Hello. I posted this also in the "desperately need tuning help" thread but I thought maybe it should also be stand alone for easy access. I am new at the whole Forum thing so...... Okay here we go. I just want to say that the following information is just what I have gathered from other peoples threads (main Spanner! lol). I am not trying to take credit for other peoples work. I am hoping to just compile everything I have been reading over the last couple months. All pictures but one are of my own Carb and I have attached numbers to the screws, which I believe match up with descriptions and missing photos previously in the thread. As mentioned may times, in multiple threads, CARB tuning will only be easy/helpful if you have no vacuum leaks, correct routing and everything else correct. You can't tune a CARB to fix other problems! Also I am going to assume that your Choke is set up to begin with. You can find a lot of good information in the thread "Choke-idle is too high". There is no sense repeating that. However I will identify the screws. Carburetor adjustment screws Screw #1 - Idle-up Actuator Adjustment (This is for starting/restarting purposes. It holds the throttle above base idle. Like putting your foot on the pedal when starting the engine. As soon as the engine starts the actuator should retract and remove itself from the system until the engine stops.) Screw #2 - Accessory Idle Adjustment (This increases the engine RPM for when there is extra load on the engine aka Blower motor, Headlights, Rad Fan, Hydraulic Dump, etc. There is a control relay that operates a solenoid valve and uses Vacuum directly from the intake manifold to operate the actuator when the previous items are in use. Otherwise it is out of the picture on standby) Screw #3 - Base Idle (Rather simple. It adjusts the throttle to maintain the engines base idle approx 950 RPM) Screw #4 - Choke plate adjustment ( I borrowed this picture. It is directly above the thermal pusher pin on the side of the CARB. It adjusts the Choke plate position and thermal pusher pin is responsible for removing the Choke when the engine warms up) Screw #5 - Choke Idle (Again rather simple. This screw adjusts the RPM the engine will run at when the engine is in it's warming up phase. From what I have read approx 2000-2500 RPM. It allows the engine to warm up faster.) Screw # 6 - CO2 Fine Adjustment (Some call this the CO2 Fine adjustment as the manual describes adjusting is with a CO2 monitor in the tail pipe. Some call it the Fuel/Air mixture screw. Either way my understanding is that it doesn't accomplish much and I have yet to play with mine.) Carburetor Adjustment With engine cold the Choke plate should be 100% closed (adjusted by screw #4) Start the engine and the Choke plate should open to 85% via the Choke actuator. The Idle-up actuator should also retract. The engine is now warming up and the Choke RPM can be adjusted using Screw #5. At this point Screws #1,2,3 should be off their seats. Allow the engine to completely WARM up and the choke to remove its self from the system. Check that the other screws are still off their seats. If not make sure the actuators are in the proper position and back them off. Now the engine in running using Screw #3 base idle. If staring from scratch you may need to hold the throttle, up to this point, to keep engine running as base idle had not been set. If you are working from a Carb already in use then you adjust this screw to obtain the Base RPM of Approx 950 RPM (Without any lights, Rad fan, blower motor, etc on). I don't have a TACH yet so I use a portable hand held one pushed against the crankshaft. Shut off the engine and restart and confirm the engine is at base idle. The engine has now warmed up in the Choke phase and is running at it's base idle. Now to adjust the idle-up actuator. Adjust the screw #1 so that it is almost in contact with the seat. When the engine is turned off it will contact the seat and throttle up the engine. This is responsible for the momentary higher RPM when you initially start a previously warmed up engine. I found I needed to make a couple small adjustments to this after cycling the engine a couple times to find the sweet spot. I do not have an actual number for this but it would be around 1500-2000 RPM give or take. Finally we come to the Accessory Idle adjustment screw #2. With the engine running and warmed up and the previous steps complete make sure no accessories are on, the actuator is not retracted and engine is at base idle. Now turn you lights or blower motor on full and the actuator should retract to open the throttle. Now adjust screw #2 toward the seat and keep adjusting until you start to raise the engine RPM. This should be set at approx 1500 RPM. Now turn all the loads off and the RPM should drop to base idle. Turn them back on and RPM should increase. Congrats! Your Carb should function as is should. I also found a lot of good info in the thread - 93suzuki Carburetor (carefull there are two) Hopefully this clears it up for some of you. I felt it was my time to help after months of lurking and reading!lol I am not an expert just very obsessive in the stuff i am interested in.