My hijet starts up. Runs fine for a half hour or so, then looses power. Very little response when hitting the gass. Putts along at low speed and eats gas like crazy. Also only holds 2 Galons. If I park it for a while I need to jump start it, but after that it runs fine and eventually looses power all over again. I searched the forums already and nothing seems to match my problem. This seems like a specific thing that someone on here might just know what the issue is. Been effing with it for a month. New fuel filter. Help?
Definitely check all the filters. Also check the coil resistance when it is warm. You could also have floaters in the fuel tank, which are coming up an clogging the sock filter as the vehicle runs, and then falling off when it shuts off. Or, it could be a bad vapor canister. My first recommendation is to go to the GR Imports page, and follow their trouble shooting guide.
Albert, I totally agree with what Jigs is saying. As I think about this I'm wondering about the return line to the tank, the venting, and possible clogged issues! Mine, being the same year had several issues, mainly due to sitting to long, and being abused, and not properly maintained leading up to sitting. Not knowing the history of your unit, makes it a little harder to guess at, but I'm sure we can get there along the way! Mine seemed to have more than one specific problem, like I was saying, so I addressed all at one time! On the bottom of your tank you have a drain plug. Good place to start. I'm not sure that you checked the forum thoroughly, because I've gone into detail on more than one occasion how I addressed my issues! Which as I stated were pretty frustrating! Limestone
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll doublecheck the forums (more like quadruplechjeck at this point), and in the mean time head off in these directions. Updates to follow.
Albert, I wish that there was an easy solution, but I'm not so sure that there is at this point! Good Luck, and keep us posted! Limestone
To run the engine needs spark at the plugs, and fuel in the correct air to fuel ratio. On our older rigs, there can be a multitude of things which singly or in combinations can keep your rig from running right. Start with simple things, and work your way forward. You said that you had checked the spark. So, start looking at the fuel delivery system.
Jigs is correct, start with the simple stuff. I'm not trying to lead you astray, but I think your getting too much fuel, and it's not cycling, and returning to the tank, causing fuel flooding issues, hence acting like loss of power, due to too much fuel! I have a hunch if you follow due process and clean things up, you'll be farther ahead! Limestone
Setting the fuel consumption aside for now. I'm just trying to get it to start and run. The alternator wasn't charging the battery. Car was dying as I drove to work at 3am, ran better without the lights. Changed out the alternator for one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZTQ75BD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now I'm dealing with extra prong issues, going from two to the three prong coupling that connects the new alternator. The third prong goes to the battery to sense the charge right? So I ran a wire over to that and now it won't start. New battery is fine. Going to check the ground in a few minutes. It's 6 degrees out wheeeee!
The alternator output goes to a lug on the starter, and then on to the battery. So, the higher amperage can’t burn up the starter. But, the factory wire sized for the 30 or 35-Amp stock alternator may have burned up between the starter and the battery. When I upgrade my alternator to 90-Amps, I added a second 6-gauge wire in parallel to the stock wiring, which I ran directly to the battery. That way I didn’t have to deal with rewiring at the starter, and could run directly with a few wire ties and anchor plates. Do you have power to the dash/headlights? There is a fuse for the engine/starter. And I think on your truck two fuseable links under the left seat, kind of a the rear of the opening. I think one goes to the dash/lights, and he other goes to the starter solenoid, and engine.
Replaced the wire when I rewired it for the three prong denso plug. I had no power to the dash. I checked the fuse under the seat and lo and behold! Now it runs like a champ. Well it's still only getting 15 mpg but that's a battle for another day.
Good that you found it. Not Daihatsu specific, but usually a alternator needs the battery light in the dash cluster -aka idiot light- as exciter light, otherwise the alternator will not start to generate power. Generally, three wires are connected to an alternator, including the exciter wire. The exciter, which is a low-voltage generator that transmits DC power, sends electric current directly to the alternator. If the exciter wire is disconnected or not working properly, it will not transmit voltage to the alternator, and as a result, the alternator will not generate enough power to operate accessories. Initially, alternator failure may not cause any symptoms since a vehicle’s battery has some reserve power, but eventually, the reserves are depleted and accessories like the radio and air conditioning will stop working. Exceptions: The alternators on most modern vehicles have internal voltage regulators; therefore, they don’t need an exciter wire to function properly. I had such a problem on my 1989 BMW, the battery light bulb in the cluster was bad and voltage got smaller and smaller till the battery was dead. Here a good schematic drawing https://www.bmwcca.org/roundel/troubleshooting-alternator-warning-light
Welp. It's doing the same thing. I think it's running out of gas. I drive 30 miles to work in the morning, some of that is highway. It's 4th gear the whole way. Do these guys chugg through fuel on the highway? I go through two gallons in 30 miles.
I’m getting around 16 to 20-mpg running around town, mostly in third gear, with the plow and about 300-lbs of ballast in the bed. Sounds like you are running rich. Mine was doing similar stuff until I figured out that the vapor canister was clogged, and preventing the fuel from going back to the tank from the pressure regulator in the fuel pump. I added an electric pump and back at the tank, and bypassed the the stock pump. With the regulator set for 2-psi, all the sooty plugs, low fuel economy, and exhaust smelling like raw unburned gas went away.
I seem to be averaging 26-28 MPG for my first 4 tanks of gas. I just seafoam'd the engine, changed oil and plugs, hollowed out cat and am building a 1.75" cat-back exhaust. Curious if I'll see any improvements before I throw them out the window with new oversized tires. I have noticed a few times my float seems to stick and flood out to the point the starter couldn't turn the engine over.
Have you checked teh fuel pressure at the carb. The stock carbs only want to see 2.5-3-psi max. Above that gas will push past teh needle, and flood teh engine, or make it run really rich. Mine was running really rich, before I installed the electric pump and regulator. When it warms up a bit, I plan on pulling the stock pump off, and making a blocking plate.
At the end of my 30 mile trip, when I think I'm running out of gas and it's bogging, If it stalls it won't start, but it does crank. No pops tho. Might be flooding.
fuel pump, you’ll need to buy new nipples locally to fit teh smaller fuel lines: https://www.amazon.com/Electric-4-5...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Regulator, again you will need to buy teh correct nipples to fit the fuel lines: https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Reg...prefix=fuel+pressure+regulator,aps,430&sr=8-4
