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Beach Driving?

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by Meansealvel, Sep 13, 2013.

  1. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Would you guys suggest buying the whole rebuild kit plus pistons now? or wait until I tear down the motor to see what I need?

    Sounds to me like I do in fact have a hemi engine, the guys at G&R told me if the spark plugs go through the valve cover then its a hemi. If they go between the cover and exhaust manifold it is not a hemi. By the looks of it to me its a hemi.
     
  2. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    The only thing you know you'll need right now is gaskets so I would wait and check it out first. If it didn't heat up there's a good chance the pistons are fine.
     
  3. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    I guess I just don't want to lose any savings I might get by buying the whole kit as opposed to getting the gaskets only to find out I also need the rest of it..... but then again if all I need is the gaskets ill be saving a lot more. Either way thanks Jim!!
     
  4. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    I still think valve guides/ seals are all ya really need.........and maybe head gasket and set of rings for the pistons..........just hone the cylinders and refresh the engine a bit.
     
  5. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    At what point does it make sense to just bite the bullet and do it all since everything is apart? I mean my mechanic is saying he should be able to do the valve seals without pulling the engine. If I get piston rings for example does that mean ill have to tear down the whole engine in order to install them? Same goes for the head gasket... And if I do in fact have to tear the whole thing apart to do the rings or head gasket then would it at that point make sense to just use the whole kit, or whatever part of it that can be?

    Here is a link to the whole rebuild kit
    And this is the link to just the gasket kit

    Or should I just plan to piece meal it, in other words buy jus the valve cover gasket and valve seals and head gasket or whatever and see what happens. I just wanna make sure once its done I wont have to do it again! But I also don't want to do an entire rebuild if its not necessary.

    Thanks guys!
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014
  6. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    So im leaning toward dropping the whole engine and getting into it. I guess my reason being is I don't want to be left wondering what kind of damage was done by that sand... I figure if it costs me a few hundred extra to have the engine opened up then I think it will be worth it. Got the gasket kit today, and if it turns out I have to bore/surface the engine then ill have to go ahead and get the other engine rebuild stuff. Otherwsie supposedly my lift kit is on its way and I ordered wheels and tires the other day, so the goodies whould be on the way!!
     
  7. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Well the engine has been opened up and idk what to say, doesn't look good to me but my mechanic says he doesn't see any real scoring on the valve walls or whatever.... There was sand just under at least one of the the valve seals and there is a tiny bit of play on the valve stem, in other words valve stem moves slight back and forth! The next step is to hopefully drop the oil pan and try to get one of the cylinders out to try and take some measurements and figure it out?? Im not entirely sure whats next to be honest. Either way its not looking great but we'lll see what happens next. I do at least have the wheels and tires ready to go but unfortunately i still dont have my lift kit!!! What a fiasco! So frustrated!
     
  8. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Actually. ............. doesnt sound too bad to me. I thought ya had a bit of sand in the valve seal. If there isnt a ridge in the cylinder walls I would just hone them and put new rings and crank bearings in. Just because you will already be there. You may end up being surprised what ya find in the oil pan. But dont let it scare ya too much, its only money.................... ;)
     
  9. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    There may in fact be sand in the valve seal, i wasnt very clear about what i was looking at when he showed me. He was showing me the bottom of the head i guess.... where the valve under the spark plug meets the block. Anyway i could see sand under the little black piece of rubber/plastic on one of the valves but he wasnt able to turn the shaft to get the others to open so theres a good chance they all have sand in them. Either way what exactly do you mean by "honing"? Im all for doing whatever i should while the engine is open like it is, ive already ordered a new timing belt, is there anything else i should replace while im in there?
     
  10. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    Honing is simply dressing/cleaning up the cylinders and reusing your old pistons but installing new rings.
    Unlike boring a cylinder which would make the cylinders bigger and installing a over sized piston/over sized rings.
    Your mech. can measure the current cylinders/pistons and can tell you weather they need to be honed or bored.
    I would install a new water pump as well.
     
  11. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Got it.... i suppose that's kind of what my mech was saying, he's planning to try and drop the oil pan so he take some measurements and verify weather or not there is a bigger problem or not. Like i said when he wiggled the intake valve there was a little movement so thats why he was a little nervous but he said he doesnt know what the tolerance should be. Either way thanks Trax, is it possible to replace the rings without dropping the engine?
     
  12. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Yup.......what trax said hahaha.......... I think it would be MUCH faster and easier to drop the motor bud. I think you could pull the oil pan easily enough with the engine still bolted up, but............. doing all the work under the truck would just suck. If the cylinders need bored or honed the motor would have to come out any way.

    As long as the cylinders dont have a groove or deep scratches in them, honing them would be fine and let you have more rebuilability later. You can only remove so much from them before they arent going to work and you HAVE to get another block. Besides......... if ya drop the motor and tranny you can clean and lube all the linkage and bushings on the tranny as well as check your clutch. Way easy to replace the clutch before you put everything back in the truck.
    Its only money right?!?!?!?!!!!!!! Hahahaha
     
  13. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Trucks back on the road! Hiiiiija! But its running kinda crappy :( WTFO! So here's what was done... to my knowledge!

    Basically the engine was torn down but never removed from the truck. As i understand it my mechanic was able to inspect the cylinders/walls and said he didn't see any scoring or anything like that so we went ahead and did the rings and used whatever gaskets were needed, installed the valve stem seals new water pump and tentioner and timing belt and put the new alternator in. Good news is its not smoking anymore but its just not running great. The best way i can explain it is it runs "lumpy"... It starts a hair slow and it just doesn't idle smoothly, not up and down as much as it drops down like its almost going to stall but just for a second, and will do that a few times then come back up a little run ok for a few and then do it again. Its very inconsistent. Aaaand it actually stalled a few times today!! When i pulled into my driveway it just died so i drove it around a for a while and it did it a few more times; but only at slow to stopping speed.

    Needless to say im not happy about it! I was really happy to have her back but now im kind of freaking out about the quality of work! Does any of this sound serious? Im afraid that maybe there was some scoring that wasn't noticed but i feel like it should be smoking a little if that were the case. Maybe the timing is slightly off?? Or could it be the carb still? Carb was rebuilt before engine was torn down but maybe it wasn't tuned properly?

    Besides that ive got a new lift kit on the way! I ended up giving up on the 4" i had been waiting on for the past 5 months!!!!! And i went with the OEM style 2" kit that best used tractors sells. Im hoping between that plus the bigger wheels tires and a snorkel ill be ready for the beach again!!
     
  14. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    My first guess would be the carb. with it trying to stall then pick back up.
    Long time ago we used rebuild carbs. with about a 50-50 chance of them working 100%. They were always better but not like we wanted them to be.
    Finally gave up and started sending them off and having someone that does it day in and day out rebuilding them. There are so many parts/passages in them and unless you have a chemical bath system its hard to get everything absolutely clean. It aint cheap 360.00 a pop for a rebuilt here and if you want a rebuilt from a manufacture(japan) by the time you pay shipping its about the same price.
    You might try a 100% sea foam through the fuel line from fuel tank, through fuel pump making sure carb. is completely full and let it sit over night. If it helps keep using the sea foan until it cleans up.
    Then again it could be adjustments on carb.
    But these carbs. can be a PITA sometimes.
    Assuming everything was right with the engine rebuild.
    If you google Hite Parts Exchange you can get their info. and get a price on rebuilding the carb.
    Ive sent several to them and they do a great job. They do a 100% tear down and it will be like new.
     
  15. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Supposedly the carb was rebuilt professionally, my mechanic said the guy who did it used a "jet washer" or something like that and did the chemical bath as well... but there is still a chance thats the issue because it was rebuilt before the engine was torn down so i could never say weather it was the carb or engine causing it to run the way it was. However i just noticed today it seems to run pretty well after its been sitting for a while. Today after work when i fired her up she seemed to run pretty smooth but by the time i got home she was stalling and sputtering like it was when i first noticed it. Soooooo if its not the carb any ideas on what might have been done incorrectly when the engine was rebuilt???? Thanks Guys! Especially Trax and Moose! You guys rock!
     
  16. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Oh and i got my lift kit today! Just a few questions, is it a bad idea to use the shakles that they sent me? The shakles are just those metal strips with holes in em, the cheap type i think... And how do i deal with the springs? I dont have the tool i need to install them myself so would it make sense to just bring them to my mechanic have him put them in and then deal with the lift on my own?? Pretty excited to get the lift on there! I just hope i can get her running right again otherwise im going to have a lifted pile of metal hahah! Not funny!
     
  17. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    Going out on a limb as I don't know if your truck has one but is there a bypass that pulls air from the exhaust manifold to keep the carb from icing open and causing the carb to get too hot causing a vapor lock type deal. Like I said. I don't know.
     
  18. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Welcome to the discussion pal! Out on a limb or not!
     
  19. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    Standard 2" lift I'd do it at the house. Pretty simple. Leave the springs be. Yes, I would instal the new shackles, they will level the truck out. You will also have to loosen up the tie rods on front and turn them in 1/4" + -. If not the front wheels will be toed in a little bit after installing lift.
    So if the carb was rebuilt and the truck sat for a month or two you will have some build up in passages in carb. It could be that. Again do the 100% sea foam through the whole fuel system(tank to carb.).
    Make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks.
     
  20. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    I would say it sat for 2 or 3 weeks i guess, but not any more than that! Vacuum leak is a good one to check, what is it that i need to spray around the lines to check for leak? Soo do i run the sea foam into the engine?? Or disconnect carb then run fuel pump?? And about how long should i let sea foam sit? I wish i had a gallon of it right now i would get out there!
     

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