adjustable camber for the top of the strut?
     
  20. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    Here is what I have tried.
    All I did is take 6 8mm threaded rod nuts and 6 short bolts and just added the nuts to the top of the struts and then bolt them back on!
    Raised it over an inch!
    I believe I will add a round piece of plywood over the nuts to add support?
     

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