Finally got the free time to work on my truck Changed the rotor, cap, wires, and plugs. The truck drives better than ever but the idle now seems very high to me. Almost like I'm giving it gas in neutral but I'm not. How can I adjust that so it does not run so hard at idle? Turn the carb down?
Sounds like idle solenoid is not being activated by vacuum. Check vacuum line going to idle solenoid. Otherwise if this is OK adjust idle speed with scew on carburator accessable from under drivers seat. 950 rpm after warm-up with 9° advance timing. But mine works better at 12° because our gas is better than in Japan.
I adjusted every screw possible and it did not make a differance. Pictured is my carb. If i take a screw driver and put pressure on the area where the cable connects..(almost smack in the middle of the picture) and hold some pressure....my RPM's come way down and the truck idle's fine. As soon as i take the pressure off...then it goes back to reving high. You mentioned the solonoid....is that the black thing pictured towards the bottom. Not sure how i can test that to make sure its good...i moved it up and down with my hand and it did not make a differance..... I'm thrilled i got the truck driving fast now....but i need to get this idle under control....its so loud.....and un-nessesary..... ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated......
you may have a leak around the throttle shaft if that is where you are pushing...but you should be able to get some adjustment somewhere...have you run seafoam through it ??
Idle solenoid Idle screw is directly behind alternator under seat. By applying pressure you are probably closing the gap in your idle solenoid vacuum line, therefore activating idle solenoid and idling down. I would definitely check this vacuum line. It usually cracks right at idle spigit.
you pretty much nailed it when you asked if the throttle cable is too tight.....because thats exactly where i have to apply pressure for the thing to stop screaming when its idle. But there is slack in the cable.....thats not it..... Is it safe to say my carb is shot if im turning adjustment screws and am getting zero results?......almost like it's adjusted to run really rich and no way to turn it down. Does anyone know where i can get a good carb diagram....specifically for my carb? 1998 Suzuki DB71T Little Foot....I dont have an "idle" solenoid???? the picture you sent......i have the lower Solenoid...but not the one on top #1. FUPABOX - did the seamfoam after the plugs, wires, cap and rotor...... Am I missing that....is it possible for my truck to not have one?...... or is my carb different somehow? Thanks for your input..... My truck went from running too WEAK to running to STRONG
sounds like too much air getting past the throttle butterfly...you prob. need to adjust the idle air bypass ..#11 on your diagram appears to be a rubber plug over the bypass adjuster screw...I'm betting when you put pressure on the butterfly shaft you are closing the amount of air coming in and slowing the idle down...the bypass screw is basically clockwise to lower idle, anti clockwise to raise idle speed...they almost always have a rubber anti tamper plug on them...one of the reasons I asked about seafoam is thata dirty intake can hold the throttle butterfly open too far and cause the same symptoms.
Thanks i found the #11 screw....... Turned it in either direction while the truck was running........and the truck runs high idle still...... i'ts like there is no way to adjust this thing........is the carb shot....? what else can i try? another round of sea foam? truck is running really rich.....burning my eyes if i run it with a closed garage door for more than a minute.....
not injected ?? hmm barely looked at the carb photo and assumed it was a throttle body type.....Ok..remove the air intake between the carb and the air filter..check to see that the choke butterfly valve is opening once the truck has warmed up
so i took my carb apart some and i noticed the spring is not wound as tight as it probably should be.....see the attached picture....i circled it with an arrow. I think this is my problem.... Where can i get this part from? or that throttle cable assembly? trying to avoid getting an entire carb if i dont have to......:frustration:
on the pic of you carb I added an arrow to the adjustment for the preload on your carb main butterfly..that screw needs to be adjusted so that the main throttle butterfly is barely open when closed..like 1/2 a mm or less ..lube the heck out of all the moveable choke linkages as well,they do get sticky and the springs won't overcome it...#11 is the idle valve that diverts more or less air past the main butterfly to fine tune idle after everything else is set..open and close the main throttle butterfly by hand and see that the spring closes it completely when let go...use lots of carb cleaner ...loosen that screw I put the arrow to until the butterfly no longer contacts it and work some more carb cleaner into the shaft till it closes completely dead with spring pressure only...once it will shut completely on its own ..screw in the (red arrowed) screw till it just contacts the butterfly again..then 1/4-1/2 turn more..that should set the initial throttle opening...the rest of the adjustments are choke and temp related..but the initial opening if not set right will screw everything else up,so you need to start there
i've been lubing everything up and trying to adjust every screw possible...i can't get the idle to come down! that screw you pointed out....ive turned it in both directions with the truck running.. and it does not make a bit of differance on the idle......Every mechanic i bring this too looks at me funny when i pull up with my truck....and want to charge me a fortune to look at it...with no gaurantees.... im worried they will screw it up worse..... i'll try again when i get home......... there is another screw right where that wound up spring is.....i cant really get a good turn on it...i dont think i have the right size screw driver....and its in the worst spot possible......but i believe thats where my issue is....do you know what that screw is suppose to adjust? i could be wrong but that wound up coil spring seems like it should be tighter to me.
thanks....i think your last post got deleted? i was reading it but when i came back it was gone.... thats the one where you labled stuff on the diagram....can you re-post that was VERY helpfull!
should i try another round of Sea Foam....maybe this thing is just so dirty inside it wont close all the way?
you will need to remove the carb completely to get the intial throttle adjustment done properly and reach those screws (you can't see the main butterfly with the carb on the truck ) you need to see that the butterfly snaps shut completely when released under spring pressure,and the butterfly is on the intake manifold end...you described pushing the throttle shaft spring made the idle go down so something is keeping the throttle from closing all the way..either carbon in the throat around the butterfly ,the shaft is sticking (could be worn out and leaking air past the shaft but that is the worst case scenario and fairly uncommon)or the preload screw is too tight and keeping the butterfly open..the carb needs to come off and be hosed down with carb cleaner and the throttle shaft worked in with lube until it shuts completely..as I said I know it's a bit of a pain but the main throttle has to close and be adjusted or no other adjustment will work at all
thanks!!!!! looks like the carb is coming out. Unless you think i can remove my air filter...and spray some carb cleaner in there and see if it will loosen the main butter fly....or maybe another round of sea foam....? if i pull off my air filter....and that black canister that the air filter sits in....will i be able to see the main butterfly....? i think its really gunked up and will not close properly....my though is i could clean it?
#34 could also be the main throttle spring and the other that I pointed to previously is for the throttle closing damper (so throttle doesn't snap shut insatntly when you let off gas when driving..it slows the shutting of the throttle so it's smoother )either way you need to loosen #34 and the other one arrowed in pic until they don't contact the throttle shaft..then once the throttle is closing completely we can figure out the adjustment on those 2..sorry it's a bit tough having never seen your carb in person or worked on one ..they are all roughly the same but with different screws and adjustments in different spots..we will get ya going though...I use my 8" notebook when I'm at work here and trying to see the small photos and stuff is tough...wish I could hook it to the 42" monitor in front of me
So in a last ditch effort...i decided to pull off the air filter and spray some carb cleaner.....thinking something inside was gunked up and sticking.......while pulling off the air filter...i discovered another screw which i did not see before. I turned the screw and the idle dropped!!!!! Looks like everything is working now!!! thank you guys all so much for the help and tips!!! NOW the next question...what about all the other screws I messed around with in efforts to drop the idle? I'm sure they are all out of wack and not in the original positions. the car idles and runs fine (from what i can tell) should i just leave them alone
The other stuff is choke and high idle related and you may need to readjust when it gets colder..but if she's going best to leave it be for now..any pics of the screw you found ?
I'll put some up when I get home today.....now off to the next problem My tails lights...parking lights...and dash board lights don't work. Got pulled over last night due to no tail lights.....
Checked the fuses....they all seem fine....ill have to re-check again more carefully.... Is all that stuff on 1 fuse you think? Parking lights...tail lights...dashboard....and licsense plate light....
yes they are all part of the parking light circuit..I would check that single sided fuse you found..betting that's where the other half of that circuit went missing
