1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

cushman white truck

Discussion in 'Tips and Tricks' started by kev8969, Aug 26, 2009.

  1. kev8969

    kev8969 New Member

    I have a Cushman white truck it will run 18mph then the govner comes in wheres it at & how do you go around it ? I think it is a speed govner not rpm And also the shifter looks like there is 2 more gears like 2 of the 5 are blocked
     
  2. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Active Member Staff Member

    it is probably an rpm limiter and the gears are plated so you cant shift into them. try looking around under the shifter column to see if there is a restriction plate.

    also try searching the forum for restriction plates etc.
     
  3. Mighty Milt

    Mighty Milt Moderator

    try doing a search for the daihatsu with teh rev limiter in it. i'm not sure if it's the same or not, but one fix is shifting it into high range inside the trans, and another is jumping the rev limiter wires. again, this is on the daihatsu but i believe there are similarities between the white truck and the american market daihatsus.
     
  4. fupabox

    fupabox Active Member

    I drove a suzuki years ago that a friend had in California it had a metal box u nder the shifter that blocked 3rd and 4th gears...10 minutes and it was removed..don't know if this is the same set-up
     
  5. MiniBrutes

    MiniBrutes Gold Supporting Member

    If it is speed controlled and not RPM based, there should be a sensor, likely on the transmission. Unplugging this sensor may allow you to run unrestricted. Of course if your speedometer is electronically controlled, this will disable your speedo.

    Some of the Japanese vehicles have a sensor in the speedometer itself. In reality, it shouldnt be too hard to disable electrically.

    The transmission may be another story. Yes, the Japanese trucks have a plate under the shifter that is easy to remove. But that is an add-on before export. Your cushman is likely governed right from the factory. There may be parts missing, shafts locked, or who knows otherwise possibly right inside the transmission.
     
  6. senor roho

    senor roho New Member

    rev/speed limiter

    I recently purchased a 1990 Cushman white truck. The easiest way I found to eliminate the rev/speed limiter was to get rid of the Cushman module (located next to the coolant res.) and the stock coil.

    Step 1: Purchase a coil/igniter for a '84-'85 Toyota 4 cyl. non EFI truck. I suggest finding one from a salvage yard as a new one will be kinda pricey.

    Step 2: Mount it SOLIDLY to the chassis near the distributor.

    Step 3: Wire it up. There are two connectors on the coil/igniter. Each of them have two wires in them. One connector goes to the distributor and the other connector powers it.

    One connector will have a pink wire in it. run it to a switched positive source. You will need to find a terminal in the fuse block that is "hot" when the key is on, as well as when the engine is cranking. easy to find with a test light. Leave the other wire in this connector alone.

    The other connector has two wires that need to be connected to the two wire connector coming from the distributor. not sure on the colors, but if your truck doesn't start, or spits and sputters, switch them around.

    Step 4: Connect the coil wire on the distributor to the Toyota coil.

    Step 5: remove the fuse marked "GOV" in the fuse block. This will disable the annoying light in the gauge cluster.

    Step 6: ENJOY! Engine should rev as high as you want through all the gears.

    This only took me about 45 min. to do and has worked flawlessly.
    Now I am working on figuring out 4th and 5th gear. Seems to be inside the transmission.
     
  7. slimbad

    slimbad Member

    senor roho,

    Welcome aboard (with a great informative write-up), I have a Cushman project van. I have not spent much time with it (play with my Mits truck too much).

    As for as the transmission you prob have internal blocks to your 4/5 gears. Dan has resolved the problem in two different blocking scenarios in the LHD Mits trannys. You can see a pictorial of the breakdown in the photo gallery. Just go to personal galleries and look under "D" and he has two different sets of pix that describes the "fix".

    But, yeah the Cushmans are 5-spd with 4/5 blocked. The shifter knob on mine actually has the 4 and 5 stamped out, but you can see where they are...........later, slim
     
  8. ozzie

    ozzie New Member

    senor roho-

    I am in the middle of the procedure you suggest to replace the coil/igniter on my cushman. I had bought a new aftermarket coil for an '84/'85 non-EFI toyota 4 cylinder. This coil has 2 spade terminals on it. So, in fact, I do not have the 4 wires that you suggest in step 3. Got any thoughts? I'm stumped on this right now. Appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks.

    OZ
     
  9. ozzie

    ozzie New Member

    Did you ever figure out 4th & 5th gears Cheers, OZ
     
  10. gregworks

    gregworks New Member

    any one figure out how to unblock the cushman transmission 4 and 5 gear?
     
  11. gregworks

    gregworks New Member

    4 and 5th gears

    The shift shafts inside the transmission were lengthened at the factory to prevent access to fourth and fifth. Take the transmission apart and have the shafts shortened about 1/2 and inch. It cost me 25 at the local machine shop and a weekend to get them working properly. Works just fine now in fourth and fifth. With the governor gone mine will max out at about 70 mph.

    Still having carb issues with mine any one know where to get carb parts for these things, a rebuild kit or new replacement? I have the 33DH VS -150.:frustration:
     
  12. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Active Member Staff Member

    heh thats some determinations there.
     
  13. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    little help, please

    Has anybody else got this to work? The igniter I found for the Toy has 4 connectors and 2 wires each. I don't want to buy a $314 igniter and a $30 coil and not have it work out. The van sits right now with no spark at all, with the foctory parts.
    I got a hold of Cushman and they have droped the white truck/van line and said parts are hard to find.
     
  14. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    new hope

    Found the igniter that looks right. Listed as a 1984 Toy, SR5 MFI. Still pricey $175+30 for coil. But looks right so we'll see.
     
  15. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    It works, it works!!!!!

    30 mins after the parts got to the shop it was running. The gov/rev limiter is gone. Life is good. The parts came from Car Quest, igniter module #ECC 55-1806 and the coil # is ECC 52-1919. Total was $216.84 but with no factory parts, it works. Wires up easy. White wire on igniter goes to the green wire on the dist/hall switch, Black igniter wire goes to the red dist/hall switch. Power up the red wire on the coil and it's done. There is a yellow wire in the connecter with the red just leave it alone. Now if the boss will let me open the trans for 4-5 gear.:)
     
  16. bigtoejones

    bigtoejones New Member

    I need pictures. Is the ignitor and coil different? The coil is to the rear of the coolant resivor accessed through the bed. Ignitor is where? Thanks, Eric
     
  17. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    needed parts

    igniter is inside the factory dist, just leave it alone.Go to Rockauto.com they have a good pic of the igniter. It fits a Toyota 1984 SR5 truck. just look up this part # 7067. Shows they have 2 left and it's cheaper. buy the coil and igniter. I can't post pics at work and that is where the van is. Hope this helps.
     
  18. bigtoejones

    bigtoejones New Member

    still no worky

    I am stumped. Is my igniter bad? I wired it up. White igniter wire ti green distributor wire. Black to red. Then red wire from igniter to positive on coil. Took factory rev A modal out. Purple wire from the bundle goes to the fuse box and marked gov. I sliced this wire and ran a new wire to positive on coil.
    This did not work. Coil is a molar coil. I then ran a wire from negative to a ground screw on the frame. What did I miss. The truck runs great w other rev A mod and molar coil, just 22the mph. I get 12 volts out if the igniter. I am going crazy. Help......
    Thx Eric
     
  19. bigtoejones

    bigtoejones New Member

    Auto correct stinks. Molar = mopar
     
  20. rbwbigcountry

    rbwbigcountry New Member

    I hate governer

    I to bought one of the cushmans and cannot stand the governer system. I purchased the igniter and coil off of ebay motors today, so hopefully by end of week i will be governer free.
     

Share This Page