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1999 Suzuki Carry bad performance...

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by Victor Getov, Jul 3, 2020.

  1. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    Hi Guys, I (nearly) finished the petrol with brake fluid inside and filled fresh petrol with no additives. The performance is still amazing !!! It seems there was some blockage witch was "blown" by the brake fluid. Despite the mixed vacuum hoses I am happy like pig in the mud !!! I will give another update after I finish at least other tank of petrol. Thanks a lot to all of you for your advises. They really helped me !
     
    Limestone likes this.
  2. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    Never used brake fluid, have used ATF and I love Sea Foam!
    Hey I just went threw what you are, I bought a carb from a DR650 and so far WAY better!
    Check it out in thread Carb Swap out
     
    Limestone likes this.
  3. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    UPDATE: Mechanically my happiness was very short. After the tank with brake fluid was finished my Zuki went back to the point I bought it. But not me !!! During this time I spent a lot of time reading from different sources. The problem is between petrol tank and intake manifold. This is for sure. Carburetor out. But now I looked at it with another eyes.
    It seems Ali Baba and 40 thousand thieves were playing with it !!!
    1)The Throttle Position Sensor - working, but out of adjustment. It was starting it's reading not from 0.5 Volt, but from 1.5 Volt ! Wrong adjustment. Fixed. Now starts at 0.5 Volt and reads up to 4.9 Volt. Perfect.
    2) Plunger out. In the "Desperately need tuning help" discussion Spaner posted picture of plunger, needle and instructions. It was SPRING - WASHER - SPACER - CLIP. I made it SPRING - WASHER - CLIP - SPACER. This dropped the needle +/- 6 mm down. Maybe this was the reason to run TOO rich. Plunger back.
    3) I looked at the throttle. It is not closing 100% - maybe 0.2 -0.3 mm gap. Still busy on it. I will share the outcome after test drive.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2020
    Limestone likes this.
  4. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    Hi KCCats, I was told, that brake fluid in the petrol makes the engine to burn all carbon deposits on spark plugs, pistons, valves, EGR ...
     
  5. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    ATF Does too.

    So when you are done messing with the carb I think I have a FIX!
    I have spent the last 3 years with that Junk OEM carb!
    And don't get me started on China Crap!
     
    Limestone likes this.
  6. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    I have read the "Carb Swap out". Very carefully. Four things make something like this Mission Impossible for me.
    1) Covid-19 crap - if I order Grizzly, Rhino or something else from Amazon or AliExpress the delivery time is from 3 months to never - I am in Botswana - Africa.
    2) I have Throttle Position Sensor on the carb, and there is no way to modify the new carb - the closest lathe machine is 945 km from me.
    3) My Zuki is different than yours - no distributor, 4 ports Thermal Vacuum Switch, 4 ports carb, radiator right in front, fuel pump inside the tank, only access to the engine room - from under the seats. So, I can not expect help from the other members based on personal experience. But I am VERY VERY thankful to this forum - the information here is GREAT !!! For a month reading I learned so much !!!
    I am a boilermaker, and from all boilermakers in Botswana, now I am the best car mechanic!
    I wish I had more knowledge to donate to everybody !
    4) The shops here (Maun "town", Okavango Delta) - two in total - are empty like Church on Monday. Today I asked for Fuel Pressure Regulator and the sales people looked at me like I was asking for a Stone made out of Wood.
    As you can see - Snake ahead and Cock behind is my choice !!!
    THE GREAT NEWS IS - I FOUND THE PROBLEM !!!
    This morning I cut the positive wire and installed a On/Off switch between the relay and the petrol pump - for security reasons. Went to see a friend.
    On the way, I switch Off the fuel to see how long can drive only on carb ... and in few seconds...
    ZUKI GOT POWER !!!
    On-Off, On-Off, On-Off ....... goes like a real truck !!!
    Fun enough - when I tested the pump (visually) in the beginning - I thought it gives not enough fuel !!!
    I run to the shops for Fuel Pressure Regulator ... Bad luck ... Pump ONLY for Fuel Injection - 25 to 40 PSI ... Bad luck ...
    At this moment I am busy putting a T-piece before the carb and run another hose back to the tank - to reduce the pressure from the pump.
    I shall post update tomorrow - here now is 21:42 and I am still far from finish .....
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2020
    Limestone likes this.
  7. Kim Smith

    Kim Smith New Member

    I'm almost in the same boat. I bought a new carb and put it on and now it will only run if you hold the pedal to the floor and it want run of 2000 rmps and as soon as you let off the gas it dies.And i have the same truck as you have. I'm thinking it may have a bad fuel pump.
     
    Victor Getov likes this.
  8. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    Hi Kim, The good news is - you are on the best Suzuki Forum on the web. Please, give more details for your truck - make, model, history ect. .... Seems you also don't want to feed "car mechanics" - great !!! Describe in details your problem and I am sure with so much people willing to help you will get it right. Zuki's are tricky, but are vehicles with soul. I fell in love with them some years ago after driving one for a month. Despite the problems with mine - I already put +/- 2000 km on the clock.
     
  9. Kim Smith

    Kim Smith New Member

    First off a friend of mine had this Suzuki Carry 1994 F6a DD51T sitting in the yard and i bought it and I love it!!! So my friend said he could not get it to start with the key that you had to pull it off. Well i took it home started working on it and tried to pull it off would not do nothing.Tried spraying carb fluid in the carb and it wouldn't do anything.Its like the more fuel you gave it the harder it was to get it to hit off.Well i got a idea and hooked another battery to it and it spun a lot faster and the faster it spun the more it wanted to crank.Well i kept doing it and it finally started up but would do nothing but barley run.So i kept running it and running it and it spit back and started running and revving so i was happy as could be and drove it all over the yard.But you still kinda had to keep revving on it to get full power.So i go out the third day and i cant get it to start and it spitting back through the carb very bad. So i said ok its time for a new carb. I buy a new carb but its the 3+1 instead of the 2+3 anyway i do all my research and hook all the water lines back up the factory way. And the vacuum lines where tough but I'm pretty sure I got them right.So i go to fire it up and pretty much the same crap! After several times I got it to start up and ideal but that's it if you give it gas it goes dead. I check the fuel pump and it seems ok but not a whole lot of pressure.
     
    Victor Getov likes this.
  10. Kim Smith

    Kim Smith New Member

    Update so I started it up this evening and still the same thing.But i stuck my finger in the carb and held the flap wide open and it started running better and it started revving some what good. Did it again and it started revving and i was getting happy and I let off the gas and it died again. I just don't understand.
     
    Victor Getov likes this.
  11. Koffer

    Koffer Donating Member

    With all the carb problems have you checked the plugs , for fouling,the cap and rotor for carbon traces and crusty connections? I’ve seen cracked porcelain bad plug wires , timing maybe way off. Or a combo of things . Bad gas with water in it . When you get something not running for sometime and other people try to “ fix it “ first your really behind the 8 ball . When I am “gifted” with a project I 1st listen to what happened when it started giving problems and then try to baseline the truck back to stock setup and pull out all the “ temporary/ trail “fixes and start from scratch.
     
    fmartin_gila likes this.
  12. Kim Smith

    Kim Smith New Member

    I feel like I have a carb that is over loading itself with fuel. You can reach in and pull the carb flap up and it will rev like it suppose too.
     
    Victor Getov likes this.
  13. Koffer

    Koffer Donating Member

    Your talking about the choke flap ?
     
  14. Kim Smith

    Kim Smith New Member

  15. Koffer

    Koffer Donating Member

    Ok
    Are you getting good coolant flow thru the carburetor choke , should get hot pretty quick , as it’s should always have coolant flowing thru it right off the block and internal flow from around the cly water jacket . if your not sure pull one of the lines off the choke ports on the carburetor. Start it up and see if it’s shooting a good stream of water out it . Also the choke maybe adjust incorrectly causing it stay on too much during a cold start .
     
  16. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    Hi Guys,
    For me Kim's problem is EXACTLY like my problem. Carburetor over flowing. As it "spits" back - this mean TOO MUCH fuel coming to the intake manifold. For some reason the carbs (even new ones) can not handle the pressure coming from the petrol pump. My pump also looked VERY weak, but still was giving TOO much fuel.
    Fuel Pressure Regulator from Amazon or local shop for few bucks is the cure. Set between 2 and 2.5 PSI.
    UPDATE:
    I can not get Fuel Pressure Regulator (Botswana, Africa) so I put a T-piece BEFORE the carb and run a NEW hose back to the tank - just to reduce the pressure.
    STARTING AND IDLING - 100% !!!
    20 KM TEST DRIVE - 100% !!!
    MY PROBLEM IS OVER !!!
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2020
  17. Koffer

    Koffer Donating Member

    Glad you got it figured out Victor, the float in your carburetor is set correctly and it’s been a bit since I’ve been in a Suzuki carburetor but was the needle and seat in good condition. Some have a rubber tip on the needle and maybe in the just the seat . Can’t remember if it’s just a polished tip and seat
    the exterior style pump carry’s I’ve messed with when you cycle the key on and off A few times but not starting you will hear the pump run fast and as the level in the carb bowl rises and the float closes the needle and seat the pump slows and stops
    With your situation with parts availably in your area you got to do with what’s on hand so if it’s working you can always revisit it when things get better or if you need to later down the road
     
  18. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    Hi, As I stated above - it seems, that Ali Baba not with 40, but 40 thousand thieves were playing with my carb.
    1 )The needle spacer on the plunger was between the spring and the clip !!! So, my needle was PERMANENTLY 30 - 40% open!I put it back where it suppose to be - on top of the clip.
    2) The O-ring on the seat in the fuel camera was missing. I found one from clutch pump for Toyota Corolla matching and install it. After this I checked the level with the pump on and it was O.K.
    3) The ball on top of the accelerator pump was also missing. I broke a old drilling machine rotor bearing and it fit perfectly.
    The previous owner of my truck imported it from Japan himself and it had just above 150000 km on the clock. He drove it for 4500 km and gave it for service to bush-mechanic. The bush-mechanic (to make some extra bucks) told him that the carburetor also need to be serviced. The owner gave him "Go Ahead" and .... the truck never went on the road again .... It still has the tires it arrived with - 145R12LT - in good condition. Here you can buy ONLY 155R12LT - a bit bigger.
    Despite the fuel problem - now solved - the truck is in excellent condition.
    I AM HAPPY !!!
    P.S. My in tank pump is operated by relay - itself commanded by Throttle Position Sensor. So, it works on demand. I do not have distributor.
    P.S.P.S. All these problems in the end benefited .... me ! I got my truck for $700. This is what the owner asked for. I did not think twice ! Importing truck like this myself from Japan will cost me $3500 - $4500 !!!
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2020
  19. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    !!! If your EGR valve is on wrong vacuum port, !!! or your Temperature Sensor Valve is blocked in "vacuum thru" position !!! your truck will be dyeing every time you leave the accelerator and it goes to idle !!!
     
  20. Victor Getov

    Victor Getov Member

    Hi Guys,
    For me Kim's problem is EXACTLY like my problem. Carburetor over flowing. As it "spits" back - this mean TOO MUCH fuel coming to the intake manifold. For some reason the carbs (even new ones) can not handle the pressure coming from the petrol pump. My pump also looked VERY weak, but still was giving TOO much fuel.
    Fuel Pressure Regulator from Amazon or local shop for few bucks is the cure. Set between 2 and 2.5 PSI.
    UPDATE:
    I can not get Fuel Pressure Regulator (Botswana, Africa) so I put a T-piece BEFORE the carb and run a NEW hose back to the tank - just to reduce the pressure.
    STARTING AND IDLING - 100% !!!
    20 KM TEST DRIVE - 100% !!!
    MY PROBLEM IS OVER !!!
     

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