Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by Meansealvel, Sep 13, 2013.
And you say dont install new springs?? How did i end up ordering them
If you got new springs use them. Stock springs are rated around 175lbs. I think. If you want stiffer front end get some 225 to 275 lbs springs. All depends on if you are going to install a brush guard / winch / snow plow ect. There is plenty of write ups on this forum about springs, use search function.
The possibility of water in the tank? Drain fuel tank. Get a flash light and look in the fuel tank and see its its clean. You will have to hold open the little flapper to see into tank. Use a close hanger. If it looks reddish color in tank or you see junk pull fuel tank and clean it out.
Sea foam, disconnect fuel line at tank and pour about 2 cups of sea foam into a jar, start engine and let the fuel pump do the rest. When sea foam starts making the engine die shut it down(carb. will be full) and let it sit for a couple of hrs. even better over night.
Vacuum lines if they look like original replace all of them. Should have been done when engine was rebuilt??
Yeah i had ordered the springs a while back now, just been sitting in the garage. They're 225 lb. ill have a look in the fuel tank the best im able, it has been raining like a bastad lately but i dont see how it could have made its way into the tank, then again i dont know how the sand got past my filter either. What about the giant hole in my muffler? Is there any way that could be affecting how the truck runs? I assume no but someone told me it could be.....
Condensation can and will build up in fuel tanks.
We have pulled fuel tanks a number of times over the yrs. and found a reddish fine rust inside.
Hole in exhaust system, depends on how big. The engine has to have to some degree the right amount of back pressure.
Your exhaust pipe end hole, plus the giant hole in muffler will make a difference in back pressure. As to how much a difference I dont know. With two holes in exhaust system I would think it would run sluggish. Guys that design engines know just how big the exhaust exit hole needs to be. No more no less.
You know I keep on suggesting things but not knowing anything about the history of the truck you have to cover all the simple basics first then get on with the more tech. things.
Simple things like oxidation build up on contacts inside of dist./rotor can make a huge difference, water in fuel tank another huge difference, oil fouled plugs, dirty air filter, leaking vacuum lines, bad gas ect. ect.
Take one thing at a time and correct it if needed.
Thanks Trax! You've been super helpful!
Now that you mention it ive had to replace a number of fuel filters already, must have got a few bad tanks of fuel, or some sediment got kicked up.... and if i recall correctly there was a slightly reddish tint on the filters, actually fairly obvious i guess so i suppose this would be a good place to start. As for the hole in the exhaust, its substantial! A good amount of the muffler! Still trying to figure out what to do about replacing it. And as for dist./rotor i did buff those a little a few months back, plugs should have been addressed with engine rebuild but ill have to check, air filter is clean..... Not so sure about vac lines, isnt there something that I can spray with truck running to figure out if there are any leaks??
Either way all good suggestions and ill take it one at a time, have a feeling its in the carb.
Poor mans way vacuum leak finder-Can of brake cleaner or start fluid, with little red tube. With a fairly cold engine (I wouldnt do it with a engine at running temp.) start it and spray the vacuum lines one at a time, when it idles up theres your leak. Your vacuum leaks most likely will be where hoses connect to nipples or where hoses make a 90 degree turn.
If they are old replace all of them. Your vacuum hoses will run from carb. down to front diff., over to air box, rear of transmission and back towards the fuel tank. These trucks have about two miles of vacuum lines.
So ive been pretty busy over the last week, got the lift kit installed which turned out to be a lot more work than what i was expecting. Anyway, as for getting the truck running right i figured it would make sense to start with the things im sure have issues. I brought my mini to a shop last week to see what they could do about the muffler and they were basically stumped. Granted its a tire shop but there's no real exhaust shop where i live so its the best i could do. They said there is no 1 3/8" automotive pipe anywhere.... they were clueless! Can anyone tell me what the best solution is for replacing exhaust? Looks to me like the pipe is all fine but the muffler is junk. Can i simply have the existing muffler cut out and replace it with something else or what?
For vacuum leaks I use a mason jar with twisted up toilet paper in it. In the lid I poke 2 holes. I put 1/8th inch clear hose in them. Light the toilet paper on fire........make sure its twisted tight so it smolders, not burst into flame........... Once you get the lid on and the paper is making lots of smoke............... You can put one hose in your mouth, keep blowing in the jar so the smoke doesn't stop. The paper will go out when it runs out of oxygen hahahaha. Any way.......... Take the other hose and run it past whatever your checking for leaks. Works great!!! I'd post a pic if I could.........
If the engine runs good to great cold, but runs worse after warm up.......... Could be a leak in the intake manifold. Seen lots of them........... Also could be one of the vacuum lines on the timed vacuum port are in the wrong place or just not on.......... Could also have a vac line or two just hanging somewhere........... I'd triple check the timing belt. I put mine on 4 times before it was actually on the right way. Had the lines lined up and everything. But after running it for a bit.........I'd recheck it..........and be a tooth off. Was very frustrating!!!!!!!
If you have the springs............ Bring the struts down to an auto shop and have them swap em. You'll be happy you did!!! Much more stable, can handle running at an angle better.. And most importantly...............you won't feel like your in a boat any more hahaha
On the muffler............ I removed my stock pipe, cleaned out the catiletic converter and ran 1 1/2" strait pipe. I just turn the radio up when I get tired of the noise. I did have to tweak the timing a bit.............. But way worth doing. Better fuel economy as well as a noticeable difference in the power.
Blahahahah! I am Portuguese but a few generations removed, thats quite the technique bro Ill try and check the vac lines this week, ill probably just bring it back to the mechanic who rebuilt the engine and tell em figure it out because it should have been running right after that was dealt with.... But ill have a looksie anyway!
As for the springs, already got them on, lift kit too. But oh man you should have seen us getting those spring in... WHoally *#@(... Didn't have the right tools so we figured out how to get them apart fairly easily... But getting them back together with the new springs was interesting to say the least! We ended up getting the bottom part of the strut with springs and the upper mounting assembly on and jacking the spindle/hub up until the bolt on top of the strut pushed through the whole in the body just under the seat and got the nut on! But wow it took a few tries anyway, had to put a board sticking up into the ceiling to hold the body down too! Hilarious! You would have loved it moose! I suspect anyway LOL! Thanks again Moose! Any suggestions on correcting my camber now that the truck has been lifted? I was under the impression the lift i bought was designed to maintain all factory angles but there is most def a positive camber on there! Ive looked at the camber adjustment bolts but still not sure how exactly they work or if they would on my mitsu....
So did you install a new muffler? Or is it literally just straight pipe from the cat back??? And how loud are you talking? Obnoxious or just annoying? I kind of dont care but i dont want to sound like some spectacle driving down the road... or beach
Not to mention i could run the straight pipe myself
Ehh Trax??? Do you know anything about the camber adjustment bolt kits????
Hahahaha I've had to use the board trick too hahahaha
The muffler isn't too obnoxious. The kids seem to like it. I think I'm just getting old............... You will have to tweak the timing if you strait pipe it or your lifters will clatter due to the lack of back pressure.
Now the fun part your probably not going to enjoy until its done.................
The lift that you put on essentially pushes the wheel down. What its doing is using available travel and shifting the "neutral" position of the arm/wheel, to a lower point. Then when you put the stiffer spring on.............. They took weight off the shock. Allowing it to stretch so to speak............. Pushing the wheel even farther down in its available range of travel............... So........... Let's sat that stock the wheel CAN travel 12 inches up and down. Neutral position would assumably be roughly at the 6 inch mark. ( these aren't accurate numbers, just easy reference)....... So when you put the lift block on top of the strut, it shifted that neutral position down to 4 inches rather then 6.............. Add the inch or so that the stiffer springs will add and now let's say that neutral position becomes 3 inches............ Yes you just lifted the rig............. But in doing so........ You essentially pushed the suspension down in its range of motion............... Nothing else is lowered............. So.......... In order to fix the camber and the axle angle so you don't wear out those super expensive axles, your going to have to lower the entire front end so that you can return the stock range of motion and stock angles. Its easier then it sounds. I was able to do it!!!!!! I know that you can!!!! I did a pretty good weight up on it here in the group. Should have all the info ya need. I mean.......... I pulled off a 7 inch lift............ And I'm just a guy that lives in an igloo with my pet penguins!!!!!!!
So your saying the camber adjustment bolts probably arent going to resolve my problem! Blast! Drop the whole front end... i mean i think i know what your saying but! That means the front diff, transfer case! And cross member bar.... Not to mention wont that effectively bring my clearance back down as well? Argh! I just dont understand, i guess ill have to contact the guy who sole me the kit but i was told this lift would mainatain factory angles... Maybe im still within the tolerances? Welp ill look at your thread for sure! Whats the name of the thread? Either way thanks again amigo!
A question that is asked often, and I think that the guys here tend to make things a little too complicated sometimes.
Especialy when the ultimate answer to a solution can swing action so dramatically from easy, to hard.
Will a camber correction bolt work for my application?
To solve my current camber correction adjustment problem?
Well, lets go back, back to "first principles".
The question of application;
1) do you have two bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle?
2) if yes, can both bolts be removed?
Then, remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom bolt.
Then, allow the system to compress (let the truck sit on the ground), compress so that the top of the strut, and the steering knuckle move inward, toward the engine bay. Like a lock-blade type knife, the two components angle inward to provide a camber adjustment, during normal operational loading, that align the tires to a position that seems to place the flats of the tires squarely on the ground. (tire tops have to move inward)
Role the truck back and forth 10 or so feet to let everything settle down into position.
Even if it's close, the inner part of the strut mounting can be ground down (surface removal) so that the system can be brought into alignment.
If this is even close, if this seems to look OK,
Then YES, a camber correction bolt will work for your application, and
You don't even need to buy anything to figure this out.
Just take the strut top mounting bolts out, and loosen the lowers, then let the truck adjust itself and sit as low as it can in this configuration,
The camber bolts, they just lock it all down, just as it now sits...
Spaner!! The elusive! Its been a long time thanks for the input buddy! Love the idea... Moose no disrespect here love ya to death bro but im sure what may seem pretty easy to you could be a lot more difficult for me, but thanks for the vote of confidence, ill bet i could do it too Then again Its taken me and my buddy a few sessions at least just to get the wheels i have to fit hahaha! Im sure by the time you've got your truck lifted 10 inches a measly 2" adjustment is peanuts but im an amateur at best here. Either way... that all makes sense spanner, ive actually already ordered the adjustment bolts that you had recommended on another thread just on the assumption it would work for my application. But if they dont come today ill def try loosening the bolt you speak of and removing top bolt..... I guess my only question for you is even if the bolts are able to correct my camber issue is the rest of my setup still within acceptable tolerances? In other words even if i get the wheels to sit flat am i going to blow up my front diff or other components due to the lift? Im obviously learning here but for some reason i thought when i was told that this style lif kit would maintain all factory angles it meant that i wouldn't have to worry about dropping my whole front end to match the lift. Anyway thanks again guys!
WTFO! I dont undertand :frustration: I installed the adjustment bolts and im not sure they did anything let alone enough to correct my camber problem. I mean im not even sure how the tires are supposed to sit but when i put a level up to the wheel when its grounded the bottom of the tire is a solid inch in from where the bottom of the level is... Is that like insane or not bad??? Like i said it doesnt seem like the camber bolts did much if anything, i followed directions, i could see the adjustment it was able to make but it just didnt seem like it was much better than the stock bolts. After installing them the wheel sat pretty much in the same spot on the ground.... with regard to the level i mean. ANyway i feel like ive done something wrong..... Unless the camber i have isnt as bad as i think... ANyway thats my update for now.
Ive been using the standard lift for many yrs. on our trucks. No slots. I bought a set of 3" lift off off ebay 7 yrs. + ago and my welder has been copying them ever since. After the first install we saw right off the bat the 3" wasnt going to work so we cut off a inch to make it a 2" lift. We use the 2" on Suzuki's and 1 1/2 to 1 3/4" lifts on Daihatsu's. The only thing we do after the install is adjust the steering rods towards the inside. The steering rods have two locking nuts on each end, break them and turn the whole rod to bring the tire back to true. We drive it around a little bit check it, make adjustments and lock the nuts. I dont have any ideal how many trucks we have done over the yrs. but not once have I had a call back on the 1 1/2 or 2" lift. But then again my average age buyer is 45 or older and most are farmers/ranchers. Those guys most likely will be a little easier on a truck then a 25 yr. old.
Everything needs to be adjusted now...op:
Lobe and tab are in the above configuration to give maximum throw. With a 1.75" lift, I needed to dial the throw down to 75%, it was actually TOO much, so.. you got her wrong some how, but the pic is the best I can do for you. You'll just have to mess with her to figure it out...
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