Hi everyone! I’m new to the mini truck world and the forum. Thanks for having me. I’ve owned my ‘93 HiJet (S82 if that’s right) for around 3 weeks. The previous owner started working on it after it sat for 3 years and just couldn’t get it running and gave up on it. I changed the oil and filter and started cleaning the carb. Found a video on YouTube for adjusting the carb. Took 3 tried but finally got it running really good and reliable. I did however buy a new carb with the manual choke after attempt #2 of cleaning the carb. I want to put this carb on and do away with the auto choke items to lessen future (hopefully) headaches. I have searched the forum and I don’t see any info on gaskets needed (if any) or what vacuum lines go where and which ones get plugged. Just wondering if any could share that info with me. I’d also like to see a vacuum diagram if possible too. I’m not sure I got them all back where they are supposed to go. I lost my diagram I made to wind and rain so I had to make guesses where they went. I’m sure I got something wrong because the high idle screw assembly never get vacuum to pull it up once it’s warmed up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
For whatever reason my signature isn’t showing up. So in short: Type: V-S82P-PRK Chassis Number: S82P-133999 Year: 1993 Electric fuel pump installed by P/O 3 way dump bed on back (tilt back, tilt right, tilt left)
Well the truck sounds really cool. Limestone did one of the manual choke carb setups on his truck. Maybe he can give you some pointers. Hopefully your 3-way dump has the same ability to get the bed up and out of the way to allow good access to everything as mine does. The stock setup, working through the access hatch would require an extra wrist to do anything complicated. Unfortunately I don’t have the vacuum diagram for your truck, and can’t give you much help there. I have the diagram for the S110 series and can send that if you want. Hopefully someone will show with the correct one for your rig. The S82 designation means that if it is still the original engine, the engine is 660-cc, EF series engine.
Aaron, I've got a 93' S83P (very similar to yours) and am thinking about swapping my carb for an aftermarket manual choke as well. Did you end up doing this? Did you take any pictures or videos? I'm just curious how easy/hard it was and what your results were. I believe my stock carb is the reason for my fueling issue but not 100% sure.
Well let me try to re cap Mine! I had my original Carb. re built by a very experienced Carb. re builder friend of mine, who stated that these little truck carb's are extremely complicated, and they don't have to be! After he rebuilt it, the two wire solenoid, developed a leak, in it's casing, upon re instillation. I can't find a two wire solenoid, any where, so I have the original, newly rebuilt carb., on the shelf! So I went with the aftermarket, manual choked carb., last yr. I've tweaked it to where I've got it running pretty good! If I have any problems at all, my next move, like some on here have suggested, is to go with a simple, single barrel carb., because I truly believe, that's all these little things need! A few like the Rhino, carb., and a few like the Mikuni, carb. ! Now with that being said, in the change over, the issues are the manual choke,(no problem), and the Vacuum lines! For me, when I did mine, I marked all my Vac. lines before I took them off, making it a lot easier to re connect them! I will re place them all with new silicone tubing, color coded(like jigs did), first chance I get! When I do things like this, I do one at a time, and mark everything!!! Makes my life easier! The manual choke for me was simple, cuz left hand drive, permits me to use my left hand, feathering the choke when needed, under the seat, behind my left knee when in the seat! Leaving my right hand free for steering wheel or shifting! Once the engine is warmed up, no more choke feathering is needed! Plan your moves! Plan where you want your choke, and where it will connect to your carb., then plan your route, and measure the correct choke cable length needed, I used a simple, Dorman brand 6' cable, from, advance auto,(everyone has it)! Or go online and order it! Look at how your cable attaches to the carb, and move your eccentric connection, working the butterfly manually, to understand how you need to attach your cable to move freely, without binding! Remember, installing the choke cable, needs to be secured, and free moving, inside the sheath! Don't crimp the cable sheath when securing! I used small insulated cable clamps, that I had on the shelf, to secure mine! You need to make sure that the cable sheath is secure, and doesn't move, when operating the cable, because any movement needs to be directed to the cable and not the cable sheath itself! So when you are feathering your choke cable knob, you can really tell the difference and, this will eliminate a lot of problems down the road! The original carb. has a temperature sensitive choke system, that is controlled by the coolant lines, connected to the carb. I just looped them, to continue coolant flow, and eliminating the original temperature controlled choke system, allowing for the manual choke! If the aftermarket carb's had the coolant controlled choke system, naturally the manual choke wouldn't be needed! I hope this helps. Remember no questions are stupid or wrong! Good Luck! L;imestone
Here are a couple of pictures of my '93 S82 after I replaced the vacuum lines but before I Put the aftermarket carb on. It might help you. My aftermarket carb is really cold natured. It takes several minutes to warm up in >50° weather.
Do they make a manual carb for the s100/s110 series? Saw the one for the previous gen on minitruckusa.
I’m fairly certain that the carb for an S82 or S83 would work on an S110. The primary diffence in the card was the emissions, and number of vacuum nipples, and the aftermarket carb has less emissions fittings than the stock carb.
I don't know if this will help because I don't read Japanese, but I believe it to be the vac diagram for the S83P (EF series engines). No legend, so not the most helpful diagram in the world, sorry.
I have a 91 s80lp jtrck. Right hand drive. I think its the EB motor. Is that carb the same as the EF?
Gabe, The EF Series (660 cc), was designed to replace the EB Series (550cc) Engine! I'm not so sure they use the same Carburetor or not. Maybe some one with more experience with more than one Mini truck, like myself, can chime in and answer that! Sorry! Limestone
looking at the emissions control, vacuum hose routing, and pictures of the carbs: The S80 series has a less complicated carburetor than the S100 series trucks. Which makes sense. The S100s were the last ones before they went to fuel injection. And had two more ported vacuum nipples than the S80 series had. Typically the manufacturers went to fuel injection only after they exhausted all posssible options for meeting emissions with a carburetor. Looking at it in retrospect it seems stupid. But maybe the Japanese Fuel Injection technology, wasn’t very well developed yet. The US and European manufacturers were still using throttle body injection, and theirs wasn’t very well developed. I remember working on, and trying to tune the Bosch Fuel injection on my mom’s early eighties Volvo. That system was one of the most unnecessarily complex things I ever worked on. I gave up, and bought a Weber Carburetor conversion kit. That, I could tune up and tweak, to get the car to start cold, and hot, and have clean plugs.
when changing over to the Rhino carb, where did you route the distributor vacuum advance hose to ? My understanding is the vacuum retard hose connects directly to the intake manifold, but the advance host has to connect to the carb - ported in front of the throttle plate. Is there another suitable location for this ?
MMS - I'm intrigued by the orange vac lines, i've been considering redoing mine and the orange makes an easy reference as to which lines have been done. what size tubing did you use (is it all the same on an S83p EFCS) and about how many linear feet did it take?
How is it running with mechanical choke? Do you have pictures of it installed and what vacuum lines have been deleted or using?
As a followup, we did the OEM-to-manual choke carb swap a few weeks back and I couldn't be happier. Went from a sea of vac line/vac delay valves to just 2 on the carb. Motocheez has a recent video where he puts one on and it shows some of the tweaks needed to get the Ebay/Amazon carbs installed - although mine had a bit of a different interface/flange on the manifold side than his did. Thanks again to all those who contributed carb/vacuum knowledge in this thread, it was very helpful.
I think this is great news! This will be good news for Future Carb., swappers! I think added pics, with explanations would be an appreciated touch! Nice Job! Limestone
Sure. I've still got to get the choke cable how I want it before I do pictures, but here is what I learned and things that were helpful: Watch first: Motocheez Youtube video on carb install (I referred to this video a bunch while doing the install) Carb i purchased: Fenghu Heavy-Duty Carburetor Carb, Fit for Daihatsu Hijet S80 S81 S82 S83 EB EF HB HD Citivan Suzuki 370Q S-75/S-88, Replaces 21100-87B65 21100-87766 - I paid $89. Helpful items I found to have around: Correct barb to go from the fuel line to the new carburetor. Mine was an M10x1.25 thread for the carb side, and 1/4" barb on the fuel line side. This (M10x1.25) isn't a common size of barb. I ended up ordering a banjo bolt off Ebay to fit, and ordered a steel barb from China as a backup. 1/4" to 3/8" reducer barb - Lowes sells this. This is to splice the coolant lines from the old carb together. gasket material. I bought this from amazon. RTV for coating the gasket and the flanges 6mm hex socket for removing the lower carb flange bolt 2-3 feet of extra vacuum line 5 vacuum tees vacuum caps/port plugs. I got these, they kind of suck - not very flexible and most are bigger than what you need for a hijet. 2-3 feet of extra fuel line (mine is 1/4" ID or the metric equivalent, yours might be different) 2-3 feet of 3/8 coolant hose to make the bypass Extra coolant to refill what you lose dozen ring or constant pressure hose clamps 2 pairs of needle nose vise grip pliers for pinching off the coolant lines while you splice them together Vacuum gauge for testing vacuum lines Labels/color coding stickers for marking vacuum line as manifold, venturi, or atmosphere/air cleaner. Also specifically label the line from the vacuum advance. golf tees for plugging unneeded vacuum lines while you're installing. This way you can switch back to the OEM carb easier if you run into trouble. If you use color coded tees, you won't need labels. Propane torch for finding vacuum leaks I basically followed along with the video after taking a lot of pictures pre-install to make sure I could go back if I had to. The loose order was: Test and label all the vacuum lines that go into the carb. Don't worry about vac lines that don't. Remove the labelled and unneeded vac lines and plug them with golf tees. Atmospheric lines you can leave open at this point, and then run them to the airbox later. Disconnect the throttle cable. Make the coolant hose a loop - the line going into the top of the carb near the choke was 1/4"ish ID, while the line connecting near the distributor was 3/8"ish ID. This is where that reducer barb comes in handy. You can pinch the coolant lines to reduce coolant loss using the vise grips - its in the video. Ring clamps on all connections. We made mine longer so that it didn't pinch closed and keep the coolant from flowing. pull the fuel line off the old carb and let it drain. Disconnect the carb shutoff solenoid. Remove the OEM carb - there is a bolt on the top of the carb with the bolthead towards the passenger side and the front of the truck. The bottom bolt is on the driver's side, below the carb throat and to the back of the truck. The bottom bolt uses 6mm hex. It wasn't hard to get to once I pulled the air cleaner hose off. Mine had a plate between the old carb and the manifold. The plate has plastic on one side and metal on the other (we're guessing for thermal isolation of the carb). it has coolant running through it, so when you pull it off, you'll lose a little bit of coolant. I don't remember that from the video, but it was on my truck. Cut a new gasket using the plate as a template. Test fit the carb and use the bolts to check for alignment. Like Motocheez, the rear side (that holds the throttle and choke linkages) was hanging up on this big chunk of the block/bellhousing. After a bit of bending things upward, everything fit well and could actuate OK. Just take your time - bend a little, then test fit. keep repeating until everything fits and can actuate. We also had to bend a small bracket tab near where the new carb flange mates up with the manifold. Cover the gasket, carb side of the plastic/metal plate, and new carb flange with RTV. Motocheez uses grease, i've never tried that. There is a little inlet/channel on the new carb flange (that doesn't exist on the old carb) that I filled in with RTV to keep it from leaking. Motocheez points this out as well. Make sure the plastic/metal plate's holes align with the coolant holes when you remount it. Snug up the top bolt and bottom hex bolt. Attach the fuel barb if you haven't already. Reconnect the fuel line. In my case I had to make the fuel line from the pump to the carb longer as not to have such a sharp bend where it went into the carburetor. Reconnect the shutoff solenoid. Reconnect the throttle cable. Attach the line from the vacuum advance to the new carb near its center, between the solenoid and the manifold. there is another barb on the new carb near the fuel barb - that is just a bowl vent as far as we can tell, so connect that to your Atmosphere/air cleaner line. At this point, you're ready to try and start the truck. Having two people helps, so you can have someone tuning the carb and actuating the choke while someone else sits in the drivers seat to give it gas/start it. Most of the adjustments we made to the idle speed were on the actual linkage/springs (towards the back of the truck) and not to the golden screw on the carb itself. Near as we can tell the smaller brass screw above the butterfly is the adjustment screw, and the bigger one is similar to the plastic gear/idle air control on the stock carb. Make sure your coolant bypass hose gets warm once you've been running for a few minutes, otherwise you may have a bubble and have to bleed it. Once you've got it where you want it and are happy, start getting rid of the pile of vac lines you don't need and put those caps on. Run all the atmospheric lines to the air cleaner. Motocheez goes over the clutch cable install, I haven't gotten that far yet.
Did the Carb swap to manuel choke with the $89 ebay carb. Have some questions about the timing and information on the carb swap. Thanks to all the info on here particularly the thread- " Carburetor replacement " youtube videos by motocheez. I replaced the carb on mine and did a few things different but really running good now. Have some information to share and also some questions. 1- the made in china carb seems that the fuel/air adjustment screws are somewhat loose fitting but they do the job. 2- tuning new carb- mine seems to be running best with the big screw ( the one close to the intake manifold ) set at about 5 1/2 turns out and the smaller screw at about 5/8 out from close. 3 timing set- at about 12 BTDC at 950 - I am concerned about this since it should be about 7 as per specs. the timing was adjusted to this because the engine would bog when pressing throttle from an idle and it would even have a slight backfire at times. Tried adjusting air / fuel screws but would not help. With the timing set at 12 reconnected spark advance lines and observed 30 BTCD at 950 rpm and 32 at 2000 and 40 at 3000. Must note here all was done with a harbor freight adjustable timing light. The ambient air temperature was 67 F - and the temperature guage was at about 1/4 away from cold with the radiator fan cycling. I have test driven at two different temps. outside - 42 f and 71 f and both times ran really good only thing I had different in both test is the manuel choke was adjusted more when it was 42 f. I did the throttle/ choke bracket a little different than the other post, I cut and rewelded the bracket as seen in picture. For the choke cable connection at the carb I just bent with needle nose and klien's and secured with small cable tie. Also learned more about the warm air/ air canister parts even though I am not using it -see picture.
Jerry, I did the carb swap with initial mixed results. I set my timing to 10BTDC @ 1000 rpm because that’s what it was when I got the truck. I Assume it was a factory setting because it only had 60K kilometers at that point but doesn’t mean it wasn’t adjusted. This timing plus the carb tuning lead to extremely rich running condition similar to your example of it bogging down on heavy throttle up. I leaned out the carb as much as the adjustment screws would allow and have achieved a good balance. Looking at the plugs, it’s maybe 5-10% rich but it’s safe. I got rid of the factory air cleaner because of I was tired of having to order them on line and it’s so restrictive. Changing that, plus the carb completely changed my truck. So worth it.
I have a 93 daihatsu hijet I’m having the issue with the stock carb idles runs but bogs out towards higher end of gears. When I had after market carb on it bogged out bud towards lower end of gears never died but like it was sucking for more gas. On the after market carb what size jet do you guys have in it. Mine might also sound like a Timming issue then. I’m just trying to get this puppy running smooth and start saving some gas from my daily driver. Also we unplugged a bunch of vaccum lines wondering if that could be the issue as well. Basically just emission stuff.
I'm not sure if this is the right tread. I have a 93 s83p that I can not to get to idle. When I do get it to idle and rev, it bogs down and starts sputtering. I have cleaned out the gas tank( there was a lot of trash in it) and pulled out the carb and cleaned it out really well. The mechanical fuel pump stopped working so the previous owner installed a electric fuel pump. I have not tested the pressure on it yet. I have ordered a carb with manual choke and it should be here in a week. Any help would be appreciated thank you in advance.
I also have installed the Chinese manual choke carb. Installation went well - had to modify the cable linkage for clearance, and choke cable routing was straightforward. I am having problems getting it adjusted "perfectly". It starts and runs reasonably well. I have the idle mixture screw ( big one ) about 5 turns out, but the smaller one does not seem to make a difference . Does anybody know what this screw meters ? Is it air adjustment or fuel ? The brass fitting that it screws into has a flat blade screw slot in it. Is it removable ? and what is in there. The screw itself has a shallow taper and a flat end, and looks like possibly a spring at the bottom of the hole. I have an urge to remove this to be sure it is not blocked, but don't want to damage it. looking for advise. Also, will the main jet from my original carb fit into this one ?
I had a bit of time today, and it was not raining, so I attempted again to tune the Chinese carb. I finally got it to work really well at light throttle position ( 1/4 to 1/2 open ), but if I tried to push it on up hill grades, or just open it too much any time, it would just die. It finally dawned on me that this carb is just too big for the little 660 engine. The original carb is only a 28mm, and this one is @ 36mm. I have a short intake snorkel made from 1 1/2" PVC pipe with a low restriction K/N filter mounted on the rear of the cab. To test my theory, I put a 6" long piece of closed cell water pipe insulation inside the end of the snorkel, just below the filter - to restrict the intake. The difference is amazing. The truck has never run this good before. Throttle response is excellent, and I can mash it in any gear without getting any hesitation. I will now monitor it for fuel consumption over the next couple of weeks to see if it is running to rich, but it sure works good right now
Reagan, No Link, but Google MotoCheez SE05E09, Larger 32mm Carb. Enjoy the YouTube Video explaining it and you'll be good to Go! Good Luck! Limestone
