Hi all. I posted an introductory post in the Intro section.... but thought i should start a real post here to chronical my (hopeful) progress. I purchased what i think is a 1994 Diahatsu HiJet S110p (I have no clue what the P represents so I'm guessing on that part). I purchased it an hour away with some known issue(s). I was told that rear brakes had 'cammed over' and the rear wheels would not turn. It also will not idle after the choke comes off. Starts fine and runs ok while choke is on. All 4 CV boots will also need to be replaced (2 inner ones are shot and the outer ones are cracked). We loaded it onto a borrowed trailer by pushing it from the rear with a Kubota UTV of sorts. Before I committed to the purchase, I asked around work if anyone had ever seen such a little 'creature'. To my surprise, I was told that a guy at my plant has one similar. Turns out he has a Mazda mini but he mentioned that he has a buddy (local) that used to sell these minis and has 'a trailer full of parts'. WooHoo - Score ! So - a quick call to the former dealer gets me some basic info and a ballpark value based on what was known at the time (very little). === Fast forward 2 days and it's in my garage and the wife's car is in the driveway. My 2.5 year old loves it and thinks that the HiJet is 'just his size'. He'll be right-hand-driving and left-hand shifting that 5 speed before his mom does. === After some great info here (fupabox's differential post) and from my new HiJet dealer friend Jeff, I surmise that the breaks are fine (albeit with a leaky rear right wheel cylinder)... but the pinion on the rear differential is locked up.. tight. I pull the rear driveshaft and pinion nut. No go. The differential input flange won't budge. I pull the hoghead bolts and find out that axles are driven into the ends and keep it from coming out of the axle housing. So - Saturday I rented/borrowed 2 pullers from local OReily Auto parts. A 3 jaw type puller and a harmonic balancer puller kit. The HB kit would not get close enough to the flange surface to allow me to use the drive shaft bolts and I didn't have any longer ones. The jaw type puller seems to lock behind the flange fine, but would pop off under some pretty good pressure. I was tempted to put some propane torch heat to it, but since I didn't have anyone around to call the fire department if grease ignited, I opted to have a few beers instead. === So fast forward to this evening and my Dad is heading over to lend a hand on pulling the axles out to remove the entire 3rd member. === Does anyone have a part number or specs for the pinion bearing(s)? My local bearing dealer has no usage info and needs specs or part numbers for cross reference. Also - I have contacted Don Andrews about a PDF version of their service manual. I have also searched for this info here and on Google. No luck. Thanks in advance. Glad to find such a good community to get me educated on this fascinating little truck.
Well, got the axles pulled and 3rd member out. All the gears look fine in the differential...but..... Carrier bearing part of the (hoghead) housing is busted. Anyone have a non-locking diff for sale? (Guess I don't need the pinion bearing part number after all)(ha) <wipes tears from greasy face> So much for getting by on the cheap to get it rolling again. jw
I would say $200-300 for a complete used rear end.. You prob won't be able to get just the third member separately, but you never know
So - my calls have had varied results. I located a good 3rd member ONLY for $330 delivered ($300 plus $30 UPS). I located an entire rear end for $500 delivered ($350 plus $150 freight). I located another entire rear end delivered for $875 ($700 plus $175 freight). Although I think the $330 is too much, I haven't found any other options. It seems that our devalued US dollar and supply/demand are winning this battle. If any forum members have anything they are willing to part with, please let me know !! Thanks
Have you found any crossovers for belts? Can you get belts for these at any auto store? The one mine came with is a little loose on the pump
Will any rear end work? If so I know where a Mitsubishi truck is for $200 only thing missing is engine trans and windshield or than that its a complete truck
I'll admit that my knowledge of minis is limited to what I've learned in the past week. I can't comment on what rear ends would work OR what belts would cross over. Sorry. I was able to speak to one more dealer who has an entire rear end at a fair price and <thinks> that UPS can deliver it. If so, then the shipping puts it at an affordable cost. Fingers crossed and a prayer said ! I'll know more tomorrow. Keep the input coming - it is much appreciated.
ok - so here is a picture of the differential with the carrier bearing portion broken: That funky looking stuff on the ring gear is actually gouged out of the metal, but almost looks like it was cast that way or happened a long time ago. Certainly weird tho.
Ok - so, I've got an axle housing with differential, axles and a wheel cylinder on the way. If UPS drives it like they stole it, I should have it Friday PM. If my luck prevails, then it will be Monday. Either way, progress is progress.
Best of luck jwicker. Please keep us posted with plenty of pics if possible. Don't know that it will help much, but here is the link to my post on swapping out a rear axle : http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?12246-S210P-Diff-Lock-mod-done!!! Not a bad job at all, as mentioned, my biggest problem was bleeding the rear brakes.
ok - so the mini got new shoes...now - just waiting on the rearend - that is scheduled for a Monday delivery. Also picked up all 4 CV boots, new rear shocks and a front left bumper signal.
I think I've got a plan laid out to cut the front of the front wheel well for the new larger tires. Anyone else have picts of their cuts for reference?
So - am I the only one that has to trim the front doors/fender wells? Or am I running a weird size wheel/tire combo? thanks
I have not yet measured the clearance while loading and unloading the front suspension, but have approximately 3/4" sitting under its own weight:
So, we got the HiJet on the road today. New shocks, swapped out the rearend and got the brakes on and bled. Put in some fresh gas and a bottle of Seafoam. Started right up. Choke came off after warm and it sputtered to a stop. Watched Fupabox's video on how to set the carb. Got it running and after some tinkering, got it to idle. Went around the neighborhood twice ( maybe 6 blocks). Aside from the obscenely high idle, it ran like a dream. Didn't die, bog, hesitate etc. Ran great. Had to start with the idle really really high. Then slowly, very slowly, adjust it down to something closer to good. It idled witht the fan running for a good 20 minutes. Shut it off and it started right up. Shut it off and let it sit for maybe 10 minutes. State right up. My Dad, and lead mechanic (ha), headed home. After cleaning up all the tools and getting the garage back to some order, I hopped in to amaze my wife and kid and pull the beast into the garage for the night. No go. Cranked for a few minutes and it never hit a lick. Ended up frustrated and pushed it in and called it a night. I have been watching the other leading Daihatsu thread about another one that dies when warm. Fingers crossed. Thoughts, suggestions, comments and prayers appreciated. jw
I'm intimidated to pull the carb off..... it looks like Medusa with all the vacuum hoses. IF I can get it to start back up - maybe by manually pushing the choke closed...... maybe running enough SeaFoam thru it will clear it up. I can't really afford to replace the carb in HOPES that it is the problem. Is there anyone that I can send my carb to and have them rebuild? (I'm thinking that would be far cheaper than a replacement....but even the carb kits are nearly $200)(OUCH !!!!!) Again - all suggestions are much appreciated. Carbs really aren't in my comfort zone, but I'm okay at following directions. thanks again jw
I don't want to get you in over your head but if you label/take pics it would help reduce the stress of removing the carb. Once you have it off it's not that hard to open and clean (I'm assuming they're similar to motorcycle carbs - if I'm wrong someone chime in). In my experience, if the idle and slow jet are plugged up running cleaner w/ the fuel will not fix it. Inside the carb you'll look something like this.
A while back chaseo found a carb kit on ebay for something like $40.The last I heard it was on backorder and supposed to be delivered in April.He might chime in or you could try to PM him. The carbs aren't that bad but it sure helps to take lots of pics to re locate the vac lines.The last one I got into had a load of crud in the float bowl and a stainless needle valve without the neoprene tip.I ran but not very well.Good luck.
chaseo responded with this link: http://www.siriusconinc.com/product.php?parent_id=34&start=50 I don't specifically see a kit for the '94 S110... so I sent them an email. I'll add more info if the respond.
Per Sirius Conslidated (previous link), they do not carry a carb kit for my HiJet. Unless I suddenly get smart on the intricacies of Daihatsu fuel delivery, I guess I'll save my pennies and order a replacement rebuilt carb from Yohohama.
I may go ahead and pull the carb off after taking a lot of pictures and marking the vacuum lines. If i can't resolve the issue, I'll order a rebuilt carb from Yokohama. I might be able to start that process this weekend. Maybe. But the little voice in my head says to order the rebuild and have it on hand.
