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Anyone done a spring-over?

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by JRinTX, Sep 24, 2007.

  1. JRinTX

    JRinTX Moderator

    Has anyone done a spring over on the rear of a Suzuki? It looks like I can flip the axle to the bottom of the springs, using a new 2" wide spring perch. The backing plates can be swapped to opposite sides in order to keep the shock mounting stud in the right place and the factory length shocks will work. This should gain about 3 1/2" of height without the long shackles.

    Just wondering if anyone has done this, and maybe I am missing something???

  2. Titan Mini Trucks

    Titan Mini Trucks New Member

    No, but have studied it a little. I don't think it would be that hard to do. I think that or the add-a-leaf are the best ways to do it. But the extended shackles are much quicker and easier. Cross Roads makes a nice kit. I have not tried one of his yet, but they look well engineered.

  3. Big Country

    Big Country New Member

    Works like a charm. You will need to modify the emergency brake brakets to maintain proper adjustment.
  4. Banzai

    Banzai New Member

    The add-a-leaf type lift kits are CRAP. They make the spring rate way too high. In other words, they basically remove all your suspension travel.
    This winter when I get time I am going to flip the rear axle, for the moment, I am going to pull the add-a-leaf out and see how far I can throw it, then make a set of longer shackles.

    If you want your truck to ride decent, get longer shackles or flip the rear axle. If you want the cheap and easy way out, get one of the add-a-leaf kits.

    I ordered my kit from Cross Roads, and I can't say that I had a 'good' shopping expirence with them, but on the same note, I will not trash that company on a public forum.
  5. JRinTX

    JRinTX Moderator


    I finished the spring-over lift on the rear of my Suzuki this weekend. I used 2" wide spring perches for a 2 3/8" dia trailer axle (standard 2" pipe diameter). You can swap the u-bolt mounting plates from side to side and the shock mounts will work like original. You also have to re-mount the parking brake brackets and the brake line mounting bracket (or lengthen the brake hose). I am making some new brackets for the parking brake assembly to bolt under the original brackets. Also, the rear drive shaft needs to be lengthened about an inch, I think this can be done with a spacer.
    It works great! The truck rides just like before, same spring rate, it just sits 3 1/2" higher. Like you, I did not like the add-a-leafs because they make the springs so stiff. The truck is not heavy enough to use that high of a spring rate.
    I have been documenting my lift with pictures and drawings. Both the front and rear. I have lowered the front differential to maintain the correct geometery of the front driveline with 3 1/2" spacers above the struts. There are several items that have to been done if you want to lift the truck that right way and maintain the original engineering that went into its design. I hope to write an article on what I learn and how to go about lifting a Suzuki.
    muddy moose likes this.
  6. Banzai

    Banzai New Member

    Thanks or the info. Over the weekend I decided to do longer shackles. In fact, I just got back from town with the metal to make them. I am heading out to the shop to work on it right now!
  7. Banzai

    Banzai New Member

    I made the long shackles this afternoon, had to make another run to town to get the right bolts.
    Total project time not counting the extra trip was less than 2 hours. And that is including taking off the add-a-leaf.
    I used quarter inch thick mild steel, 2 1/2 inch wide. The shackles are about 9 inches long, 7 1/8 inches between bolt centers. The holes are half inch. I used grade eight bolts, 4 inches long.
    At least on my 97 Suzuki, it works. Now that I have done it, if I had to do it again, i'd make them about 6 3/4 inches between centers.
    I went out for a test drive, and it rides much much better with the long shackles vice the add-a-leaves.
    If anyone has questions about making your own shackles, just ask. :)
  8. Add a leaf????

    I added a spring lift to the back of my personal ride[91 Daihatsu Jumbo] but I also put new gas shocks on back.So far this summer I have 700 miles on this truck an it rides and drives much better than the other 40 trucks I set-up this year.Shocks are the key and 25" all-trails also soften the ride on my truck.I do not do anything cheap but this old silverback will always find the easy way around any problem.I posted my truck on the picture gallery.This is what is so great about this site,sssssmmooooth flow of ideas.

  9. Titan Mini Trucks

    Titan Mini Trucks New Member

    I've had to build the lift kits for the trucks I've lifted so far because vendors couldn't ship timely or the lifts didn't fit when they came in. I have just been adding 3" to the bolt center length and my bolts are 1/2" x 4", too.

    Since persons who have the add-a-leaf don't like the ride, has anyone had springs built or rearched? The longer shackles are easier and do ride better, but it does affect the geometry just like spacing the struts on the front end.

  10. Banzai

    Banzai New Member

    Jeff - I would imagine that the change to the geometry isn't that severe in the rear with the long shackles. the front, however I am still fussing with trying to get it aligned right.

    Steve - The vendor that I got my lift kit from didn't have the right shocks, and couldn't figure it out. He also said that it would ride fine with the extra leaf in the back. He also couldn't send me the right lug nuts, much less the right rims and tires on the first try. Oh well.
    I am happy with the way my long shackles are working out. The ride is much smoother.
  11. Sowsticker

    Sowsticker New Member

    Can someone please tell me what they have done to lift the front of their Suzuki. I have a 1995 model and have tried several different lengths of spacers. Unless you use 2" or less spacers the front end gets totally out of whack. I made three inch spacers but the tires are towed way out, not enough adjustment on the tie rods ends, they would have to be cut. I have tried different angels on the spacers and different offsets too.The angle on the CV joints is severe. The right way to do it would be to lower the front differential assembly but then the front driveshaft would rub on the cross member. Any suggestions?
  12. JRinTX

    JRinTX Moderator


    You are right, the only way to lift a truck correctly, is to lower the front differential and swing arms. I have done this type of lift on my 1992 Suzuki. I sold a 1995 model, it was a little different under the front but it is basically the same design. I built 3 1/2" spacers for my struts (I used 3 1/2 because the spring-over in the rear nets about 3 1/2"). The spacers are two pieces that have a bolted on, slotted top plate. This allows for adjustment on your camber. I have a nominal offset of about 1/2" between the top and bottom flange.

    Then I built a 2" spacer to go under the crossmember that supports the front differential and lower swing arms. This results in only a 1 1/2" difference in the orginal relationship between the hub centers and the differential. This only changes the angle of the CV axles by a few degrees.

    I also built longer tension bars that are bent at an angle to replace the stock ones. These are the bars that connect to the front frame via rubber bushings and tie to the lower swing arms. The crossmember also has to be lowered about an inch to clear the front driveshaft, or it can be modified with more clearance. On my 1992 I had to add spacers to the motor mounts when I lowered this crossmember, I am not sure about a 1995.

    I have taken pictures and documented all my modifications with drawings. I intend to write an article about this method of building a lift kit. It is a little more complicated than just prying in some spacers on top of the struts, but the suspension components will last! Take a look at the way lift kits are designed for full size, independent front suspension 4wd trucks. There are several parts that space the entire suspension away from the frame, its not cheap and easy.

    It is evident that the strut spacers alone are not working on these trucks. Look at how many CV joints and front diffs are being torn up. A true, full suspension lift is the way to go, the only problem is that it takes a few custom parts depending on the make and model of the truck.

    Hope this makes sense and helps a little. Ask questions and I will try to help!
    muddy moose likes this.
  13. Sowsticker

    Sowsticker New Member

    Thanks JR, I think for now I'm just gonna put some 23x8x12 tires on it and wait until after hunting season to do it right. I'll be waiting for your article on how to do it right. I had already made 2" spacers to lower the front diff assembly when I discovered the driveshaft clearence problem. I also saw that you would need some type of offset connection made for the steering linkage from the rack and pinion. Thanks for the help.
  14. JRinTX

    JRinTX Moderator


    I do recall that the 1995 Suzuki's steering arm was mounted differently than the 1992. It is mounted to the front crossmember on your truck, if I remember correctly. On my 1992 it is not, so it was not lowered when I put the spacers under the front crossmember. The tie-rods are at a greater angle, and I had to screw the rod ends out to re-align, but they do not seem to be causing a problem.

    When you start working on yours, maybe you can get some pictures and sketches and I will include in the "how-to" article. I will be glad to help you with any info that I have gained.

    Also, the spring-over on the rear is great. The truck is much more stable side to side without the long shackles and it still rides like original. But, just like the front there are a few details to make it right. For instance, the parking park mounts have to be moved.
  15. Sowsticker

    Sowsticker New Member

    Thanks again James, I'll try and document whatever I decide to do. I had already done the rear spring over lift and luckily didn't weld the spring perches in place when I discovered how difficult the front end was gonna be. I had done a spring over lift on a Samurai I had and the mini truck was very similar to that. I changed it all back after getting aggravated with the front. What a waste of time but at least I know what it takes and already have the longer brake lines when I get ready.
  16. JRinTX

    JRinTX Moderator

    Where did you get the longer brake lines? Will hoses for a Samuri fit? I would like to have longer brake hose for the front and rear. I have moved the mounting location of the union of the line to hose in order to get more length.

    Thanks again!
  17. Sowsticker

    Sowsticker New Member

    Hey James, the Samurai brake lines will fit but they are about the same length. I took the mini trucks front and rear lines to a local wrecking yard and told them what I needed. They took lines off of the rear of a Nissan 300Z. they are about four inches longer.
  18. okeitrucker

    okeitrucker Member


    What brand and length of shocks are you using? Have you tried a few different kinds, or just the ones on your Daihatsu? Do you have a 3" lift, and any problems at all with the front? Thanks.

  19. o8k

    o8k Member

    Is anyone else disapointed there are not pictures in this thread?
  20. slimbad

    slimbad Member


    Yeah I was, but that was over two years ago (check thread date) - I finally got tired of waiting:pop:. Most of the members on this thread haven't posted in over a year and a half.........later, slim

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