I just switched my plugs to E3 Diamond fire plugs http://www.e3sparkplugs.com, They are absolutely amazing. I could immediately feel a difference in throttle response, also runs a lot smoother. I'm not usually one for "gimmick" plugs, but I had bought one of these for my lawn mower and was very impressed by the increase in torque. It handled long grass much better than before, so I thought, if it works for my mower it should also work for my Mini. As I stated above, it was definitely a noticeable difference. You can cross reference your current plug here http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/pdf/e3autocross.pdf. I bought mine at Checker Auto for 5.99/each, but they are available at most automotive stores.
it kinda looks like a newer idea of the old split fires... i typically run the bosch +4 in my cars, they have 4 different things that come up to the electrode. i haven't put them in my truck yet though, so maybe i'll try what you have.
They kindof reminded me of the +3 and +4's except that all the electrodes are connected. According to the website, that forces the explosion to be directed to the center of the piston.
Riiiiight... Electricity takes the path of least resistance, so it's only going to jump to one of those ground straps. Flamefront propagation is a function of chamber shape and quench, not the plug. Colin
I put extended-tip iridium plugs in my roadrace motorcycle (after first checking to make sure they will fit without the piston hitting them!) and they seem to allow the part-load jetting to be a bit leaner without driveability problems that are present at the same carb setting with standard plugs. Throttle response is a bit better when it's set like that, and the slightly leaner setting doesn't load up the piston with carbon as much. I have not tried the E3 Diamondfire, but it would be interesting to see a comparison between those and iridium plugs.
Hah, I just checked the crossover chart, and it looks like I won't be doing that comparison! They have no equivalent to NGK CR9E, nor any M10x1.0mm plugs at all! Colin's comment is true - as long as the mixture is easily ignitable. Under weak-mixture conditions (lean, or transitioning between closed throttle and just barely picking up the load - on a roadrace motorcycle this transition must be as smooth as possible) a normal spark plug has a fair bit of quench right at the spark gap itself. The iridium plugs have a very small center electrode, which reduces the surface area. The spark still fires the same, but the theory is that there is less surface area to quench the newly-ignited flame, which can happen under lean or weak or high-EGR conditions.
Not to take away from the main conversation, but since it was mentioned about electricity taking the path of least resistance (implying that it only takes that path), I have to add a little. Electricity will actually take every path available, in inverse proportion to its resistance. So while it is true that electricity takes the path of least resistance, it also simultaneously takes paths of higher resistance. For those interested in more technical electrical issues, do a search for Mike Holt.
I put the NGK IX Iridium's [part # BKR6EIX] in my S/C and I think that they are partly responsible for the very good HP figure I got on the dyno. The factory rates the engine at 43 KW = 57.66 HP. I presume this is at the rear wheels but not certain. The engine is all stock except for the Irdium plugs and that I used 94 Octane plus booster to bring it to 99 Octane. Also I drained the transaxle and replaced with Redline synthetic fluid. That's why I was suprised when it put out the 69 HP on the dyno which is 18% more HP than stock. I wouldn't mind seeing a back to back with the E3 Diamond [same Co who did splitfire BTW] but it gets kind of $$$ to invest in two sets of plugs. My bottom line is I do believe you get results by investing in the more expensive plug regardless of the brand you choose.
I changed my plugs today. I was going to get some E3's but Advanced Auto didn't have my particular plug number in that brand. Oh well....I just got the original NGK's. The old ones were well worn for only having 44k kms.
What do you guys think about this "gimmik" plug. It has a built in coil/capacitor to increase spark. http://www.pulstarpulseplugs.com/default.asp?KID=3340
I wouldn't count it out until I tried it out. Looks like about $25.00/ ea. How this compares to the Diamond E3 and the NKG Irdium's on a $$ per horsepower gained or fuel economy is anybodys guess. I know I paid $11.00 CAD for my NGK IX's, and the fuzz paid $6.00/ ea for the E3's so I would have to see substantial more benefit for the extra $$$ involved to buy this plug.
looks like just that, a gimmick. the only things i have noticed to be helpful with ignition systems is more power. hotter coil, bigger plug wires and MSD. the more power you get to the plug the bigger you can gap the plugs and expose more fire to the cylinder. i just don't see how a plug can "amplify" the spark... JMHO
But, But. Look at the testimonial....The poor guy was only getting 16mpg out of his 4cyl Sky roadster and now he's getting 19 (the EPA est for that car), and the dyno results....3Hp and 3ft/lbs trq. avg. out of a dodge SRT-4??? Now..all I need to do is fork out $75 for a set of plugs compared to the $6 I just spent for some NGK v-powers.
wyatt: Need more info. I'm guessing you have a 3G83 engine but is it a 2 valve or 4 valve head? Here's for both types: 4 valve heads use the following NGK plugs: NGK IX Irdium BKR6EIX-11 part # 3764 or NGK V Power BKR6E-11 part # 2756 2 valve heads use the following NGK plugs: NGK IX Irdium BPR5EIX-11 part # 2115 or NGK Reg Plug BPR5ES-11 part # 7634
sorry about that...it is a 4 valve 3g83 from japan thanks for the NGK #'s...is there a bosch #?...i guess i could just cross it. thanks for the info, i am sure glad i found this forum! wyatt
