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HELLO FROM CONNECTICUT

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by Tiburg, Nov 17, 2020.

  1. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    Hello all,

    I recently imported a 1995 S110P and I am just starting to get familiar with it. Other than a few cosmetic clean up items, I really haven't gotten into it much. Overall, I was surprised how smooth this thing drives. I bought it purely for a recreational/yard work truck, but now I am planning on taking it on some weekend cruises, as well. Smiles per mile is worth the price tag alone.

    I should preface this by stating I am by no means a mechanic. Just trying to learn along the way.

    Through some searching on here, I have accumulated some of the basics (oil capacity, oil filter numbers, air filter numbers, spark plugs, etc.). However, when it comes to sourcing parts, I was wondering if anyone has advice, places to go, cross-referenced part numbers, etc.

    For example, I also noticed when I changed the oil late last night that the drain plug was a little beat up and the gasket was in rough shape (Unfortunately; I expected to a copper washer like most vehicles I have worked on). Since I wasn't sure when I would get to store to look for a plug/washer, I put it back in. It seeps the smallest bit of oil, so I figured I would change it next oil change (or sooner).

    I figured I would buy a new one this week, but am having trouble finding the correct part online (or even the size/pitch). Any suggestions without pulling the plug and bringing it to a local auto parts store?

    I am sure I will have more questions along the way, so this is my intro/question/knowledge thread that I plan on building on. I'll post some more pictures, but this one is from the day I picked it up.

    Cheers!
    Tim
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Welcome aboard. The little trucks are quite a bit of fun, But hard to source things for.

    Please go into your profile page and put the information on your truck in as your signature. It makes it lots easier for us to give accurate advice if you ask for help. My signature should give you the idea.
     
    MADboss and Limestone like this.
  3. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    Thank you for the suggestion. I have updated it so hopefully that will help!
     
  4. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    This evening I tried to replace the oil drain plug plastic/composite washer with a m12 copper washer. Unfortunately, I was still getting some oil seeping by.

    However when I took the plastic washer off, I noticed that it has a ridge on one side where the bolt sits. The flat side that seals to the oil pan was pretty beat up. In the meantime while I order some misc. gaskets/washers, I thought I could make this work. I lightly sanded the flat side with 220 on a flat surface. I put it back on and torqued it down. Seems to have stopped the leaking for now. Once I find a suitable replacement I’ll include a link within.

    I also went ahead and swapped out the work/cargo bed light with a 18w LED pod. The original light was rotted out and didn’t work well. I wired in the new LED pod using the OEM plug. Bright and useful. The 10A fuse should be more than sufficient for this application.

    I picked up a few additional items tonight on the good ol’ Amazon. Hopefully these will work...if not, the return policy is great.

    head unit: https://www.amazon.com/Character-Receiver-Assistant-Bluetooth-Charging/dp/B08464VRML

    LED bulb for reverse light: https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Lumens-78-SMD-Backup-Replacement/dp/B07BRDQ6RK

    Cheers!
    Tim
     
  5. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    My local ACE Hardware had Nylon and Neoprene washers in the Bin bolts. A pair of them with the neoprene against the oil pan solve my drip.

    You may have problems with the LED reverse bulbs, as the light circuit might be ground controlled.
     
    Tiburg likes this.
  6. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    On the Radio: I mounted a similar unit in my S110P.
    There are cutouts for 4-inch speakers in the doors, and a matching precuts in the door trim panels. I ran the wiring for my speakers through the front sheet metal and into the left headlight bay using these:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R1RT2T/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_KtwTFbSHRJMBF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    The smallest ones work well for speaker wire, and the others are really handy just to have around. There are packs with just the M12/PG7 size, but they have more than you will need for the speaker wire, and cost almost as much as the assortment.

    Once your into the headlight well, the left wire routes behind the “fender” and into a large hole already existing in the door. The get to the right door, I fished the speaker behind the “hood” or fascia panel, and from there it was just like the left.

    I put a weather tight cup behind my speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039YWT3U/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_rGwTFbF73VBC5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    I used a couple of these to set things out a bit to clear the window when it goes up and down: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012TB8EC8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_UJwTFbJRQ2ZSB You may not need them depending on how deep your speakers are.

    Speakers are these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LYABHW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_uMwTFbQ8V3G2G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    They didn’t come with grilles, and seemed a bit exposed so I added these grills: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSRKM33/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_tSwTFb02D54Y2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    But, if I were doing it over I’d use these speakers instead, and not do the weather tight cups, spacers and separate cover: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSSHTFH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_lPwTFbZGWV04T
     
  7. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    This is great info! Thanks for providing details. I agree that the marine speaker option you posted would probably be an easy and clean install. Hopefully this weekend I can tinker around with the truck. Thanks again Jigs.
     
  8. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Ti,
    Welcome! JIGS won't steer you wrong!
    Limestone
     
    Tiburg likes this.
  9. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    The reverse light is a regular positive switched light so upgrading is straight forward
     
    Tiburg likes this.
  10. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the input. In the process of upgrading my electrical on my truck, I intercepted the rear wiring, and used it to trigger relays. So I was never sure of what the actual scheme was.

    I was surprised at how small the gauge the factory used was.
     
    Tiburg likes this.
  11. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    Worked on the truck for a bit tonight. I figured since the new headunit came in, I should probably install it. I want to put some miles on the truck this weekend, so something other than AM would be nice.

    So after I got the stock radio out, I realized the harness adaptor I had ordered a few weeks back didn’t fit (can’t say I’m surprised). If anyone is looking for a 1995 S110P, don’t buy the Metra 70-1398...

    I’ve spent hours looking for an adaptor with no luck, so I decided I would make my own. As a rule of thumb for me, I do my best to keep stock wiring intact even if it takes a little bit more time.

    I made my own by dissembling the AM radio and cutting the female plug end off the circuit board. Using a multimeter, I figured out what each wire was and rewired it to headunit’s wiring harness.

    Not the prettiest, but strong and will hold up for years to come. I’ll end up running new wiring for speakers when I get around to adding more. I’ve attached a few pictures within.

    I was also having some clearance issues with the dash trim surrounding the unit. Rather than cut the trim to fit, I ditched the headunit’s slide-in support and got creative with some zip ties. It fits snug and much, much more flush. See pictures below.

    Also, the LED bulb replacement for the reverse light works great!
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    I found a Toyota radio harness kit which worked on mine. I used the trim and got rid of the little pocket under the radio to install a panel with some switches.
     
    Tiburg likes this.
  13. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    I believe that the one I ordered was for a 1982-1992 Toyota/Daihatsu. Unfortunately that didn’t work out. The plug was much bigger than the stock harness. This will be sufficient for now. Only downsize is the AM radio is now garbage.
     
  14. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    The AM radio was already that before you even opened it up . Around here the only thing on. AM is the holy rollers ,sports radio and foreign language talk radio ( possibly more holy rollers ? ) with a nice heaping of buzz and interference to make unlistenable
     
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  15. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Ti,
    That's a great post. Stating how you were able to adapt, and overcome, and do it yourself! To me that's a lot of what owning these things is about, cuz sometimes you just can't find parts! Nice Job!
    Limestone
     
    Tiburg likes this.
  16. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    Thanks Limestone!

    My goal is to contribute so that the next person may find my posts useful when doing similar mods!

    Also, the Bluetooth is great!
     
    Limestone likes this.
  17. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Ti,
    Go to your Profile page, and click on Signature to enter your mini info! It will help us help you, and others! We are in the process to try to improve the communication aspect on this Forum to help each other!
    Limestone
     
  18. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    Limestone, I set one up per Jigs’ suggestion. Is it not showing up? I’m currently on my iPhone so I do not see any Signatures.

    - ti
     
  19. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Okay, you might have to go onto your Computer to do it! Hey, at least your trying! We appreciate it!
    Limestone
     
  20. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    It works from my iPad. Should work on the iPhone
     
  21. Tiburg

    Tiburg New Member

    Seems to be working now!

    Had a fun dump-run with the Hijet this weekend. Looking forward to painting the wheels, and looking into getting the bed coated. Also, starting to look into doing the timing belt. I have read that these are generally done around 70k km and mine has 77k. I didn't see any maintenance stickers or indication that the timing was done. Is there an easy way to tell?
     
  22. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    You can do an inspection of the belt to see if it needs to be replaced, the GATES Belting site has instructions with pictures.

    But, personally by the time you get the guards off, it makes more sense to me to just go ahead and install the new timing belt, tension idler and the every other time check the water pump, and replace it if it is suspicious.
     

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