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Just bought a 1990 acty

Discussion in 'Honda Acty' started by Lee17, Dec 2, 2017.

  1. Lee17

    Lee17 New Member

    Hey everyone ,

    I recently saw a 1990 Honda Acty Van on eBay that was described as in great running condition. I placed a bid and won the auction. The seller offered to deliver the van to me (a 4 hr trip) which I thought reaffirmed that the van was running well.

    He made it and and delivered the van. To his credit, the van WAS drivable for 2 days before it decided to die on me.

    Yesterday morning, I started the van and let the engine warm up. While waiting the engine seemed to get slightly louder, the van shook a bit and then shut down. I also saw some white smoke around the van.

    Not sure what just happened (not very car savvy), I tried to start the van again and it just simply would not turn over. The battery light and the oil light then came on.

    I attempted to start the van again and it started sounding like it could be a battery issue (one of many issues). I decided to look at the battery and noticed the terminals were not and could not be securely tightened onto the battery posts.

    The Japanese battery posts were simply just too small for the terminals.

    Went to autozone and grabbed some new terminals and a new battery (could not find smaller replacement terminals or a battery with small posts).

    Hooked up the new terminals and new battery and it started up! The battery and oil light went off as well.

    One problem down and now to the dreaded white smoke..

    I come back to the van and start it up to further evaluate the smoke. Sadly, the van would not turn over and the battery light and oil light came on again.

    Not being car savvy I wanted to get some input from you folks on what my next move should be. If you’ve made it this far into my post thank you for reading!

    Lee
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017 at 8:20 AM
  2. shogun

    shogun Member

    well, as you do not know what kind and when a service has been made, there could be many things to check. First things to check, if the spark plugs get fired or not and if the fuel pump is running. Use a inline spark plug tester like one of these https://www.amazon.com/spark-plug-i...&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:spark plug ignition tester
    White smoke from the exhaust
    Normally its condensed water in the exhaust system of the car. The water in the tubes heats up and then condenses when it leaves the car. after some miles then it should disappear because the motor and the exhaust system get its high temperature and the tubes should be free of water. If the white smoke doesnt disappear you should go to the next workshop to check the car because it could mean that your cooling system has a leak or the cylinder head has a damage.
     
  3. Lee17

    Lee17 New Member

    Thank you for your reply Shogun!

    I was trying to test the alternator out with a multimeter and somehow the van started up on the second try. Its been starting perfectly fine ever since (about a week so far) which is great! My roommate suggested getting the carburetor cleaned when he observed the van not start and then start up on that second crank.

    As for the smoke..it completely stopped after i changed the oil! Though I'm going to keep monitoring it for smoke or leaks underneath the vehicle.

    I just ordered an Acty Ignition Tune up Kit (Spark plugs, Wires, Rotor and Dist Cap), Air filter, and fuel filter from minitruckparts.ca. I'm not sure if these spark plugs are pre gapped or not, though I found an old post by Old Machinist stating:

    "The NGK plugs are BKR6E-11. The NGK number breakdown is as follows
    B = 14mm
    K = 5/8" hex
    R = Resister
    6 = Heat range with 2 being hottest and 12 coldest
    E = 19 mm reach
    11 = .044" gap

    You can go one heat range ether side of 6."

    Would a gap of 0.044 be okay for an HH3 1990 Honda Acty?

    So far I've changed the battery, car battery terminals, and the oil and oil filter. Next I want to change the spark plugs, fuel filter, and air filter. I want to flush the radiator as well because I found some brown rusty sludge in the coolant overflow tank, but after reading some posts on the forum about that, Im a little confused on where to drain the coolant. Someone on here mentioned bleeder screws on the top of the engine.

    If anyone has any info on the spark plug gap and flushing the radiator that would be GREATLY appreciated!
    Im extremely new to the minitruck world and the mechanical world but so far I am loving it!

    We got some snow in Texas yesterday. Here's a pic of the van with a little snow!
     

    Attached Files:

  4. shogun

    shogun Member

    I do not have the service manual by James Danko http://www.lulu.com/shop/james-dank...service-manual/paperback/product-4004395.html but put that on your X-mas wish list, helps a lot
    if OldMachinist says so, you can trust his comments, he knows very well https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/acty-spark-plugs.1303/
    specs are here and the gap should be o.k. https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9328
    here also mentioned: NGK Standard Spark Plug 3pcs HONDA Acty BKR6E-11, Engine Size: 660cc,Model Code: HA3 / HA4 / HA5 / HH3 / HH4 ,Engine Type: E07A,Genuine Parts No.: 98079-5614E / 980795614E ,https://autoparts.beforward.jp/detail/NEW-Performance-Parts/Spark-Plugs/NGKS22-BKR6E-11/
    and the cross reference is Honda 98079-5614E Spark Plug (Bkr6E-11)

    Radiator flushing I have not done so far, I just drained the fluid. On my 1997 Acty the radiator cap is a bit hidden, passenger side (left side) under the dash there is a metal cover held with a nut, under this cover is the radiator cap.
    Here is a youtube , Honda Acty radiator drain and fill

    coolant flush how to https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/coolant-flush-how-to.16155/

    http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/OM/CI9393/CI9393O00115A.pdf

    Hope that helps a bit.
     
  5. Lee17

    Lee17 New Member

    Thanks for the thoughtful response shogun!

    I've read that post and seen that video but I'm still confused by the bleeder screws in the engine. I've also read to ignore the bleeder screws if there is significant rust. Im curious if would be okay to just do the following:

    1. Drain the coolant from the radiator as shown in the video. Take off the radiator cap.
    2. After the coolant has drained. Put the bolt back onto the radiator.
    3. Pour coolant into the radiator (How much? What kind/Brand)

    I'm also wondering if I should pour coolant into the coolant overflow tank?


    Also, Ive ordered a tune up kit with a distributor cap but it looks a little different from the one on my Acty. Would this matter? I talked to someone at the place where I ordered it from and they assured me the parts were compatible with the year and make of my vehicle. Ill attach some photos of the part I ordered and the distributor cap on my Acty.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. shogun

    shogun Member

    I assume the distributor cap will fit. There is only one cap style for Honda Acty: E07A: Distributor Cap: HA2/HA3/HA3/HA4/HH3/HH4 ,Honda Acty: E05A, E07A: 660cc: Genuine Honda Distributor Cap: Fits HA2/HA3/HA3/HA4/HH3/HH4. 550cc & 660cc Engines.
    Honda parts # is 30102-PZ3-J02
    Old Machinist has the info for the bleeding https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/does-anyone-know-how-the-coolant-system-flows.15918/

    Here's the procedure the service manual says.
    Fill the radiator
    Start the engine and add coolant as needed.
    Shut off engine and shake vehicle to release air bubbles(I'm not kidding it really says that)
    Start engine again, add coolant and repeat as needed.
    If system was completely drained bleed lines above spare tire
    Then bleed at the bolts on engine.
    If automatic transmission bleed the bolt on the cooler
    One hose at the thermostat is the inlet from the radiator and the other in the return flow from the heater core.

    I use Genuine Honda Antifreeze/Coolant, as it is easy to get here in Japan and the price is reasonable. The cooling system contains many aluminum components that can corrode if an improper antifreeze is used. Some antifreeze, even though labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not provide adequate protection. This coolant should always be a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Never add straight antifreeze or plain water. Product description, maybe you find something simlar locally: Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 OL999-9011 Fits: All Honda Models , Honda Type 2 coolant is an ethylene glycol base product for extra long lasting aluminum component protection. Honda coolant has been developed to provide corrosion and rust protection of all cooling system components. Requires no additional corrosion inhibitors. When used as directed in Honda vehicles, this coolant will give complete protection for 5 years or 60,000 miles. No additional water is required. 50/50 Prediluted antifreeze. DO NOT ADD WATER!! Contains: Water 7732-18-5, Ethylene glycol 107-21-1, Diethylene glycol 111-46-6. Using great than 30 ppm of a bittering agent.Meets: ASTM D-3306 ~ ASTM D-4340

    Bleeding I did similar to your idea:
    Drain the coolant only from the radiator as shown in the video. Take off the radiator cap.
    After the coolant has drained. Put the bolt back onto the radiator.
    Pour coolant into the radiator (How much? What kind/Brand) >>>>till it overflows, I also add coolant into the overflow tank, no problem, if too much, it will drain.
    run the engine till all gets at operating temperature, set heater to full heat, blower fan at low speed, watch the overflow tank and refill if necessary when air comes out.
    As you do not drain the engine coolant, probably no need to touch the bleed screw, manual says " If system was completely drained bleed lines above spare tire Then bleed at the bolts on engine."

    google for alternatives to honda coolant, example https://mechanics.stackexchange.com...els-coolant-really-compatible-with-all-models

    If you want to get more of the old coolant out which is in the engine and other parts, just repeat the simple coolant change some weeks later, so the old one is diluted again with fresh one. Basically the same as one changes transmission fluid in an automatic transmission by just draining, usually by just draining 1/3 of the total volume comes out, the rest remains in torque converter, ATF cooler and cooler lines. So people just replace the ATF the conventional way 2-3 times in certain time intervals.
     
  7. Lee17

    Lee17 New Member

    Thanks for the thoughful response shogun!

    I will try and change the coolant soon and report back!

    As for the distributor cap, it definitely looks different from the one I ordered but hopefully it is compatible with my acty. Just a little nervous because of some posts I’ve read on here about a parts dealer sending an incompatible rotor causing damage to the pins. Might be a little difficult figuring out the firing order. But again I will report back!

    My plans for over the holiday will be:

    1. Change spark plugs
    2. Spark plug wires
    3. Distributor cap
    4. Rotor
    5. Air filter
    6. Coolant
    7. Fuel filter

    Wish me luck!!!

    I hope this makes my acty run a bit better! I’d like to change the transmission fluid too and clean the carb but I want to tackle the above list first.

    I’ll post pics as I go through my list!
     

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