Looking for a working or non working fuel shutoff solenoid for a S110 Hijet carburetor. Would also be interested in a whole carburetor if someone has one for sale.
SHOP, Pretty interested in the response here! Simply cause I couldn't find the two solenoids that I was looking for on mine, at any price! I wound up with an aftermarket carb., and manual choke, that I might somewhere down the rd. change! Limestone
Haven't been able to find anything that I can use to plug the port where the solenoid goes. I have determined the size though as M8 x 1mm thread. Think I might have to machine a plug to fit if I can't find a inoperable solenoid to use as a plug. I don't want to destroy mine just yet.
shop, You would think that there would be some kind of plug in those metric dimensions that would be available for a plug! I kept my old carb., just needs the two solenoids if I ever run accross them! Limestone
M8X1 is a metric fine thread. $5.99 with free shipping. There are some listed for less, but they are in China, and the delivery estimate is November. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153749918531
You can usually get that size at advance auto, if your in a hurry, and only need one or two, and don't mind spending an extra buck or two! Limestone
I can’t believe there’s no Chinese knock off of these solenoids. At 200 a pop I think they would be jumping on them. I’m afraid a bolt might not seal good as it doesn’t have a boss or square shoulder for a fiber or copper washer to seal against. I think I’m going to turn a piece of brass down and thread it that way I can make it the same length as the threads on the orig. solenoid. Was thinking if I can find a used solenoid to open it and see if I could repair the windings or rewind it completely. Seems crazy that a carb needs replaced for a solenoid. The solenoid I found from Yokohama Motore for $234 won’t work as it’s for a EFNS engine. Rebuilt carb is $477.00
I agree! I was hoping, one of the guys who deal directly overseas, knew of where these dog gone solenoids could be found! The two wire and the single wire! I did find a single wire solenoid that I tried, and I will try to find the link, and post it! My thoughts are if you eliminate the solenoids, your going to have trouble with, so called dieseling, and pre/post ignition! That's why I didn't go that route! Limestone
That might be , but right now I’d rather have it diesel than not run at all. I’m hoping that solenoid is the problem and at least I’ll know what’s needed. Hate seeing it sit in the driveway and not be able to drive it. Such a waste over such a minor part.
shop, I'm having a hard time, sending the link over, when my computer guru wife gets up, I'll try to re send it! In the mean time; Google; Cool Cruisers of Texas, go to Electrical parts, solenoid, idle, and you'll see the two wire, and single wire, that I tried! The single wire solenoid matched up pretty good and fit properly, but the rod in the two wire, was short, hence, wouldn't work properly! The parts were only $15.98! I thought that was pretty good! If nothing else, they do screw in and seal fuel out! I think these were parts for a land cruiser, or Toyota, which would make sense! LIMESTONE
I was in your shoes, and went with an aftermarket carb. with manual choke! It wasn't my first choice, as you have to old school feather it, especially when cold, or in the cold weather! Try this link; https://www.coolcruisers.com/idsolfj19thr.html! I hope this helps, I'm interested in your resolve, as when I get more time, I plan on making changes! Thanks! Limestone
Limstone are you interested in selling the 2 wire one. I’m planing to cut it open and see if I can possibly Frankenstien something out of it.
I did go to their site and thanks for sending the info. I’d love to be able to come up with something that would work and maybe if others come across this situation it might help them out also. Do you have the original non working one?
I have both, and at this time, I'm not interested in selling, in case I decide to FRANKENSTEIN, it myself! Sorry! Limestone
No problem, just thought I’d ask before ordering one. Any idea why one has one wire and the other two?
Never got that far into it technically! Due to info., being hard to come by, I haven't been able to research that! Maybe Jigs or someone like him or Fred, with more technical savvy, could weigh in! Limestone
Made the plug and tried it right before dark. Still no go. I can get it to start right up and run as long as I feed it ether. There still seem to be a no gas issue. Plug didn’t seem to make any difference as far as to getting it to start.
Found out the two wire one is a ground. I assume the one wire one gets its ground through the body of the solenoid.
shop, It's been a bit since I was working on that carb. and I didn't remember that about the solenoid, but I am making notes in my folder as we speak. That's great info! Providing your having good grounding through you unit, maybe that's the case. Several of us have had grounding issues in the past! I've added grounding straps through out my mini! Dorman makes the stainless steel grounding straps of various lengths, pretty reasonable! So not remembering everything, you have fuel to the carb. from the pump/tank? Along with these carb. issues over the yrs., several people have had fuel, pump, tank, filter problems. I don't remember if you've addressed all of that yet! Limestone
Mechanical pump puts out a full hose of fuel while being cranked over with the starter. It seems odd that with all the cranking and pumping the pedal I don’t smell any gas like if it would be flooding. Seems like there is something blocking the fuel from moving through the carb. I’ve never see the inside of these carbs, but assume its’s pretty much like any other. If the valve allowing gas coming in at the float & fuel bowel was stuck would that cause a situation of no fuel for starting?
Yes! That was my next suggestion! These carbs. in my opinion, and a very good friend of mine who is a carb. expert, think that their a little complicated, and shouldn't be! You know yourself, it doesn't take much to gum up a carb.! Needle jet sticking, float saturated, not working properly, or at the wrong angle setting! Don't forget, today's fuels eat "o" ring rubber of yesteryear, with the ethanol, and what have you! Some guys run hi octane, premium fuels to help eliminate this problem! Several threads in the forums past on this, and carb. problems! Limestone
Try disconnecting the vacuum line at the charcoal canister. It connects to the bowl vent. If it is blocked, or the charcoal canister is clogged, it can prevent air getting out of the fuel bowl, and at 2-psi the fuel can’t get enough into the bowl. Also teh carb has a powered vent system, so it could be bad. There is a picture of the carb on teh GR Imports site, which kind of shows the vent assembly.
The canister in the pic is not very large compare the hose to the canister body. That’s why I ask if this is it. The larger hose goes to the Powered float bowl vent valve on the carb. Where is the bowel vent located? Is it the smaller of the two hoes in the picture?
Not sure without looking, and I’m stuck in the house hiding from the smoke. The canister on mine is back by the fuel tank, mounted to the right frame rail, about six inches forward of the front of the gas tank. It is about the size of a Campbells chunky soup can. A clogged charcoal canister will cause a host of weird problems. The fuel tank, and float bowl can’t vent correctly so strange pressures build up, they can result in fuel not being able to enter the float bowl, or the return line form the pump getting back pressure, and the fuel pressure getting so high the needle and float can’t hold back and a completely full float bowl. I’d say that the little can in the picture is a filter for the bowl inlet, and the vacuum system for the 4wd actuators. I hadn’t notices one on my truck, but haven’t looked for one. I do know there is a tin can vacuum reservoir that sits on the left frame rail pretty much right above there.
Looks like I'm going to have to get a rebuild kit and take the carb off. I see there's a filter that appears to be on top of the needle valve housing. I'm thinking that could be plugged or the needle stuck. I was really hoping not to have to take the carb off and open it, but I'm at a loss on other options.
I see GR Imports have a kit for 50.00? Anybody know if this is a good kit and if it has all the pieces for a rebuild?
I bought one after having to call round to carb rebuilder shops to get the parts to rebuild mine. Has everything you’ll need for a basic rebuild.
shop, That's a good price! I paid a lot more, when I did the carb. rebuild! A soak can of Gunk, carb. parts clean, and your good to go! Limestone
orders in. Hope this gets her up and running again. Might have to go to the ethanol free gas after this. I’ve been going to start using it for all my 2 cycle stuff, but haven’t gotten around to it. This truck only has 13241 kilometers on it, so should have a long life left.