Here's my adventure thusfar: Having trouble getting this 1995 s110p ef-ns hijet to start. Buddy says dist cap got wet and it wouldn't start, he got it running, then it rained again... it then sat for a year and had no spark when I bought it last week. Cleaned the plugs and points at the distributor cap/rotor, still nothing. Found a little relay under the coil that was corroded, cleaned it up and now we have spark. Will run on gas in the intake but can't get the carb to pick up. Idle stop solenoid clicks with the key turn, I haven't pulled it but I can feel and hear it actioning with 12v. Fuel pump is working and seems to pulse through all the lines it should. Sounds like a stuck float. Have been hoping I could avoid pulling the carb but no amount of seafoam soaking or carb cleaner through the intake or down the needle jet will get fuel coming through. But if I turn it over with plug #1 out it starts to cough and grumble, there's fuel somewhere. Touched the ignition this morning and it started right up, idled then died. Turned it over again, same thing. Turned in the cold idle adjust screw, started, idled stronger and longer. Another half turn in, won't start.... 3/4 turn back, nothing. Back to only starting with ether or gas in the intake. Could be fuel ran down the needle to the bowl overnight and the choke circuit picked up but the float needle is still stuck Am I just flooding it? Plugs are dry after cranking it over pumping the throttle. Only wet if I've been directly feeding fuel. Might be some oil on them....hmmm. Looks like strong spark but will replace with some ngk BPR5Es just in case one is a bit weak and I didn't notice. I don't think spark is my problem though I'll still wait for new plugs before I pull the carb and check the float. Could be bad fuel, I just poured some in the tank when I brought it home to see what would happen, like a said it's sat for a year. With no drain on the carb bowl to help me. What's the best line to pull to pump everything out and get fresh fuel in? There are two lines from the pump, the lower one goes directly to the carb, very hard to get to! That's the one I want to supply fresh fuel to I would think. Should I hit it with compressed air across the end of the pump to carb hose to try and venturi the old fuel out the bowl? Then maybe put a 12v pump to it with fresh fuel? Seems like my fuel pump is doing fine though. How do I tell if my canisters are shot? I can blow through the hoses going to them, they don't seem very restrictive. If I pull the carb and the bowl is full and the jets clean then I'll probably be putting in an amazon one. Like this: (I can't find it now anyone have link?) It ran last year.... it ran this morning! Well, sort of. Was my tank sucking or blowing when I unscrewed the cap? Not sure, but it definitely did one of those things! I've got the cap loose at the moment, maybe i should have it tight. I bet it's easier to pull the bed off then then carb, I need to do so anyway for some welding and painting. What will looking at the top of the fuel tank tell me? I know fuel is getting to the carb, but I suspect there's some vaccum related dickery afoot. What am I missing? Oh yeah, the choke was adjusted to wide open! I adjusted it to just under 1/4" or so from closed. That was just before it ran. How accurate do I need to be? It should be closed when cold and off right? Just a 1/4" gap at the bottom? I noticed that the spring is barely making an affect on the butterfly valve, spraying carb cleaner through the intake will flap the choke open some. Watching some videos it seems I should have more tension on the valve from the spring, maybe the choke is blowing open due to a loose spring? I'll try and put another turn on it and see if the resistance feels right. Someone was in here before me, I shouldn't assume those vaccum lines are right, they look like they're going the right places, ha! I'll have a look at the diagram I found here and make sure. The dampeners seem to restrict the flow a lot but still allow some through. Should the cold idle screw be turned in enough to be lifting the throttle cam? How much? I've no idea where that screw was when I had it idling. So what am I missing? Been over all the threads. Maybe the idle solenoid is just making noise and not disengaging, maybe a canister is blocked and I'm getting back pressure or something. Should I put in a new fuel pump and 2.5psi regulator before pulling the carb? How about as a test, putting a 12v 6psi fuel pump in line right before the carb to see if it will force fuel past the float needle, if It does I can be confident that the float is at least able to allow fuel through but the level could be off still. If I can get it fo run on the 12v pump i guess it would mean pull the carb and adjust the float. I'll see if I can borrow a low pressure gauge and check the psi of the stock fuel pump It almost wants to start with plug #1 removed, what's that about? Possible flooding or maybe a vacuum issue? Maybe with a blocked canister, I'm getting fuel line back pressure that is reduced when I have 1 less cylinder adding pressure.... Plugs look a bit rough but spark well, I shuffled them and it hasn't run on the carb since so maybe one is weak and only likes to be in a certain cylinder. New plugs will be here in a few days. I haven't checked compression or valve lash, by the sound of it when it runs I don't think that's it. Maybe I should replace all those vaccum hoses. Is there a way fo test if I have adequate vacuum without a gauge? Hose on my tongue or something? Okay so I pulled the fuel lines from the pump again, plenty of fuel came out the one that goes back to the tank then it stopped flowing, it looked and smelled clean enough. The one to the carb squirts fuel when cranking over. It's yellow, orange and smells like it looks. The lines to and from the tank are heavily corroded but don't leak. Waiting for the battery to charge so I can crank it until it runs clean, second cup was better. While the line is off, maybe I should squirt some carb cleaner down the jet from the top, to see if it starts coming out the nipple...though I guess I can be pretty sure it's not completely gummed because it did start. Oh yeah, while I had the carb top off and needle out I was squirting carb cleaner down the jet to try and clean it out some. Went to turn it over to pump the fuel line out and it started right up! I shut it down immediately as the top was open and there's lots of debris floating around. Put the needle back in and tried again, nothing. I'll wait until I pump out the bad fuel before hooking the line up and trying again but I'm optimistic. Might bottle feed some fuel to the carb to see if I can squeeze some past the needle. I think it might just be bad fuel! Though I've thought it was a lot of things so far. I turned the choke in a bit more and now the spring resistance feels normal but there's no 1/4" opening at the bottom anymore, though I can get it to hold open a bit if I push it that way but it wants to close, if I set it to a small gap at the bottom, there is no tension on the spring and the valve can flap open very easily. So far is I can tell the only way to tension the spring more is to take it off and put another wrap around. I'm going to try and clean it up some, probably just crusty, though feels smooth enough. I haven't adjusted the cam from the automatic side of the choke, I figured moving that would just adjust how much the piston from the wax moves the choke closed, I haven't got it hot yet so figured I'd better not touch it. I also haven't bothered to check if any coolant is making it through the carb, I figure that it just disengages the choke with the expanding wax, so it's not really my problem right now if it won't run with choke on. So I filled a fuel line with gas and stuck it on the carb where the pump goes to it and blew hard on the end trying to force some through, nothing. Then an Internet search told me the human mouth can only produce up to 2psi, I'll try with a pump next. Also, I've got no spark again, it's been pissing it down out there and my cover won't seal on the rusty bed, dizzy is wet I imagine, maybe that relay thing again. No point in going further until its dry out there. Sparks back, but this is the end of my monologue. Hopefully somebody here has some ideas for me. Really curious about cold idle screw setting, and if anyone has I link for replacement carb that works for them..thanks in advance! I'll keep updating when I get back at it. 95 s110p ef-ns Rusty 95000km Would love to drive it
Apologies for the massive post, figure it's best to explain my whole thought process in case I'm getting something wrong or making assumptions I shouldn't be.
Plugs will be here in a few days, told myself I'd wait to pull the carb until new plugs are in but I think I'll go ahead and label the hoses and pull it to check the float needle and jets. It's gotta be just gummed up, really should have been the first thing I did but it keeps teasing me with starting for a second or two every so often, probably all the more reason to pull it and clean it.
1 year storage can cause a lot of trouble, besides oxidation of wires, relay contacts, fuses etc, the biggest problem is fuel. I know from own experience on my old BMW stored in a dry warehouse. Often fuel was the problem, stuck fuel pumps, filters, even fuel injectors were gummed up and did not work anymore, had to replace all these items. When fuel sits for an extended period of time, it can undergo changes that can affect its performance and potentially cause damage to an engine. Here are some common issues that can arise with old fuel: Evaporation: Over time, volatile components in the fuel can evaporate, which can make the fuel less effective at starting an engine. Oxidation: Fuel can react with oxygen in the air, leading to the formation of varnishes and gums. These can clog fuel lines, carburetors, and injectors, affecting the engine's performance. Water Contamination: Old fuel can absorb water from the surrounding environment, leading to phase separation where water settles at the bottom of the fuel tank. This can cause corrosion and damage to the fuel system. Degradation: The chemical composition of fuel can change over time, leading to a decrease in performance. This can result in poor engine operation, reduced power output, and increased emissions. Using old or degraded fuel in an engine can potentially cause damage by clogging fuel filters, injectors, and carburetors, leading to poor engine performance, rough idling, and difficulty starting. same is with carbs of my garden tools, they are very sensitive with old fuel, the internal fuel pump and nozzle, floats gummed, clogged. Last year I got an expensive Honda power generator for free, which was not used for 2 years and did not start. I got it fixed within some hours, the carb was completely gummed up from the old fuel. Disassembled the carb complete, cleaned it, assembled, new fuel and it started again. Now I use for my garden tools always fuel stabilizers.
Was in town today so got some plugs. Really wants to start now. It runs even longer on 2 cylinders if I take plug #1 out. Also will start if I've left it for a while but only for a second or two. Maybe something is making it past the float now but not enough to keep up. Or the pump isn't putting out good pressure. Should try a new one this evening. It's time to clean the carb I think, will fiddle with the choke and cold idle a bit more but it seems more and more like a gummed up carb, it certainly sat long enough.
Thank's you're definitely right about the fuel being bad, keeps wanting to start though which keeps me trying. Next step is cleaning the carb and flushing the lines
Carb is clean enough and fuel is going through, maybe it's flooding. I guess I'll try and see if I can find a manual choke carb that works on it
Put the old plugs in and adjusted the choke to fully closed and the idle adjust turned in to the point where it's lifting the throttle and holding the valve open. Started right up, after it burned through all the seafoam it ran great and I drove it around a bit. Died when the choke tried to disengage. Hasn't started since but I suspect a mixture of bad fuel and my low idle adjustment is out. It will run on the fuel in the tank but when it started and ran I had just filled the bowl with fresh 97. Started and shut it down several times and drove around until it warmed up and died so I should have definitely burnt more than a bowl full. Once it cooled, I drove around the driveway it again later that evening. Then yesterday wouldn't start again.
Also, the reason the choke was wide open when I got it wasn't due to the adjustment but that the piston from the wax cylinder was still down. I pulled it up by hand to the point where the line is at the roller, though it's wasn't quite 20 degrees outside, if it's cooler out would I want the line on the choke cam lower or higher than the roller? I suppose I need to pull the carb again to clean out the wax piston so that it moves freely. Should It move freely? There's no screw to adjust it but I could pull it up by hand with some force
The screw I was adjusting on the choke was the choke spring tension, it was very loose. I tightened it to the point where it will stay closed and have tension on the spring but will still open slightly when I suck on the vacuum line. I can see the vacuum toggle pulling up on the choke when I turn it over so vacuum seems good. Coolant is flowing. Will try again this afternoon with a 12v fuel pump and fresh 97. Where should I put it? Was thinking right before the filter. It's pretty small, maybe 1-3psi, shouldn't push past the needle but will still make sure my bowl is full. I'd like to bypass the stock pump altogether and maybe delete the line running back to the tank but not sure if tank back pressure and vacuum problems might result. I'll try this one with the stock pump first, at least I can be certain fuel will be going to the carb.
Brief update, seems to be running pretty good at the moment. Changing the transmission and t case oil today. Carb kit for grimports is in the mail. Throttle pull down is still a bit slow. Also think my radiator thermostat may be crusty or bad, dash indicates low temperature but I can tell the coolant is hot, rad eventually boils with cap off. Will still cycle the fan but not enough. Coolant was pretty clean but I should probably give it a proper flush.
So I've got no timing advance. Feels like the diaphragm is shot. I can suck air through either the advance or retard hose, hoses themselves are holding vacuum, just not the advance unit at the dizzy. I can't seem to find the part. Can I get just the diaphragm? I haven't had it apart any further than the cap. Not sure what my next step is here. The advance will spring back when I move to by hand, got to be the diaphragm right?
Okay, so I didn't have the other hose plugged, I can move the advance some but it won't hold vaccum, will only stay open it I keep sucking, doesn't seem to be the hose losing vacuum. Feels like a massive vacuum leak at the advance diaphragm. If anyone is reading this please tell me I'm missing something!
So I figured with the advance hoses off and plugged, it would be a great time to play with the timing at the distributor. Won't budge, I can see movement at the seem by the scratch I made to mark the current position but it won't budge one way or another, letting oil seep into it now, will get the engine hot to see if it'll move then. I'm now getting some movement using a hammer and wooden dowel
I had done a rebuild on our 97 S110P ef-gs and could kinda get it to run and idle, but not reliable. Bought an aftermarket carb: better, would idle and run, but idle was everywhere. Said hell with it and swapped out carb with a motorcycle carb... Fired right up and has been kicking ass since!
I think I'm probably going to end up putting a bike carb in if it gives me any trouble after I do the rebuild and replace the leaky vacuum advance. Though I blew my head gasket the other day so I guess I've got to deal with that first! Had an airlock around the thermostat so didn't register any temperature though the rad pipes were hot, hope I didn't cook it too bad. Hope to find a video with some tips to make it getting it all back together slightly less daunting. At least I assume it's my head gasket, It's dumping smoke out the front of the engine and I can hear it coming through the oil filler cap. Can't think of what else it could be. Haven't had the heart to check my compression since it happened, I was 170 all around just beforehand!
