I just got my Hijet from Japan last week. So far this forum has been a wealth of info. I think that it is going to be a fun truck once I get this issue sorted out. It fires right up and runs on high idle for a few minutes then once it gets warm dies. It will restart sometimes but you have to feather the throttle to keep it going, then eventually it dies until it cools back down and then it will fire back up. Here is a list of what I have done/checked: 1. Cleaned the choke linkage. It appears to be moving freely. The plunger moves down once the temperature comes up and seems to open up the choke. 2. Checked the solenoid for the fuel shutoff on the carb. I hear it clicking when the ignition is turned on. Also heard it with 12v applied directly to the wire connector at the solenoid. I did not remove it though. 3. Pulled the carb cleaned the jets with carb cleaner. They didn't look too bad. Needle and float seemed to move fine. 4. Checked the vacuum lines. They seemed original but didn't see any tears. I did replace one of them that tore when I unhooked to remove the carb. I sprayed carb clearer on them with the engine running and didn't notice any surging. 5. Changed the fuel filter. 6. Checked the coil. Ohm readings were in spec of what the manual gives. 7. I ordered a tune up kit off of ebay. I swapped the plugs and then it wouldn't run at all. Not sure if they were correct for the S110P. I put the original ones back in which had the dual electrode and it ran. Original plugs were pretty white on the electrode so it may be running lean. 8. I noticed that the fuel tank builds pressure. So I have been running it with the cap loosened. I am guessing that the charcoal canister may be clogged. 9. I have tried to adjust the carb. I think that the tall screw on the front side of the motor is the warm adjustment, it seemed to change the rpms while running warm. The problem that I have been having is my tachometer clamped to the spark plug wire is erratic it may bounce between 400 and 900 rpms. This is a harbor freight multimeter set on the 3 cylinder setting. I also have one of those small engine tach where you wrap the wire around the spark plug wire, but the readings were higher than I thought they should be, but I may try it again in series with the other one to see if it makes sense. 10. Timing, I will be checking this soon, just need to keep it running long enough and get the rpms consistent so I can see where it is at. There may be something else that I am forgetting. So if anyone has any ideas they would be appreciated.
Ok, maybe success. The roller on the side of the choke was below the line on the plate that it rolls on. actually the top of the roller was on the line. I assumed the middle of the roller is supposed to be lined up with the line so I moved it. Started it up and it idled for 30 minutes or so. Took it for a short ride and it didn't stall and ran it for long enough for the fan to kick on. It still doesn't run smooth, but I hope changing the vacuum tubes. helps with that. I tried to restart it a few seconds after this and it took a few tries.
Well, took it for a short run, parked it and came back out an hour or so later and it doesn't want to start. So something is going on. I was going to check the timing if I could get it going. The other day when I was looking in the timing hole I saw the 0 thru 10 scale. Is there a mark on the fly wheel that indicates tdc? I didn't notice anything other than some rust spots.
Ok, I tried to check timing this evening before it died. I didn't see a mark on the fly wheel at first. Then I turned the advance knob and when it got to 28 I could see the dimple on the fly wheel. The dimple was steady on the scale at 8 looking thru the timing hole. This is the first time that I have checked timing since I was around 8 so maybe I didn't do it right, but that seems high. This was done while the engine was idling and the vacuum tube from the distributor was plugged. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I could be wrong but I think ~8* advance is about right... if you advanced the timing a lot to get to 8*, that could account for it not running well off of idle... The line on the choke control is supposed to be in the middle of the roller at about 68* (20C) outside temperature. If the temperature is say, 50*F, the roller will be below the line. Set with the screw so the line is lower than the roller if it is less than 68* out. (cold motor) Make sure the mechanism to the choke valve and springs is clean and free. The spring tension on the choke butterfly valve to hold it closed can be adjusted with a screw. Jigs and Fixtures has a description for setting the tension in "searches".
I think I set the roller when it was around 70 the other day so that should be good. I just got the truck a couple of weeks ago and haven't changed the timing. The 8 degrees was what I was seeing with the dial on the back of the gun at 28. I was thinking that I should be reading 8 degrees at idle with the dial at 0. Maybe I am just confused. Also I started another thread on replacing the coil, that is what I am looking at doing next.
Ok, things are looking better. I swapped the plugs and adjusted the timing to 8 degrees. It idled for 45 minutes till I shut it off. It was still running a little rough like maybe a miss every now and then. Then I swapped the distributer cap and plug wires and miss seems to be gone. Ran it up and down the road, seems to run good. The only thing that I notice is that it has a slight vibration I notice at idle that didnt seem to be there before the cap and wires. I am going to check my wires to make sure it is firing on all of the cylinders.
Will do. I realized that I didn't swap the distributor rotor so I did that and put a new accel coil in. The rotor swap may have smoothed it out a little. The vibration was pretty minor and it may be typical on a 27 year old vehicle.
Do you know what RPM you are idling at? I found when warm, about 1050 is smoother; 950 is a bit lumpy in comparison...
