Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by Colin, Feb 28, 2008.
cool! could I come over and see it, sometime?
Semperit Winter-Grip 175/65-14
I s'pose you could... there's not much to see, though. :sly:
Colin, just rebuilding an SC. lost a rod and then customer kept running it to limp it home. rod broke at wrist pin end and then bashed around in the bore until it broke at the crank end and fell into the pan. started and ran on 3 cylinders to get him home. while runnung home the piston rotated in the bore and bent the valves and cracked the guides, Oh boy what a mess, massive damage but did not punch through the side of the block. Block was toast from cly bore damage. Just assembling again with replacement block, SC head out of the states and going good so far. just on here checking valve lash specs. Anyone got head bolt torque? I am at 25 ft/lb right now but I think they could be a touch more to get the correct bolt load.
My timing belt broke a few months ago and the truck has been sitting in the driveway. The court ruled that it wasn't a Class II ATV, so I can't drive it anywhere anyway. I'll fix it one of these days, I guess.
yikes. do you want to sell it. i live in sauks rapids mn. call 320 2670005
Yeah... I think I might be about ready to part with it. Breaks my heart, but I really don't have the time or energy to overhaul it to the extent where it could be registered as a kit car and driven on the streets.
I think I may be having a change of heart (already. )
I rolled the truck down the hill and into the shop, pulled the belt cover off and discovered that the timing belt had indeed been destroyed, as I suspected. Replaced the belt, water pump, pullies, and tensioner with the stuff from my old engine (it looks like it's in better condition...)
Runs pretty well now, but the clutch is really starting to slip. I should've replaced that when I swapped the engine. D'oh!
Larry - call Nate (screen name: nateisanas) at (320) 309-2260 - he's been trying to sell his mid/late-80s Sambar with a custom extended cab. It's a 550cc twin, but despite that it seems to make at least as much power as my 660. We raced on 2nd street a few months ago and he started walking on me after 40 MPH or so.
Woot woot! Colin lives!
Colin, was the picutres of the rusty gears on your replaced engine or your new/used installed engine. That does not look good. are your little rubber fillers installed between the upper and lower timming belt covers, looks like it has had a lot of water road grime entry, Or have you been swimming in the truck?
found torque for head bolts 3 kg m crosses over to 22-23 ft/lbs. I went 25 so should be good.
what was the failure on your old engine and is a ENO7 block? is crank, block, connecting rods still good?
I didn't take apart the old block yet - I just harvested the pulleys and stuff from it.
The rusty pulleys and water pump are on the replacement engine. I don't recall if the little rubber seals were in place on that block, though I did notice they were installed on the old block. I didn't reinstall them... maybe I should.
Hey all - has anyone ever verify that the valve lash specs were correct? Intake .15mm +/- .02mm (.0059 in +/- .0007 in) Exhaust .20mm +/- .02mm (.0078 in +/- .0007 in)
I put sythetic oil in mine and need to replace the valve stem guides (who would have thought something like that would cause such a problem). Smokes like a misquito fogger when cold now. Would hate to suck a valve like Collin. Plan to measure the lash before I pull the head, but would love to know the official spec. I cannot imagine that that an incorrect valve lash setting was the cause of the sucked valve in the thread???
F6A 4-valve engine, .003 intake .006 exhaust
This suggests these are NON interference engines. Can anyone confirm that?
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