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1989 mighty mits timing belt help

Discussion in 'Mitsubishi Minicab' started by md88, Jul 26, 2008.

  1. md88

    md88 New Member

    have a 89 mighty mits, need help with timing marks. any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Dan

    Dan Member

    three pulleys and the oil pump need to be in sync. the bottom two pulleys are marked on the forward surface and need to be aligned with the casting marks behind them. the cam pulley has two marks on it. if they are near the top, the one on the left is the one to align for timing. the other is where you rotate the engine to for your final tensioning of the idler before you lock it down. the oil pump is aligned by pulling a threaded plug from the side of the block and sliding a rod/bolt of the same size in the open hole. it will need to be 3-4" long to reach a cam lobe in the block. as you insert the rod, you should feel it hit the cam lobe and you need to rotate the engine clockwise until the rod passes by the cam freely. this is the point of alignment for the oil pump.

    before you pull off the old one, rotate the engine clockwise until the marks are in alignment. i think every 4th rotation will align everything. it is very easy to miss by one tooth while you are sliding the belt on so, check and recheck after you set the tensioner. exact timing is critical. it will run but will lack any power. use mirrors to get a direct line of sight down the splines/ribs to the casting marks.
     
  3. slimbad

    slimbad Member

    89 Mighty Mits Timing Belt

    md88, what Dan said.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. slimbad

    slimbad Member

    89 Mighty Mits Timing Belt

    md88, got the pages out of order - plus missed one. just read the page number at top of images.......later, slim
     

    Attached Files:

  5. C3imports

    C3imports Member

    Guys, I used this info on my 91 mitsi to do the timing belt. I did get it off one tooth as trucked started Hard like avanced timing issue. and then had no power. I took it appart again and reset it.
    I had trouble identifying the marks on the Crank and oil pump gears.
    the lower gears have a notch in the outter gear surface that appears to line up with a dimple in the block. the oil pump gear has the same notch and it lines up with the dimple as well as a line in the outer surface that gear lines up with a pointer on the block. The truck now starts great and has tons of power. I don't know if iI'm being bit critical but it feels like there might be a bit more vibration that normal.
    Is there a balancer shaft tied in with the oil pump drive gear. It is the same size gear as the crank so should be a 1 to 1 and the marks line up????
    Any advice here?
     
  6. Dan

    Dan Member

    http://www.minitrucktalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=609&d=1217157507

    Yes, there is a balancer on the oil gear. If any of the gears were independntly rotated while the belt was off, you'll need to re time all of the gears by the steps on the above page that slim posted. the balancer is internal and gear driven 4/1 ratio. it is important to feel for the cam with a bolt inserted in the side of the engine. with the bolt/rod in, you'll feel it come in contact while you rotate the oil gear, then pull the bolt out far enough to clear the cam then rotate a few degrees until the bolt slides past the cam lobe. at this point you'll align the marks and only have a few degrees of rotation in either direction before the bolt binds with the cam lobe.

    without that step you could be 90, 180 or 270 degrees off with the balancer but, it would still run. Just out of balance.
     
  7. C3imports

    C3imports Member

    Thanx Dan, Took the fan and timing cover off again, that makes about 5 times now, ( wana race). anyway found plug for timing hole and realigned everything with the shaft in the timing hole on TDC. It was out!. installed belt and reassembled engine. Vibration is gone and truck runs like a top.
    Thanx to you and others for your help.
     
  8. Dan

    Dan Member

    Glad it worked out. sounds like you're a wiz with the motors now. was that a 550 or one of the jdm 660 motors you were working with? Why was it apart? a rebuild or just a belt?? I'm ready for racing lets go!!( off road of course!) I've been adding stickers to my windows so you better watch out.:cool: Thinking about the ss stripes for a paintjob:rolleyes: should be good for some huge pony power.

    Dan
    heres mine again in the mits tequila video...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=locWAUEcxOQ
     
  9. Timetripper

    Timetripper Moderator

    Dan, What band was performing "Tequila" as the music on your vid?
     
  10. Dan

    Dan Member

    Thats Sammy Hagar! one of my personal favorites!!

    "can't drive 55" will probably find its way into another video someday..:rolleyes:
     
  11. Timetripper

    Timetripper Moderator

    Thought it sounded like Sammy just wasn't 100%
    Just read interesting review on his latest work.
     
  12. C3imports

    C3imports Member

    Dan, it is a 660. had it appart to do a head gasket. another thread. I TDC'd the engine before it came appart but the oil pump must have rolled on me a bit while fumbling around. (That was a race to see how quick you could get the front of your engine apart) as I just did it enough times to make me wish it was on zippers.
    The heating problem started with no heat on the vents but it was just bad enough to run well for 15 20 minutes then act up. once I commited to lifting the head all was revealed.
     
  13. Dan

    Dan Member

    :eek:ooooh. wrong racing...

    Yeah i wish i had zippers on mine when i first got them too. Almost 20 years with the same trucks led to some zippy quick teardowns. two of us with a little familiarity with them could rack it up and have an engine apart on the bench in well under an hour... I think you can take the whole truck apart with 5 tools which makes it easy too.
     
  14. dieseldogsdad

    dieseldogsdad Member

    Oil pump

    I've got some questions about the oil pump. Where is the threaded plug, is it about in the middle of the side of the block front to back and up and down? Does the rod have to be 8mm or would a 1/4" rod work? Is 8mm the same as 5/16"? I just got my head back from the machine shop (was warped .010) and would like to make sure oil pump is set. Last time I must have got lucky because it ran fine and smooth. Any help on this will be appreciated.
     
  15. slimbad

    slimbad Member

    Shame on you - make me go out and lay on that cold ground to gps that plug:D. Anyway, look below the front of the exhaust manifold on the block (between and slightly lower than the two freeze plugs) it should be at the 4 o'clock position about an inch away from the front freeze plug.

    As for the rod, if you can't find 8mm go with 5/16" that is the closest (7.9375mm).

    Also most of the other info is in this thread and one other you posted on about needing a head:sly:. Good luck and post results.

    On a side note my EX grew up on Wheeling Island (last name Ostrander) she graduated in the early 80's. I don't know which I enjoyed the most "Big Bertha's":eek: (downtown Wheeling) or Ogelsby(sp) park out on I-70.

    Hope some of this helps.........later, slim
     
  16. Dan

    Dan Member

    I've done it with a screwdriver. you're just trying to find the flat on the balancer inside the block. you find thepoint that the rod will pass over the flat and binds against the rod when you rotate it a few teeth in either direction. split the difference and mark it with something so you can install the belt. I think there is a detailed procedure in a section of the manual i uploaded.
     
  17. 3banger

    3banger Member

    Thanks for this wonderful thread. I've been reading Dan's manual but didn't feel like I'd understood well enough to go confirm if mine is timed right.

    Do I have to pull the pulleys of to check if things are hunky dory? I just had a peek but couldn't see a thang other than the upper marks for the cam.

    Thanks!
     
  18. Dan

    Dan Member

    you'll have to pull off the fan and pulley to get the timing cover loose. see post 6 & 7 theres an attachment that shows the marks you're looking for. manually roll the engine over to align the marks. i think every other or maybe every fourth revolution, the marks will all come back in to alignment. i use a mirror to give me a direct line-of-sight on the lower pulleys.
     
  19. 3banger

    3banger Member

    Could not budge that crank pulley bolt. Too scared of mashing knuckles. I had a 3/8 ratchet with a 17mm wrench as extra leverage.

    I see 4 bolts on that main pulley as well... I guess it splits into two?

    I'm going back with a breaker bar. I've been too used to my pretty knuckles anyway
     
  20. toddk

    toddk New Member

    Just rebuilt 1989 mits with the 550. Idles at 2100 rpm. Has power till 4th and 5th gear. Is this carb problem or timing issue.
     

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