Jesse, Don't give up on the flush. I had similar issues with mine a few yrs. back, and with the proper, coolant system flush, You'll get it. A friend of mine gave me some Caterpillar coolant flush, that was unbelievable! Sorry, he's passed on, and I can't even tell you where to get it, but I'm sure there's other good coolant flush on the market! I had a past thread, on it, including pics, from a yr. or two ago. It's a problem not being able to find the replacement parts,(valve),as needed. It's also important to have a clean cooling system as you know, so you don't burn up that engine! Running your engine at slower speeds isn't the answer! The motor will still run too hot, and that's not gonna be healthy for it. Sometimes it takes more than a couple flushes to get it, and even letting the solution sit and soak, after you've run it, and come back the next day, and start all over again works pretty good. Done it several times at the Heavy Equipment shop, back in the Day! Good Luck, Limestone
Update; I finally was able to get some time off to work on the truck. Today I cleaned the radiator face with a good hose washing, although it was already pretty clean. Next I drained the antifreeze and fill it up with water and flushed the system with just water and left it on while I troubleshooted the manifold bleeder valve. So I removed the valve completely and as I thought it was clogged and the area leading to it. I put a small amount of the concentrated radiator flush in where the valve goes and cleans and flushed it several times while letting it sit for several minutes each time. Finally I was tired of messing around and used a small wire to aggressively poke and rub the base of the hole. Eventually I was able to open it up. Then I ran the truck for a few minutes with a service jack under the front is the truck so the front was elevated about 10 inches. While it was running I kept opening the valve and clears out a lot of air. Now that the bleeder valve is clear for the moment I removed all the water, added in the blue devil complete flush solution and tipped it off. Then again did the same process to burn the air. The flush is still in and I went for a good drive. I plane to let the truck run and the flush so it’s thing for about two hours. I will flush and see how she does. Already though the truck was running a lot cooler and that leads me to believe a big portion of my problem must have been an air lock as the bleeder valve could not do its thing. I was able to drive sustained at 100kph plus and the gauge was only at 3/4. Driving sustained at 80-90 the gauge was just over half way.
Jesse, Your making progress! I forgot to add, my old buddy used to save a few bucks, and used, CLR,(Calcium,Lime,Rust), Cleaner, when he had a really bad rusty radiator/Cooling System! He had more tricks up his sleeve, and I really learned a lot from him! Good Luck! Limestone
I had overheating problems, blew gasket, turns out the radiator was blocked internally with mud caused by rust, it had to be physically cleaned with a bicycle spoke down each tube.
Check and see where your Temp probe is mounted on your radiator, also those temp probe’s fail. I called summit racing and ordered a replacement and fan switch rheostat.
