1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

1989 mighty mits timing belt help

Discussion in 'Mitsubishi Minicab' started by md88, Jul 26, 2008.

  1. toddk

    toddk New Member

    HELP? 1989 mits engine power loss in 4 th gear after rebuild

    Just rebuilt Mitsubishi 1989 supercharged 550. Motor losses power when in 4 th and 5 th gear. Not sure if it's timing issue or carb/ vacuum problem. Have replaced several of the vac hoses that where questionable
     
  2. Dan

    Dan Member

    2100 is way to high for idle rpms... loss of torque at high rpm's / gears could be an over advance issue. retarding the timing will also bring your idle rpms back down also. are you using a timing gun or setting up by ear? shoot for around 6-8 for advance and see how that goes
     
  3. g-rod

    g-rod New Member

    hey guys newbie here

    i just bought this 89 mighty mits it has a 548cc engine , can anyone tell me if it is a interference engine , meaning if the timing is off will it bend the valves , i have six valves total , .
     
  4. Dan

    Dan Member

    its not interference...
     
  5. g-rod

    g-rod New Member

    thanks dan

    i appreciate it , is there any guys out there from vancouver area , any of these mini truck clubs go on outing etc. ? i am in abby b.c. do you know how many horses i should have ?
     
  6. g-rod

    g-rod New Member

    manual s

    is there any where i can download any manuals for these online for free? any used parts guys around van area ? i need a box floor
     
  7. g-rod

    g-rod New Member

    hey guys

    anyone from b.c.abbotsford here
     
  8. cgasch

    cgasch Member

    I have a 1997 minicab and am trying to get it timed. When it is a TDC the cam pulley is about 3/4 of the way past the first mark between the two timing marks. How do I get it lined up on the first mark?
     
  9. Dan

    Dan Member

    Sounds like you still have the belt on. Turn the engine three more revolutions and the marks should all come back into alignment. If not, follow full procedure in the references above.
     
  10. cgasch

    cgasch Member

    The belt is off and I have the other two in time.
     
  11. Dan

    Dan Member

    Roll the cam gear over with a wrench until the two marks are near the top. The one on the left (facing it) will be the one that you align. The other is where you will turn the engine to after the belt is on and then lock down the tensioner.
     
  12. Dan

    Dan Member

    don't forget about the oilpump pully. it also serves as the balance for the motor.
     
  13. cgasch

    cgasch Member

    OK here are some pictures. The first one is the timing mark on what I think is tdc with rotor pointing #1 plug. If I am wrong on any of this please let me know.I am assuming the center mark is tdc.

    [​IMG]


    The next picture is one of the cam sprocket. You can see the white marked tooth is the timing mark. The two black marks are the timing marks on the cover I think. When I rotate the cam sprocket with a wrench,when it gets close to the upper mark(about 4 or 5 teeth) it jumps to the position it is in now.


    [​IMG]


    The last picture is of the oil sprocket and crank sprocket location when on tdc. If my tdc analysis is correct.


    [​IMG]


    Thanks for any help you can give me because I am stuck out in nowhere about 100 miles north of Mexico border.
     
  14. Dan

    Dan Member

    The top pic...the mark on top is where you need to have it as the belt goes on. if it doesn't hold there on its own, you'll need to steady it as the belt goes on.

    the bottom pic... you're off a little. it is hard to get a good visual of the marks/notches. i use a telescoping mirror to get a direct line-of sight on them. if you can't, the marks need to be in the position that they are closest together. notice that they move in opposite directions from eachother. the top one should be 1/16 to the left. and the bottom, 1/16 to the right. or you'll be a tooth off.

    after the belt is on, check everything again. as the tension pulls on the gears it is easy to not notice that it pulled the gears around a little.

    did you rotate the oil pump any while the belt was off? if so, you'll need to make sure it is in its proper rotation or the internal balancer will be out of whack and your truck will shake. *see diagram at the top of the thread*
     
  15. Dan

    Dan Member

    The top pic...the mark on top is where you need to have it as the belt goes on. if it doesn't hold there on its own, you'll need to steady it as the belt goes on.

    the bottom pic... you're off a little. it is hard to get a good visual of the marks/notches. i use a telescoping mirror to get a direct line-of sight on them. if you can't, the marks need to be in the position that they are closest together. notice that they move in opposite directions from eachother. the top one should be 1/16 to the left. and the bottom, 1/16 to the right. or you'll be a tooth off.

    after the belt is on, check everything again. as the tension pulls on the gears it is easy to not notice that it pulled the gears around a little.

    did you rotate the oil pump any while the belt was off? if so, you'll need to make sure it is in its proper rotation or the internal balancer will be out of whack and your truck will shake. *see diagram at the top of the thread*
     
  16. Scotty

    Scotty New Member

    I'm thinking of buying a mighty mites.. Are parts hard to find?
     
  17. Liuxias

    Liuxias New Member

    the lower gears have a notch in the outter gear surface that appears to line up with a dimple in the block. the oil pump gear has the same notch and it lines up with the dimple as well as a line in the outer surface that gear lines up with a pointer on the block. The truck now starts great and has tons of power. I don't know if iI'm being bit critical but it feels like there might be a bit more vibration that normal.




    handyh├╝lle iphone 6s
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2015

Share This Page