Big Problems. Just finished reinstalling my carb. And guess what, I will not start. I pulled it off and cleaned it yesterday and it will not start. I know it is getting fuel and I am pretty sure all hoses were put back correctly. Any suggerstions?:frustration:
Did you completly dis-assemble and clean? If so did you make any adjustments to the float height? When I cleaned mine I adjusted the float to the height in the service manual and it wouldn't start either so I re-adjusted the float to where it was and all was good.
I did not mess with the float or the butterflies, I just hosed everything down with b12 and seafoam. The only oops was, I broke what I would call the fuel cylinder at the flange. I JB welded it back togerther and it doesn't leak.
Not for sure how to put an arrow on the picture. The part is in the top center, where the two fuel lines come into the carb.
Another veiw of the carb and I've put arrow where I think you're describing. If this is correct the two lines are coolant lines that heat the choke control. The fuel line is the red braided line on the left hand side. Have you tried giving it a shot of starting fluid just verify it's a fuel problem? If it still won't start on the fluid then it's either flooded or not getting spark.
ok, that is the correct part that I broke. It is not leaking though. I just replaced the plugs,wires, and dist rotor two weeks ago. Although that doesnt mean I should have spark, the truck was running before I removed the carb.
old machinest- Although I didnt adjust the float I am about to pull the carb back off and double check everything. Where should I set the float? The only thing I did not do is hook up the line back to the vapor canister
Did you try some starting fluid? The manual says 16mm +-1mm but I don't remember where I ended up setting it. The fuel pump doesn't run on these with the key just in the run position. It only runs while cranking and engine running. I filled the carb with a syringe after cleaning because it took a lot of cranking to get fuel in the bowl.
I may be wrong but when I turn my key on the fuel pump begins clicking at a fast pace and then slows down. But I know that fuel is in the carb and have cranked it enough to have fuel in there.
Maybe thats something they changed on the later models I know my fuel pump only runs like I said. Might try pulling the spark plugs to see they're wet as it could be flooded. Also check to make sure the electrical connectors to the carb are not swapped. One is the fuel shut off solenoid and the other is air cut off.
ok, I pulled the plugs today and they were very black and they were just put in two weeks ago. After I cleaned them up and reinstalled them I turned the key and the truck started right up and for the first time it would idle. Then the truck started to smoke and continually got worse the longer it ran. Then I noticed coolant dripping on the ground. Could not find where it was coming from. Then I tried to drive it to see if the smoke would clear up. I had no power after shifting out of 1st. What the heck went wrong.
That was my first thought that the jb weld did not hold. As far as I can see and feel there is nothing leaking. The odd thing is it isnt leaking around the head. Its dripping the coolant from the backside of the block. I would love to see a diagram of the vacumme lines and where they go from the bottom of the carb. Its just weird that the truck did not smoke before and it has no power.
Old Mach, Well after a month of driving on the deer lease I have discovered my jb weld job did not hold. My question is what would happen if i by passed these coolant hoses going to the carb. Cold really isnt that big a factor in North Texas. If not the million dollar question is who would have this part.
If you bypass it the choke will take longer to open but since it not that cold where you are it may not be a problem. Finding a replacement for just that part would be difficult. You'd likely have to buy a complete carb.
I figured it would be tough to find just that part. I may try fixing mine again but I figured by passing it would work for now. The other project I was wondering about was by passing the sensors on both my fans. When I pulled my radiator I tested the fan and it worked, so I was thinking about setting the fan to a toggle switch and the same for the engine fan as well. What do you think of this idea.
No, both fans are good though. I tested both fans and they work. I actually discovered the fan under the bed by accident. I hosed out the cab one afternoon and appearantly got the relay wet and the fan came on. But it has never ran other than that time. I did try to by pass the hoses we discussed earlier and that was not the answer, the motor ran fast and would bog down when accelerated. I will have to pull the carb again and try and repair the flange again. With all this being said I still have the same problem that I started with, NO POWER. 40 kph in 3rd gear and loose everything when shifting into 4th. So the list continues, no power, overheating and broken part on carb. Life is good though.
As far as the fans, I still like the idea of having them on a toggle switch to run when I see fit and not depending on a sensor that fails.
I have the same issue of the radiator fan not coming on. I'm considering the toggle switch too. Someone suggested that the switch also be hooked to the key switch. That would avoid someone forgetting the switch on and killing the battery
Thats a good idea as long as you have the toggle switch as well. I installed a radio in a buddies subaru last weekend and his fan came on with the key and would not go off even in acc mode. Maybe you and I can get old machinest down south for tutoring on these truck though. Seems to be a pretty sharp fellow.
The sensor for the radiator fan should turn the fan on when the coolant in the bottom tank reaches 200F and shut it off at 185F. If it not coming on the engine thermostat may be missing or stuck open. The sensor for the fan back by the engine comes on when the temp at the sensor reaches 140F and off at 125F. I assume this fan is for times when you might be stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. I think I've only heard mine come on once in three years.
I know I've never heard the radiator fan come on, except when I gave it 12 volts. I know I can change the sensor and maybe it will work. As far as the thermostat is concerned it could be bad. To be honest ive never found where the thermostat is located.
I went ahead and ordered a new sensor, Hopefully it will work when I get it on. I had to shift my attention back to the carb. The coolant bowl started leaking again really bad, and truck started overheating. Had plenty of coolant so Im guessing with a leak in the system it was getting air pockets. Busted out the JB Weld again and went and found O rings and using gasket maker to see if it will hold..
carb problems continue Ok, still haven't gotten my sensor in so I decided to pull my carb again and replace all my vac lines. Got it all back together and truck still has no power after 3rd gear. hear are some odd things, when first started it smokes like a freight train, gets warmed up and it quits smoking. Then the over heating starts. It will climb to almost pegging the gauge and it will go back down for a while then climb again. Ive opened the two top bleeds and it still continues. Old Machinest, you had answered some one else about removing the hose on top of the carb and there motor would race. When I remove mine it dies.
The hose the other member posted about was the hose going to the intake manifold right where the carb attaches. The hose on top the carb controls the variable venturi piston. Your overheating problem sounds like air in the system. I think you asked before where the thermostat was. It's on the bottom of the engine where the two coolant hoses hook. What color is the smoke when you start it?
The hose going into the carb/intake is the one I was talking about. As far as the air in the line I will try to bleed it off again. What do you think the lack of power would be? The compression on the truck is good.
