Mitsubishi Minicab oil filter ; Use Wix #51365 (U41, u42, U61, etc.. all show up in the listing) You can buy this filter from UAP NAPA as a 1365. It is a NAPA Gold but still says Win on the box in fine print. http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=51365 Click on "applications"
Hi I have a 92 Hi jet that I use 0/30 synthetic oil in year round. If you are going to use this truck any amount in the winter, this is the only way to go. I also changed out the oil in the transmission, transfer case and differentials to a full synthetic transmission/ hydraulic fluid. You can actually start this thing at -30 without holding the clutch in. With the regular gear oil you would be lucky if the motor would even turn over let alone start at these temps.
Question for you guys, I just rebuilt my engine and curious if I should start off with conventional oil like castrol 10w 30 with a zinc based break in oil or a full synthetic? Not real sure what to do here. Thanks
I think the general consensus is start off with conventional for break in like you said then switch to synthetic.
I purchased/ordered some lucas break in oil 20w 50, it has a high zinc content and it wasn't until i turned it over did i read not street legal. Im guessing its for really high performance engines. Will it hurt to use it or should i send it back?
It wont hurt it but that's a heavy weight oil (and expensive). Personally I'd use cheap (as in penzoil, Valvoline, mobil) conventional 10w30 w/ break in additive and run it for 500 miles and then switch to 10w30 full synthetic.
The 0W 30 sounds like a good idea. I use my '95 Carry as a daily driver. Bought on the Canadian May long weekend and put 3,000 km on in since then. I used Amsoil in my 6 li. GMC and never had problems with winter starts (never plugged in). Although I have a block heater in the Carry I don't plan to use it. I _do_ want to ensure that I have no winter start problems. One question, though: I have a four speed and drive it at speeds up to 90 kmh (sometimes 100 for a short while) while traveling back and forth to work. Would the 0 weight be sufficient for summer use?
I have to chime in here. First off I don't think a lot of people understand oil. The difference between 15w40 and 15w40 diesel is that the diesel has all the natural minerals in it for lubrication. Hence in marine application or breaking in the cam on a new rebuilt you use diesel grade oil or a break in additive for the first oil change. In marine application we stick with the oil due to the engine always under load and high revs. Also once you switch to synthetic oil you never, ever go back to non synthetic. In aircraft application and a good rule of thumb is if you have to add more than 20 percent of your oil capacity to top up your engine oil you actually should change the whole thing. Very strict rules for aviation. Take my opinion as you may.
The manual I have says 4 liters of 5W30 SE to SJ grade. I suggest running a minimum SJ synthetic 5W30, check your stick after 3.5 liters though. Also Fram PH3614 or a Wix 51348 filter fits my F6A 1999 DB52T. Here is some useful info for the DB52T: Part Brand Part Number Spark Plugs NGK DCPR7E Alternator Belt Dayco Top Cog 15300 11A0760 AC Belt Dayco Top Cog 15310 11A0785 Engine Oil Filter Fram PH3614 Wix 51348 Engine Oil 4 Liters of 5W30 SJ SE to SJ Transmission Oil 3.5 Liters Int AXC API GL-4 75W90 Front Differential Oil 0.8 Liters API-GL5 80W90 Rear Differential Oil 1.3 Liters API-GL5 80W90 Brake Fluid DOT 3 Oil Coolant 4 Liters PCV 9GS 73G10 Ignition Coil Mitsubishi 33400-76G1 Fuel Injector (Blue Injector) INP-772 (one side) K799277 (other side) Starter Mitsubishi 12V 31100-78A0 0 / 9726 TYPE - M002T13481
x2 on the WIX 51348. Here is some clarification on oil filters at least regarding the 90's model F6A motors. I used my handy thread gauges and measured the thread pitch on my filter housing on my 1995 Carry 4x4 and it was a standard 3/4x16 pitch and NOT M20x1.5 metric threads like mentioned earlier in this thread. You would think so but its not. Even though I measured the filter housing threads I bought both a metric and standard threaded filters and when I threaded the M20x1.5 filter it was so loose there is no way you would think it was right. It would have definitely blown off! The proper 3/4x16 threaded filter threaded on perfect and went on tight. Its a little larger diameter filter but the seal fits perfect on the filter housing and similar flow rates as the stock filter and more filter capacity. I used 3 qts. of valvoline 10w-30 regular oil and a WIX 51348 filter.
I have heard this before and switch my Toyota Camry to 15w40 earlier this year and it would barely start and struggled to perform. Once the oil was drained and 5w30 went back in the problem went away. I wonder how these small 550 or 660 engines do with it. I heard of people running 15w40 in lawnmowers also. Not saying that you are wrong or right just sharing my recent experience. Thanks
Diesel oil should not be anywhere near these engines. They are roller cam, OHC. The zinc was needed to keep flat tappet cam, pushrod engines lubricated. These do not require the zinc and the oil is much too heavy. It is also a misconception these days that Rotella is best for ZDDP. Rotella complied with modern ratings quite a few years ago and ZDDP is below 800 PPM now. Valvoline VR1 has 1,200 PPM but is only available in 20W50 and bars leak sells an addative that will make 1,5-800 PPM depending on base oil content. But again, is not needed/ recomended for an F5A/F6A/K6A engine at all.
I use 20-W40 here in the Philippines. The temperature here is almost always 85-90 deg F. I cant find 5w30 or 10w30 here in Ormoc City, Leyte.
My local Lordco found this filter for me: Baldwin B33 Lordco Canada part #400833 I have used this successfully for two oil changes. Made in USA.