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Beach Driving?

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by Meansealvel, Sep 13, 2013.

  1. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Holy cow man........... after reading all this and catching up.......... I went and checked my air filter. We drive on the beach quite a bit as well as drive in more nasty horrid places. Was dirty of course but nothing as bad as your describing, thank God!!! Maybe all those chickens I've been killing have been paying off and doing their job hahaha.
    Are you absolutely positive that the smoke is WHITE? Because what your describing is telling me that the smoke should be blue. If it's only doing it at high revs it can be tough to tell. I'd almost bet money that a bit of that sand that got in your carb ate up a valve seal and at hi revs your pulling oil in and burning it.
    When you checked your antifreeze level........did you open the rad or just check the overflow tank? Or both?
    Compression check is easy. Any shop should be able to do it.
    I would also ask for a leak down test. That will tell you if your rings are holding up as well as valve seals and head gasket. Leak down test will pressure up the chosen cylinder, then see how long it takes for the pressure to bleed off. With the radiator (rad) cap off.......... that will tell if the head gasket is bad. Add air to cylinder and watch for bubbles in the rad. I would do all these tests with the engine cold, then again warmed up to running temp.
    Like Trax said.........
    Black smoke is fuel
    Blue smoke is oil
    White smoke is water, break fluid, transmission fluid.
    Can only burn tranny fluid if the rig has an automatic not manual and can only burn break fluid if the rig has a vacuum booster for the breaks. But...... if you ever have a rig that's burning break fluid.............. the motor isn't long for life and will not be rebuildable.
     
  2. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    For starters Moose.... Your frikin awesome! Thats wicked funny you went and looked in you air filter, do you have a snorkel? I have no idea how i got sand past my filter, i mean i can see how it got to the filter but the filter is well sealed on both sides and i looked at every other area on the air intake to see where else it may have come from, still not sure what happened. Tell me though did you find much sand under the filter? Because when i saw how much sand the intake had sucked up and the filter stopped i was really surprised, maybe your 3 foot lift kit helps :)

    As for your advice/questions.... I am NOT absolutely positive the smoke is white, it looks white to me but ive been checking the coolant level and it hasnt dropeed, and yes ive checked the reservoir and the tank, both are at the right height, the reservoir may even be a tad high. I tend to agree with you, i have a feeling its oil, about how much would it burn though? I mean would i be going through much in a day? I only have driven to and from work a few times. But I checked it today a few times and it doesnt look like its getting any lower.... it has to be oil though coolant definitely hasn't budged. Is there anything else it could be? You say gas burns black? I was half hoping that perhaps the carb wasn't tuned correctly and maybe its pushing too much through? Im just wishful thinking though....

    Either way im bringing it to a shop tomorrow, ill ask them to do the compression and leak down test, whats the next step from there though? I mean if it is a gasket is it worth fixing or is it more of a hassle then its worth, and is there any chance theres going to be another issue with the engine after that? Or if its a valve seal whats the deal? Again thanks so much buddy i cant tell you how much i appreciate the words

     
  3. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    For what its worth to anyone, turns out its burning oil, been watching coolant and oil and the oil has dropped. Going to have er checked out this week, and possible try and do a rebuild?? Any thoughts? Suggestions? My mechanic is going to do the leak down test moose so hopefully we'll have a good idea of what im up against. Anyone have any idea how long it should take?? Wish me luck
     
  4. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Shop should be able to do all the tests in a couple hours. Easy peasy. I figured it was oil............ I don't have a snorkle. I have the stock air box as well as the stock filter. I keep threatening to put a snorkle on but haven't needed one yet. Even with water up to my knees inside the cab. I don't plan on going deeper then that!!! Our water is too cold to let it touch my crotch! !!!! I did have a bit of sand........ but only a teaspoon or so in the filter. I'm thinking that if your air box was full of sand, it may have stacked up tight enough to push threw between the filter and the seal by the carb. I've had that happen in my mud truck. Sucks........ I'm willing to bet that you probably have a valve seal that's leaking, cracked, or has a piece of sand stuck in it. That would be the cheapest fix.
    As for if it has a bad head gasket........... if it were mine........... I'd do a rebuild. Not just a head gasket. But I'm kind of a pain in the rear about things. If I have to yank the engine out of something to do a head gasket............. I can't allow myself to put the engine back without going threw it. Why pull it apart in a couple years to rebuild it any way, or worse yet...... put the new head gasket in and drive it for a week and find out you have a rod knocking or busted a piston skirt and have to do it any way. I've actually started collecting the parts to rebuild my engine. Easier on the pocket book if I buy a part or two here and a part or two there. Rebuilds are easy. Just take your time and make sure you oil the crap out of everything as your putting it together
     
  5. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    So if i do the whole rebuild how long would you expect it to take a shop?? I would much rather have someone who has a clue do it but if its going to be wayyyy too expensive that way then i might consider doing it myself.
     
  6. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

  7. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    Not unless you have someone that knows engines that can help you rebuild it, would I do it myself. There's a lot to it, inspecting head, valves, mic cylinders, pistons ect. Having head resurfaced, boring cylinders if needed. Inspecting bottom end ect.
    There's always the fat chance you just need a valve job if everything else looks good.
    The right mech. with specs, in house machine shop, with all the parts sitting there, a complete rebuild engine job, two days.
     
  8. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Well in that case im definitely not doing it! That already sounds like a nightmare, I can tell you one thing for sure, I would probably be kicked off this forum half way through the job from all the dumb ass questions and confusion :) That being said sounds like its going to be pretty expensive! .... Brutality! Is there any way it might be cheaper to look for a new engine???

     
  9. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    I would call Mini Brutes, GR Imports,
    Magic Valley Mini Trks, Cajun Mini Trks
    and get prices.
    There will be a plate under the seat that will have
    Your engine info. You'll need the Plate info.
     
  10. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    I agree with Trax. ......... finding a replacement engine would be the way to go. Then use your old one as a project. Learn how to build it. I have engine blocks cleaned, bored and prepped for me at a local shop. They shave the heads and grind the valves. Depending on the engine and never of cylinders it costs me anywhere from 2 or 3 hundred up to 800 or 1200. Like I said......depends on the engine. Be fun to build a bad ass motor for the old mini truck wouldn't it????????? Hahaha
     
  11. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    And what would you guys suppose that might cost?
     
  12. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    So unfortunately my mechanic was unable to do the "leak down" test.... He said his "special tool" wouldn't fit into where the plugs go?? He was able to do the compression test and said it was pretty normal, around 130 to 150 but also said there was some darkness on the plugs and that it is burning oil but not a lot and that the compression test doesnt really tell us much.

    Here is where it gets a little complicated... I spoke to G&R and they have a used engine for $1450 and a rebuilt for $2000 (thats with the core charge) plus half the cost of shipping my old engine back.

    My mechanic says he really wants to help me rebuild the existing engine and keep the price as low as possible and thinks he should be able to remove it and reinstall the rebuilt one for around $600-$800 and the machine shop wants $200-$300 for re-boring and resurfacing, so that roughly $800 to $1100 before parts/shipping. I havent looked around much but the only engine rebuild kit ive seen is around $1000 and then $225 for the pistons (which my mechanic says is really expensive), so basically its all going to cost just about the same, unless im able to find a cheaper rebuild kit.

    So thats what i got so far, still waiting to hear back about some other engines but i assume G&R is pretty competitive. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to look for a cheaper rebuild kit?? And do you guys think theres any difference in having my engine rebuilt here versus buying a rebuilt engine? Is there anything strange that would make it harder for an ordinary mechanic to fix? I guess one small advantage of doing it here would be being able to play a small role in helping, so i could learn more about the engine in general. EIther way here in lies my decision, lemmme know what you guys think?

    What would you do???

    Thanks again!
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2014
  13. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Just going by cost at this point. ....... sounds like a rebuild from G&R would be the most cost effective option.
     
  14. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    By all means if your mech. rebuilds other motors he can rebuild this one. Same process just smaller. Yes, you could be part of that process if he'll let you. You get to know the engine hands on, see where everything goes, hooks up ect. and later trouble shooting would come fairly easy.
    For the most part the prices are pretty close among the parts dealers these days. I would call all the above mentioned suppliers compare prices and check ebay as well. Ebay has saved me $$ in the past.
    There are a few parts dealers that will try and hose you on cost, youll see who they are when you call them and compare prices. Some of those get their parts from GR and mark them up. Then the possibility is to get a hold of Yokahoma Motors in Japan and order then direct. Parts are cheaper but shipping is more.
    But remember the plate info. under seat is a must to make sure you get the right parts.
    Then again the 1450.00 used engine from GR sounds pretty easy as long as they can give you compression test on that used engine
    and those numbers look good?
    Which ever way you go rebuild your motor or used motor make sure you install new water pump and timing belt.
     
  15. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    Ya know i think im going to go with a rebuild, like you said trax learning the motor will be really helpful in the long run and yes my mechanic already said if i want to make this a weekend project we could jam on it for a few weekends and save me some money, furthermore whatever site i had priced that kit from was pretty steep and ive since found a kit for half the price. So i think i can get the price well below what a rebuilt from G&R would be. Im a little apprehensive of buying a used motor good compression or not, and while im a tad nervous to have my mechanic rebuild it he knows engines thats for sure and hes def. rebuilt a number of them. At the end of the day i guess i would prefer to put my trust in him since he seems so willing to help me out of the situation im in and hope for the best, if nothing else ill learn something :) Anyways few questions....

    Can you guys tell me how to figure out if my engine is a hemi or not?

    And does anyone by chance know if my pistons are bigger than 2.5"? Machine shop needs to know

    Until next time my friends!
     
  16. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    No hemi in your mini and dont know for sure but I would think pistons are right in the 2.5" OD range. Dont have one in my pocket so cant tell you exactly.
    Call GR and ask them what the OD is.
    Hemi engines are high out - put hp engines. The top of piston travel in a Hemi is more dome shape instead of more flat like most regular motors. Back in the late 50's or 60's someone discovered that adding the dome would make more compression which in turn makes more hp.
     
  17. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

  18. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    I suppose its for ht guys converting there engines? Sounds like ill be needing to call G&R either way
     
  19. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    I think youll be extremely happy if you rebuild your engine. The pride and knowledge are priceless. Did you ever get a compression test done? Id be willing to bet that your valve seals are bad unless your experiencing power loss
     
  20. Meansealvel

    Meansealvel Member

    I agree, i think rebuilding with my mechanic will be a really good learning experience. Plus im planning to do the lift at the same time that i do the rebuild so ill be really happy once all is said and done. I did have a compression test done, i guess it was round 130 to 150 but they were unable to do the leak down test. I haven't experienced much loss in power, but its still smoking a good amount, sometimes much worse than others. Still need to find the rebuild kit, and im STILL waiting for the lift kit too so i have some work to do.
     

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