I've had my 1994 Daihatsu S110 for a number of years, and frankly, I'm addicted to it. We use the truck on our one-acre property to carry off a number of things to a compost pile a few blocks down the street. We also use it at our summer place, it's perfect for a lot of trails and working around our acreage there. But now the sad news, it has a head gasket leak! I need a manual but don't know the best one to get, I removed the bed, and exhaust without breaking any fasteners. Since all is old, I'd like to remove the head with as much attached as possible, because I don't even see an intake gasket out there yet, kind of scary! A few questions if I may? Am I better off to try to lower the engine and trans for head removal? What size spark plug socket do I need? Hard to see up there. Any possibility of a PDF manual? Paper will just get dirty in my hands. thanks for any advice, George B.
GR Imports has a good engine manual, and the full gasket set. https://www.grimports.com/daihatsu-parts?page=5
Thanks Jigs n fixtures. For those who have not taken the head off the S110p, it's not too bad, and maybe I'll share a bit for the next guy. As mentioned, I was worried about breaking off a fastener, so I shot WD40 at every fastener I imagined I might remove. I heated a few nuts with a propane torch and shot them with penetrant a second time. I decided to take the bed off, and do some inspections while I was at it, the access door lets you see a few things that need be removed, a few cables, the wire to the coil removed, the upper mount for the air cleaner canister removed for another, then loosen wiring here and there, and pull the bed off. Before pulling any hoses, make a tool out of coat hanger wire, kind of a backwards hook, I dulled my point a bit with the wire brush on my grinder to assure it didn't cut the hoses, work this in between the hose nipples and hoses, spray some penetrant in, and walk you tool around the hose nipple to break the bond, now use the hook to pull the hose back a bit at a time. Diahatsu used some good rubber, after cleaning out the crud where the hose bonded to the nipple, I decided to reuse all. Since I tried head gasket sealer, I wanted to flush the heater core, a lot of junk cam out, and a little later I found out why. the heater core was completely blocked! no need to take exhaust manifold off, just remove bolts at the exhaust flange. and drop your exhaust clear of your work. It's now a great time to replace the air filter, fuel filter and oil filter. I pulled the seats and then the radiator because I wanted to fill it with white vinegar and let it stand a few days to clean the crap out of it. Never again will I used a head gasket sealer. With coolant and oil drained, I removed the belt driving the alternator, then the pulley, and I started putting groups of parts in sandwich bags, to make things easier to reassemble. warning: chase the threads on the three bolts that hold the radiator in with a die, the fourth is a stud and nut. I couldn't get two of them started till I did this, and you're working a bit blind, so avoid the frustration. I buy dollar store fingernail polish in screaming colours, I mark wires and connectors with this stuff before I take them off. Also mark the vacuum hoses, this way you don't have to wonder where it went later. I removed the lower pulley, and then the timing cover, my timing belt looked perfect, so I decided to reuse it, I put witness marks with fingernail polish at the bottom in screaming green across a cog on the pulley, and across the belt. At the top I used hot pink, and did the same thing. Before pulling the distributor, I made a witness mark with a wood chisel near the top by the bolt that hold the distributor in place. The larger part of the job is making sure you get all of the nuts off the intake manifold, I used a magnet taped to a chopstick to recover a few. once they're all off, gently break the bond at the gasket and lift up till it's free. Stop here for now. Pull the valve cover and then head bolts. At this point, you can ask for assistance to lift up on intake while you pull the head off, or you can wire up the head, I tossed a rope over the cab, and used several to hold intake up and out of the way. I found it easy to pull the head off and take it out towards the back. Now for heart of the story. Not changing the coolant when you should, will rot your head gasket, and it will start shedding crumbs. The fire rings can look OK, but your head gasket can leak like a sieve. I think the heater core was plugged off with bits that came loose from the head gasket. White vinegar worked good at getting rid of other junk, I flushed the heater core at the hoses both ways with good water before I used the white vinegar, it removed a lot of junk. It was clear when I put it in, and white as milk when I removed it. and full of solids. I will never again forget the change coolant! What I've said here is from my sort memory, do consult the manual for torque specs, and use this time to adjust the valves, you especially don't want to run with an exhaust valve too tight. BTW, my air filter was dirty beyond belief, the fuel filter was clogged, and I found one bad connection in the vacuum hose spaghetti! I now have twice the power, you lose it a little at a time and might not notice that it's running like a sick dog? And now the fast idle till warm works! I forgot the truck had that! George
George, Welcome,! I like your ingenuity, Lyle sells a hose removal 4 piece tool kit for removing hoses, that is chrome hardened steel, extremely handy, to leverage those, time rusted, frozen hoses on. I like your old school mentality, and common sense! Harbor freight sells, inexpensive telescoping magnets, as do other, tool suppliers. I have carried, a small thin, snap on magnetic tool, that closes up like a pen, in my pocket, for yrs.(invaluable)! One of the most use full tools, I have used in this restoration project, is a small 5 piece magnetic set, that goes inside of your sockets, to retrieve your nuts, before they fall! lol! I've made a habit of marking my hoses, and elec. wires with, small hair like phone wiring, that stuff comes in 100 to 10,000 pair for old school phone work!(no two wires are the same color combo) Today, everything is going to, fiber optic,(another story)! At the Heavy equipment shop, when your working on a piece of equipment, hyd. oil goes everywhere, and there aren't too many things that you can mark your hoses with, that will stay legible, especially, when you have 20 different hoses disconnected, at one time! Again, I do like your, common sense, ingenuity! As far as the radiator goes, most manufactures, will tell you not to use tap water, and to only use distilled! That's the reason. Tap water, accelerates the formation of, crud buildup, rust, corrosion, and the like! I included a pic of my radiator, before I had it re cored! Keep Goin, Ol' Timer, God Bless! Limestone
Greetings Limestone! I love my chop sticks, I sometimes use one to slid a nut down onto a stud in a tight place, and then use the other to turn it till it gets' started on the threads. I've been collecting tools for 50 years and still come up short now and then. As for tap water being a problem, it sure is, but even if you use distilled water (as you always should) you can eventually have a problem, most coolants have a finite life, and it pays to change it at least every three years for the typical stuff.
